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Fashion United
6 days ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion United
Lidewij Edelkoort: Fashion becomes conventional
'Convention is becoming very important,' Edelkoort shared about AW26/27, speaking with wonder on her own appreciation for 'very conventional clothing'. A photo featuring a pleated high-collar blouse; a classic, fine-knit crew neck jumper; and a pearl necklace, is among her favourite images from her presentation, alongside a cute cat picture. 'Streetwear disappeared almost overnight,' said Edelkoort, switching to English specifically for the handful of international attendees to ensure her message was understood. 'The sneaker became a moccasin. The t-shirt became the shirt. The blouson became the blazer.' What has already taken place in streetwear will now influence the rest of fashion. 'A hoodie will at some point no longer be marketable, and be careful with trainers too,' she warned the audience. Edelkoort calls the shift towards traditional and conservative styles 'a new and exciting moment' for the clothing sector. She shared that she is genuinely enjoying fashion again for the first time in a long time. Edelkoort is particularly enthusiastic about the 'ground-breaking' menswear. Few trousers and many shorts are seen in the new collections from designers and fashion houses: bloomer-like models and other examples with strikingly short legs. 'Just as skirt length once said something about the economy, I wonder if the shortness of men's trousers today says something about our times,' she remarked. She calls Jonathan Anderson's white and pink shorts for Dior Men downright desirable. Menswear: Wooyoungmi SS26 - Menswear, Saint Laurent SS26, Dior Men SS26 (white shorts) and Taaak SS26 Menswear & Moccasins by Juun J. SS26 Menswear. Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight Fashion designers are already convincingly demonstrating that conventional clothing is not frumpy when humour is added to the designs, says Edelkoort. She also points out the importance of solid construction: how a garment is put together, or technical craftsmanship. Workwear becomes an independent category in fashion Good construction is another important aspect of workwear-inspired fashion. Workwear is on the verge of a breakthrough and will become a fully-fledged category within fashion, according to Edelkoort. Moreover, it is a trend that could do particularly well in the Netherlands, due to its down-to-earth, practical character. Think of garments like dungarees or trousers with loops to hold a hammer. Or a minimalist knitted turtleneck from The Row and a clean, brushed jacket with a concealed zip and sturdy seams, as Edelkoort's presentation images show. Again, the power lies in simplicity and craftsmanship. The silhouettes are slightly architectural and/or industrial. The colours are light and utilitarian. Wool and cotton are key fabrics, and denim can be added to the styling. 'With a well-coordinated workwear outfit, such as a jacket and matching trousers, an alternative to a classic suit can even be created,' says Edelkoort. Workwear for illustration. Études SS26 - Menswear (2x), Scye AW25 Ready to Wear and Victoria Beckham AW25 Ready to Wear. Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight Wool, fur and animalistic prints Sheep, and especially their wool, will play a prominent role in next year's winter season. 'Wool is a fibre with amazing properties and a material that we actually always underestimate. Did you know, for example, that you can wear it in the summer, as people used to do, or that when you wash wool it looks just like linen?' In terms of materials, 'everything will be woolly': from alpaca and mohair to bouclé and hairy textures. We are going to see coarse, heavy knits and literally wear sheepskin. The sheep can also serve as inspiration for silhouettes, as Edelkoort demonstrates with an editorial photo: a woman in a meadow dressed in a large men's checked tweed coat and a romantic white knitted bonnet. Next to it, we see a photo of a sheep with an enormous, dark, woolly fleece and a small, light-coloured head. The resemblance is striking. The colour chart for AW26/27 features undyed wool or shades inspired by it, such as natural, greyish hues, complemented by accent tones like aubergine and brown. Ermanno Scerviono AW25 Ready to wear, two stock photos Pexels (wool and sheep), The Knitwit Stable credit Dana van Marel (from the FashionUnited