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West coast, best coast? Chase sunsets, marine life and circus vibes on Florida's Gulf coast
West coast, best coast? Chase sunsets, marine life and circus vibes on Florida's Gulf coast

Miami Herald

time3 days ago

  • Entertainment
  • Miami Herald

West coast, best coast? Chase sunsets, marine life and circus vibes on Florida's Gulf coast

It doesn't take much prodding to get me to visit the west coast of Florida — not with its photo-worthy sunsets, daily dolphin cameos, calm Gulf waters and powdery white sand. Now there are new reasons to visit, from a circus-themed hotel in Sarasota to an all-suite hotel that thrives on roomy suites and luxe perks in Clearwater Beach. Peek Behind the Curtain of Cirque St. Armands Beachside, Sarasota Ever wanted to run away with the circus? Escape the doldrums of everyday life with a stay at the new Cirque St. Armands Beachside in Sarasota. At this circus-themed hotel, which fronts the powdery sands of Lido Beach and is within walking distance to the Italian-inspired shopping and dining area of St. Armands Circle, guests are immersed in Sarasota's rich circus legacy — without the kitsch. In the heyday of the 1920s, John Ringling moved the circus' winter quarters to Sarasota, forever changing the city's cultural core — and this hotel is an imaginative tribute to that legacy. Why Stay Like a magic trick, the boutique hotel was transformed from a former Holiday Inn. Circus magic grabs your attention upon arrival: Green lion topiaries that stand guard at the front doors, sophisticated Art Deco touches like animal throw pillows on velvety furniture, ostrich feather chandeliers, black and white-striped columns, and oversized artwork featuring scenes from circus life. Grab the welcome cocktail — prosecco anchored with a popsicle — and walk around the property to soak up all of the whimsical details. Every day, I discovered something new. While the communal spaces are doused in personality and bold patterns and colors, rooms are kept quiet for a relaxed vibe, with subtle nods to the circus, including artwork and coffee table books. All rooms come with balconies, many of which showcase beach views; and while rooms are spacious, we suggest booking a one-bedroom suite that offers an apartment-type feel. There's a kitchen and a large island for dining or working, a living room with a comfy wraparound couch, and the king bedroom features a bathroom with a gorgeous soaking tub. Slip behind the red velvet curtains to dine at Ringside restaurant, where the beach and evening sunset show glimmer through floor-to-ceiling windows. The restaurant also pays homage to the circus, with curtained nooks that are reminiscent of rail cars for private dining (perfect for date night). Sip on theatrical cocktails and order from the seafood-centric menu that stars crab-stuffed mushrooms, char-grilled octopus, a pan-seared local grouper and a gorgonzola-encrusted New York strip. The on-property pool is small but deliciously quiet, and includes a separate lawn for sunbathing, but guests seeking a resort experience can hop on a shuttle to Cirque's sister property, Lido Beach Resort, to use its pool and beach amenities. One afternoon, I ordered an early dinner by Lido's pool, walked the beach at sunset to hunt for shells (and scored sand dollars) and swam in the pool until after dark. To me, that's vacation magic. What To Do For better insight into Sarasota's circus heritage, spend a day at The Ringling, which is arguably one of the best museums in Florida. The estate grounds are massive and there is so much to see, from circus memorabilia to a rose garden and bayside winter mansion. Start at the Circus Museum to take in the impressive mini-model of the tented Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus which authentically details every aspect of circus life, to restored original wagons and costumes, and even the Ringlings' private rail car. Make time for The John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art, where the diverse range of artwork and the grounds blew me away. It feels like a slice of Italy with Renaissance-style gardens and statues, and its arching pink architecture