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Fashion Network
01-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Deeny's dozen: 12 best menswear collections this season
These are my rankings of the 12 best menswear collections in the runway season that ended on Sunday evening in Paris, listed in chronological order. A season characteried by rampant color, stylish historicism, hybrid fabrics and a battle over the future of tailoring— to deconstruct or not? Enter the renaissance of male refinement. Zegna See catwalk Though this collection was unveiled at the Dubai Opera, it was still easily one of Europe's best arrays of new ideas. Recycled fabrics or hybrid threads; whisper-light deconstruction; and the first of many pajama suits in one-inch-wide vertical stripes in light silk voile. In a word, Alessandro Sartori at his best. Welcome to the lightest of layering. See catwalk Something of a breakout moment for Post Archive Faction (PAF) co-founder Dongjoon Lim, whose meeting of tough chic and street style was revelatory. Stiff dandy pajama suits in putty-hued toweling material; chiffon mesh crepe blazers that felt like light scouring pads; or desert-dry linen shirts presented to huge applause inside Stazione Leopolda. Very much the standout fashion show of Pitti. Dolce & Gabbana See catwalk Expect a long, hot summer in 2026—ideally when wearing the latest from Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Stripes, stripes and more stripes, leading to the finale where two scores of hirsute male models marched out in pajama pants, blazers, shorts and suits—all maxi-decorated with crystal, jet and strass. Casualwear chic conquers all. Brioni See catwalk A moment of grace—and extreme levity—at Brioni, presented in a palazzo that once belonged to the Casati family, whose Maria Luisa Casati—artist muse and style icon—inspired one of John Galliano 's greatest shows. From perfectly cut pale shawl-collar silk-linen tuxedos, where adding enzymes reduced the shine, to a beige tuxedo embroidered with real gold thread in tiny designs of Brioni's famed plant in the Abruzzi region, this was the finest example of haute sartorial style. And a thousand miles from AI. Giorgio Armani See catwalk Giorgio missed his signature show due to ill health, and it did lack an edit. But it was still the best selection of the super-deconstructed summer suits made in silk and pajama fabrics. Giorgio's polished Pantelleria panache at its best. Even absent, Armani remains menswear's greatest tailor. Louis Vuitton See catwalk Snakes-and-ladders chic from Pharrell Williams and his best collection so far for Louis Vuitton, staged in a massive fashion and music happening outside the Pompidou Centre. The pay dirt coming in Williams' excellent fresh tailoring: from snappy pop star double-breasted jackets worn with flared trousers, to micro blazers and wide pleated pants—very David Live album cover in Paris. Add 'tailor' to Pharrell's list of professions, after producer, rockstar, dandy and dad. Grace Wales Bonner See catwalk In a season defined by the renaissance of kicky tailoring, Grace Wales Bonner was completely in the zone with her blend of Afro-Caribbean panache meets active sports. Lean suits with ever-so-flared pants and jackets with contrast collars; Crombies accessorized with diamond baobab-flower brooches and berets courtesy of Stephen Jones, and the best eveningwear in menswear. All anchored by some amazing new Y-3 Field shoes. Issey Miyake See catwalk After a far too restrained Homme Plissé collection in Pitti, the house's IM Men 'Dancing Texture' collection, in the soon-to-be-relocated Fondation Cartier, was a real beauty. Performance dance art met adventurous design, fabrics and colour. As design trio Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara and Nobutaka Kobayashi showed scale-like motifs echoing across suits, tunics, kimono jackets and draped trench coats—made in hues of acid greens, violet blues and dazzling turquoises. The colour palette of the season and a lesson to cool guys on how to stand out in a crowd. Dries Van Noten See catwalk Very much the noisiest applause of the season was for the menswear debut of Dries Van Noten, where feminine fabrics and hues met fluid menswear tailoring. Revamped and rippling opera coats; double-breasted blazers with noble volumes; pale trenches with crystal-embroidered shoulders; silk tops in Edwardian rugby shirt colors with plissé pajama pants. These were the clothes that the cast most enjoyed being seen in this June. Always a telling sign. Dior See catwalk In the