archive), Litkovska AW25 Ready to Wear & Undercover AW25 Ready to wear, Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight At the same time, leopard prints are not going anywhere. Leopard print, put on the map in the 1970s and permanently featured in the collections of fashion houses like Dolce & Gabbana, is now just as classic as the polka dot, Edelkoort believes. This print lends itself particularly well to hosiery and other accessories such as gloves. Reptile prints, such as fish or snakeskin, will also become very important in winter 2025. We are also going to see a lot of fur, 'even in the summer'. Animal prints: Duran Lantink AW25 (3x) the hosiery and gloves photo, Gabriela Hearst AW25 Ready to Wear handbag in python print, Dolce&Gabbana SS26 Menswear & Dolce & Gabbana AW25 menswear and Kenzo SS26 Menswear hairy cow print trousers. Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight Grey becomes trendy again 'Grey is making a comeback,' says Edelkoort. 'This while the colour was in fashion only recently, and now beige, brown and brick are dominant.' Grey takes on a rational, chic character in perfectly cut trousers, herringbone coats and knitwear. She also calls the colour chic for details, such as a grey sock combined with 'a heel', a pair of long gloves or knitted underwear to go out in (à la Miu Miu). Edelkoort thinks we will see grey return in richer shades, for example with a hint of green or blue. 'You can do all sorts of things between grey and brown, by the way,' the trend guru adds. Moreover, the combination no longer clashes, just as black and navy can now be worn together. Grey is making a comeback. From left to right, top to bottom: Street Fashion AW24 Ready to Wear, Victoria Beckham AW25 - Ready to Wear, N°21 AW25 - Ready to Wear. Michael Kors AW25 Ready to Wear, TWP AW25 - Ready to Wear and Gauchere AW25 - Ready to Wear. Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight More trend colours for AW26/27: Pink and red , once accent colours, are now considered neutral colours according to Edelkoort and remain important. Pink is moving towards violet. and , once accent colours, are now considered neutral colours according to Edelkoort and remain important. Pink is moving towards violet. Light blue is, according to Edelkoort, a positive, activist colour with a unique connecting power. Combined with other colours (such as primary colours red, yellow and blue), light blue creates a new look. She recommends including light blue as standard in collections 'because it can make anything that might be dull, fun'. is, according to Edelkoort, a positive, activist colour with a unique connecting power. Combined with other colours (such as primary colours red, yellow and blue), light blue creates a new look. She recommends including light blue as standard in collections 'because it can make anything that might be dull, fun'. Soft pastel colours from the fantasy world retain a permanent place, fuelled by the romantic style of several fashion houses. from the fantasy world retain a permanent place, fuelled by the romantic style of several fashion houses. Also bright, saturated colours , such as expressive yellow, stem from the Fauvism painting movement. These shades are not loud, but are distinctly present and lend themselves well to patterns and jacquard knitwear. , such as expressive yellow, stem from the Fauvism painting movement. These shades are not loud, but are distinctly present and lend themselves well to patterns and jacquard knitwear. Furthermore, there are camouflage-like shades and more intense colours that originate from the animal kingdom: think of colour gradients like those of a chameleon, feathers with iridescent petrol hues and pixelated blues reminiscent of insect eyes. For AW26/27, Edelkoort also signals the rise of a protective clothing style with a defensive look, 'almost bulletproof'. In a world where uncertainty and threat are palpable, we need an increasingly thicker 'armour', she believes. Appropriate garments within this trend are one-suits such as overalls. She also shows many outfits with military influences, space travel or Eskimo-inspired elements for going on expeditions. The puffer jacket is going to become much more extreme and voluminous, like the over-the-top padded coats from Moncler. Materials underline the feeling of protection: fabrics are layered, with double or even triple constructions, Edelkoort explains. Also think of coated materials, felt and water-repellent fabrics. Colour trends