Insiders' guide to Sri Lanka's Southern Province
Yala National Park , home to the elusive leopard, has long been a visitor favourite for its powder-soft beaches. But beyond being a surf and party destination, Southern Province is a diverse blend of rainforests, tea gardens, villages with their traditional crafts and a centuries-old fort. It has also evolved into the island nation's gastronomy hub, with contemporary bars and chic cafes spotlighting native ingredients.
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To help discover the region, we spoke to three insiders: Don Ranasinghe, co-owner of Smoke & Bitters, a bar and smokehouse in Hiriketiya ranked No 14 on Asia's 50 Best Bars 2025 list; Naveen Devinda, who runs Donga, a travel company focusing on sustainable tours; and Edwina Viel, who visits Sri Lanka almost every month to manage her beachfront accommodation, Villa Weli Kasba.
Locals in southern Sri Lanka recommend hailing a tuk-tuk and heading inland. Photo: Shutterstock
Rainforests, tea gardens and a rock temple
'I always tell people to grab a scooter,' says Ranasinghe. 'Go inland and you're going to come across the most beautiful village scenery with paddy fields and natural water springs.'
Devinda recommends Lankagama, a village that lies on the fringes of Sri Lanka's last primary rainforest, Sinharaja. While there are several entrances to Sinharaja, he explains, the trails in Lankagama meander through seven waterfalls that most travellers haven't heard of. 'It is probably the only place in the south where you can see many waterfalls within such a small area.
'There's plenty of opportunity to interact with locals in Lankagama, talk to the farmers and see their daily life. It goes beyond a typical rainforest trail,' says Devinda, who also recommends taking a tour to watch tappers climb tall fishtail palm trees to collect the sap. Viel says her guests enjoy visits to the Handunugoda Tea Estate, known for its virgin white tea: 'They are passionate about their tea, and people don't expect to see
tea plantations when they are in the south.'
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Both Viel and Devinda recommend hailing a tuk-tuk and heading inland from Tangalle to caves such as those at the Mulkirigala temple complex, built in the third century over a 205-metre high natural rock formation, with its reclining Buddhas and ceiling paintings that depict Buddha's life. The views aren't bad, either.
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3 days ago
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Insiders' guide to Sri Lanka's Southern Province
Sri Lanka's south coast, stretching from design-led Bentota to Yala National Park , home to the elusive leopard, has long been a visitor favourite for its powder-soft beaches. But beyond being a surf and party destination, Southern Province is a diverse blend of rainforests, tea gardens, villages with their traditional crafts and a centuries-old fort. It has also evolved into the island nation's gastronomy hub, with contemporary bars and chic cafes spotlighting native ingredients. Advertisement To help discover the region, we spoke to three insiders: Don Ranasinghe, co-owner of Smoke & Bitters, a bar and smokehouse in Hiriketiya ranked No 14 on Asia's 50 Best Bars 2025 list; Naveen Devinda, who runs Donga, a travel company focusing on sustainable tours; and Edwina Viel, who visits Sri Lanka almost every month to manage her beachfront accommodation, Villa Weli Kasba. Locals in southern Sri Lanka recommend hailing a tuk-tuk and heading inland. Photo: Shutterstock Rainforests, tea gardens and a rock temple 'I always tell people to grab a scooter,' says Ranasinghe. 'Go inland and you're going to come across the most beautiful village scenery with paddy fields and natural water springs.' Devinda recommends Lankagama, a village that lies on the fringes of Sri Lanka's last primary rainforest, Sinharaja. While there are several entrances to Sinharaja, he explains, the trails in Lankagama meander through seven waterfalls that most travellers haven't heard of. 'It is probably the only place in the south where you can see many waterfalls within such a small area. 'There's plenty of opportunity to interact with locals in Lankagama, talk to the farmers and see their daily life. It goes beyond a typical rainforest trail,' says Devinda, who also recommends taking a tour to watch tappers climb tall fishtail palm trees to collect the sap. Viel says her guests enjoy visits to the Handunugoda Tea Estate, known for its virgin white tea: 'They are passionate about their tea, and people don't expect to see tea plantations when they are in the south.' Advertisement Both Viel and Devinda recommend hailing a tuk-tuk and heading inland from Tangalle to caves such as those at the Mulkirigala temple complex, built in the third century over a 205-metre high natural rock formation, with its reclining Buddhas and ceiling paintings that depict Buddha's life. The views aren't bad, either.
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