season's biggest debut, Jonathan Anderson at Dior, the Northern Irishman zoned in on the house's DNA—especially womenswear designs by Monsieur Dior himself—to create a powerful, pathbreaking fashion statement. Like Monsieur's famed Bar Jacket whipped up in Donegal tweed. Or Monsieur's Autumn 1948 multi-fold Delft dress made in silk faille that morphed into multi-leaf white denim cargo shorts. Or Christian's Autumn 1952 dimpled moiré coat, La Cigale, that became undulating men's greatcoats. Turning Dior's DNA upside down for the 21st century—and about time too. Craig Green See catwalk The most fertile imagination in menswear, Craig Green helped close out the season with a show that was simply sensational. Riffing through materials, epochs, cultural references and diverse artistic moods, Green developed a Beatles-inspired psychedelic fantasy that lesser talents can only dream of even imagining. While his multi-tagged and tied opening straightjackets were the season's best—and boldest—look. Taakk See catwalk Takuya Morikawa of Taakk staged the final official show of Paris menswear—and talk about a sweet F-finale. Morikawa wants men to be sophisticated next summer, with all manner of innovative dyeing processes and silhouette-enhancing details. Elegant light coats were given volume through multiple sculptural embroideries, made in ribbons drawn from the same fabric as the garment. Dévoré technique coupled with foam printing processes created indistinct fusions of printed motifs, embroidery and gradient effects. Surface chic at its best.
Fashion Network
01-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Deeny's dozen: 12 best menswear collections this season
These are my rankings of the 12 best menswear collections in the runway season that ended on Sunday evening in Paris, listed in chronological order. A season characterized by rampant color, stylish historicism, hybrid fabrics and a battle over the future of tailoring— to deconstruct or not? Enter the renaissance of male refinement. Zegna See catwalk Though this collection was unveiled at the Dubai Opera, it was still easily one of Europe's best arrays of new ideas. Recycled fabrics or hybrid threads; whisper-light deconstruction; and the first of many pajama suits in one-inch-wide vertical stripes in light silk voile. In a word, Alessandro Sartori at his best. Welcome to the lightest of layering. See catwalk Something of a breakout moment for Post Archive Faction (PAF) co-founder Dongjoon Lim, whose meeting of tough chic and street style was revelatory. Stiff dandy pajama suits in putty-hued toweling material; chiffon mesh crepe blazers that felt like light scouring pads; or desert-dry linen shirts presented to huge applause inside Stazione Leopolda. Very much the standout fashion show of Pitti. Dolce & Gabbana See catwalk Expect a long, hot summer in 2026—ideally when wearing the latest from Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Stripes, stripes and more stripes, leading to the finale where two scores of hirsute male models marched out in pajama pants, blazers, shorts and suits—all maxi-decorated with crystal, jet and strass. Casualwear chic conquers all. Brioni See catwalk A moment of grace—and extreme levity—at Brioni, presented in a palazzo that once belonged to the Casati family, whose Maria Luisa Casati—artist muse and style icon—inspired one of John Galliano 's greatest shows. From perfectly cut pale shawl-collar silk-linen tuxedos, where adding enzymes reduced the shine, to a beige tuxedo embroidered with real gold thread in tiny designs of Brioni's famed plant in the Abruzzi region, this was the finest example of haute sartorial style. And a thousand miles from AI. Giorgio Armani See catwalk Giorgio missed his signature show due to ill health, and it did lack an edit. But it was still the best selection of the super-deconstructed summer suits made in silk and pajama fabrics. Giorgio's polished Pantelleria panache at its best. Even absent, Armani remains menswear's greatest tailor. Louis Vuitton See catwalk Snakes-and-ladders chic from Pharrell Williams and his best collection so far for Louis Vuitton, staged in a massive fashion and music happening outside the Pompidou Center. The pay dirt coming in Williams' excellent fresh tailoring: from snappy pop star double-breasted jackets worn with flared trousers, to micro blazers and wide pleated pants—very David Live album cover in Paris. Add 'tailor' to Pharrell's list of professions, after producer, rockstar, dandy and dad. Grace Wales Bonner See catwalk In a season defined by the