Deeny's dozen: 12 best menswear collections this season
Zegna
See catwalk
Though this collection was unveiled at the Dubai Opera, it was still easily one of Europe's best arrays of new ideas. Recycled fabrics or hybrid threads; whisper-light deconstruction; and the first of many pajama suits in one-inch-wide vertical stripes in light silk voile. In a word, Alessandro Sartori at his best. Welcome to the lightest of layering.
See catwalk
Something of a breakout moment for Post Archive Faction (PAF) co-founder Dongjoon Lim, whose meeting of tough chic and street style was revelatory. Stiff dandy pajama suits in putty-hued toweling material; chiffon mesh crepe blazers that felt like light scouring pads; or desert-dry linen shirts presented to huge applause inside Stazione Leopolda. Very much the standout fashion show of Pitti.
Dolce & Gabbana
See catwalk
Expect a long, hot summer in 2026—ideally when wearing the latest from Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Stripes, stripes and more stripes, leading to the finale where two scores of hirsute male models marched out in pajama pants, blazers, shorts and suits—all maxi-decorated with crystal, jet and strass. Casualwear chic conquers all.
Brioni
See catwalk
A moment of grace—and extreme levity—at Brioni, presented in a palazzo that once belonged to the Casati family, whose Maria Luisa Casati—artist muse and style icon—inspired one of John Galliano 's greatest shows. From perfectly cut pale shawl-collar silk-linen tuxedos, where adding enzymes reduced the shine, to a beige tuxedo embroidered with real gold thread in tiny designs of Brioni's famed plant in the Abruzzi region, this was the finest example of haute sartorial style. And a thousand miles from AI.
Giorgio Armani
See catwalk
Giorgio missed his signature show due to ill health, and it did lack an edit. But it was still the best selection of the super-deconstructed summer suits made in silk and pajama fabrics. Giorgio's polished Pantelleria panache at its best. Even absent, Armani remains menswear's greatest tailor.
Louis Vuitton
See catwalk
Snakes-and-ladders chic from Pharrell Williams and his best collection so far for Louis Vuitton, staged in a massive fashion and music happening outside the Pompidou Center. The pay dirt coming in Williams' excellent fresh tailoring: from snappy pop star double-breasted jackets worn with flared trousers, to micro blazers and wide pleated pants—very David Live album cover in Paris. Add 'tailor' to Pharrell's list of professions, after producer, rockstar, dandy and dad.
Grace Wales Bonner
See catwalk
In a season defined by the renaissance of kicky tailoring, Grace Wales Bonner was completely in the zone with her blend of Afro-Caribbean panache meets active sports. Lean suits with ever-so-flared pants and jackets with contrast collars; Crombies accessorized with diamond baobab-flower brooches and berets courtesy of Stephen Jones, and the best eveningwear in menswear. All anchored by some amazing new Y-3 Field shoes.
Issey Miyake
See catwalk
After a far too restrained Homme Plissé collection in Pitti, the house's IM Men 'Dancing Texture' collection, in the soon-to-be-relocated Fondation Cartier, was a real beauty.
Performance dance art met adventurous design, fabrics and color. As design trio Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara and Nobutaka Kobayashi showed scale-like motifs echoing across suits, tunics, kimono jackets and draped trench coats—made in hues of acid greens, violet blues and dazzling turquoises. The color palette of the season and a lesson to cool guys on how to stand out in a crowd.
Dries Van Noten
See catwalk
Very much the noisiest applause of the season was for the menswear debut of Dries Van Noten, where feminine fabrics and hues met fluid menswear tailoring. Revamped and rippling opera coats; double-breasted blazers with noble volumes; pale trenches with crystal-embroidered shoulders; silk tops in Edwardian rugby shirt colors with plissé pajama pants. These were the clothes that the cast most enjoyed being seen in this June. Always a telling sign.
Dior
See catwalk
In the season's biggest debut, Jonathan Anderson at Dior, the Northern Irishman zoned in on the house's DNA—especially womenswear designs by Monsieur Dior himself—to create a powerful, pathbreaking fashion statement. Like Monsieur's famed Bar Jacket whipped up in Donegal tweed. Or Monsieur's Autumn 1948 multi-fold Delft dress made in silk faille that morphed into multi-leaf white denim cargo shorts. Or Christian's Autumn 1952 dimpled moiré coat, La Cigale, that became undulating men's greatcoats. Turning Dior's DNA upside down for the 21st century—and about time too.
