Romeo Lane review: Pani puri with ponzu and other fusion bites with a twist

The National

18 hours ago

If ever there were a classic dish that has been experimented to the hilt with, it would be the Indian pani puri. Meant to be a simple hollowed-out semolina shell served with sweet and spicy tamarind chutneys on the side, the dish has inspired experimentalist amateur and award-winning chefs alike. There are even tippler-friendly versions.
Standout iterations I've tried include one with edible flowers, preserved lemons and cumin-scented aerated water at the Michelin-starred Tresind Studio in Dubai; one with Hokkaido corn white mousse and hibiscus powder at Ms Maria and Mr Singh in Bangkok; and, most recently, pani puri filled with tartare of bluefin tuna (the most expensive of the tunas) and served with ponzu water alongside the more typical tamarind water.
My reality? The citrusy soy-based ponzu tasted far better than the authentic tamarind-infused chutney.
It's just one of many fusion dishes that Romeo Lane, a Goa and Delhi import that opened in Pullman Hotel Dubai this year, does well.
Here's how my meal at the restaurant – that offers the altogether rare combination of Indian and Japanese cuisines – fared.
The vibe
A glass lift from outside the main entrance of Pullman Hotel Dubai opens out on to an arched entranceway adorned with faux foliage studded with blossom-shaped lights. The ornate mood lighting and rustic-chic woody vibe extend to the main dining room, which offers bar stools and high tables alongside regular indoor and outdoor seating.
The vibe, on the Friday evening my dining partner and I visit, feels celebratory thanks to the mood lighting and a DJ belting out foot-tapping pop tracks, from Adele's Rolling in the Deep to Makeba by Jain.
The foliage-studded ceiling is dominated by amorphous accent lights, giving off a purple gleam and flashing to the beat of the music, proving this is not only for diners. In fact, Romeo Lane transforms into a proper nightclub at weekends, complete with high-octane percussionists and guest DJs spinning desi-techno tracks. The kitchen remains open until a respectable 1.30am, and the dance floor even beyond that.
The menu
Given how excellent the pani puri (Dh95) proves to be, my partner and I bypass the straightforward appetisers that purists might prefer, in favour of two fusion-tastic options, plus a satisfying side of truffle-masala fries (Dh50).
One is a resounding success. Textures of mushroom takes the form of a trio of nutty yet velvety galouti kebabs (Dh60) made from morels, served in a saffron roti and garnished with seiyoshoro snow. The oozing richness of the pate-like mushroom kebab is balanced by the thickness of the roti and stickiness of the truffle snow, and it's altogether possible to eat an entire dish by oneself.
The same cannot be said of the chicken biryani arancini (Dh75). A mix of breadcrumbs and poppadom made this a deep-fried indulgence, but the ultra-thick coating means the tang of the biryani rice is lost. Even the odd piece of delicately spiced chicken found within cannot quite make up for the overwhelming flavour of Indian pappad.
Fortunately, the mains make the best of the combination cuisine. First up is an udon bowl (Dh95) served with fluffy tofu, crunchy bokchoy and salan, a coconutty curry spiced with chilli peppers, sesame and mustard seeds.
Traditionally enjoyed with authentic Hyderbadi biryani, the salan lends itself surprisingly well to the Japanese noodle dish. Indian ramen broth, anyone?
Our final dish of the night, seafood moilee (Dh175), takes curry to its creamiest proportions. Kerala-style moilee sauce made from coconut milk is known for its mild, almost saccharine flavour profile, despite the use of ginger, pepper and tempered green chillies.
Combined with tiger prawns, onion confit and bokchoy, and sopped up with a chilli-cheese naan (Dh35), it makes for a satisfying – and sweet – end to the meal.
Next, I can't wait to try the hamachi and curry leaf ceviche (Dh85), and the chef-recommended Amritsari fish karaage (Dh110).
To order or not to order
I'd return any day for the tuna-ponzu pani puri, which also comes topped with togarashi-infused spicy mayo. I'd refrain from the chicken biryani rice balls, though, an odd choice on this menu given arancini is neither Indian nor Japanese.
Save or splurge
A three-course meal at Romeo Lane can cost between Dh170 and Dh680.
On the high end of the price spectrum across starter, main and dessert are: Amritsari sea bream karaage (Dh110); A5 Wagyu striploin with brown garlic and kizami wasabi (Dh495); and Hokkaido cheesecake or Romeo kulfi falooda with whipped rabdi foam (both Dh75).
The three most reasonable dishes for a three-course meal are: corn miso masala (Dh45); slow-cooked black daal makhani with brown garlic butter (Dh75); and two types of mochi (Dh50).
The restaurant also serves sashimi, nigiri and maki rolls, ranging from Dh45 to Dh125.
A chat with the chef
Executive chef Aakash Tyagi is from Delhi, and has worked at storied kitchens including Taj Land's End in Mumbai, Masala Library in Delhi and Pincode by Kunal Kapur in the UAE. Part of the opening team at Romeo Lane Dubai, Tyagi says he is now focused on 'curating experiences that bridge bold Indian flavours with Japanese finesse'.
As such, he describes his menu as inventive and playful yet refined. 'My cooking philosophy is rooted in curiosity and respect – for ingredients, traditions and the people I'm cooking for. Blending regional Indian flavours with global techniques keeps the food playful while maintaining depth and meaning. For me, every dish should either evoke a memory or create a new one. That's always the goal.'
The chef cites miso as one of his favourite ingredients to cook with. 'It brings a rich umami depth that instantly elevates a dish. At Romeo Lane, we use miso blended into chutneys, brushed on to grilled meats, and stirred into sauces to create layers of flavour without overpowering the dish. It's a beautiful convergence of Japanese techniques and Indian boldness, subtle yet powerful.'
Other than the dishes we sampled, Tyagi's top recommendations include mushroom and cream cheese gyoza with spicy momo chutney for vegetarians; bhatti-spiced lamb chops grilled over robata flames for meat lovers; yuzu-grilled prawns marinated with garlic and yuzu juice for seafood lovers; and Hokkaido cheesecake for dessert.
Contact information
Romeo Lane, located in Pullman Hotel Dubai in Business Bay, is open from noon to 2am on weekdays and noon to 3am at the weekend. Reservations can be made by calling 050 307 6961.