Latest news with #ChristianSelmoni
Man of Many
12-07-2025
- Business
- Man of Many
The Wind Up – Watch News #331
Welcome back to The Wind Up, our weekly series highlighting the newest watches of the past seven days, and what a week it has been! Alongside a suite of stunning new high-complication models from the world's biggest and brightest watchmakers, there were a few surprise announcements that landed this week. From dive watches and sports timepieces to the latest in classy dress watches and grand complications, the last few weeks have offered no shortage of stand-out announcements. What's more, it isn't over yet. This week, the world's biggest watchmakers—and a few budding independents—kept the good vibes rolling. In this latest instalment, we'll be featuring some of the coolest new watches, including pieces from the likes of Vacheron Constantin, Breguet and Glashütte Original. Happy reading, fellas, and I hope you have a great week ahead. Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface | Image: Vacehron Constantin Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface Brand: Vacheron Constantin Vacheron Constantin Model: Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface Reference: Ref. 9750C/000R-215C Ref. 9750C/000R-215C Diameter: 45m 45m Thickness: 16.40mm 16.40mm Material : Pink gold : Pink gold Movement: Calibre 2757 S Calibre 2757 S Power Reserve: 58 hours 58 hours Price: Piece unique Vacheron Constantin is at its very best when it explores high-complication watchmaking, and in the case of the Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface, we have yet another absolute masterpiece. Ridiculously complicated and bursting at the seams with unique functionality and design elements, the piece unique features a tourbillon, a minute repeater, and a rattrapante, alongside the usual time-telling indicators and a power reserve. According to Vacheron Constantin, the latest grand complication comprises around 700 individual components, making it one of the most complex (and ultimately hefty) timepieces ever produced by the Maison. Best of all, the stunning calibre 2757 S is revealed through the sapphire dial and the sapphire back of the 45mm 5N pink gold (750/1000) case. According to Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin, the combination of functions, minute repeater, chronograph and tourbillon, is very rare in wristwatches, essentially for reasons of volume and precision. 'More usually, in grand complication wristwatches, we see minute repeaters associated with perpetual calendars,' Selmoni said. 'That configuration certainly requires a great deal of expertise but the chronograph, with its clutch and column-wheel system, which on this piece is duplicated for the rattrapante, is an even bigger issue in terms of miniaturisation.' The Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface is perhaps the ultimate expression of true haute horlogerie, and in this beautifully warm pink gold guise, there really is nothing like it. Immensely complicated, immensely exclusive and equally as immensely expensive, the Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface is just supreme. Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral | Image: Breguet Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral Brand: Breguet Breguet Model: Classique Tourbillon Sidéral Classique Tourbillon Sidéral Reference Number: 7255BH/2Y/9VU 7255BH/2Y/9VU Diameter: 38mm 38mm Thickness: 10.20mm 10.20mm Material : Breguet gold : Breguet gold Water Resistance: 30 metres 30 metres Movement: Calibre 187M1 Calibre 187M1 Power Reserve: 50 hours 50 hours Price: CHF190,000 (Limited to 50 pieces) Much like Vacheron Constantin, iconic watchmaker Breguet continues to expand on its illustrious history through its enviable high-watchmaking prowess. The Classique Tourbillon Sidéral continues the Maison's 250th anniversary celebrations and once again serves as the perfect reminder of the underlying technical brilliance that is Breguet. This time around, however, there is a brand-first. The Classique Tourbillon Sidéral is, somewhat surprisingly, the brand's very first flying tourbillon model. The original tourbillon movement was famously pioneered by the maison's founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, in 1801, so it does seem shocking that it's taken over 200 years for Breguet to work on a floating iteration. Thankfully, it was well worth the wait. Perched inside an elegant cage on the dial face, the complex mechanism differs from its traditional counterparts through the absence of an upper bar. It thus appears suspended in space as if untethered to the laws of gravity. As our own Jacob OSborn wrote on its release, this particular iteration goes one step further by eschewing a pivot at the top to anchor all the support at the base, resulting in better balance and improved adjustability. Limited to just 50 units worldwide and paired with a beautiful aventurine enamel dial, the Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral is perhaps the watchmaker's most triumphant celebration yet. The combination of the deep blue dial paired with the warmth of the Breguet gold case and dial accents makes for a stunning aesthetic. Spectacular. Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon | Image: Glashütte Original Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon Brand: Glashütte Original Glashütte Original Model: PanoLunarTourbillon PanoLunarTourbillon Reference: Ref. 1-93-03-01-03-xx Ref. 1-93-03-01-03-xx Diameter: 40mm 40mm Thickness: 12.70mm 12.70mm Material : Platinum : Platinum Water Resistance: 50 metres 50 metres Movement: Calibre 93-03 Calibre 93-03 Power Reserve: 60 hours 60 hours Price: €125,000 (Limited to 50 pieces) Last but certainly not least, this week is the new PanoLunarTourbillon from Glashütte Original. This new limited edition variant of the much-loved timepiece sports some beautiful aesthetic changes to the dial and case, however, still features that stunning flying-tourbillon in the bottom left quadrant of the dial. This time around, Glashütte Original has eschewed the traditional gold case in favour of something slightly more dazzling. The 40mm platinum design is lovingly finished with a mixture of polished and brushed textures, creating a refined and dynamic aesthetic that feels innately premium. Admittedly, as the 47mm lug-to-lug measurements might indicate, this PanoLunarTourbillon is no small number, but what it lacks in subtlety, it makes up for in stellar design and functionality. The German watchmaker has fitted this latest release with the new calibre 93.03; a movement that powers a stunning moonphase complication, the iconic Panorama Date (which uses two separate discs on a single level) and a much-coveted flying tourbillon. And then, of course, there is the dial. For this, Glashütte has introduced a special galvanic treatment to create a rich and textured salmon hue. The main section is grained, while the hours and minutes have a snailed texture, which works to add a certain level of depth to the piece. The result is a watch that is already super appealing, made that much more intriguing. Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue | Image: Armin Strom Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue Brand: Armin Strom Armin Strom Model: Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue Reference: Ref. Ref. Diameter: 41mm 41mm Thickness: 12.65mm 12.65mm Material : Stainless steel : Stainless steel Water Resistance: 30 metres 30 metres Movement: Calibre ASB19 Calibre ASB19 Power Reserve: 72 hours 72 hours Price: CHF27,500 (Limited production of 25 pieces per year) From Armin Strom, we have the latest version of its esteemed Gravity Equal Force Ultimate, this time with an icy blue look. Inspired by the cool glacial lakes and Alpine light found in Switzerland, the Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue boasts all of the same tell-tale signs that are very much becoming of its flagship status, aside from some small, visceral changes. The first is a blue PVD main plate complete with a guilloché pattern and a lovely blue nubuck leather strap. From there, you'll also spy a horizontal clutch and a compact micro-rotor within the watch's architecture. These additions, visible from the dial side, not only provide constant force timekeeping but do wonders for the unique timepiece's aesthetic credentials. The Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue isn't an evolutionary update; rather, it expands on a collection that is already super successful and adds some more variation to the family.
South China Morning Post
11-04-2025
- Business
- South China Morning Post
The key trends at Watches and Wonders 2025: form, fit and function rule, with new concepts from Rolex and Vacheron Constantin, cool wearability from A. Lange & Söhne and Panerai, and bold new colours
When more than 60 brands showcased new releases at Watches and Wonders this year , innovation and bold design leap to mind as the main stand-outs. Some brands focused on new mechanics under the bonnet, some chose to focus on increasing durability and function, while others concentrated on rethinking aesthetics in terms of colour use and watch size. Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson. Photo: Handout Vacheron Constantin veered heavily in one direction as it released Les Cabinotiers Solaria, breaking the record for most complications in a single wristwatch at 41. 'Usually for these grand complication [pieces],' Vacheron Constantin heritage and style director Christian Selmoni told us in a round-table chat, 'you'll see that there is engraving or gem setting to emphasise the complexity of the watch and the value of the timepiece. [To contrast with that] we wanted to do a very simple design […] because if you look at the dial, which is technical, we wanted to have this readability and the case is almost brutal. We wanted to anchor this timepiece in modernity, which is something I think unexpected but that people will appreciate, [especially] since we are already breaking with tradition.' Advertisement While Selmoni refers to the Solaria specifically, the desire to develop bold and exciting yet relevant and wearable pieces is a key undercurrent in all the disparate and wonderful ways brands approached their releases this year. New movements, new borders A view of the Calibre L122.2 in the A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual. Photo: Handout Vacheron Constantin and Bulgari are certainly not the only names pushing boundaries in 2025, and nor was Rolex the only brand that debuted a stunning new movement . Grand Seiko made waves as it released Spring Drive UFA (meaning Ultra-Fine Accuracy) with the new 9RB2 calibre inside. It combines quartz oscillation with traditional mechanical powering to achieve an accuracy of plus/minus 20 seconds a year. A. Lange & Söhne introduced two new movements with wearability in mind. The Minute Repeater Perpetual contains the new L122.2 calibre and combines big date, perpetual calendar and minute repeater complications in a case thickness of just 12.1mm. Meanwhile, the brand released the smallest version of the 1815 yet with a 34mm case courtesy of the calibre L152.1 allowing for a smaller watch, which also has a whopping 72 hours of power reserve. Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech. Photo: Handout Movements aren't the only spaces for upgrades – brands also focused on functionality. Panerai's Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech allows you to set the perpetual calendar using the crown only, with no need to fiddle with separate pushers or correctors. Complicated yet functional
CNN
01-04-2025
- Business
- CNN
World's ‘most complicated' wristwatch unveiled
