Cultural appropriation or inspiration? Prada gets flak for Kolhapuris on runway
It's a straightforward comparison — even those outside the fashion world can see the parallels. On June 22, Prada unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection in Milan; two days later, Louis Vuitton showcased its own in Paris. Both featured summer-ready pieces inspired by age-old Indian garments and motifs. It's encouraging to see legacy fashion houses looking East for inspiration, expanding their design language for a global audience. But too often, this comes with spun narratives — or worse, no narrative at all. The key difference between the two? Louis Vuitton proudly and respectfully framed its show as an homage to India, explicitly labelling its S/S '26 offering as 'multi-faceted signatures of Indian sartorialism — threading a cross-cultural narrative through a contemporary wardrobe'. Meanwhile, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons of Prada lifted the Kolhapuri chappal straight from the town of Kolhapur and rebranded it as 'leather one-toe sandals', offering no credit or mention of the centuries-old Indian craft it so clearly borrowed from.
Pharrell Williams, Louis Vuitton's menswear creative director, made his influences clear. The runway was designed by celebrated Indian architect Bijoy Jain, announced boldly across the brand's social channels. Music was composed by AR Rahman. Front-row seats were filled by Indian stars like Ishaan Khatter. The show notes openly acknowledged the collection as a reflection of 'the multi-faceted sensibilities of present-day India'. 'This is acknowledgment. This is cultural exchange. This is appreciation of heritage — not appropriation,' says Sujata Assomull, launch editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar India.
The issue at hand isn't just about giving credit where it's due — though that, too, is increasingly non-negotiable in today's hyper-connected digital age. The deeper problem lies in a long-standing pattern of discrediting and rebranding by luxury houses — a habit quietly perpetuated for centuries. Prada referring to Kolhapuri chappals as 'leather one-toe sandals' isn't fashion's first fumble. From the Indian dupatta being adapted into the so-called Scandinavian scarf, the traditional dhoti to harem pants, and the 'boho' paisley mango print to rebranded Kashmiri pashmina shawls as mere 'cashmere' — these are all examples of Indian cultural staples repackaged and sold by the West with little to no cultural acknowledgment.
Inside the Collection
Prada's Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection marked a shift in tone — softer, more playful, and unmistakably relaxed. Gone were the sharp business suits. In their place: pastel-hued trousers, athletic-inspired tracksuits, and loose shorts cinched with elastic waistbands. Light blazers, glossy biker jackets, and whimsical accessories — raffia bucket hats, polished leather bags, and colour-blocked backpacks — added a sense of breezy irreverence. Footwear followed suit, favouring ease over formality: flip-flops, slender driving shoes, and open-toe leather sandals took centre stage, replacing traditional dress options. A fresh palette of mint, lemon, and powder blue breathed life into the classic greys, making the collection feel contemporary, cheerful, and unmistakably resort-ready.
The Origins of the Design
Kolhapuri chappals — awarded a Geographical Indication tag in 2019 — have been handcrafted for generations across eight districts in Maharashtra and Karnataka. Made from sun-dried buffalo hide and assembled entirely by hand, they require no synthetic materials or adhesives. Each pair is a labour of skill and tradition, often taking up to two weeks to complete. While Prada hasn't named Kolhapuris explicitly, the resemblance is hard to miss — and the omission has sparked renewed debate around cultural appropriation in luxury fashion. For some, seeing the silhouette on a global runway was a moment of overdue recognition. But in the absence of any acknowledgment — no mention of the artisans, no nod to the heritage — the gesture risks feeling hollow. Inspiration, when left uncredited, too easily slips into erasure.
The chatter around the matter
Still, its inclusion on the runway has sparked curiosity and intrigue. The sandals have been making the rounds online, with side-by-side posts and close-up comparisons drawing attention to their roots. For some, it's opened the door to deeper questions about visibility and sourcing, and what recognition can look like. The Kolhapuri chappal, a long-standing staple in Indian wardrobes, now finds itself in the spotlight. So, while its silhouette hasn't really changed, the audience has. We asked Assomull what she thinks of this move, or lack of move by Prada, and she reminds us: 'India has always been a source of inspiration for global fashion — and proudly so. At one point, British shopkeepers would label garments 'Made in India' as a mark of craft excellence. But history also reminds us how that shifted in the 1800s when Indian textile imports were banned under colonial rule. Today, brands from Dior and Hermès to Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad regularly turn to India's rich textile traditions — and most Indians take pride in this.'