that fit this trend are metals such as bronze, rusted colours and faded, washed-out colours (think of a well-loved teddy bear). Old metal and ornamental details reminiscent of armour also fit in with this protective aesthetic. Armour trend for illustration: Kidsstudios AW25 Ready to Wear (3x), Emporio Armani SS26 Menswear, Rains AW25 Ready to Wear, Cecilie Bahnsen AW25 Ready to Wear, Kolor SS26 Menswear, Kidill AW25 Menswear and Yuima Nakazato AW25 - Haute Couture (3x) Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight Finally Trends do not change quickly, but very gradually, Edelkoort reassuringly emphasises. For example, about 14 years ago, she put together a neutral colour palette inspired by the grains at grocers in Morocco. We now see that palette reflected in the trend colour beige, which was widely worn by the public. A second example is the return of the low-rise jeans, a development that, according to her, took perhaps 15 years. It often takes years for a trend to really break through, and that, according to Edelkoort, is good news: 'it means you don't have to rush'. TikTok hypes are so fleeting that it is better for most companies not to pay attention to them. 'You are by definition too late if you spot it and still have to get on board,' Edelkoort explains. It is better to stick to what you do and what works for you. Is a striped blouse a bestseller? Make new variations of it, for example one with different stripes or a contrasting insert, she advises. That shows you dare, attracts attention and strengthens your main products, just like manufacturer Philips once demonstrated: its orange vacuum cleaner helped sell the blue ones. This recommendation ties in with Edelkoort's broader vision, in which authenticity is central – something she considers essential in times when everything seems to be going wrong. She introduces the concept of favor for this: an attitude characterised by care, thoughtfulness and human scale. This is diametrically opposed to the rushed and superficial way of working that is often the norm in the fashion world, and beyond. She advises designers and brands to constantly ask themselves, with everything they make, whether it actually adds value and truly has a right to exist. It is precisely this authenticity, she argues, that can provide direction in a time of uncertainty. Modefabriek De Taets Zaandam (Modefabriek press image) Credits: Ilsoo van Dijk Sources: - The trend seminar 'Animalism' and 'Instincts' by Lidewij Edelkoort at Modefabriek, Monday, July 8, 2025. - AI tools were used as writing aids. This article was translated to English using an AI tool. FashionUnited uses AI language tools to speed up translating (news) articles and proofread the translations to improve the end result. This saves our human journalists time they can spend doing research and writing original articles. Articles translated with the help of AI are checked and edited by a human desk editor prior to going online. If you have questions or comments about this process email us at info@
Yahoo
14-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Rihanna's Two Sons Make a Surprise Red Carpet Debut—In Dior Men, No Less
RZA and Riot, the two sons of Rihanna and A$AP Rocky, made their joint red carpet debut together on July 13 at the L.A. premiere of Smurfs. Rihanna not only stars in the movie as the voice of Smurfette, but she also recorded a song for the film's soundtrack. Rihanna is currently pregnant with her third child, who she has said definitively will also have a name that begins with an 'R.'Rihanna and A$AP Rocky's two sons RZA, 3, and Riot, 23 months, had a big Sunday night alongside their glamorous mother. The two boys also marked a milestone on July 13 as they attended the Smurfs premiere in Los Angeles: it was the first time that the two jointly attended a red carpet together. Dressed in Dior Men, the two were on the arm of Rihanna, who voices Smurfette in the movie (which comes out July 18). A highlight of the evening on Sunday? RZA and Riot got the chance to meet Papa Smurf. Rihanna, of course, is currently expecting her third child with A$AP Rocky, revealed at the Met Gala back in May. She, too, made a fashion-forward appearance on the red carpet, wearing a chocolate brown Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello look with a lingerie-inspired lace-trim top and ball gown-style skirt, which she paired with a matching leather jacket. At the Smurfs premiere in Brussels, Belgium on June 28, Rihanna had Rocky on her arm; for that occasion, she wore a Chanel ensemble that accentuated her baby bump. At that same premiere, Rihanna told Entertainment Tonight that, when it comes to their third child (or, it seems, any child thereafter, should that be the case), 'It's always going to be an 'R' name,' she said. 