is worthy of photos. At Marie Selby Botanical Gardens in downtown Sarasota — the world's first net-positive energy botanical garden complex — you'll bliss out on the garden's tree-canopied paths that wind past Sarasota Bay and its natural spaces that showcase serene waterfalls, towering banyan trees and perfectly crafted topiaries, and swinging bridges that adults will enjoy as much as children. The garden is beloved for its orchid collection, air plants and rare plants. It's worth having lunch at The Green Orchid, where ingredients are often sourced from the on-site garden. A Suite Stay At Opal Sol On Clearwater Beach Another newcomer on Florida's west coast is Opal Sol in Clearwater Beach. This resort is connected to its sister property, Opal Sands, which means guests have access to amenities at both properties. In the lobby, towering trees grandly sprout from water features and luxe coastal vibes abound, and the guest rooms showcase Clearwater's prime assets like the beach and clear waters, where dolphins and manatees make regular appearances. Why Stay What sets this hotel apart from others in the area: All guests get a roomy suite and are guaranteed a Gulf view from huge, glassy balconies — which means you have a front-row seat to Clearwater's nightly sunset extravaganza and the beach. The moment I stepped outside on my balcony, I spotted a manatee swimming near the shoreline, coming close to giddy swimmers. That's just how clear the water is and how good the views are from Opal Sol. Families or big groups will appreciate the range of room layouts, from studios to three bedrooms, and amenities such as kitchenettes and soaking tubs. All suites can be connected (so you can be with your kids or friends, while having your own space too). Pro tip: Choose a corner unit that comes with an outdoor shower and a hot tub, where you can watch the sunset from your balcony and then soak in the bubbling warm water as the sun goes down. Drift restaurant is elevating the dining scene in Clearwater, not only in ambience but with a menu that focuses on local produce — do not miss the whipped feta served on a board with a medley of baby veggies, along with a velvety lobster bisque, a whole branzino topped with crispy onions, and locally caught fish dishes. You can also order a pizza blistered in the wood-fired oven. When you're done dining and sunbathing at Opal Sol's three pools, take the skyway bridge to neighboring Opal Sands for more dining options, a Gulf-front pool and easy access to the beach. Altogether, guests have access to four pools, 10 dining outlets and two Opal spas, including one with a salt cave. What To Do Clearwater Beach regularly wins awards for its beaches, and a typical day should revolve around dips in the Gulf and walks along the beachside boardwalk. You're also in walking distance to Pier 60 and its nightly sunset celebrations. Make a dinner reservation at nearby Crabby's Dockside, a three-story restaurant with panoramic views of the beach and neighboring marina. A coastal breeze and live music flow through the open-air spaces, making it easy to sink into relaxation. Grab a frozen cocktail and lock in an order of warm royal red shrimp doused with Old Bay seasoning, fire-roasted Alaskan snow crab legs, and local grouper cooked your way. From there, head to the neighboring marina for a sunset cruise. While you can jet off on boats shaped like chomping sharks and tiki huts, adults looking for a serene sunset experience should book a trip with Schooner Clearwater. They cap the guest list at 20 people on the 52-foot sailboat, so everyone has room and an intimate experience. The captain sets the tone with a chill playlist, and if the winds are right, guests can help hoist the sails. You'll look for dolphins as you sail around the beachfront waiting on the sun to set. The night I was aboard, clouds hindered an epic sunset the area is known for — but in typical Clearwater style, on the return back to the marina, the sky turned a brilliant pink and put on an incredible sky show that I'll never forget. That's the thing about Florida's west coast — from marine sightings to sunsets that always outdo the night before, you never know what nature has in store.