'The problem arises when that inspiration isn't acknowledged,' she adds.
The debate online has left people from all over the world, feeling the same way. Fashion influencer and local crafts enthusiast Masoom Minawala took to her social media platform to point out: 'Here's the thing, referencing is easy. Respecting the roots takes more intention. Let's remember, inspiration must come with credit.'
The Lesson
Luxury brands have had their fair share of messing up — and learning from their mistakes. They've seen highs like no other industry, and lows like every other one. Over the years, each of these brands has built a loyal base of clientele, and as they continue to reshape themselves, a new generation of young consumers keeps joining the fanbase. However, the legacy of an entire brand can be washed away if mistakes like these happen one too many times.
Today's consumers are smart — they're listening, watching, and making choices that are politically and morally conscious. And rightfully so. After all these years of chiselling their craft and honing their creative direction, a luxury brand should be focusing on giving back to society — not just through CSR strategies, but by acknowledging the cultures they've borrowed from, and sharing traceability over the paths they've walked.
Host of the podcast Fashion Your Seatbelt and a regular on the front row at fashion weeks, Jessica Michault says: 'In today's social media age, there's no excuse for brands not to credit the craft or culture they draw from — especially when the inspiration is so clearly rooted in a specific style and region. Whether through a press release, at the event, or in post-show communication, acknowledging the origin is the least that should be done.'
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The National
4 hours ago
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Kolhapuri chappals are now high fashion, but here's how I get real ones for a song
India's rich culture has inspired many international fashion brands over the decades. Hermes, Saint Laurent and, more recently, Gucci have all created their version of the sari. The late Karl Lagerfeld showcased pieces reminiscent of the bandhgala kurta for Chanel's autumn 2012 collection, while Jimmy Choo and Christian Louboutin footwear have featured Indian-inspired embroidery over the years. Several brands have also taken popular ethnic garments such as dupattas, Nehru jackets and turbans, and fused it with their designs. This week, as part of its spring/summer 2026 show in Milan, Prada sent out footwear that resembles the humble Kolhapuri chappal, a handcrafted tan-coloured leather sandal that can be found in almost every Indian home – and a style I have been wearing since I can remember. Kolhapuri chappals are believed to have originated around the 13th century in the city of Kolhapur in Maharashtra, where artisans and cobblers made them by hand – from cutting and shaping the cowhide leather and stitching all the pieces together, to adding colour using vegetable dyes. Known by different names across India, including paytaan and kachkadi, these sturdy sandals are an everyday staple for both men and women. The versatile style, from the classic tan and dark brown designs to ones with colourful straps, pairs well with both Indian and non-Indian outfits. They are also comfortable to wear and walk around in all day – just maybe not during the monsoons. Gold and silver-strapped versions can be worn during Diwali and on other special occasions, while colourful Kolhapuris add a fun touch to daywear, depending on your mood. Some brands also make Kolhapuris with wedge heels. I still buy handmade pieces from markets on my visits back home, such as in Old Delhi, a must-visit if a trip to India is on the cards. A plain pair costs about 800 to 1,000 rupees (up to Dh42), while an ornate pair will set you back about 1,500-1,800 rupees (up to Dh77). One of my favourite places to buy handmade Kolhapuris is Dilli Haat, in the heart of New Delhi. Here, you can find footwear with sequins and embroidery – at a fraction of the price usually charged by branded stores. While they are traditionally crafted in light tan, a pair can be made as dark as you want as the artisans add dye to it on the spot. I have also discovered other brands that have added a modern spin to this classic chappal with detailed embroidery and ornate embellishments. There are bright, fun and colourful pairs, often featuring varying colours for the sole and strap that offer a nice contrast to all the black clothes I like to wear. Many of these brands also work directly with craftswomen in villages and ship internationally, including to the UAE, with prices starting at about 3,000 rupees (Dh128). Prices for Prada's "version" have not been revealed yet, but the brand's men's sandals are typically priced from Dh3,000. While a luxury purchase often represents feel-good indulgence, for something that takes inspiration from an ancient handicraft, perhaps it's better to support artisans who have been keeping these traditions alive for hundreds of years.