'That's the one thing me and Rocky don't fight over.' Rocky seemed to take details about the family's new addition a step further, hinting to Entertainment Tonight that he and Rihanna are expecting a baby girl: 'Is that the girl you've been waiting for?' co-host Kevin Frazier asked the rapper, to which Rocky responded, 'It is, man, it is.' In a quick-on-his-feet save, Rocky then held up a Smurfette toy—who Rihanna plays in the film—and added, 'Right here, right here,' to which Frazier replied, 'You know what I'm asking!' as Rocky laughed. 'Rihanna and Rocky couldn't be more thrilled to be growing their family again with baby number three,' a source told People. 'They've really embraced this chapter, and their bond has only deepened since becoming parents.' The rapper 'has been incredibly attentive and nurturing throughout this pregnancy,' the insider added. 'He's so hands-on with RZA and Riot, changing diapers, doing bedtime routines, and keeping them entertained so Rihanna can rest. He's completely tuned into her needs.' This includes 'bringing her late night cravings when she's in the mood or creating little ways for her to unwind,' they added. 'He'll run her baths, massage her feet, and take care of things around the house so she doesn't have to lift a finger.' 'This pregnancy feels especially meaningful because they've grown so much together as partners and parents,' the source continued, adding that 'Rocky is Rihanna's biggest cheerleader. He always makes her laugh—he keeps things light and full of love. They both prioritize their family time above everything, and it's clear this is what matters most to them.' Read the original article on InStyle
Yahoo
01-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Attending the Dior Men Show With Sam Nivola
'The White Lotus' breakout star Sam Nivola was among the guests invited to be on hand for Jonathan Anderson's much-anticipated Dior Men runway debut. ' It's been really cool getting to sort of joyride in the fashion world,' says Nivola on Friday from Paris, shortly after the show. 'I don't know very much about fashion or about fashion history. I'm learning so much, so quickly; it's a whole new art form.' More from WWD Sabrina Carpenter Goes Classic in Pleated Skirt and Satin Peep-toe Louboutin Pumps Dior Homme's Spring 2026 Show Jonathan Anderson's Dior Debut Draws Daniel Craig, Robert Pattinson, TXT and Rihanna Summer 2025 Fashion: City Escape The actor and the designer have become 'fast friends,' and Nivola lavished praise upon the collection. 'I'm so proud and impressed, because it's a momentous thing. This is a big deal. And he did such a good job, and the clothes are amazing. They're just gorgeous and beautiful and everyone looks amazing in them.' Speaking of the clothes, Nivola attended the show dressed in a white cable knit sweater embroidered with pink tulips, white cargo shorts, a pearl necklace with floral charms and pink sunglasses and suede sneakers. ' I love classic clothes,' said Nivola, describing the collection as an 'amazing renaissance of the brand.' 'Jonathan's style matches mine really perfectly, because it's timeless. It's clothes that look beautiful, and an homage to the '60s and to this old world of Dior that values elegance and class, over making a statement about nothing.' Ahead of the show, Dior released a short editorial video clip starring Nivola. In it, the actor lounges in a sunny field of wildflowers at Versailles, dandelion in hand, outfitted in a Dior-embroidered sweater and accessories. ' We were shooting in The Queen's Hamlet — Marie Antoinette's Hamlet — within Versailles, which is this little fake town that she had built because she felt like the palace was too grand, and she wanted to live like a normal person,' said Nivola, who filmed the clip around a month ago. 'It was gorgeous, and totally matched [Anderson's] vibe and the vibe of the clothes.' The actor was making the most of his quick trip to Paris, visiting a museum and going out to dinner around show duties. 'Sometimes when you travel to a place for a day or two for work, it's a real pain … and you just don't wanna do anything and you just wanna stay in your room — especially when the hotel is as nice as the one they put me in,' said Nivola, adding that he was currently on his hotel balcony taking in views of the Eiffel Tower. 