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Travel + Leisure
16-06-2025
- Travel + Leisure
The 'Adventure Capital of Switzerland' Is the Gateaway to the Most Picturesque Villages in the Swiss Alps—and It Sits Between 2 Lakes
Request a room with a view of the Jungfrau peak at the Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa. Visit the car-free village of Mürren, accessible only by cable car or mountain train. Take in aerial views of the mountains and lakes surrounding Interlaken by paragliding or skydiving. Explore Interlaken in the early fall, after the summer crowds have left and before the snow arrives. Tuck into a traditional fondue at Restaurant Bären in the historic town of Unterseen; it's within walking distance of central Interlaken. Located between Lake Thun and Lake Brienz in the Bernese Highlands, Interlaken—which translates from German to 'between the lakes'—is often billed as the 'adventure capital of Switzerland.' And there's only one rule when visiting: Get outside as much as possible. Besides that, you're free to fill your itinerary however you see fit, whether that's skiing, skydiving, rafting, hiking, or any other outdoor activity you can imagine. Dave Storey, managing director of Hightide Kayak School, also describes it as a place where 'everything is at your fingertips,' from glittering lakes and rivers to mountains, glaciers, and lush meadows. This particular combination of scenery is complemented by modern convenience; Interlaken is incredibly well-connected by train, allowing travelers to use the resort town as a base as they explore further into the Jungfrau region. In less than one hour, you can reach Lauterbrunnen, Mürren, and Grindelwald, three villages that offer the quintessential Swiss Alps experience with mountain views, fondue, and traditional chalet-style architecture. After visiting for a few days earlier this year, I can confirm the following advice from Storey rings true: 'Stay for longer than you think. There's so much to do; don't let time be the reason why you miss out.' I'd recommend at least three to four days if you can swing it, and come prepared for all kinds of adventure—hiking boots, water-resistant layers, and sunscreen are nonnegotiable. The lobby of Victoria Jungfrau Grand Hotel. The Leading Hotels of the World The Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa is the grand dame of Interlaken. Overlooking Höhematte Park and the Alps in the distance, the 216-key property is old-school luxury at its finest. You won't find anything alpine-chic or rustic here; it's plush bedding (some of the softest sheets I've ever slept in), Michelin-starred food, and top-of-the-line spa treatments all the way. To recover from skiing and skydiving, I spent most of my free time at the spa, where a Finnish sauna, an indoor pool, steam baths, and relaxation rooms helped relieve any soreness or remaining jet lag. Like many overnight accommodations in Switzerland, Hotel Jnterlaken weaves together its guest experience using history and modern comfort. This inn dates back to the 1320s, laying claim to the title of the oldest hotel in Interlaken. Inside, however, you'll find the spaces are pleasantly contemporary (and the hotel continues to make renovations). There's free Wi-Fi, and guests are welcome to enjoy a complimentary breakfast buffet each morning. Grand Hotel Beau Rivage welcomed its first guests in 1874; since then, it's been a place of respite for travelers visiting Interlaken. While the guest rooms could use an update, the spa—complete with a solarium, sauna, and steam bath—the views of the turquoise River Aare, and the sun terrace outside the L' Ambiance restaurant make this a property worth experiencing for a night or two. Scenes from a snow shoeing excursion in Interlaken, Switzerland. Lydia Mansel/Travel + Leisure Sitting at the base of the Bernese Alps and easily accessible by train, Interlaken acts as a natural gateway to the surrounding mountains and villages. From the Interlaken Ost station, journey to the villages of Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen, which Storey recommends for an easy day trip. Diane Thiebaut, a guest relations agent at the Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa, also suggests Grindelwald, which she describes as a 'small, charming village' that offers a different view of the Eiger peak. Mürren and Wengen are two other options—and some of my favorite destinations within the Jungfrau region. Both are car-free, and you can access Mürren by the Schilthorn cableway, now known as the steepest cable car in the world. Thiebaut calls the Schilthorn a 'must-see' when visiting Interlaken. Visitors take the cable car up from Mürren to Piz Gloria, an outdoor viewing deck with a 360-degree revolving restaurant. In good weather conditions, you can look out upon hundreds of alpine peaks, including the Jungfrau, Mönch, and Eiger. It's also a popular spot for James Bond fans; you may recognize it as a filming location in the 1969 movie "On Her Majesty's Secret Service.' The mountains might get all the glory in the Jungfrau region, but Interlaken's position between Lake Thun and Lake Brienz encourages locals and visitors alike to spend time on the water. Book a kayaking tour on Lake Brienz with Hightide Kayak School, enjoy a raclette dinner as you float down the river from Bönigen to Interlaken, or take a boat cruise and sightseeing tour on Lake Thun. Adventurous travelers will delight in all of the adrenaline-pumping activities in Interlaken—namely, skydiving and paragliding. 