Latest news with #KolhapuriChappal
The National
a day ago
- Entertainment
- The National
Kolhapuri chappals are now high fashion, but here's how I get real ones for a song
India's rich culture has inspired many international fashion brands over the decades. Hermes, Saint Laurent and, more recently, Gucci have all created their version of the sari. The late Karl Lagerfeld showcased pieces reminiscent of the bandhgala kurta for Chanel's autumn 2012 collection, while Jimmy Choo and Christian Louboutin footwear have featured Indian-inspired embroidery over the years. Several brands have also taken popular ethnic garments such as dupattas, Nehru jackets and turbans, and fused it with their designs. This week, as part of its spring/summer 2026 show in Milan, Prada sent out footwear that resembles the humble Kolhapuri chappal, a handcrafted tan-coloured leather sandal that can be found in almost every Indian home – and a style I have been wearing since I can remember. Kolhapuri chappals are believed to have originated around the 13th century in the city of Kolhapur in Maharashtra, where artisans and cobblers made them by hand – from cutting and shaping the cowhide leather and stitching all the pieces together, to adding colour using vegetable dyes. Known by different names across India, including paytaan and kachkadi, these sturdy sandals are an everyday staple for both men and women. The versatile style, from the classic tan and dark brown designs to ones with colourful straps, pairs well with both Indian and non-Indian outfits. They are also comfortable to wear and walk around in all day – just maybe not during the monsoons. Gold and silver-strapped versions can be worn during Diwali and on other special occasions, while colourful Kolhapuris add a fun touch to daywear, depending on your mood. Some brands also make Kolhapuris with wedge heels. I still buy handmade pieces from markets on my visits back home, such as in Old Delhi, a must-visit if a trip to India is on the cards. A plain pair costs about 800 to 1,000 rupees (up to Dh42), while an ornate pair will set you back about 1,500-1,800 rupees (up to Dh77). One of my favourite places to buy handmade Kolhapuris is Dilli Haat, in the heart of New Delhi. Here, you can find footwear with sequins and embroidery – at a fraction of the price usually charged by branded stores. While they are traditionally crafted in light tan, a pair can be made as dark as you want as the artisans add dye to it on the spot. I have also discovered other brands that have added a modern spin to this classic chappal with detailed embroidery and ornate embellishments. There are bright, fun and colourful pairs, often featuring varying colours for the sole and strap that offer a nice contrast to all the black clothes I like to wear. Many of these brands also work directly with craftswomen in villages and ship internationally, including to the UAE, with prices starting at about 3,000 rupees (Dh128). Prices for Prada's "version" have not been revealed yet, but the brand's men's sandals are typically priced from Dh3,000. While a luxury purchase often represents feel-good indulgence, for something that takes inspiration from an ancient handicraft, perhaps it's better to support artisans who have been keeping these traditions alive for hundreds of years.
Buzz Feed
2 days ago
- Entertainment
- Buzz Feed
Kolhapuris Walked The Prada Runway, But Got Zero Credit. Let's Talk Cultural Appropriation
So I was minding my own business, scrolling through Prada's Spring 2026 menswear show (as one does), when I saw something oddly familiar on the runway. Flat leather sandals. T-strap. Minimal. Wait a minute. Are those… Kolhapuris? Prada's menswear collection, shown at the sunlit Fondazione Prada in Milan, had all the usual high-fashion suspects: floaty tunics, flowerpot hats, lots of 'soft structure.' But what really stole the show (and the internet)? A pair of sandals that looked exactly like the ones sold on street corners across India—the iconic Kolhapuri chappal. Except now they're being referred to as 'toe ring sandals.' And they reportedly cost over $1000. *Insert collective desi gasp* Instagram wasted zero time. Comments started pouring in under Prada's video: 'Why they wearing Indian flats???' 'Kolhapur—a royal city from Maharashtra, INDIA 🇮🇳. Atleast be considerate enough to give credit to right people and right source...' 