Khaleej Times
8 hours ago
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Cultural appropriation or inspiration? Prada gets flak for Kolhapuris on runway
It's a straightforward comparison — even those outside the fashion world can see the parallels. On June 22, Prada unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection in Milan; two days later, Louis Vuitton showcased its own in Paris. Both featured summer-ready pieces inspired by age-old Indian garments and motifs. It's encouraging to see legacy fashion houses looking East for inspiration, expanding their design language for a global audience. But too often, this comes with spun narratives — or worse, no narrative at all. The key difference between the two? Louis Vuitton proudly and respectfully framed its show as an homage to India, explicitly labelling its S/S '26 offering as 'multi-faceted signatures of Indian sartorialism — threading a cross-cultural narrative through a contemporary wardrobe'. Meanwhile, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons of Prada lifted the Kolhapuri chappal straight from the town of Kolhapur and rebranded it as 'leather one-toe sandals', offering no credit or mention of the centuries-old Indian craft it so clearly borrowed from. Pharrell Williams, Louis Vuitton's menswear creative director, made his influences clear. The runway was designed by celebrated Indian architect Bijoy Jain, announced boldly across the brand's social channels. Music was composed by AR Rahman. Front-row seats were filled by Indian stars like Ishaan Khatter. The show notes openly acknowledged the collection as a reflection of 'the multi-faceted sensibilities of present-day India'. 'This is acknowledgment. This is cultural exchange. This is appreciation of heritage — not appropriation,' says Sujata Assomull, launch editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar India. The issue at hand isn't just about giving credit where it's due — though that, too, is increasingly non-negotiable in today's hyper-connected digital age. The deeper problem lies in a long-standing pattern of discrediting and rebranding by luxury houses — a habit quietly perpetuated for centuries. Prada referring to Kolhapuri chappals as 'leather one-toe sandals' isn't fashion's first fumble. From the Indian dupatta being adapted into the so-called Scandinavian scarf, the traditional dhoti to harem pants, and the 'boho' paisley mango print to rebranded Kashmiri pashmina shawls as mere 'cashmere' — these are all examples of Indian cultural staples repackaged and sold by the West with little to no cultural acknowledgment. Inside the Collection Prada's Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection marked a shift in tone — softer, more playful, and unmistakably relaxed. Gone were the sharp business suits. In their place: pastel-hued trousers, athletic-inspired tracksuits, and loose shorts cinched with elastic waistbands. Light blazers, glossy biker jackets, and whimsical accessories — raffia bucket hats, polished leather bags, and colour-blocked backpacks — added a sense of breezy irreverence. Footwear followed suit, favouring ease over formality: flip-flops, slender driving shoes, and open-toe leather sandals took centre stage, replacing traditional dress options. A fresh palette of mint, lemon, and powder blue breathed life into the classic greys, making the collection feel contemporary, cheerful, and unmistakably resort-ready. The Origins of the Design Kolhapuri chappals — awarded a Geographical Indication tag in 2019 — have been handcrafted for generations across eight districts in Maharashtra and Karnataka. Made from sun-dried buffalo hide and assembled entirely by hand, they require no synthetic materials or adhesives. Each pair is a labour of skill and tradition, often taking up to two weeks to complete. While Prada hasn't named Kolhapuris explicitly, the resemblance is hard to miss — and the omission has sparked renewed debate around cultural appropriation in luxury fashion. For some, seeing the silhouette on a global runway was a moment of overdue recognition. But in the absence of any acknowledgment — no mention of the artisans, no nod to the heritage — the gesture risks feeling hollow. Inspiration, when left uncredited, too easily slips into erasure. The chatter around the matter Still, its inclusion on the runway has sparked curiosity and intrigue. The sandals have been making the rounds online, with side-by-side posts and close-up comparisons drawing attention to their roots. For some, it's opened the door to deeper questions about visibility and sourcing, and what recognition can look like. The Kolhapuri chappal, a long-standing staple in Indian wardrobes, now finds itself in the spotlight. So, while its silhouette hasn't really changed, the audience has. We asked Assomull what she thinks of this move, or lack of move by Prada, and she reminds us: 'India has always been a source of inspiration for global fashion — and proudly so. At one point, British shopkeepers would label garments 'Made in India' as a mark of craft excellence. But history also reminds us how that shifted in the 1800s when Indian textile imports were banned under colonial rule. Today, brands from Dior and Hermès to Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad regularly turn to India's rich textile traditions — and most Indians take pride in this.' 