Craig Green
See catwalk
The most fertile imagination in menswear, Craig Green helped close out the season with a show that was simply sensational. Riffing through materials, epochs, cultural references and diverse artistic moods, Green developed a Beatles-inspired psychedelic fantasy that lesser talents can only dream of even imagining. While his multi-tagged and tied opening straightjackets were the season's best—and boldest—look.
Taakk
See catwalk
Takuya Morikawa of Taakk staged the final official show of Paris menswear—and talk about a sweet F-finale. Morikawa wants men to be sophisticated next summer, with all manner of innovative dyeing processes and silhouette-enhancing details. Elegant light coats were given volume through multiple sculptural embroideries, made in ribbons drawn from the same fabric as the garment. Dévoré technique coupled with foam printing processes created indistinct fusions of printed motifs, embroidery and gradient effects. Surface chic at its best.
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Fashion Network
9 hours ago
- Fashion Network
Spring/Summer 2026 men's collections: Galeries Lafayette's head menswear buyer gives her take
Menswear took centre-stage in June. The season kicked off with the Pitti Uomo show in Florence, continued with Milan Fashion Week, and ended with the Jacquemus runway show that brought Paris Fashion Week to a close at the Orangery in the Palace of Versailles, on June 29. Two weeks during which the spotlight was on the men's collections for Spring/Summer 2026. What were the takeaways of fashion buyers after this intense fortnight? has discussed some of them with Alice Feillard, head of menswear purchasing at Galeries Lafayette. See catwalk Feillard has always regarded Pitti Uomo as a key occasion for scrutinising different product categories and positioning segments. 'The Pitti session was extremely positive, full of energy and quality,' she said. 'We always discover new labels [at Pitti] and enjoy meeting with labels we're working with, like Homme Plissé, the show's guest of honour, which presented a very fine collection in the garden of a sublime Medici palazzo. Pitti sets the tone for the season, both in terms of trends and business. Milan was quieter, some big names that will show in September were missing, but this enabled younger, more niche labels to emerge and enjoy better visibility, like Umit Benan, Setchu and Vivienne Westwood,' she added. See catwalk Feillard observed that the French capital remains the world's key fashion hub, the main venue for runway shows and showrooms by both established and emerging labels. 'The latest Paris Fashion Week was a declaration of love for fashion, an ode to optimism and creativity with a very high standard of execution,' she said, underlining that this applied both to major labels and independent designers. 'While the market situation is tough, labels have decided to push the envelope of creativity, which was what the industry needed: renewed desirability, emotional appeal and perceived value as a way of restoring customer confidence,' she added. It was a decision to invest that, according to Feillard, was apparent in the setting of many of the shows. She cited ' Louis Vuitton 's grandiose setting on the Beaubourg forecourt,' as well as Rick Owens 's spectacular performance in the fountain of the Palais de Tokyo, at once punk, poetic and primitive; the very Parisian, filmic setting created by Ami in place des Victoires; Y-3's choice of a dance performance; and manga aficionado Louis Gabriel Nouchi, who screened an animation film during his discreet presentation at the Silencio club.' Feillard reckons that the season's main events took place in Paris, including Jonathan Anderson's highly anticipated debut at Dior Homme. 'Dior is writing an exciting new chapter in its history, spearheaded by one of the most talented designers of his generation. Adopting his well-known conceptual approach, Jonathan Anderson cleverly tapped into Dior's heritage and archives to propel the house into the future, presenting a decidedly avant-garde, rather intellectual collection,' she said. See catwalk Ranking in Feilllard's top five, there was another debut, Julian Klausner's at Dries Van Noten. 'All of Dries's codes where there, but younger silhouettes, clearer cuts, and sharper colours gave the collection a strong hint of modernity,' she said. Feillard also mentioned Lemaire which, 'season after season, keeps showcasing a virtually perfect wardrobe, anchored in reality and highly desirable,' Saint Laurent for its 'sensuality and fluidity and a magnificent colour palette,' and media-savvy Jacquemus, which 'presented a beautiful highly individual collection rooted in its DNA. The icing on the cake of a very successful fashion week.' See catwalk Feillard also appreciated some lesser-known creative talents, like Hed Mayner, Auralee, KidSuper and Louis Gabriel Nouchi, and believes that 'Willy Chavarria and Kartik Research were the revelations of Paris Fashion Week, staging extremely convincing shows.' She added that AlainPaul, the Andam Prize's latest winner, will be available at Galeries Lafayette next season. Overall, Feillard was positive about the prospects for Spring/Summer 2026. She observed that most of next summer's collections featured lightweight, almost ethereal natural materials, placing the accent on fluid, sophisticated tailoring. She is also expecting 'an injection of vibrant colours, after several seasons of monochrome hues, although taupe and chocolate brown will still be ubiquitous.' Feillard's favourite items were 'an ample double-breasted jacket worn over trousers with generous darts, a taupe suede jacket, a loose-fitting striped shirt, an elegant striped pyjama set, darted shorts and micro shorts.' For the early part of the season, she liked 'a cotton or light nylon coat.' To complete their looks, men will wear 'soft leather moccasins and, for the summer, a pair of minimalist leather flip-flops.'