renaissance of kicky tailoring, Grace Wales Bonner was completely in the zone with her blend of Afro-Caribbean panache meets active sports. Lean suits with ever-so-flared pants and jackets with contrast collars; Crombies accessorized with diamond baobab-flower brooches and berets courtesy of Stephen Jones, and the best eveningwear in menswear. All anchored by some amazing new Y-3 Field shoes. Issey Miyake See catwalk After a far too restrained Homme Plissé collection in Pitti, the house's IM Men 'Dancing Texture' collection, in the soon-to-be-relocated Fondation Cartier, was a real beauty. Performance dance art met adventurous design, fabrics and color. As design trio Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara and Nobutaka Kobayashi showed scale-like motifs echoing across suits, tunics, kimono jackets and draped trench coats—made in hues of acid greens, violet blues and dazzling turquoises. The color palette of the season and a lesson to cool guys on how to stand out in a crowd. Dries Van Noten See catwalk Very much the noisiest applause of the season was for the menswear debut of Dries Van Noten, where feminine fabrics and hues met fluid menswear tailoring. Revamped and rippling opera coats; double-breasted blazers with noble volumes; pale trenches with crystal-embroidered shoulders; silk tops in Edwardian rugby shirt colors with plissé pajama pants. These were the clothes that the cast most enjoyed being seen in this June. Always a telling sign. Dior See catwalk In the season's biggest debut, Jonathan Anderson at Dior, the Northern Irishman zoned in on the house's DNA—especially womenswear designs by Monsieur Dior himself—to create a powerful, pathbreaking fashion statement. Like Monsieur's famed Bar Jacket whipped up in Donegal tweed. Or Monsieur's Autumn 1948 multi-fold Delft dress made in silk faille that morphed into multi-leaf white denim cargo shorts. Or Christian's Autumn 1952 dimpled moiré coat, La Cigale, that became undulating men's greatcoats. Turning Dior's DNA upside down for the 21st century—and about time too. Craig Green See catwalk The most fertile imagination in menswear, Craig Green helped close out the season with a show that was simply sensational. Riffing through materials, epochs, cultural references and diverse artistic moods, Green developed a Beatles-inspired psychedelic fantasy that lesser talents can only dream of even imagining. While his multi-tagged and tied opening straightjackets were the season's best—and boldest—look. Taakk See catwalk Takuya Morikawa of Taakk staged the final official show of Paris menswear—and talk about a sweet F-finale. Morikawa wants men to be sophisticated next summer, with all manner of innovative dyeing processes and silhouette-enhancing details. Elegant light coats were given volume through multiple sculptural embroideries, made in ribbons drawn from the same fabric as the garment. Dévoré technique coupled with foam printing processes created indistinct fusions of printed motifs, embroidery and gradient effects. Surface chic at its best.
Fashion Network
01-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Deeny's dozen: 12 best menswear collections this season
These are my rankings of the 12 best menswear collections in the runway season that ended on Sunday evening in Paris, listed in chronological order. A season characterized by rampant color, stylish historicism, hybrid fabrics and a battle over the future of tailoring— to deconstruct or not? Enter the renaissance of male refinement. Zegna See catwalk Though this collection was unveiled at the Dubai Opera, it was still easily one of Europe's best arrays of new ideas. Recycled fabrics or hybrid threads; whisper-light deconstruction; and the first of many pajama suits in one-inch-wide vertical stripes in light silk voile. In a word, Alessandro Sartori at his best. Welcome to the lightest of layering. Post Archive Faction (PAF) See catwalk Something of a breakout moment for Post Archive Faction (PAF) co-founder Dongjoon Lim, whose meeting of tough chic and street style was revelatory. Stiff dandy pajama suits in putty-hued toweling material; chiffon mesh crepe blazers that felt like light scouring pads; or desert-dry linen shirts presented to huge applause inside Stazione Leopolda. Very much the standout fashion show of Pitti. Dolce & Gabbana See catwalk Expect a long, hot summer in 2026—ideally when wearing the latest from Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Stripes, stripes and more stripes, leading to the finale where two scores of hirsute male models marched out in