The chef behind Kam Rai Thai has opened a new restaurant in Hudson Yards
Chef Dhanapol "Oak" Marprasert has had quite the culinary history. Born in Washington D.C., chef Marprasert moved to the Samsen neighborhood of Bangkok as a child. Growing up around the historical transit hub with its swirl of street eateries, Marprasert developed an interest in Thai cuisine. But it was his mother who instilled a passion to push it further.
"My passion for cooking started by watching my mother,' said Marprasert. 'Growing up, I saw how she used food to bring our family together and care for everyone.'
He formerly attended culinary school in Bangkok, eventually making his way to the States in 2014. Landing in Tennessee, he found a job at a Thai restaurant as a pot washer, working his way up to the kitchen where he began cooking traditional Thai cuisine. Along the way, he also gained a new love: barbecue. Drawn in by the 'smoky aroma' and 'the unique cooking process' found in the Tennessee scene, Marprasert entered his first barbecue competition.
Ready to bring his cuisine to a global stage, he moved to New York and opened the affordable Thai eatery, Makin, in 2020, following up the contemporary Thai restaurant, Kam Rai Thai, in 2023. His love of BBQ followed, participating in Brisket King NYC. He even clinched the number three spot at the National BBQ Festival this year for his slow-roasted BBQ pork belly. His latest restaurant seemingly serves as a culmination of his journey thus far, blending his Thai techniques with his love of slow-cooking and fire.
Yesterday, Samsaen (480 Ninth Ave, New York, NY) made its debut, located on the cusp of Hudson Yards and midtown. Chef Marprasert hopes to use his first Manhattan location to showcase the diversity of the region he loves so much.
'Opening a restaurant in Manhattan felt like the natural next step to further elevate and share my culinary vision,' he said. 'With Samsaen, I'm excited to showcase a new, more elevated side of my cooking, pushing the boundaries of traditional Thai flavors and techniques.'
Inspired by the transit hub in which he grew up, the restaurant reads like a train car, intended to take you on a journey. The bar is front in center upon entry, decorated with a backsplash of red tiles and red fringe lampshades. While the restaurant is currently waiting on its liquor license, there is a small selection of wines and beers on hand, or you are welcome to BYOB. Just beyond the bar leads to the dining room. Longer than it is wide, the hallway leans further into the theme, fashioned with leather-bound suitcases that hover above on metal racks, red cushions that line the walls and square golden mirrors that mimic the windows of a train car. The rear of the restaurant culminates in a cozy corner outfitted with handsome wooden walls and marble tables, easily made private with the tug of the red velvet curtains.
Chef Marprasert's presentation here seems to be a marriage of his past, balancing Thai street eats in one hand while pushing the cuisine forward in another. The cheekily named 'Coach Car' menu calls to the night markets of Thailand. Start with the Ua Tod or deep-fried Thai pork rolls that hide herby minced pork that's heavy on lemongrass, chili and Thai herbs or the Shiitake Spring Rolls stuffed with glass noodles and cabbage. Familiar favorites do get an elevated treatment as the Pad Thai is served with jumbo river prawns, and the crispy pork belly is stir-fried with morning glory.
The second half of the menu, titled 'First Class Lounge,' dives into royal Thai-style cuisine. Reinterpreting the popular jellyfish salad found in many Asian cuisines comes the Jellyfish & Squid Ink Soup. Starting with a vivid, cilantro-infused broth, a server brings over a chalice and pours over an inky black, lime-based squid ink. The underlying heat of chilis gives it zip, while the cold strips of marinated jellyfish give a bit of chew. Starters continue on with a fire-roasted bone marrow, glazed in a slightly sweet Thai gor lae with more sauce on the side for dipping.
Entrées nod to his love of BBQ cookery, as the slow-braised brisket found in the Massaman Curry comes to cook in a peanutty coconut sauce. The menu continues on with chicken confit braised in a rich and creamy coconut curry with egg noodles, jumbo river prawns in a deep red pad cha sauce (chili, garlic and young peppercorn) and a whole crispy fried fish made fragrant with a tangle of Thai herbs. It all comes to a close with a round of sweetened coconut ice cream with a crispy flower cookie blossoming on top.
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The Herald Scotland
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Time Out
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