Fashion Network
13 hours ago
- Fashion Network
Spring/Summer 2026 men's collections: Galeries Lafayette's head menswear buyer gives her take
Menswear took centre-stage in June. The season kicked off with the Pitti Uomo show in Florence, continued with Milan Fashion Week, and ended with the Jacquemus runway show that brought Paris Fashion Week to a close at the Orangery in the Palace of Versailles, on June 29. Two weeks during which the spotlight was on the men's collections for Spring/Summer 2026. What were the takeaways of fashion buyers after this intense fortnight? has discussed some of them with Alice Feillard, head of menswear purchasing at Galeries Lafayette. See catwalk Feillard has always regarded Pitti Uomo as a key occasion for scrutinising different product categories and positioning segments. 'The Pitti session was extremely positive, full of energy and quality,' she said. 'We always discover new labels [at Pitti] and enjoy meeting with labels we're working with, like Homme Plissé, the show's guest of honour, which presented a very fine collection in the garden of a sublime Medici palazzo. Pitti sets the tone for the season, both in terms of trends and business. Milan was quieter, some big names that will show in September were missing, but this enabled younger, more niche labels to emerge and enjoy better visibility, like Umit Benan, Setchu and Vivienne Westwood,' she added. See catwalk Feillard observed that the French capital remains the world's key fashion hub, the main venue for runway shows and showrooms by both established and emerging labels. 'The latest Paris Fashion Week was a declaration of love for fashion, an ode to optimism and creativity with a very high standard of execution,' she said, underlining that this applied both to major labels and independent designers. 'While the market situation is tough, labels have decided to push the envelope of creativity, which was what the industry needed: renewed desirability, emotional appeal and perceived value as a way of restoring customer confidence,' she added. It was a decision to invest that, according to Feillard, was apparent in the setting of many of the shows. She cited ' Louis Vuitton 's grandiose setting on the Beaubourg forecourt,' as well as Rick Owens 's spectacular performance in the fountain of the Palais de Tokyo, at once punk, poetic and primitive; the very Parisian, filmic setting created by Ami in place des Victoires; Y-3's choice of a dance performance; and manga aficionado Louis Gabriel Nouchi, who screened an animation film during his discreet presentation at the Silencio club.' Feillard reckons that the season's main events took place in Paris, including Jonathan Anderson's highly anticipated debut at Dior Homme. 'Dior is writing an exciting new chapter in its history, spearheaded by one of the most talented designers of his generation. Adopting his well-known conceptual approach, Jonathan Anderson cleverly tapped into Dior's heritage and archives to propel the house into the future, presenting a decidedly avant-garde, rather intellectual collection,' she said. See catwalk Ranking in Feilllard's top five, there was another debut, Julian Klausner's at Dries Van Noten. 'All of Dries's codes where there, but younger silhouettes, clearer cuts, and sharper colours gave the collection a strong hint of modernity,' she said. Feillard also mentioned Lemaire which, 'season after season, keeps showcasing a virtually perfect wardrobe, anchored in reality and highly desirable,' Saint Laurent for its 'sensuality and fluidity and a magnificent colour palette,' and media-savvy Jacquemus, which 'presented a beautiful highly individual collection rooted in its DNA. The icing on the cake of a very successful fashion week.' See catwalk Feillard also appreciated some lesser-known creative talents, like Hed Mayner, Auralee, KidSuper and Louis Gabriel Nouchi, and believes that 'Willy Chavarria and Kartik Research were the revelations of Paris Fashion Week, staging extremely convincing shows.' She added that AlainPaul, the Andam Prize's latest winner, will be available at Galeries Lafayette next season. Overall, Feillard was positive about the prospects for Spring/Summer 2026. She observed that most of next summer's collections featured lightweight, almost ethereal natural materials, placing the accent on fluid, sophisticated tailoring. She is also expecting 'an injection of vibrant colours, after several seasons of monochrome hues, although taupe and chocolate brown will still be ubiquitous.' Feillard's favourite items were 'an ample double-breasted jacket worn over trousers with generous darts, a taupe suede jacket, a loose-fitting striped shirt, an elegant striped pyjama set, darted shorts and micro shorts.' For the early part of the season, she liked 'a cotton or light nylon coat.' To complete their looks, men will wear 'soft leather moccasins and, for the summer, a pair of minimalist leather flip-flops.'