It tracks the sun's position in the sky. It chimes with the sound of hammers hitting four miniature gongs. It even tells the wearer when certain stars will be visible from Earth. Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin's latest timepiece is not just packed with novel features — it is, officially, the most complicated mechanical wristwatch ever produced. In horology, a 'complication' refers to any function that goes beyond standard time-telling, such as a Gregorian calendar or moon phase display. And Vacheron Constantin's new Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication contains a record-breaking 41 of them. The one-off design, which went on show at the Watches and Wonders trade fair in Switzerland on Tuesday, comprises 1,521 separate components. The watchmaker is seeking to protect its new creation through 13 patent applications, seven of which relate to the chiming mechanism. Seen by CNN during a fair preview, the watch presents three different measures of time: A conventional 24-hour-day, the sidereal time (the time taken for Earth to spin on its axis, which is around four minutes shorter than a calendar day) and the solar day (which is adjusted for the Earth's elliptical orbit). Among the dozens of other complications are astronomical functions tracking the sun's position, height, trajectory and angle relative to Earth's equator. A rotating display featuring the zodiac's 13 constellations can meanwhile be adjusted to show when those stars will next be visible in the sky. The watchmaker said its record-breaking wristwatch was eight years in the making, describing it as a 'masterpiece of innovation.' The single-model watch's case is made from 18-karat white gold and contains over 200 jewels, including several sapphire discs. Founded in 1755 and now owned by luxury conglomerate Richemont, Vacheron Constantin also holds the record for the most complicated pocket watch. The brand's Berkley Grand Complication, unveiled last year, features 63 horological complications including a Chinese perpetual calendar displaying the complex lunisolar cycle. But while this represents 22 more complications than those boasted by its latest creation, pocket watches can be considerably larger than wristwatches. At 45 millimeters (1.8 inches), the new Solaria Ultra Grand Complication's case is less than half the diameter of the Berkley's. As such, the design challenge was also about fitting the watch's functions into a case small enough to be comfortably worn on the wrist, according to Vacheron Constantin's style and heritage director, Christian Selmoni. In a press release describing the wristwatch as a 'feat of miniaturization,' Selmoni said the brand's horologists had arranged tiny components in the 'most logical and compact way possible.' 'The main objective was to bring together all the main complications, timekeeping, calendar, chronograph and chiming, on a single base plate and to concentrate the astronomical functions on an additional plate,' he is quoted saying. 'Thanks to this construction, it was possible to create a wristwatch with harmonious proportions.'
CNN
01-04-2025
- Business
- CNN
World's ‘most complicated' wristwatch unveiled
It tracks the sun's position in the sky. It chimes with the sound of hammers hitting four miniature gongs. It even tells the wearer when certain stars will be visible from Earth. Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin's latest timepiece is not just packed with novel features — it is, officially, the most complicated mechanical wristwatch ever produced. In horology, a 'complication' refers to any function that goes beyond standard time-telling, such as a Gregorian calendar or moon phase display. And Vacheron Constantin's new Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication contains a record-breaking 41 of them. The one-off design, which went on show at the Watches and Wonders trade fair in Switzerland on Tuesday, comprises 1,521 separate components. The watchmaker is seeking to protect its new creation through 13 patent applications, seven of which relate to the chiming mechanism. Seen by CNN during a fair preview, the watch presents three different measures of time: A conventional 24-hour-day, the sidereal time (the time taken for Earth to spin on its axis, which is around four minutes shorter than a calendar day) and the solar day (which is adjusted for the Earth's elliptical orbit). Among the dozens of other complications are astronomical functions tracking the sun's position, height, trajectory and angle relative to Earth's equator. A rotating display featuring the zodiac's 13 constellations can meanwhile be adjusted to show when those stars will next be visible in the sky. The watchmaker said its record-breaking wristwatch was eight years in the making, describing it as a 'masterpiece of innovation.' The single-model watch's case is made from 18-karat white gold and contains over 200 jewels, including several sapphire discs. Founded in 1755 and now owned by luxury conglomerate Richemont, Vacheron Constantin also holds the record for the most complicated pocket watch. The brand's Berkley Grand Complication, unveiled last year, features 63 horological complications including a Chinese perpetual calendar displaying the complex lunisolar cycle. But while this represents 22 more complications than those boasted by its latest creation, pocket watches can be considerably larger than wristwatches. At 45 millimeters (1.8 inches), the new Solaria Ultra Grand Complication's case is less than half the diameter of the Berkley's. As such, the design challenge was also about fitting the watch's functions into a case small enough to be comfortably worn on the wrist, according to Vacheron Constantin's style and heritage director, Christian Selmoni. In a press release describing the wristwatch as a 'feat of miniaturization,' Selmoni said the brand's horologists had arranged tiny components in the 'most logical and compact way possible.' 'The main objective was to bring together all the main complications, timekeeping, calendar, chronograph and chiming, on a single base plate and to concentrate the astronomical functions on an additional plate,' he is quoted saying. 'Thanks to this construction, it was possible to create a wristwatch with harmonious proportions.'
