The Wind Up – Watch News #331
From dive watches and sports timepieces to the latest in classy dress watches and grand complications, the last few weeks have offered no shortage of stand-out announcements. What's more, it isn't over yet. This week, the world's biggest watchmakers—and a few budding independents—kept the good vibes rolling. In this latest instalment, we'll be featuring some of the coolest new watches, including pieces from the likes of Vacheron Constantin, Breguet and Glashütte Original. Happy reading, fellas, and I hope you have a great week ahead.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface | Image: Vacehron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface
Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin Model: Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface
Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface Reference: Ref. 9750C/000R-215C
Ref. 9750C/000R-215C Diameter: 45m
45m Thickness: 16.40mm
16.40mm Material : Pink gold
: Pink gold Movement: Calibre 2757 S
Calibre 2757 S Power Reserve: 58 hours
58 hours Price: Piece unique
Vacheron Constantin is at its very best when it explores high-complication watchmaking, and in the case of the Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface, we have yet another absolute masterpiece. Ridiculously complicated and bursting at the seams with unique functionality and design elements, the piece unique features a tourbillon, a minute repeater, and a rattrapante, alongside the usual time-telling indicators and a power reserve.
According to Vacheron Constantin, the latest grand complication comprises around 700 individual components, making it one of the most complex (and ultimately hefty) timepieces ever produced by the Maison. Best of all, the stunning calibre 2757 S is revealed through the sapphire dial and the sapphire back of the 45mm 5N pink gold (750/1000) case. According to Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin, the combination of functions, minute repeater, chronograph and tourbillon, is very rare in wristwatches, essentially for reasons of volume and precision.
'More usually, in grand complication wristwatches, we see minute repeaters associated with perpetual calendars,' Selmoni said. 'That configuration certainly requires a great deal of expertise but the chronograph, with its clutch and column-wheel system, which on this piece is duplicated for the rattrapante, is an even bigger issue in terms of miniaturisation.'
The Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface is perhaps the ultimate expression of true haute horlogerie, and in this beautifully warm pink gold guise, there really is nothing like it. Immensely complicated, immensely exclusive and equally as immensely expensive, the Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface is just supreme.
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral | Image: Breguet
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral
Brand: Breguet
Breguet Model: Classique Tourbillon Sidéral
Classique Tourbillon Sidéral Reference Number: 7255BH/2Y/9VU
7255BH/2Y/9VU Diameter: 38mm
38mm Thickness: 10.20mm
10.20mm Material : Breguet gold
: Breguet gold Water Resistance: 30 metres
30 metres Movement: Calibre 187M1
Calibre 187M1 Power Reserve: 50 hours
50 hours Price: CHF190,000 (Limited to 50 pieces)
Much like Vacheron Constantin, iconic watchmaker Breguet continues to expand on its illustrious history through its enviable high-watchmaking prowess. The Classique Tourbillon Sidéral continues the Maison's 250th anniversary celebrations and once again serves as the perfect reminder of the underlying technical brilliance that is Breguet. This time around, however, there is a brand-first.
The Classique Tourbillon Sidéral is, somewhat surprisingly, the brand's very first flying tourbillon model. The original tourbillon movement was famously pioneered by the maison's founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, in 1801, so it does seem shocking that it's taken over 200 years for Breguet to work on a floating iteration. Thankfully, it was well worth the wait.
Perched inside an elegant cage on the dial face, the complex mechanism differs from its traditional counterparts through the absence of an upper bar. It thus appears suspended in space as if untethered to the laws of gravity. As our own Jacob OSborn wrote on its release, this particular iteration goes one step further by eschewing a pivot at the top to anchor all the support at the base, resulting in better balance and improved adjustability.
Limited to just 50 units worldwide and paired with a beautiful aventurine enamel dial, the Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral is perhaps the watchmaker's most triumphant celebration yet. The combination of the deep blue dial paired with the warmth of the Breguet gold case and dial accents makes for a stunning aesthetic. Spectacular.
Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon | Image: Glashütte Original
Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon
Brand: Glashütte Original
Glashütte Original Model: PanoLunarTourbillon
PanoLunarTourbillon Reference: Ref. 1-93-03-01-03-xx
Ref. 1-93-03-01-03-xx Diameter: 40mm
40mm Thickness: 12.70mm
12.70mm Material : Platinum
: Platinum Water Resistance: 50 metres
50 metres Movement: Calibre 93-03
Calibre 93-03 Power Reserve: 60 hours
60 hours Price: €125,000 (Limited to 50 pieces)
Last but certainly not least, this week is the new PanoLunarTourbillon from Glashütte Original. This new limited edition variant of the much-loved timepiece sports some beautiful aesthetic changes to the dial and case, however, still features that stunning flying-tourbillon in the bottom left quadrant of the dial.
This time around, Glashütte Original has eschewed the traditional gold case in favour of something slightly more dazzling. The 40mm platinum design is lovingly finished with a mixture of polished and brushed textures, creating a refined and dynamic aesthetic that feels innately premium. Admittedly, as the 47mm lug-to-lug measurements might indicate, this PanoLunarTourbillon is no small number, but what it lacks in subtlety, it makes up for in stellar design and functionality.
The German watchmaker has fitted this latest release with the new calibre 93.03; a movement that powers a stunning moonphase complication, the iconic Panorama Date (which uses two separate discs on a single level) and a much-coveted flying tourbillon. And then, of course, there is the dial.
For this, Glashütte has introduced a special galvanic treatment to create a rich and textured salmon hue. The main section is grained, while the hours and minutes have a snailed texture, which works to add a certain level of depth to the piece. The result is a watch that is already super appealing, made that much more intriguing.
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue | Image: Armin Strom
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue
Brand: Armin Strom
Armin Strom Model: Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue
Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue Reference: Ref. ST24-GEF.BLU
Ref. ST24-GEF.BLU Diameter: 41mm
41mm Thickness: 12.65mm
12.65mm Material : Stainless steel
: Stainless steel Water Resistance: 30 metres
30 metres Movement: Calibre ASB19
Calibre ASB19 Power Reserve: 72 hours
72 hours Price: CHF27,500 (Limited production of 25 pieces per year)
From Armin Strom, we have the latest version of its esteemed Gravity Equal Force Ultimate, this time with an icy blue look. Inspired by the cool glacial lakes and Alpine light found in Switzerland, the Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue boasts all of the same tell-tale signs that are very much becoming of its flagship status, aside from some small, visceral changes.
The first is a blue PVD main plate complete with a guilloché pattern and a lovely blue nubuck leather strap. From there, you'll also spy a horizontal clutch and a compact micro-rotor within the watch's architecture. These additions, visible from the dial side, not only provide constant force timekeeping but do wonders for the unique timepiece's aesthetic credentials. The Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue isn't an evolutionary update; rather, it expands on a collection that is already super successful and adds some more variation to the family.