'In Interlaken, visitors have to try paragliding, where they will have a view above Lake Thun and Lake Brienz and the surrounding mountains,' says Thiebaut. 'The landing is in front of the [Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa], which makes the experience more special.' Book through Paragliding Interlaken or Skydive Interlaken. I went with the latter to officially check skydiving off my travel wish list. Just be conscious that weather conditions can affect either sport, so keep your schedule flexible. Skiing is one of Storey's favorite winter activities, and there are plenty of nearby mountains where you can get your fill. I'd recommend heading to nearby Grindelwald, Mürren, or Wengen to explore the Jungfrau ski region, which includes the First, Schilthorn, and Männlichen ski areas. Snowshoeing is another way to explore the snowy landscape, and Outdoor Switzerland has a lovely tour through the mountain village of Isenfluh (they provide the snowshoes and poles). Waiter pouring wine surrounded by pizza at Ristorante e Pizzeria Sapori. The Leading Hotels of the World 'If you're looking for a traditional Swiss chalet restaurant, try Restaurant Bären in the old town of Unterseen. [It's] walking distance from Interlaken town center,' says Thiebaut. I echo her sentiment; the fondue was one of the best I had in Switzerland, and they even have plenty of options for those, like me, who are gluten-free. Instead of bread, you'll get pickles, pears, and potatoes to dip in the melty cheese. Ristorante e Pizzeria Sapori, one of Storey's favorites, can be found inside the Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa. The menu is filled with all kinds of Italian specialties—including pizzas, calzones, and pasta dishes—that will hit the spot after a day of adventuring throughout Interlaken. For more classic Swiss dishes, Thiebaut suggests Restaurant Stadthaus, noting that it's located next to Bären and run by Swiss TV chef René Schudel. With a raclette rösti , fondue, and a Grindelwald-style Käseschnitte (similar to a gourmet grilled cheese) on deck, there's a good chance you won't leave the restaurant hungry. Cityscape of Interlaken, Switzerland. Evgeniya Vlasova/Travel + Leisure 'Interlaken is great all year,' says Storey. 'The busiest time of year is summer, but you can still find secluded places on the lake or the many hiking trails in the area.' The warmer months tempt those looking to hike, bike, or go canyoning or river rafting, but, according to Thiebaut, the winter season is equally appealing. 'Travelers wanting to come at a quieter time should discover the winter. It's more than just about skiing in Switzerland during that time. In Interlaken, even the lake cruise is operating, you can still paraglide (with a pilot), or enjoy the spa,' she explains. Prices will increase during peak times (winter holidays and from June to August), so consider the shoulder seasons if you're hoping to save money. Mid-September to mid-October is the perfect time to visit if you'd rather experience fewer crowds, mild temperatures, crisp mountain air, and stunning fall foliage. The train leading towards Interlaken in the winter. Christopher Larson/Travel + Leisure Bern Airport (BRN) is the closest major airport to Interlaken, but travelers visiting from the U.S. will likely fly into Zurich Airport (ZRH). There's an express train from Zurich to Interlaken Ost that takes just under two hours. While you can book a single ticket for the journey, a Swiss Travel Pass—which provides unlimited travel by train, bus, and boat throughout the country—is the better option, especially if you plan on taking the train to the smaller villages and towns around Interlaken. Like most cities and towns in Switzerland, Interlaken is relatively easy to navigate via public transportation (especially if you use the SBB Mobile app to determine your route). Anyone staying overnight in Interlaken will receive the Interlaken guest card, granting free travel on public transportation within the permitted zone, as well as discounts on select attractions and railway journeys. If you plan to explore other parts of Switzerland during your trip, a Swiss Travel Pass may make more sense.