pajama pants, blazers, shorts and suits—all maxi-decorated with crystal, jet and strass. Casualwear chic conquers all. Brioni See catwalk A moment of grace—and extreme levity—at Brioni, presented in a palazzo that once belonged to the Casati family, whose Maria Luisa Casati—artist muse and style icon—inspired one of John Galliano 's greatest shows. From perfectly cut pale shawl-collar silk-linen tuxedos, where adding enzymes reduced the shine, to a beige tuxedo embroidered with real gold thread in tiny designs of Brioni's famed plant in the Abruzzi region, this was the finest example of haute sartorial style. And a thousand miles from AI. Giorgio Armani See catwalk Giorgio missed his signature show due to ill health, and it did lack an edit. But it was still the best selection of the super-deconstructed summer suits made in silk and pajama fabrics. Giorgio's polished Pantelleria panache at its best. Even absent, Armani remains menswear's greatest tailor. Louis Vuitton See catwalk Snakes-and-ladders chic from Pharrell Williams and his best collection so far for Louis Vuitton, staged in a massive fashion and music happening outside the Pompidou Center. The pay dirt coming in Williams' excellent fresh tailoring: from snappy pop star double-breasted jackets worn with flared trousers, to micro blazers and wide pleated pants—very David Live album cover in Paris. Add 'tailor' to Pharrell's list of professions, after producer, rockstar, dandy and dad. Grace Wales Bonner See catwalk In a season defined by the renaissance of kicky tailoring, Grace Wales Bonner was completely in the zone with her blend of Afro-Caribbean panache meets active sports. Lean suits with ever-so-flared pants and jackets with contrast collars; Crombies accessorized with diamond baobab-flower brooches and berets courtesy of Stephen Jones, and the best eveningwear in menswear. All anchored by some amazing new Y-3 Field shoes. Issey Miyake See catwalk After a far too restrained Homme Plissé collection in Pitti, the house's IM Men 'Dancing Texture' collection, in the soon-to-be-relocated Fondation Cartier, was a real beauty. Performance dance art met adventurous design, fabrics and color. As design trio Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara and Nobutaka Kobayashi showed scale-like motifs echoing across suits, tunics, kimono jackets and draped trench coats—made in hues of acid greens, violet blues and dazzling turquoises. The color palette of the season and a lesson to cool guys on how to stand out in a crowd. Dries Van Noten See catwalk Very much the noisiest applause of the season was for the menswear debut of Dries Van Noten, where feminine fabrics and hues met fluid menswear tailoring. Revamped and rippling opera coats; double-breasted blazers with noble volumes; pale trenches with crystal-embroidered shoulders; silk tops in Edwardian rugby shirt colors with plissé pajama pants. These were the clothes that the cast most enjoyed being seen in this June. Always a telling sign. Dior See catwalk In the season's biggest debut, Jonathan Anderson at Dior, the Northern Irishman zoned in on the house's DNA—especially womenswear designs by Monsieur Dior himself—to create a powerful, pathbreaking fashion statement. Like Monsieur's famed Bar Jacket whipped up in Donegal tweed. Or Monsieur's Autumn 1948 multi-fold Delft dress made in silk faille that morphed into multi-leaf white denim cargo shorts. Or Christian's Autumn 1952 dimpled moiré coat, La Cigale, that became undulating men's greatcoats. Turning Dior's DNA upside down for the 21st century—and about time too. Craig Green See catwalk The most fertile imagination in menswear, Craig Green helped close out the season with a show that was simply sensational. Riffing through materials, epochs, cultural references and diverse artistic moods, Green developed a Beatles-inspired psychedelic fantasy that lesser talents can only dream of even imagining. While his multi-tagged and tied opening straightjackets were the season's best—and boldest—look. Taakk See catwalk Takuya Morikawa of Taakk staged the final official show of Paris menswear—and talk about a sweet F-finale. Morikawa wants men to be sophisticated next summer, with all manner of innovative dyeing processes and silhouette-enhancing details. Elegant light coats were given volume through multiple sculptural embroideries, made in ribbons drawn from the same fabric as the garment. Dévoré technique coupled with foam printing processes created indistinct fusions of printed motifs, embroidery and gradient effects. Surface chic at its best.