The mansion the circus built: See inside the 56-room Florida home built by the Ringling family a century ago
The mansion the circus built: See inside the 56-room Florida home built by the Ringling family a century ago

Business Insider

time6 days ago

  • Business
  • Business Insider

The mansion the circus built: See inside the 56-room Florida home built by the Ringling family a century ago

John Ringling and his wife, Mable, began spending their winters in Sarasota, Florida, in 1909. One of the seven Ringling brothers — five of whom founded the Ringling Bros. circus in 1884 — John Ringling became one of the most famous and successful Ringlings, partly because he lived long enough to enjoy the financial success of the family circus enterprise. In 1907, the brothers purchased Barnum & Bailey's Greatest Show on Earth, which they would merge with the Ringling Bros. World's Greatest Shows, creating a monopoly in the circus industry that led to John and his brother Charles becoming some of the richest people in America at the time. John Ringling grew his wealth by investing in booming industries like oil, railroads, and ranching. Despite amassing a considerable fortune, with his estate valued at $23.5 million by his death in 1936 — or $547 million in today's money, according to the US Bureau of Labor Statistics — John Ringling died with only $311 ($7,244 today) in his bank account, according to his nephew, Henry Ringling North. Ringling began constructing Ca' d'Zan in 1924. Costing a reported $1.5 million in 1926, according to the museum, ($27 million today), Ca' d'Zan expands over 36,000 square feet with 56 rooms, including five guest suites and a service wing dedicated to staff. The extravagant mansion served as John and Mable Ringling's winter home whenever they weren't residing in New York City or traveling. However, the Ringlings only enjoyed their residence at Ca' d'Zan for a limited time, as Mable Ringling died in 1929, and John Ringling followed in 1936. At one point, John and his brother Charles Ringling — who later built a marble mansion north of Ca' d'Zan —owned a fourth of Sarasota, as reported by The Ringling. Downstairs, the mansion's reception room, lounging room, breakfast room, dining room, great hall, and ballroom, as well as the kitchen and pantry, are open to the public. The mansion and the museum are open every day from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Entrance to the mansion costs $45 for adults, $20 for children between 6 and 17 years old, and $15 for children under 6. The mansion's design pulls inspiration from Venetian and Mediterranean styles. The colorful and intricate design of Ca' d'Zan draws inspiration from Venetian Gothic palazzos like the Ca' d'Oro. Its exterior and interior walls are lined with custom-made terracotta, and the windows replicate Gothic arches. The mansion's name, Ca' d'Zan, translates to "House of John" in Venetian. The entrance foyer welcomed the Ringlings' guests. The entrance foyer, like much of Ca' d'Zan, is filled with furnishings John and Mable Ringling bought from estate sales. The mansion and adjacent museum showcase 400 pieces bought from a Newport, Rhode Island, mansion following Alva Vanderbilt and William Vanderbilt's divorce, as reported by The New York Times. The central court, which houses a grand piano and custom ceiling panels, was the heart of the mansion. The central court was meant to be the center of entertaining at the mansion. It features a 1892 Steinway grand piano and an Aeolian organ to soundtrack the Ringlings' gatherings. Colored glass windows bring Sarasota's Gulf Coast into the mansion. Throughout the mansion, including in the central court, windows feature colored glass panels, which create a warm atmosphere inside the home and add layers of dimension to the interior design. The ballroom and its ornate ceiling are standout features of the property. The grand ballroom's gilded ceiling features custom artwork by illustrator Willy Pogany. The ballroom ceiling is comprised of 22 custom canvases. In "Dancers of Nations," 22 canvas paintings depicting dancers of different times and cultures are arranged in octagonal frames. A place for informal dining, the breakfast room sits on the other side of the mansion. The room gave diners views of the Sarasota Bay through colored-glass windows similar to ones in the central court. The kitchen features cutting-edge technology of the time, like refrigerators and electric stoves. Other cutting-edge technology in the mansion included an annunciator system that allowed guests to ring the butler's pantry for service. Despite being constructed during the Prohibition years, the mansion houses a full-size bar. The tap room where the Ringlings served their guests with wine and spirits features a terrazzo floor, colorful glass windows, and a bar and decorative glass panels purchased from the Cicardi Winter Palace Restaurant in St. Louis, Sarasota Magazine reported. The formal dining room features design inspirations from all over the Mediterranean. The painted plaster ceiling is inspired by Islamic design, per the mansion's audio tour. The room decorations draw inspiration from the Italianate aesthetic of the 19th century. The wooden table had 20 leaves that could extend to host a large number of guests. In another display of early 20th-century technology, the mansion has a private elevator. The elevator was one of the first ever installed in a private residence in Florida. Currently closed to the public, the second floor of the mansion holds the Ringlings' bedrooms. Separated bathrooms and closets, as well as an entertaining game room, are also upstairs. The upper levels of the mansion are currently closed to the public as museum staff undergo repairs from damages sustained during Hurricanes Milton and Helene. The mansion's rear terrace opens to the Gulf coast. The mansion's water-facing terrace and dock are paved with imported marble tiles in a chevron pattern. Standing on the terrace, visitors overlook the Gulf coast and can feel its cooling breeze, which once made the city of Sarasota famous as an "air-conditioned city," the Sarasota Herald-Tribune reported. Often, guests arrived by sea. While the main entrance to the property was located on land, guests were often welcomed on the bayfront terrace and its waterside dock. The historic mansion has been hit by many hurricanes, most recently by Milton and Helene. As of July 2025, the upper floors of the historic mansion remain closed to the public as restoration efforts continue on the property. The mansion was heavily affected by last year's hurricane season, with its basement flooding and disrupting electrical functions, and it was closed to the public between September and December 2024. The Ringling estate in Sarasota is also home to the John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art. As well as Ca' d'Zan, the Ringling estate, which expands over 66 acres, also includes the John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art. The museum, which houses over 10,000 pieces, opened to the public for select exhibitions in 1930. It opened permanently in 1932. The museum also features a full room from the Astor house in New York City. Two of the museum's 21 original galleries feature intact decorations from Caroline Schermerhorn Astor and her son John Jacob Astor IV 's former residence on New York City's Fifth Avenue. When the home was demolished in 1926, John Ringling purchased its interiors, including a grand salon and a library, which are both now on display at the museum. Visitors to Ca' d'Zan can also enjoy the Ringlings' circus museum. The Ringlings' legacy continues to dazzle visitors. Whether it's the Venetian architecture, Gilded Age artifacts, or circus history that attracts visitors, the 66-acre Ringling estate and its extensive collections offer a unique and immersive experience, allowing visitors to travel through the extravagant displays of wealth of the turn of the century and the diverse worldly landscapes that inspired the design of Ca' d'Zan.

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