Malone Souliers designers talk Middle East ties and signature looks

Arab News

2 days ago

DUBAI: As luxury footwear brand Malone Souliers continues to evolve under new creative leadership, its designers open up about their connection to the Arab world, their design process and why wearability always comes first.
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Since its creation in 2014 by Mary Alice Malone, footwear label Malone Souliers has built a cult following. From Beyonce sporting a bespoke pair of fringed boots during a performance to Jennifer Lawrence stepping out in their iconic 'Maureen' pumps, the brand's celebrity fanbase is long-standing and ever-growing.
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Known for its distinctive silhouettes, rich colour palettes and sculptural lines, the brand has carved out a significant niche in the luxury footwear space. Under the creative direction of Coco Fong and Valerio Bava, the London-based label is evolving — staying true to its design roots while embracing new ideas and deepening its presence in the Middle East.
While both designers officially assumed their roles in 2023, their journey with the brand began much earlier.
'We've been part of the brand for a long time — I joined two years after it was founded. Now that we're leading the creative, it feels like a natural continuation of something we've always helped shape,' Bava said.
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Their aesthetic blends feminine silhouettes with subtle nods to nostalgia, drawing inspiration from vintage references, pop culture and personal memories. While rooted in storytelling, their designs remain grounded in practicality — shoes made to be worn, not just admired.
'I think at the end of the day, we're both quite practical in how we think. That mindset naturally comes through in the shoes — we never want them to feel overly fussy or difficult to wear. I want to be able to slip them on easily, and I want my mum to feel the same. We design shoes that are meant to be lived in,' Fong said.
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Craftsmanship is critical to the Malone Souliers approach. The brand's shoes are made primarily in Italy, with a close relationship between the designers and the artisans who bring each prototype to life. From sketch to sample, wearability is considered at every stage.
'Even the most expressive designs go through rounds of testing to ensure they're comfortable and durable. We take that process seriously,' Bava said.
In the brand's journey, the Middle East has emerged as one of its most engaged markets. 'The region has become one of our biggest champions,' Fong said. 'We receive consistent feedback — from buyers, from clients — and that dialogue has helped shape the way we design. There's a real openness and honesty from customers here, and that has made the relationship incredibly valuable.'
In 2022, the brand partnered with Arab designer Dima Ayad on an exclusive capsule facilitated by footwear department store Level Shoes. The collaboration highlighted Malone Souliers' interest in working with regional creatives and marked the beginning of a more localised strategy.
'I think what really connected us was her love of color and materials, which aligns closely with what we value in our own designs,' Fong said. 'The silhouettes were kept simple, but there was a strong focus on texture and detail — plisse, pleats, shimmer, lurex and mesh—all elements we naturally gravitate towards in our collections.'
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Looking ahead, the brand is continuing to expand its product offering, including a growing accessories line. When asked to choose one style that encapsulates their joint creative direction, Fong and Bava point to the Roxanne — a mule with a new block heel, combining comfort and simplicity but equally cool.
'It's the kind of shoe we've always aimed to create. It feels modern, feminine and very much in line with what Malone Souliers stands for today,' Bava said.