'The problem arises when that inspiration isn't acknowledged,' she adds. The debate online has left people from all over the world, feeling the same way. Fashion influencer and local crafts enthusiast Masoom Minawala took to her social media platform to point out: 'Here's the thing, referencing is easy. Respecting the roots takes more intention. Let's remember, inspiration must come with credit.' The Lesson Luxury brands have had their fair share of messing up — and learning from their mistakes. They've seen highs like no other industry, and lows like every other one. Over the years, each of these brands has built a loyal base of clientele, and as they continue to reshape themselves, a new generation of young consumers keeps joining the fanbase. However, the legacy of an entire brand can be washed away if mistakes like these happen one too many times. Today's consumers are smart — they're listening, watching, and making choices that are politically and morally conscious. And rightfully so. After all these years of chiselling their craft and honing their creative direction, a luxury brand should be focusing on giving back to society — not just through CSR strategies, but by acknowledging the cultures they've borrowed from, and sharing traceability over the paths they've walked. Host of the podcast Fashion Your Seatbelt and a regular on the front row at fashion weeks, Jessica Michault says: 'In today's social media age, there's no excuse for brands not to credit the craft or culture they draw from — especially when the inspiration is so clearly rooted in a specific style and region. Whether through a press release, at the event, or in post-show communication, acknowledging the origin is the least that should be done.'
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No conversation around tennis and luxury is complete without mentioning Rolex — the timekeeper of Wimbledon since 1978, whose elegant presence graces the iconic grass courts each summer. Though not new, the partnership embodies timeless prestige, reinforcing the sport's relationship with heritage luxury. More recently, Emirates airline made a stylish entry into the world of Wimbledon. In 2023, the airline became an official partner, offering first-class guest exclusive Emirates x Wimbledon towels and a specially curated in-flight menu inspired by the tournament — complete with strawberries and cream at 40,000 feet. The crossover continues with capsule collections such as Stella McCartney's performance-driven lines for adidas and the retro-chic Lacoste x Roland Garros drops — proof that tennis is no longer just a sport, but a lifestyle category. Formula 1, or F1, is perhaps the ultimate example of sport as spectacle and luxury platform. Once reserved for motorheads, the event today is a magnet for celebrities, luxury brands, and the ultra-wealthy. A paddock pass at Monaco or Abu Dhabi is more coveted than a front-row seat at couture week. The partnerships run deep — IWC Schaffhausen and TAG Heuer have been F1's timekeepers of choice, while Richard Mille's bespoke designs are worn by drivers both on and off the track. Streetwear brands such as Palm Angels and Off-White are creating edgy F1 collaborations, transforming racing into a canvas for contemporary fashion. On race weekends, the luxury ecosystem around F1 is dizzying — from superyacht soirées in Monaco to curated experiences by brands like Hublot and Bulgari in Singapore and Miami. In a way, F1 has become the new Met Gala on wheels — faster, louder, and infinitely more Instagrammable. Padel, once a niche sport, has quickly become a status symbol in European and Middle Eastern circles. In Dubai, Madrid, and Milan, members-only Padel clubs have emerged as hubs where Hermès Birkins rest courtside while players volley in Moncler sneakers. The luxury crossover is booming — Prada has designed sleek Padel rackets and courtside fashion, while Dior offers customised gear for the sport. Beyond equipment, Padel's appeal lies in its sociability, it's a sport where after-match champagne is de rigueur, and exclusive