'Something about Paris makes you really want go out and explore, even when you're jet-lagged beyond belief and just want to take a Tylenol PM.' The morning after the Dior show, Nivola was headed to the Glastonbury Festival to meet up with his girlfriend, Iris Apatow, to see some of their friends perform at the music festival. ' I'm half English, but I've never been to Glastonbury, so that's gonna be a blast,' he said. Afterward, it was back to summer in New York. 'I'm gonna try and enjoy a little break, because I've been working a lot the past few years,' said Nivola. 'I pay a lot of rent in New York, and I wanna be in my apartment for more than a week at a time. So I'll enjoy the stifling heat for a little while, and then hopefully go to work sometime in the fall.' Launch Gallery: Sam Nivola Getting Ready for the Dior Men Summer 2026 Show Best of WWD A Look Back at BET Awards Best Dressed Red Carpet Stars: Tyla, Queen Latifah and More [PHOTOS] A Look Back at the Tony Awards Best Dressed Red Carpet Stars: Liza Minnelli, Elle Fanning, Jennifer Lopez and More [PHOTOS] Maria Grazia Chiuri's Dior Through the Years: Runway, Celebrities and More [PHOTOS]

Hypebeast
28-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Hypebeast
Jonathan Anderson Is Ready to Recode the House of Dior With His Debut SS26 Men's Collection
Summary It was a breath of fresh air atDior. Ringing in a new era withJonathan Andersonat the helm of Dior, the luxury fashion label debuted a new vision under the designer with itsSpring/Summer 2026menswear collection. Showing atParis Fashion Week, Anderson began his new role at Dior with the reveal of a new but old logo change. Speaking toVogue Business, the designer commented on the importance of drawing inspiration from Dior's heritage. Anderson revealed that he first began with the Dior branding label, reaching back into the house's archives to refine the block letter aesthetic. Refining the text, he brings the old with the new, as the Irish designer attempts to rebuild the house. Expectations were high for Anderson's menswear collection as it set the tone for the future of the house of Dior. An event poised to redefine the codes of the venerable Parisian house, the industry is keenly watching how his unique blend of conceptual artistry and modern craftsmanship will intersect with Dior's storied legacy of elegance and precise tailoring. His debut collection is a play on history and affluence, as he decodes the language of the house before he attempts to recode it. While the show had a miles long attendance of A-listers, the set was a nod to the importance of art. In a room modeled to mirror the velvet-lined interiors of Berlin's Gemäldegalerie, featuring two beautiful paintings by Jean Siméon Chardin (1699-1779). An understated commentary on creating art o display, the museum room setting fuels a sense of liberation and joyfulness amongst masterpieces. Joy is brought from the art of dressing. As the collection unfolds, all eyes are on how Anderson navigates Dior's foundational principles—the New Look silhouette, the exacting tailoring, the subtle luxury—through his distinctive lens. Will we see his characteristic play with proportion and volume? How will his love for tactile, artful textures manifest within Dior's sophisticated fabrics? His past work often subverts expectations, offering garments that are both familiar and entirely novel. For Dior Men SS26, expect a collection that dialogues with history while speaking a distinctly contemporary language, setting a compelling new direction for the brand's future. Anderson reimagines the Bar Jacket in an an Irish Donegal tweed—a nod to his own heritage. A common theme in the collection saw the designer deconstruct formality, with ties worn backwards and cape-like overcoats paired with short trousers and sporty tube socks. Tuxedo shirts and waistcoats were paired with denim, with some even with silk evening scarves. Historical references are given a contemporary twist, bringing 18th and 19th-century French menswear a modern silhouette. Even accessories spoke volumes: the Dior Book Tote received a masculine makeover, featuring literary covers like Charles Baudelaire'sLes Fleurs du Maland Truman Capote'sIn Cold Blood. Smart pastel knits, round-toed CD loafers, suede logo-emblazoned slippers, and elegant sandals showcased a readiness for the market.