Fashion Network
13 hours ago
- Fashion Network
Spring/Summer 2026 men's collections: Galeries Lafayette's head menswear buyer gives her take
Menswear took centre-stage in June. The season kicked off with the Pitti Uomo show in Florence, continued with Milan Fashion Week, and ended with the Jacquemus runway show that brought Paris Fashion Week to a close at the Orangery in the Palace of Versailles, on June 29. Two weeks during which the spotlight was on the men's collections for Spring/Summer 2026. What were the takeaways of fashion buyers after this intense fortnight? has discussed some of them with Alice Feillard, head of menswear purchasing at Galeries Lafayette. See catwalk Feillard has always regarded Pitti Uomo as a key occasion for scrutinising different product categories and positioning segments. 'The Pitti session was extremely positive, full of energy and quality,' she said. 'We always discover new labels [at Pitti] and enjoy meeting with labels we're working with, like Homme Plissé, the show's guest of honour, which presented a very fine collection in the garden of a sublime Medici palazzo. Pitti sets the tone for the season, both in terms of trends and business. Milan was quieter, some big names that will show in September were missing, but this enabled younger, more niche labels to emerge and enjoy better visibility, like Umit Benan, Setchu and Vivienne Westwood,' she added. See catwalk Feillard observed that the French capital remains the world's key fashion hub, the main venue for runway shows and showrooms by both established and emerging labels. 'The latest Paris Fashion Week was a declaration of love for fashion, an ode to optimism and creativity with a very high standard of execution,' she said, underlining that this applied both to major labels and independent designers. 'While the market situation is tough, labels have decided to push the envelope of creativity, which was what the industry needed: renewed desirability, emotional appeal and perceived value as a way of restoring customer confidence,' she added. It was a decision to invest that, according to Feillard, was apparent in the setting of many of the shows. She cited ' Louis Vuitton 's grandiose setting on the Beaubourg forecourt,' as well as Rick Owens 's spectacular performance in the fountain of the Palais de Tokyo, at once punk, poetic and primitive; the very Parisian, filmic setting created by Ami in place des Victoires; Y-3's choice of a dance performance; and manga aficionado Louis Gabriel Nouchi, who screened an animation film during his discreet presentation at the Silencio club.' Feillard reckons that the season's main events took place in Paris, including Jonathan Anderson's highly anticipated debut at Dior Homme. 'Dior is writing an exciting new chapter in its history, spearheaded by one of the most talented designers of his generation. Adopting his well-known conceptual approach, Jonathan Anderson cleverly tapped into Dior's heritage and archives to propel the house into the future, presenting a decidedly avant-garde, rather intellectual collection,' she said. See catwalk Ranking in Feilllard's top five, there was another debut, Julian Klausner's at Dries Van Noten. 'All of Dries's codes where there, but younger silhouettes, clearer cuts, and sharper colours gave the collection a strong hint of modernity,' she said. Feillard also mentioned Lemaire which, 'season after season, keeps showcasing a virtually perfect wardrobe, anchored in reality and highly desirable,' Saint Laurent for its 'sensuality and fluidity and a magnificent colour palette,' and media-savvy Jacquemus, which 'presented a beautiful highly individual collection rooted in its DNA. The icing on the cake of a very successful fashion week.' See catwalk Feillard also appreciated some lesser-known creative talents, like Hed Mayner, Auralee, KidSuper and Louis Gabriel Nouchi, and believes that 'Willy Chavarria and Kartik Research were the revelations of Paris Fashion Week, staging extremely convincing shows.' She added that AlainPaul, the Andam Prize's latest winner, will be available at Galeries Lafayette next season. Overall, Feillard was positive about the prospects for Spring/Summer 2026. She observed that most of next summer's collections featured lightweight, almost ethereal natural materials, placing the accent on fluid, sophisticated tailoring. She is also expecting 'an injection of vibrant colours, after several seasons of monochrome hues, although taupe and chocolate brown will still be ubiquitous.' Feillard's favourite items were 'an ample double-breasted jacket worn over trousers with generous darts, a taupe suede jacket, a loose-fitting striped shirt, an elegant striped pyjama set, darted shorts and micro shorts.' For the early part of the season, she liked 'a cotton or light nylon coat.' To complete their looks, men will wear 'soft leather moccasins and, for the summer, a pair of minimalist leather flip-flops.'