Fashion Network
01-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Deeny's dozen: 12 best menswear collections this season
These are my rankings of the 12 best menswear collections in the runway season that ended on Sunday evening in Paris, listed in chronological order. A season characterized by rampant color, stylish historicism, hybrid fabrics and a battle over the future of tailoring— to deconstruct or not? Enter the renaissance of male refinement. Zegna See catwalk Though this collection was unveiled at the Dubai Opera, it was still easily one of Europe's best arrays of new ideas. Recycled fabrics or hybrid threads; whisper-light deconstruction; and the first of many pajama suits in one-inch-wide vertical stripes in light silk voile. In a word, Alessandro Sartori at his best. Welcome to the lightest of layering. Post Archive Faction (PAF) See catwalk Something of a breakout moment for Post Archive Faction (PAF) co-founder Dongjoon Lim, whose meeting of tough chic and street style was revelatory. Stiff dandy pajama suits in putty-hued toweling material; chiffon mesh crepe blazers that felt like light scouring pads; or desert-dry linen shirts presented to huge applause inside Stazione Leopolda. Very much the standout fashion show of Pitti. Dolce & Gabbana See catwalk Expect a long, hot summer in 2026—ideally when wearing the latest from Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Stripes, stripes and more stripes, leading to the finale where two scores of hirsute male models marched out in pajama pants, blazers, shorts and suits—all maxi-decorated with crystal, jet and strass. Casualwear chic conquers all. Brioni See catwalk A moment of grace—and extreme levity—at Brioni, presented in a palazzo that once belonged to the Casati family, whose Maria Luisa Casati—artist muse and style icon—inspired one of John Galliano 's greatest shows. From perfectly cut pale shawl-collar silk-linen tuxedos, where adding enzymes reduced the shine, to a beige tuxedo embroidered with real gold thread in tiny designs of Brioni's famed plant in the Abruzzi region, this was the finest example of haute sartorial style. And a thousand miles from AI. Giorgio Armani See catwalk Giorgio missed his signature show due to ill health, and it did lack an edit. But it was still the best selection of the super-deconstructed summer suits made in silk and pajama fabrics. Giorgio's polished Pantelleria panache at its best. Even absent, Armani remains menswear's greatest tailor. Louis Vuitton See catwalk Snakes-and-ladders chic from Pharrell Williams and his best collection so far for Louis Vuitton, staged in a massive fashion and music happening outside the Pompidou Center. The pay dirt coming in Williams' excellent fresh tailoring: from snappy pop star double-breasted jackets worn with flared trousers, to micro blazers and wide pleated pants—very David Live album cover in Paris. Add 'tailor' to Pharrell's list of professions, after producer, rockstar, dandy and dad. Grace Wales Bonner See catwalk In a season defined by the renaissance of kicky tailoring, Grace Wales Bonner was completely in the zone with her blend of Afro-Caribbean panache meets active sports. Lean suits with ever-so-flared pants and jackets with contrast collars; Crombies accessorized with diamond baobab-flower brooches and berets courtesy of Stephen Jones, and the best eveningwear in menswear. All anchored by some amazing new Y-3 Field shoes. Issey Miyake See catwalk After a far too restrained Homme Plissé collection in Pitti, the house's IM Men 'Dancing Texture' collection, in the soon-to-be-relocated Fondation Cartier, was a real beauty. Performance dance art met adventurous design, fabrics and color. As design trio Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara and Nobutaka Kobayashi showed scale-like motifs echoing across suits, tunics, kimono jackets and draped trench coats—made in hues of acid greens, violet blues and dazzling turquoises. The color palette of the season and a lesson to cool guys on how to stand out in a crowd. Dries Van Noten See catwalk Very much the noisiest applause of the season was for the menswear debut of Dries Van Noten, where feminine fabrics and hues met fluid menswear tailoring. Revamped and rippling opera coats; double-breasted blazers with noble volumes; pale trenches with crystal-embroidered shoulders; silk tops in Edwardian rugby shirt colors with plissé pajama pants. These were the clothes that the cast most enjoyed being seen in this June. Always a telling sign. Dior See catwalk In the season's biggest debut, Jonathan Anderson at Dior, the Northern Irishman zoned in on the house's DNA—especially womenswear designs