Elle
27-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Elle
How Jonathan Anderson's Dior Debut Delivered Boyish Charm and A-List Guests
Fashion rarely waits with bated breath. But when fellow creative directors Donatella Versace, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Stefano Pilati, Pharrell Williams, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, Glenn Martens, Silvia Venturini Fendi, Nicolas Di Felice, and Simon Porte Jacquemus show up to support your debut, it's about as close to a pause as this industry ever gets. Between the vocal support and global fanfare, one thing is abundantly clear: Jonathan Anderson's talent as a high-output and forward-thinking designer has never wavered. Since his official appointment to Dior Men in April (followed by his additional confirmation as the head of womenswear this June), the question instead is, How will he utilize a different brand to develop his skills in an entirely new way? Furthermore, which archival looks will speak to him through a near-century old repertoire of design, and how will he approach a gargantuan opportunity like the house of Dior? The position does not bring a clean slate, instead, the maison offers its history as a playground of potential for Anderson to interpret as he sees fit. Prior to the show, Anderson teased deep-cut references that demonstrated his immense research and deference to the house of Dior, inspiring the ceramic egg-filled plate invite. Other mood board images were tantalizingly released, including Andy Warhol's Polaroids of Lee Radziwill and Jean-Michel Basquiat, whose purposeful uniform of Armani suits served as a visual tool to situate himself within the narrative of Eurocentric artists. On the runway, Anderson took measure to interpret this inspiration by replicating Basquiat's subtle style eccentricities. Neckties were worn loosened and askew, collars were asymmetrically popped, and traditional white tie neckbands were dislocated from the rest of their would-be suits. A$AP Rocky, who arrived hand-in-hand with a pregnant Rihanna, sported one collar of his button-down tucked under his multi-colored striped tie—a direct homage to the polaroid Anderson shared. The collection's livestream began with a short film featuring The White Lotus's Sam Nivola and Robert Pattinson. In the clip, as on the runway, a palpable sense of boyish charm tinged with arrogant swagger presided. Anderson has frequently returned to this energy across past collections at both Loewe and his eponymous brand; however, this interpretation felt distinctly and joyously different. Oxfords layered under washed denim jackets, bubblegum-pink shrunken cable-knit sweaters paired with delicate floral jewelry, oversized chinos, and rugby shirts, evoked the underlying sense of privileged idealism with which these coming-of-age prep school boys perceive the world. This identity is timeless, too—we see it across generations of art and style, whether it be Gustave Flaubert's novel Sentimental Education, the film Withnail and I, or the pant legs tucked into the socks of young and hopeful Cambridge undergraduates as they parade across the university grounds. Formality was immediately subverted. The runway opened with Bruce Springsteen's 'State Trooper,' a surprising choice for a French house, but its punk influences echoed Anderson's non-traditional take on Dior Men. The almost Frankenstein-like opening looks consisted of disjointed suits. Structured jackets were widened and paired with oversized cargo shorts, fisherman sandals, and plenty of bare chests. Elsewhere, waistlines were cropped, adding sensuality to an otherwise traditionally prim silhouette. The more nuanced beauty of Anderson's designs lies in their openness to interpretation. As opposed to presenting a collection filled with pristine individual items, Anderson created a conversation flooded with sartorial inspiration. The boyish innocence was captured through jumpsuits and backpacks, while habitual dressing was expressed through trench coats worn without shirts, as if popping out for a stroll across the estate in the morning dew. Anderson's wearability has always been apparent, even at Loewe. No celebrity or VIP has ever appeared overdone or uneasy—proof of the clothing's uniquely translatable ease. For a debut, the pieces were undoubtedly exciting. However, as a collection, the ideas have the power to change the way we think about dressing, and that in itself captures what the true essence of fashion really is. Alexandra Hildreth is the Fashion News Editor at ELLE. She is fascinated by style trends, industry news, shake-ups, and The Real Housewives. Previously, she attended the University of St Andrews in Scotland. Following graduation, she moved back to New York City and worked as a freelance journalist and producer.