'At this price you can take a trip to Maharashtra and buy many original Kolhapuris for ₹250-₹3000.' I mean, they're not wrong. Kolhapuris have been handmade by artisans across Maharashtra and Karnataka for generations. Real ones are made using sun-dried buffalo hide, stitched completely by hand, and don't use any glue or synthetic material. It can take up to two weeks to make a single pair. So yeah, there's craftsmanship, but it's been happening long before the runway decided to catch up. The chappals even got a GI (Geographical Indication) tag in 2019. That's like the government officially going: 'Yep, these are ours. Back off.' To be clear, Prada didn't say these are Kolhapuris. But fashion stylist Anaita Shroff Adajania posted side-by-sides on her story, with the caption, "called it! Prada kohlaprui chapals" and honestly? It's giving Ctrl+C, Ctrl+Luxury. Look, I'm all for Indian design getting global love. It is cool seeing something from home take a stroll down a Milan runway. But when there's no shoutout to where it came from or who makes it—just a vague "genuine, nice" vibe—it feels kinda… off. Hello @Prada Team Here are my bespoke #KolhapuriChappal; proudly hand made by expert craftsman in #Kolhapur #Maharashtra #India. Beautiful, ain't they? Request you to do the right thing and give the credit where it is due. #KolhapuriChappals #IndianCraftsmanship … — Manoj Shendye (@shendye) June 24, 2025 Twitter: @shendye Because when your nani's chappals end up on a luxury catwalk with zero context and a five-figure price tag in rupees, it's no longer just a fashion story. It's a visibility story. An authenticity story. A who's getting credit and who's getting erased story. @Prada You should credit the artisans of india who has been doing this design and craftsmanship for 100's of years. Prada why Plagiarise? We ain't asking for royalty. Dear world this is call Kohlapuri sandals/slippers. Prada — Swathi Kr Iyengar (@swathikr) June 25, 2025 Twitter: @swathikr And yeah, this isn't Prada's problem alone. We've also seen Indian dupattas suddenly pop up on Pinterest as 'Scandinavian scarves.' And some fashion brands are debuting a crop top, a flared skirt, sometimes with a matching scarf. Sounds familiar? Of course it does. That's literally just a lehenga. None of this is new to us. What's new is the way it's being renamed, resold, and rebranded, while the actual communities and artisans behind it are left out of the picture entirely. No one's saying inspiration is a crime. But if fashion wants to borrow, it also needs to acknowledge. Because when the world starts calling Kolhapuris 'toe ring sandals,' lehengas 'bridal skirts,' and dupattas 'Nordic accessories,' we lose more than credit, we lose cultural clarity. fuck your 'scandinavian scarf' it's a chunni or a dupatta. that's it. — Simran (@_simran_gill_) April 15, 2025 Twitter: @_simran_gill_ Let's be real, it totally got copied. Prada may not have said the word Kolhapuri, but anyone who grew up around desi chappals clocked it in two seconds. This isn't just 'inspiration,' it's the fashion world doing what it always does: taking something from a culture, rebranding it, and slapping a luxury price tag on it. And sure, it's cool to see Indian design on a global stage. But if you're gonna take from it, at least say its name. If Kolhapuris are good enough for Milan, they're good enough to be named.
First Post
2 days ago
- Entertainment
- First Post
How Prada Stole India's Kolhapuri Chappal Vantage on Firstpost
How Prada Stole India's Kolhapuri Chappal | Vantage on Firstpost | N18G How Prada Stole India's Kolhapuri Chappal | Vantage on Firstpost When Prada's Spring/Summer 2026 show sent tan, ring-toed sandals down the runway, Indian viewers saw something familiar — the Kolhapuri chappal. But there was no mention of its origins. Once again, Western fashion had rebranded centuries of Indian craft as 'artisanal' with no credit. From dupattas sold as Scandinavian scarves to lehengas renamed 'maxi skirts,' the pattern is clear — the West keeps taking, renaming, and profiting. Alyson le Grange tells you more. See More
The Hindu
2 days ago
- Politics
- The Hindu
Kolhapuri chappal makers cry foul over Prada's ‘replica' sandal
Kolhapuri chappal manufacturers have taken strong exception to Italian luxury fashion brand Prada's recently showcased Men's Spring/Summer 2026 collection, alleging that the featured sandals bear a striking resemblance to the traditional Kolhapuri chappals, a product granted Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Government of India. A delegation of Kolhapuri chappal manufacturers met Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis on Thursday to register their protest. Meanwhile, BJP Rajya Sabha MP Dhananjay Mahadik said that they are in the process of filing a Public Interest Litigation in the Bombay High Court against Prada. 'A team of lawyers is already working on it. This is to protect the rights of our people, to safeguard their livelihoods. I will also meet Union Minister Piyush Goyal in this regard,' Mr. Mahadik told The Hindu. Prada has come under criticism for allegedly failing to acknowledge Kolhapur's artisans as the source of inspiration for the sandal design. Nationalist Congress Party (Sharadchandra Pawar) MLA Rohit Pawar, in a post on social media platform X, stated, 'Prada's new sandal, priced approximately at ₹1 lakh, mimics Maharashtra's GI-tagged #KolhapuriChappal without crediting Kolhapur's artisans. This isn't just copying – it's cultural theft! If Prada won't respect our heritage by branding it right, the Maharashtra government must act against such #ChappalChor.' Mr. Mahadik also wrote to the Chief Minister seeking urgent intervention to 'protect the cultural heritage of Maharashtra.' In Kolhapur, the District Footwear Association convened a meeting on Thursday condemning Prada's alleged appropriation of the design. 