14 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Khaleej Times
Cultural appropriation or inspiration? Prada gets flak for Kolhapuris on runway
It's a straightforward comparison — even those outside the fashion world can see the parallels. On June 22, Prada unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection in Milan; two days later, Louis Vuitton showcased its own in Paris. Both featured summer-ready pieces inspired by age-old Indian garments and motifs. It's encouraging to see legacy fashion houses looking East for inspiration, expanding their design language for a global audience. But too often, this comes with spun narratives — or worse, no narrative at all. The key difference between the two? Louis Vuitton proudly and respectfully framed its show as an homage to India, explicitly labelling its S/S '26 offering as 'multi-faceted signatures of Indian sartorialism — threading a cross-cultural narrative through a contemporary wardrobe'. Meanwhile, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons of Prada lifted the Kolhapuri chappal straight from the town of Kolhapur and rebranded it as 'leather one-toe sandals', offering no credit or mention of the centuries-old Indian craft it so clearly borrowed from.
Pharrell Williams, Louis Vuitton's menswear creative director, made his influences clear. The runway was designed by celebrated Indian architect Bijoy Jain, announced boldly across the brand's social channels. Music was composed by AR Rahman. Front-row seats were filled by Indian stars like Ishaan Khatter. The show notes openly acknowledged the collection as a reflection of 'the multi-faceted sensibilities of present-day India'. 'This is acknowledgment. This is cultural exchange. This is appreciation of heritage — not appropriation,' says Sujata Assomull, launch editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar India.
The issue at hand isn't just about giving credit where it's due — though that, too, is increasingly non-negotiable in today's hyper-connected digital age. The deeper problem lies in a long-standing pattern of discrediting and rebranding by luxury houses — a habit quietly perpetuated for centuries. Prada referring to Kolhapuri chappals as 'leather one-toe sandals' isn't fashion's first fumble. From the Indian dupatta being adapted into the so-called Scandinavian scarf, the traditional dhoti to harem pants, and the 'boho' paisley mango print to rebranded Kashmiri pashmina shawls as mere 'cashmere' — these are all examples of Indian cultural staples repackaged and sold by the West with little to no cultural acknowledgment.
Inside the Collection
Prada's Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection marked a shift in tone — softer, more playful, and unmistakably relaxed. Gone were the sharp business suits. In their place: pastel-hued trousers, athletic-inspired tracksuits, and loose shorts cinched with elastic waistbands. Light blazers, glossy biker jackets, and whimsical accessories — raffia bucket hats, polished leather bags, and colour-blocked backpacks — added a sense of breezy irreverence. Footwear followed suit, favouring ease over formality: flip-flops, slender driving shoes, and open-toe leather sandals took centre stage, replacing traditional dress options. A fresh palette of mint, lemon, and powder blue breathed life into the classic greys, making the collection feel contemporary, cheerful, and unmistakably resort-ready.
The Origins of the Design
Kolhapuri chappals — awarded a Geographical Indication tag in 2019 — have been handcrafted for generations across eight districts in Maharashtra and Karnataka. Made from sun-dried buffalo hide and assembled entirely by hand, they require no synthetic materials or adhesives. Each pair is a labour of skill and tradition, often taking up to two weeks to complete. While Prada hasn't named Kolhapuris explicitly, the resemblance is hard to miss — and the omission has sparked renewed debate around cultural appropriation in luxury fashion. For some, seeing the silhouette on a global runway was a moment of overdue recognition. But in the absence of any acknowledgment — no mention of the artisans, no nod to the heritage — the gesture risks feeling hollow. Inspiration, when left uncredited, too easily slips into erasure.
The chatter around the matter
Still, its inclusion on the runway has sparked curiosity and intrigue. The sandals have been making the rounds online, with side-by-side posts and close-up comparisons drawing attention to their roots. For some, it's opened the door to deeper questions about visibility and sourcing, and what recognition can look like. The Kolhapuri chappal, a long-standing staple in Indian wardrobes, now finds itself in the spotlight. So, while its silhouette hasn't really changed, the audience has. We asked Assomull what she thinks of this move, or lack of move by Prada, and she reminds us: 'India has always been a source of inspiration for global fashion — and proudly so. At one point, British shopkeepers would label garments 'Made in India' as a mark of craft excellence. But history also reminds us how that shifted in the 1800s when Indian textile imports were banned under colonial rule. Today, brands from Dior and Hermès to Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad regularly turn to India's rich textile traditions — and most Indians take pride in this.'
'The problem arises when that inspiration isn't acknowledged,' she adds.
The debate online has left people from all over the world, feeling the same way. Fashion influencer and local crafts enthusiast Masoom Minawala took to her social media platform to point out: 'Here's the thing, referencing is easy. Respecting the roots takes more intention. Let's remember, inspiration must come with credit.'
The Lesson
Luxury brands have had their fair share of messing up — and learning from their mistakes. They've seen highs like no other industry, and lows like every other one. Over the years, each of these brands has built a loyal base of clientele, and as they continue to reshape themselves, a new generation of young consumers keeps joining the fanbase. However, the legacy of an entire brand can be washed away if mistakes like these happen one too many times.
Today's consumers are smart — they're listening, watching, and making choices that are politically and morally conscious. And rightfully so. After all these years of chiselling their craft and honing their creative direction, a luxury brand should be focusing on giving back to society — not just through CSR strategies, but by acknowledging the cultures they've borrowed from, and sharing traceability over the paths they've walked.
Host of the podcast Fashion Your Seatbelt and a regular on the front row at fashion weeks, Jessica Michault says: 'In today's social media age, there's no excuse for brands not to credit the craft or culture they draw from — especially when the inspiration is so clearly rooted in a specific style and region. Whether through a press release, at the event, or in post-show communication, acknowledging the origin is the least that should be done.'
