05-07-2025
Where to eat, stay and play in Koh Samui, Thailand
EAT
Souper dooper Southern Thai dishes are spicier and, by consensus, more delicious than those of the north. Test the theory in a poolside booth at Pak Tai (at The Ritz-Carlton, see right). Chilli fiends love its fiery tom yum (Thai soup with prawns, lemongrass and lime, above) and 12-hour slow-cooked beef massaman with sticky rice. The price doesn't leave a bad taste, either: mains start at £20.
Seafood, eat food Fish House (kimpton on the northeast tip of Samui, is a must for seafood fans. It's twice Michelin-recommended, yet even the most-hyped dish – moules frites à la clam, fished mere metres from where you sit – is just £15. Leave space for the banana & smoke (£6; coconut mousse and caramelised banana) and a £5.50 (only!) Strawberry Salty Dog cocktail with vodka and fresh grapefruit.
STAY
Laid-back luxe Set on a sprawling former coconut plantation, The Ritz-Carlton, Koh Samui (above, doubles from £300, is the island's largest resort. Suites and huts are swanky – the sea-view villas with private pools are honeymoon heaven, all neutral interiors and local art. There are reams of free activities (especially for little ones), from garland-making to Muay Thai boxing classes and a fish-feeding experience at the hotel's artificial swim-reef.
Cheap and cheerful On the east coast, Crystal Bay Beach Resort ( has idyllic views over the Gulf of Thailand. With large outdoor swimming pools and relaxed, air-conditioned rooms, it's unbelievably good value: a villa for four starts at £82 a night. The huge breakfast is £8 extra, but at that price who's counting?
Shop then flop In northern Samui's Bophut, Fisherman's Village is a hubbub of food joints, bars and shops. Buy souvenir carved coconut bowls and mango sticky rice, then loll over cocktails (£6) and pizza (£10) around a beach table at Rice x de Pier (
Culture fix Rising 15 metres over northern Samui's Wat Plai Laem Buddhist Temple, the statue of Chinese goddess Guanyin (above) is a must-see – just avoid visiting at midday as there's little shade from the 35-degree heat.
Animal magic Thailand is heaving with dodgy zoos luring tourists. But Samui Elephant Sanctuary ( tours from £60) is a best-practice welfare organisation helping elephants rescued from enslavement in the tourism industry. Feed and observe the free-roaming giants, knowing everything's above board.