'We will also file a criminal writ petition against Prada for this,' Bhupal Shete, a member of the association, told The Hindu. He said over 250 manufacturers and shopkeepers participated in the meeting. 'There are 20,000 artisans here in Kolhapur who make these chappals. All of us manufacturers have come together to condemn Prada. We will also send a memorandum to the Sant Rohidas Charmodyog Vikas Mahamandal to take action in this matter. We are now going to approach the District Collector, the State government, and the Union government,' Mr. Shete said. Speaking about Prada's collection, he added, 'They have called it 'leather chappals'. We have protested against it. They can't do that. We have a GI tag. They haven't acknowledged the name Kolhapuri Chappal. They should come here to buy them, not sell them at ₹1 lakh. What is the advantage to the manufacturers here? They will buy from us at ₹400–₹500 and sell at ₹1.2 lakh.' In his letter to the Chief Minister, Mr. Mahadik stated, 'I wish to draw your urgent attention to a serious infringement on Maharashtra's cultural identity and artisan rights. On 23rd June 2025, Italian fashion brand Prada S.p.A. presented its Men's Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Milan, prominently featuring sandals that strongly resemble Kolhapuri Chappals - a product awarded a GI tag by the Government of India in 2019.' The letter added that the sandals are reportedly priced at ₹1.1–₹1.2 lakh per pair (approximately €1,200), with no acknowledgment or compensation to the original artisans. 'This kind of commercial appropriation not only violates GI regulations but also threatens the livelihood and dignity of the thousands of families involved in this traditional trade. The State must act swiftly and firmly,' Mr. Mahadik's letter stated.
India Today
5 days ago
- Entertainment
- India Today
Kolhapuris walk Prada's ramp (without credit?), even as they lose ground in India
'That's our Kolhapuri Chappal. India's pride. It is our heritage.'This is the sentiment of fashion enthusiasts in India after models walked the ramp at the Prada show in Milan wearing... no surprises here... our very own Kolhapuri Chappals at the ongoing Milan Fashion the 56 looks presented at the fashion showcase, at least seven Prada Spring Summer 2026 looks were complete with Kolhapuris, India's go-to leather chappals for centuries. A no-fuss brown leather flat featuring a classic T-strap connected to a toe loop, complete with intricate embossing, cutwork and braided accents. India's Kolhapuri Chappal at Prada SS26 menswear show, but the luxury label called them 'leather sandals'. (Photos: Prada) advertisement Just these ones came embossed with the Italian luxury brand's name PRADA on the sides. These Prada Kolhapuris... errr... leather flat sandals face mixed reactions. While many are elated about the representation of an Indian fashion staple on a global level, others demand acknowledgement and due after all, cannot be the next Scandinavian scarf! Especially when this piece of our heritage comes with a GI tag and a story that goes back originsThe Kolhapuri Chappal is a traditional craft practised by cobblers of Maharashtra and Karnataka. They date back to the 12th century, during King Bijjal's rule in Bidar (Karnataka). His Prime Minister, Vishwaguru Basavanna, aimed to build a casteless society and uplift the cobbler community, which then embraced the Lingayat faith and began crafting durable, dignified 'Kolhapuri' brand emerged only in the early 20th century, when the footwear started being traded in Kolhapur, Maharashtra. Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj later promoted its production and set up 29 tanning centres in the 2019, the Controller General of Patents, Designs and Trade Marks (CGPDTM) granted the Geographical Indication (GI) tag to Kolhapuri Chappal, recognising their origin in eight districts: Kolhapur, Sangli, Solapur and Satara in Maharashtra, and Belgaum, Dharwad, Bagalkot and Bijapur in Karnataka. Kolhapuri Chappal got the GI tag in 2019. Photos: Kolhapuriwala (left) and Shopkop (right) What also sets Kolhapuri Chappals apart is that they are handmade, crafted using vegetable-tanned leather and traditional techniques and tools. The process is extremely meticulous and it takes many people as well as several days for a Kolhapuri Chappal to be they are not handmade with leather, they are not real Chappal: Functional, sturdy and forever in vogueFrom kings to the common man, Kolhapuris have been the footwear of choice beneath everyone's feet alike. The Beatles wore them too. So did many politicians. Celebrities continue to obsess over these. They are comfortable, versatile and sturdy. From heavy wedding finery to kurta-jeans combo for college, Kolhapuris go with it all. Kolhapuri Chappal has stood the test of time and continues to be a wardrobe staple. 