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Man of Many
12-07-2025
- Man of Many
The Wind Up – Watch News #331
Welcome back to The Wind Up, our weekly series highlighting the newest watches of the past seven days, and what a week it has been! Alongside a suite of stunning new high-complication models from the world's biggest and brightest watchmakers, there were a few surprise announcements that landed this week. From dive watches and sports timepieces to the latest in classy dress watches and grand complications, the last few weeks have offered no shortage of stand-out announcements. What's more, it isn't over yet. This week, the world's biggest watchmakers—and a few budding independents—kept the good vibes rolling. In this latest instalment, we'll be featuring some of the coolest new watches, including pieces from the likes of Vacheron Constantin, Breguet and Glashütte Original. Happy reading, fellas, and I hope you have a great week ahead. Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface | Image: Vacehron Constantin Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface Brand: Vacheron Constantin Vacheron Constantin Model: Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface Reference: Ref. 9750C/000R-215C Ref. 9750C/000R-215C Diameter: 45m 45m Thickness: 16.40mm 16.40mm Material : Pink gold : Pink gold Movement: Calibre 2757 S Calibre 2757 S Power Reserve: 58 hours 58 hours Price: Piece unique Vacheron Constantin is at its very best when it explores high-complication watchmaking, and in the case of the Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface, we have yet another absolute masterpiece. Ridiculously complicated and bursting at the seams with unique functionality and design elements, the piece unique features a tourbillon, a minute repeater, and a rattrapante, alongside the usual time-telling indicators and a power reserve. According to Vacheron Constantin, the latest grand complication comprises around 700 individual components, making it one of the most complex (and ultimately hefty) timepieces ever produced by the Maison. Best of all, the stunning calibre 2757 S is revealed through the sapphire dial and the sapphire back of the 45mm 5N pink gold (750/1000) case. According to Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin, the combination of functions, minute repeater, chronograph and tourbillon, is very rare in wristwatches, essentially for reasons of volume and precision. 'More usually, in grand complication wristwatches, we see minute repeaters associated with perpetual calendars,' Selmoni said. 'That configuration certainly requires a great deal of expertise but the chronograph, with its clutch and column-wheel system, which on this piece is duplicated for the rattrapante, is an even bigger issue in terms of miniaturisation.' The Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface is perhaps the ultimate expression of true haute horlogerie, and in this beautifully warm pink gold guise, there really is nothing like it. Immensely complicated, immensely exclusive and equally as immensely expensive, the Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface is just supreme. Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral | Image: Breguet Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral Brand: Breguet Breguet Model: Classique Tourbillon Sidéral Classique Tourbillon Sidéral Reference Number: 7255BH/2Y/9VU 7255BH/2Y/9VU Diameter: 38mm 38mm Thickness: 10.20mm 10.20mm Material : Breguet gold : Breguet gold Water Resistance: 30 metres 30 metres Movement: Calibre 187M1 Calibre 187M1 Power Reserve: 50 hours 50 hours Price: CHF190,000 (Limited to 50 pieces) Much like Vacheron Constantin, iconic watchmaker Breguet continues to expand on its illustrious history through its enviable high-watchmaking prowess. The Classique Tourbillon Sidéral continues the Maison's 250th anniversary celebrations and once again serves as the perfect reminder of the underlying technical brilliance that is Breguet. This time around, however, there is a brand-first. The Classique Tourbillon Sidéral is, somewhat surprisingly, the brand's very first flying tourbillon model. The original tourbillon movement was famously pioneered by the maison's founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, in 1801, so it does seem shocking that it's taken over 200 years for Breguet to work on a floating iteration. Thankfully, it was well worth the wait. Perched inside an elegant cage on the dial face, the complex mechanism differs from its traditional counterparts through the absence of an upper bar. It thus appears suspended in space as if untethered to the laws of gravity. As our own Jacob OSborn wrote on its release, this particular iteration goes one step further by eschewing a pivot at the top to anchor all the support at the base, resulting in better balance and improved adjustability. Limited to just 50 units worldwide and paired with a beautiful aventurine enamel dial, the Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral is perhaps the watchmaker's most triumphant celebration yet. The combination of the deep blue dial paired with the warmth of the Breguet gold case and dial accents makes for a stunning aesthetic. Spectacular. Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon | Image: Glashütte Original Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon Brand: Glashütte Original Glashütte Original Model: PanoLunarTourbillon PanoLunarTourbillon Reference: Ref. 1-93-03-01-03-xx Ref. 1-93-03-01-03-xx Diameter: 40mm 40mm Thickness: 12.70mm 12.70mm Material : Platinum : Platinum Water Resistance: 50 metres 50 metres Movement: Calibre 93-03 Calibre 93-03 Power Reserve: 60 hours 60 hours Price: €125,000 (Limited to 50 pieces) Last but certainly not least, this week is the new PanoLunarTourbillon from Glashütte Original. This new limited edition variant of the much-loved timepiece sports some beautiful aesthetic changes to the dial and case, however, still features that stunning flying-tourbillon in the bottom left quadrant of the dial. This time around, Glashütte Original has eschewed the traditional gold case in favour of something slightly more dazzling. The 40mm platinum design is lovingly finished with a mixture of polished and brushed textures, creating a refined and dynamic aesthetic that feels innately premium. Admittedly, as the 47mm lug-to-lug measurements might indicate, this PanoLunarTourbillon is no small number, but what it lacks in subtlety, it makes up for in stellar design and functionality. The German watchmaker has fitted this latest release with the new calibre 93.03; a movement that powers a stunning moonphase complication, the iconic Panorama Date (which uses two separate discs on a single level) and a much-coveted flying tourbillon. And then, of course, there is the dial. For this, Glashütte has introduced a special galvanic treatment to create a rich and textured salmon hue. The main section is grained, while the hours and minutes have a snailed texture, which works to add a certain level of depth to the piece. The result is a watch that is already super appealing, made that much more intriguing. Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue | Image: Armin Strom Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue Brand: Armin Strom Armin Strom Model: Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue Reference: Ref. Ref. Diameter: 41mm 41mm Thickness: 12.65mm 12.65mm Material : Stainless steel : Stainless steel Water Resistance: 30 metres 30 metres Movement: Calibre ASB19 Calibre ASB19 Power Reserve: 72 hours 72 hours Price: CHF27,500 (Limited production of 25 pieces per year) From Armin Strom, we have the latest version of its esteemed Gravity Equal Force Ultimate, this time with an icy blue look. Inspired by the cool glacial lakes and Alpine light found in Switzerland, the Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue boasts all of the same tell-tale signs that are very much becoming of its flagship status, aside from some small, visceral changes. The first is a blue PVD main plate complete with a guilloché pattern and a lovely blue nubuck leather strap. From there, you'll also spy a horizontal clutch and a compact micro-rotor within the watch's architecture. These additions, visible from the dial side, not only provide constant force timekeeping but do wonders for the unique timepiece's aesthetic credentials. The Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue isn't an evolutionary update; rather, it expands on a collection that is already super successful and adds some more variation to the family.
Man of Many
03-07-2025
- Man of Many
Breguet's First-Ever Flying Tourbillon is a ‘Mysterious' Ode to the Master
By Jacob Osborn - News Published: 3 Jul 2025 Share Copy Link Readtime: 5 min Every product is carefully selected by our editors and experts. If you buy from a link, we may earn a commission. Learn more. For more information on how we test products, click here. Iconic watchmaker Breguet has announced the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 , the fourth chapter in its 250th anniversary celebrations. , the fourth chapter in its 250th anniversary celebrations. The release date, the 26th of June 2025, is in homage to the 26th of June 1801, when Abraham-Louis Breguet obtained a patent for his invention of the tourbillon . . Limited to just 50 timepieces, the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 represents the first Breguet model to feature a 'flying tourbillon'. We love ourselves a great mystery and a great timepiece, and Breguet has delivered both in its latest anniversary watch. Visually stunning at first sight, the latest Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 also emanates with historical significance, astronomical implications, and mechanical brilliance. Its release date of 26 June 2025 marks 224 years since the tourbillon mechanism was patented by founder Abraham-Louis Breguet himself. To honour this enduring benchmark, the watchmaker has introduced its first-ever flying tourbillon, complete with a 'mysterious' design that was years in the making. Breguet was founded in 1775, and so the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 arrives on the watchmaker's 250th anniversary while simultaneously commemorating the original tourbillon patent. Not only does it represent the brand's first flying tourbillon, but also their first use of aventurine enamel on the dial. The unique enamel pays tribute to astronomy and early observations of the starry night sky, with a celestial sparkle that adorns an otherwise deep blue dial face. Call it the perfect touch of subtle detail on the transfixing display, and a deft reminder of the founder's astronomical fixations. Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 Ref. 7255BH/2Y/9VU | Image: Supplied Indeed, the very word 'Sidéral' loosely translates to 'related to the stars or constellations,' and draws upon astronomical timekeeping (based not on the sun but the fixed position of the stars). The watch further corresponds with astronomy through its use of a tourbillon. In the 17th century, mathematician Blaise Pascal expanded upon the meaning of tourbillon to describe a 'material system animated with rotational motion,' applying the concept to planetary systems. In the horological realm, the tourbillon remains directly linked to astronomy, even as it continues to evolve. And now we arrive at the flying tourbillon itself, as presented on Breguet's new anniversary release. Perched inside an elegant cage on the dial face, the complex mechanism differs from its traditional counterparts through the absence of an upper bar. It thus appears suspended in space as if untethered to the laws of gravity. Breguet CEO Gregory Kissling | Image: Breguet This particular iteration goes one step further by eschewing a pivot at the top to anchor all the support at the base, resulting in better balance and improved adjustability. Meanwhile, the lower support system is made of sapphire glass with an anti-reflective coating, rendering the point of contact between the gears and carriage invisible to enhance the suspended effect. Gaze upon this feat of engineering and behold a tourbillon that appears to be truly flying in place, something Breguet CEO Gregory Kissling marks as a true brand-first. 'It is, quite simply, the very first time in Breguet's history that a flying tourbillon is being introduced. A beautiful way to celebrate its 224th anniversary,' Kissling said. 'And the tourbillon model we chose to reinterpret is no ordinary one: among the tourbillon movements in Breguet's archives, it is the one used in the very first Breguet tourbillon wristwatch, unveiled in 1990 under reference 3350. 'Invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, the tourbillon remains one of the most complex complications in watchmaking. Its mastery embodies the technical excellence to which the House of Breguet has remained faithful for more than two centuries,' the Breguet CEO continued. 'The Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 thus pays homage to that iconic timepiece and to the master's invention. I would even go so far as to say that this creation is an ode to the tourbillon itself, where time indication is almost secondary…' Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 Ref. 7255BH/2Y/9VU | Image: Supplied Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 Ref. 7255BH/2Y/9VU | Image: Supplied Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 Ref. 7255BH/2Y/9VU | Image: Supplied Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 Ref. 7255BH/2Y/9VU | Image: Supplied Over two centuries after A.-L. Breguet patented the tourbillon mechanism, his namesake manufacture carries forth his vision of supreme robustness and accuracy. It took the watchmaker years to master the 'mysterious' complication that debuts on the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255, which cranks up the flying effect. Combine that with a slew of superlative materials and details – including 18K Breguet gold elements, a handmade guilloché case back, and the aforementioned aventurine enamel dial – and you're looking at a masterpiece on multiple fronts. Some things go beyond mere words, no matter how much we attempt to describe them. The celestial universe around us is one. Breguet's Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 is another. Limited to just 50 units, it's available for approximately USD$226,000. Buy us one, will you? Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 Ref. 7255BH/2Y/9VU | Image: Supplied Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 Ref. 7255BH/2Y/9VU Brand : Breguet : Breguet Model : Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 : Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 Reference : Ref. 7255BH/2Y/9VU : Ref. 7255BH/2Y/9VU Diameter : 38mm : 38mm Thickness : 10.2mm : 10.2mm Movement : Hand-wound Calibre 187M1 : Hand-wound Calibre 187M1 Power Reserve : 50 hours : 50 hours Availability : Limited to 50 pieces : Limited to 50 pieces Price: USD$226,000
AU Financial Review
01-07-2025
- AU Financial Review
Can this new CEO revive one of the world's oldest watch brands?
Gregory Kissling is an ultra-marathon runner. For five years, the Breguet CEO competed in the Bieler Lauftage, a 100-kilometre race in Switzerland, persisting until he finally nailed his goal of finishing in under 10 hours. 'You really need to have this mindset to never give up,' he says, sitting in Breguet's giant boutique in the Xintiandi area of Shanghai. The same attitude, he insists, is necessary when developing innovations in watchmaking. 'It's never easy and you fail many times, but you have to keep trying.' Having started his role at Breguet last year, Kissling's determination will surely be tested again as he attempts to revive the brand's fortunes.