by Monsieur Dior himself—to create a powerful, pathbreaking fashion statement. Like Monsieur's famed Bar Jacket whipped up in Donegal tweed. Or Monsieur's Autumn 1948 multi-fold Delft dress made in silk faille that morphed into multi-leaf white denim cargo shorts. Or Christian's Autumn 1952 dimpled moiré coat, La Cigale, that became undulating men's greatcoats. Turning Dior's DNA upside down for the 21st century—and about time too. Craig Green See catwalk The most fertile imagination in menswear, Craig Green helped close out the season with a show that was simply sensational. Riffing through materials, epochs, cultural references and diverse artistic moods, Green developed a Beatles-inspired psychedelic fantasy that lesser talents can only dream of even imagining. While his multi-tagged and tied opening straightjackets were the season's best—and boldest—look. Taakk See catwalk Takuya Morikawa of Taakk staged the final official show of Paris menswear—and talk about a sweet F-finale. Morikawa wants men to be sophisticated next summer, with all manner of innovative dyeing processes and silhouette-enhancing details. Elegant light coats were given volume through multiple sculptural embroideries, made in ribbons drawn from the same fabric as the garment. Dévoré technique coupled with foam printing processes created indistinct fusions of printed motifs, embroidery and gradient effects. Surface chic at its best.
Mint
28-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Mint
Milan Fashion Week: Designers offer luxury PJs, softly tailored suits
The spring-summer menswear collections showcased at the recently concluded Milan Fashion Week rooted for statement-making clothing that combined playfulness with functionality. Dolce & Gabbana, for instance, paved the way for pyjama dressing, with models wearing PJ sets. The brand proposed tailoring mixed with innerwear and sleepwear separates. A panoply of flamboyant embellished blazers were the other key highlights at the show. Brioni's closing look, meanwhile, was a gold jacket embroidered with 24-karat gold beadings in the same shape as the house's Penne, Italy, factory. Here are some of the key trends that emerged at the Milan Fashion Week: Soft suiting It's been a season of broken tailoring, lightweight textiles and languid silhouettes, all offering ease, movement and freedom. Canali offered a decidedly contemporary take on formalwear—proposing matching tops and trousers reimagined in outerwear and overshirt shapes. The house's signature Nuvola trench made its presence felt in ultra-light suede with a soft knit lining. The overarching inspiration came from vintage cars (Grand Turismo racing cars from the 1960s and 1970s, paying homage to Monza as part of the Brianza region of Italy) and their visually sumptuous interiors which informed the stitching and tailoring. Emporio Armani, too, softened up its core tailoring rendered in densely fashioned fabrics that embodied nomadic chic. Also read: Bollywood and India inspire me: French designer Mossi Traoré Travel inspo The Paul Smith collection referenced a book of souvenir photographs of Egyptian landmarks. The designer, Paul Smith, had acquired the tome in a street bazaar while vacationing with his wife, Pauline, around 25 years ago. The book rediscovered at work informed a range of motifs in the collection, from fish to bloom prints. Designer Matteo Tamburini at Tod's, too, reimagined easy tailoring employing soft yet structured fabrics, including wool, suede and silk. The Emporio Armani show saw an array of supple, piped, nylon track jackets and shorts printed with the same geometric patterns drawn from the rich textile heritage of the Taznakht region in Morocco. Playful layering From Prada to Dolce & Gabbana, designers mixed high with the low, formal with informal, polished with bohemian, creating a visual disturbance of sorts. At Dunhill, Simon Holloway explored English duality—classic elegance with rock n' roll icons like Charlie Watts and Bryan Ferry. One of the key highlights were the linen blazers paired with regency stripes and floral printed waistcoats worn with Japanese denims. Prada presented a crisp cotton poplin shirt styled with elastic-hemmed bloomer short-shorts, featuring popper pockets. An interesting array of bob and bucket hats finished off the looks. Vivienne Westwood's vibrant, evocative and playful line-up, too, saw a mash-up of womenswear with menswear. A floral print dress was styled with a pair of Roman boots and a rose embroidered tabard was paired with a mid-calf redsatin boot. It was punk and provocative. Also read: Floral prints in the office: Tips from experts to refresh your work wardrobe