club memberships offer a curated blend of fitness, fashion, and high living. Golf, a long-time ally of luxury, is seeing a dramatic aesthetic shift as well. Today's affluent golfers are swapping staid polos for Loro Piana knits and Ralph Lauren Purple Label golfwear. The game's old codes are being rewritten by brands like Malbon, whose streetwear-inspired collections have a cult following among younger players. Meanwhile, Louis Vuitton recently unveiled a limited-edition golf trunk — complete with monogrammed clubs, ball markers, and even a champagne compartment. The luxury now extends far beyond the fairways, from curated whisky tastings at the clubhouse to partnerships with brands like Cartier and Dom Pérignon, golf is being reimagined for the modern connoisseur. Sailing, perhaps the most elegant of all sporting pursuits, remains the epitome of craftsmanship and status. The America's Cup isn't just a regatta — it's a showcase of high horology, yachting engineering, and bespoke fashion. Panerai, Prada, and Ulysse Nardin are deeply entrenched in the sailing world, designing limited-edition timepieces inspired by nautical codes. Events like the Monaco Yacht Show have become luxury fairs in their own right — where superyacht builders unveil multi-million-dollar vessels alongside curated exhibitions of jewellery, watches, and couture. Today's regattas are as much about what you wear and where you dock as they are about who crosses the finish line first. Another fascinating expression of craftsmanship comes courtesy of Louis Vuitton (LV) — the French maison has elevated the art of the trophy trunk, turning moments of athletic triumph into grand displays of heritage and savoir faire. For the FIFA World Cup, LV has, since 2010, crafted a bespoke monogrammed trunk that houses the iconic golden trophy — a case that is paraded across the pitch before the final match and seen by billions worldwide. For F1, LV created a striking custom trunk to transport the championship trophy for the Monaco Grand Prix — one of the most prestigious races in the sport. In tennis, LV designs the official trunk for the Roland Garros trophies, with interiors lined in the tournament's signature clay red. These trunks do more than protect precious silverware; they create a spectacle around the moment of victory, making luxury craftsmanship a visible part of sporting history. The maison has also explored trophy trunks for sailing, esports, and even rugby, proving that no sport is beyond the reach of luxury storytelling. Meanwhile, the ski slopes have transformed into a plush playground. In Gstaad, Courchevel, and St. Moritz, après-ski fashion is now as important as carving turns on the piste. Dior's ski capsules and Chanel's iconic après-ski collections marry performance with glamour, while Moncler's Genius series redefines winter wear. Zai's carbon-fibre skis and Hermès' leather ski bags are status symbols in their own right. On the slopes, branded champagne lounges by Veuve Clicquot and Laurent-Perrier offer high-altitude indulgence. Michelin-starred dining at ski resorts further blurs the lines between sport and luxury lifestyle, creating an ecosystem where experiences matter as much as technical skill. What connects these diverse sporting worlds is a fundamental shift in luxury consumer behaviour. Today's affluent buyers aren't satisfied with passive luxury, they crave experiences that combine aspiration with action. Owning a limited-edition Richard Mille worn by an F1 driver, playing Padel at a members-only club, or skiing in a Dior down jacket becomes a badge of belonging in a rarefied lifestyle tribe. It's a form of experiential branding that no static ad campaign can match. Social media is an accelerant in this evolution. On platforms like Instagram and TikTok, sports-driven luxury moments go viral — Lewis Hamilton attending fashion week in Valentino, Naomi Osaka in Louis Vuitton at the US Open, or Saudi Padel League matches packed with influencers draped in the latest European fashion. These visuals feed the aspirational loop and redefine the codes of modern luxury, making them more dynamic, sporty, and culturally relevant. Looking ahead, this convergence of sport and luxury is only set to deepen. Expect to see luxury brands designing entire sports venues, think tennis clubs by Dior or golf resorts by Ralph Lauren. Private sporting events curated by fashion houses, ultra-luxury sports academies, and immersive brand partnerships built around major sporting calendars are already in the pipeline. For luxury, this is not a passing trend: it's a new era of cultural engagement. Because in today's high luxury world, the ultimate status symbol isn't just what you wear or drive — it's how you play.