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Travel + Leisure
19-05-2025
- Travel + Leisure
This Swiss Village Can Only be Reached by Train or the World's Steepest Gondola—and It's Home to Stunning Waterfalls and a 360-degree Rotating Mountaintop Restaurant
Check into the Hotel Mürren Palace, where European elites once danced in the ballroom. Savor a mountaintop brunch at the rotating Piz Gloria restaurant, which offers 360-degree mountain views. Ski at the birthplace of downhill and slalom racing. Walk the Flower Trail to admire more than 150 different alpine blooms. Ride the world's steepest cable car, where the trip down is even more thrilling than the ascent. Switzerland's narrow Lauterbrunnen Valley is flanked by steep mountains, making it feel more like a deep, tree-speckled canyon. Partway up one of these lofty peaks, above a sheer rock face, lies Mürren, a historic mountain village you can only reach by train or via the world's steepest gondola. Cars aren't permitted in Mürren, where the air is as clean as the surroundings are breathtaking. 'We are sitting on a gemstone here,' Constanze Trommer, owner of Café Liv, the town's morning hub, tells Travel + Leisure . 'Nature-wise, you have everything you need. You have mountains, you have forests, you have water all around.' On the latter, Trommer is referring to the valley's many lakes and waterfalls, including Switzerland's highest, the 1,370-foot-tall Mürrenbach Falls. Across the slender valley from Mürren, the iconic mountain trio of Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau stand watch over the town. Although Mürren hosted the first FIS Alpine World Ski Championships, the global event outgrew the small village, so skiing here today remains less crowded than at many alpine resorts. The car-free lanes also mean you can slide or snowshoe right up to your hotel. 'You can ski-in, ski-out in all of Mürren because we have snow-covered streets until the end of February,' says Samuel Bichsel, general manager of the Hotel Mürren Palace. In summer, hiking paths traverse flower-bedecked meadows and wend through quiet forests of fir and spruce. All year, gondolas whisk you up to the Schilthorn station, which is topped by a revolving restaurant where you can have breakfast in the sky, surrounded by 200 mountain peaks. A guest suite in Hotel Eiger Mürren. Hotel Eiger Mürren is operated by the same family who built it in 1892, a year after the railway opened to offer an alternative to arriving on foot. The service remains as warm and friendly as ever, while the timber-rich decor and photographs of old Mürren evoke a modern ski lodge. Book a mountain-facing room for an unforgettable view. When it first opened in 1874, countrymen called this grand hotel 'Switzerland's first palace.' Reopened in December 2024 after a long closure, Mürren Palace recalls those days again. The onetime ballroom is now a breakfast hall with belle époque vibes, and the refurbished guest rooms feature parquet floors, colorful furnishings, and beautiful views. Hotel Edelweiss Mürren is a classic Swiss hotel: impeccably clean, with a healthy breakfast buffet, and dominated by white and wood. The white walls and cozy bedding are accented by knotty-pine ceilings and bed frames. Since the Edelweiss rests just above the Mürren cliff, you'll awaken to the Eiger-Mönch-Jungfrau triumvirate, delighting you even before you have that tasty breakfast. Located by the gondola that whisks visitors up the mountain, Hotel Alpenruh is the ultimate ski-friendly hotel. That said, the property's expansive terrace has sweeping vistas and is ideal for lunch on a summer day. Inside, welcoming guest rooms come with a petite balcony or rustic cowhide rugs. Cows grazing in front of Trummelbach Falls. Evgeniya Vlasova/Travel + Leisure Visit in January for the Inferno, 'the longest downhill race in the world.' British skier Sir Arnold Lunn founded the Kandahar Ski Club in Mürren and oversaw the first FIS Alpine World Ski Championships. 'But since Mürren was too small [for future world cup races], Lunn decided to promote the Inferno as a race for amateurs,' explains travel writer Adam Ruck. Snow permitting, the Inferno runs for 9.25 miles; if you want to sign up, the 1,850 spots fill up by September. Stroll the well-tended Flower Trail, reached via the Allmendhubel funicular. 'All the flowers are growing in June, July, and August. The altitude makes it last,' says Trommer. 'You have many flowers, like edelweiss, johanniskraut (a.k.a. St. John's wort), and blue gentian.' Brave the Mürren-Gimmelwald via ferrata, open from mid-June to October. 