Paris: Juun.J revisits tailoring, Officine Générale lightens the wardrobe
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This season, Pierre Mahéo welcomes guests to the rue Jules Chaplain, home to his label's headquarters, right next to the Mk2 Parnasse cinema, creating a friendly, summery atmosphere from the outset. The collection is aptly named "Pariviera", blending Officine Générale's typical Parisian style with a more relaxed, seaside touch. "It's a little geographical fantasy that I've tried to translate into clothing with a collection designed to cope with the heat," explained the entrepreneur-designer.
A significant focus was placed on materials, ensuring they were as airy as possible to provide the garments with suppleness. Several outfits were crafted from poplin - a parachute-like fabric. Others used featherweight striped fabrics made from a blend of cotton, linen, and Tencel. Shirts and suits were offered in seersucker weighing just 110 grams per linear meter, offering an air-draped body sensation. Suede jackets and small leather jackets were naturally soft, while silk makes an elegant appearance for evening wear.
The pajama-style shirt is worn almost like a jacket over a white T-shirt and drawstring pants. Mao-collar shirts were also gaining popularity. Jackets devoid of structure and lining are tied at the waist like a sweater, in tone-on-tone combinations with shirts and pants. The silhouettes were fluid, with garments cascading effortlessly without clinging to the body, merely grazing it.
Everything exuded lightness and nonchalance in this wardrobe, characterized by a neutral palette, punctuated by nautical details, from sailor knits to windbreaker-collared shirts. Models casually walk down the street in flip-flops or comfortable leather slippers, with a scarf tied as a Keith Richards-style headband, and occasionally daring to wear a shell necklace.
In a casual gesture, they tucked shirts into pants without buttoning them. A scoubidou cord woven from cotton strips serves as a belt. They rolled up their sleeves for a shorter look, and the hem of the pants is hastily rolled up. And so they set off for a stroll along the beach.
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At Juun.J, garments were split and layered. All pants, for instance, were systematically supplemented with another model in a different fabric, draped along the right leg like a large side panel. Another approach was to unbutton the pants at the top on the side, allowing the waistband to fold down in the front, revealing another pair beneath. Leather pants or shorts were exposed under wool trousers; jeans appear beneath a business suit; rugged pants emerge beneath canvas trousers.
As always, the Korean designer works with large volumes, but this season he's departing from his usual streetwear inspiration for a more sophisticated, almost couture-like approach. Suits were precisely tailored to create a silhouette inspired by the elegance of the 1940s, while subtly nodding to the power dressing of the nineties.
Jackets boast pronounced shoulders before tapering at the waist, while pleated pants drape generously. The suit was paired with flip-flops. Conversely, summer shorts were teamed with loafers and knee-high socks.
Occasionally, the Juun.J man ventured into bolder territories, donning a tuxedo jacket over a denim tank top, or adopting a sailor look with a striped knit featuring a boat neck, white cotton pants with black stripes, and a small wool hat. His wardrobe didn't lack a leather jacket, a nylon bomber, a military jacket, or canvas overalls.
"I wanted to showcase the significant fashion and clothing errors made by both men and women. But also how these errors can transform into a very cool and unique form of fashion," explained designer Jung Wook Jun.
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