'It's special because it's the only via ferrata that goes downward, not up … There's also a huge suspension bridge,' says Bichsel. The dizzying, 1.4-mile descent on ladders, a cliff-hugging platform, and a wiggly bridge takes about three hours. If you book a guide, you can add a zip line to your downhill adventure. In 30 minutes, the Stechelberg gondola and bus connection take you to this geologic wonder. 'It's really impressive because you have 10 different waterfalls that go inside the mountain,' says Bichsel. With all that water—up to 5,000 gallons per second—Bichsel says, 'It's quite loud.' Given the noise level, children under four aren't allowed. Travel by rail up to Jungfraujoch, the highest train station in Europe, at 11,332 feet above sea level. 'Going by train through the actual mountain is quite impressive. And when you get to the Sphinx Observatory, you can walk to the Mönchsjochhütte, a mountain cabin,' says Eva Leenders, receptionist at the Hotel Alpenruh. Leenders cautions that, with the altitude, the walk can take over an hour. Breakfast at the restaurant in Hotel Eiger Mürren. 'If you're looking for a traditional Swiss mountain village place, that would be Restaurant Stägerstübli,' says Leenders. 'The chef is very good at all the meat-related dishes, and, of course, they also have fondue.' Located in a 1901 building, Stägerstübli also serves excellent rösti , grated hash-brown-style potatoes served with cheese or a fried egg—a hearty way to refuel after a day in the snow. For an elegant dinner, book a table by the window at the restaurant in Hotel Eiger Mürren, where dishes highlight local ingredients like Vaud province cheese and soup made with Lauterbrunnen Valley pumpkins. The rich, meat-forward menu also has some lighter options like vegetarian curry. The Eiger's Tächi Bar is Mürren's best place for an after-dinner digestif. Trommer recommends the dining room at Hotel Regina Mürren for its decor, food, and service. 'It's a historical building,' says Trommer. 'They have excellent food and an excellent team. The dinner menu changes daily, with a vegetarian and meat option. It's very fresh, very seasonal—that's their model.' The Schilthorn gondola whizzes you up to this revolving restaurant, which served as the villain's lair in the 1969 James Bond classic 'On Her Majesty's Secret Service.' 'If you would like to have a spectacular breakfast, this will be a good one,' says Leenders. 'It takes 45 minutes to turn 360 degrees. You see the whole mountain range. On a good day, you can even see Mont Blanc.' Choose from the extensive breakfast or lunch buffet, or order a la carte. Gondelbar means gondola bar, and this cozy watering hole just above the Hotel Jungfrau is literally an old gondola converted into a bar. Bichsel recommends warming up with his favorite post-ski elixir: 'I like the Münzen Zwetschge—mint tea with schnapps.' For a cozy pre-dinner drink and nibble—what Swiss Germans call an apéro —Trommer recommends Alti Metzg. It's a gourmet deli with a cozy cellar where you can share a bottle of wine and a plate of locally sourced bread and charcuterie. 'They close at 7 p.m., so it's perfect for before dinner,' Trommer adds. A tennis court in Murren overlooking the Swiss Alps. Michela Sieman/Travel + Leisure The ski season in Mürren starts in December and was still going strong when I visited in April, but you should arrive by March to ensure adequate snow coverage. Although many Mürren residents first come for the winter, they fall in love with the summer. 'Winter used to be my favorite season because I love to ski. Now, I love the summer … the mix of seasons is the coolest thing about it,' says Bichsel. Between late May and September, you can go hiking, mountain biking, and even paragliding. You also have more hours to sit outside and simply admire the mountain views late into the evening. While Mürren has fewer crowds in spring and fall, note that most hotels and restaurants close for a few weeks after Easter and again in October and November. A passenger taking photos from the Jungfrau to Mürren is part of the fun. Arrive by train into the town of Lauterbrunnen in the valley of the same name. From there, you can take the Grütschalpbahn gondola and transfer to a train to Mürren. For more of a thrill, choose option two: Take a bus from Lauterbrunnen to the Stechelberg gondola, which travels nearly straight up for four minutes before arriving in Mürren. If you have a car, you can park in Lauterbrunnen or Stechelberg.