'In a world chasing the next big trend, few designs have stood the test of time quite like the Kolhapuri Chappal with its origin tracing back to the early 13th century crafted by the Chamar community in Maharashtra. Made to endure long hours in the sun, heat, and terrain, they were functional, sturdy and resilient, much like the communities that wore them,' says Aprajita Toor, founder of eponymous footwear collaborates with artisans across Kolhapur and surrounding regions for her brands' many, Kolhapuris are not just footwear but a part of their personality. Skirt, mini skirt, skinny jeans, baggy denims, salwar kameez, a flared dress, tailored culottes, linen pants – there is nothing a Kolhapuri looks off Rebranding? Or, appropriation?advertisementBack to Prada, now. The brand did not reference Kolhapuri's Indian origin in their show note. The footwear was simply called leather sandals. However, it still stands a chance to give the credit where it is due. All eyes on when Prada lists the new collection pieces on their website.'If we say they've introduced it to the world, then yes, it's global recognition. Kolhapuris now reach the world stage, fashion weeks and luxury stores. But it also feels like cultural appropriation dressed up as luxury. If Prada collaborates with local craftsmanship, acknowledges the roots and uplifts those people, it can be a plus. Due credit should be given so it's recognised as tradition, as a cultural step,' says Sukrit Khanna, founder of footwear brand Toor says: "Real luxury is not just what you wear. It's knowing who made it, where it came from, and why it matters. The world can borrow the look, but let's not forget the lineage."As we rightly await acknowledgement from the Italian luxury label, the Kolhapuri Chappals face a bevy of challenges in its own country with many insiders fearing that the actual craft might die soon. Shortage of labour is a major concern, and so is the flooding of cheap replicas in the you think the Kolhapuri Chappals you bought from Hill Road or Sarojini Nagar for Rs 250 are actual Kolhapuris? Nope, they are not. A real Kolhapuri is made with actual leather and mostly costs somewhere between Rs 1,500 to Rs 3, there are 10 traditional patterns that are considered truly authentic, though there are now modern interpretations as shortage and other issues in Kolhapur'Those made with chemically processed leather or even synthetic material. They're often machine-made or assembled with glue, without real craftsmanship. Some add decorative, flashy elements to attract customers. But they're not authentic Kolhapuris,' explains Rahul. Artisan at work (Photo: Rahul Parasu Kamble/Shopkop) 'The natural process of making genuine Kolhapuri chappal starts with treating animal hide (skin), which takes about 3 to 4 months. In this method, no chemicals are used, only vegetable-based tanning from trees, leaves, etc. It results in soft, durable leather,' Rahul Parasu Kamble, owner of the Kolhapuri Chappal brand Shopkop, tells India adds that there is also a chemical method which is faster and only takes 10 to 15 days, but the quality is lower and can cause side effects like itching and handmade leather is significantly more expensive than the processed one. However, the leather that is handmade is the true Kolhapuri.'There are different people for each step: cutting, pressing (done by hand), stitching and braiding. Women artisans mostly handle the intricate braiding that goes into the uppers, like small plaits. From start to finish, it takes 10 to 15 days and involves 4 to 5 people per pair, usually from the same artisan family,' explains Rahul, who closely works with 30 to 40 kaarigars from villages around Kolhapur. Kolhapuri Chappal in making (Photos: Rahul Parasu Kamble/Shopkop) But the newer generations don't want to pursue the craft. The labourious process and the widespread availability of fakes are among the key reasons.'With the advent of machines and cheaper fakes, authentic artisans are decreasing. Many young people from artisan families don't want to continue, they prefer better-paying jobs,' shares Rahul. The artisans he works with are mostly elderly, a few of them in their adds how a few noted Indian brands also charge exuberant prices for Kolhapuris but don't even sell genuine chappals.'Even among them, the authenticity varies, and their prices are quite high, Rs 5,000 to Rs 6,000 for what we sell at Rs 1,500 to Rs 2,000,' he ANI report published in 2024 also highlighted the woes of labour shortage in and around Kolhapur.A shop owner in Kolhapur told the news agency how customers often bargain, wanting chappals worth a thousand rupees for just 200. 'While we offer original Kolhapuris, they prefer cheaper duplicates sold outside for 200 to 300 rupees, unaware of their real value. That's why our business isn't progressing,' he stakeholders like Rahul also offer training to new artisans to preserve the craft, and also call for greater training opportunities to keep the craft Aprajita Toor says: 'As we celebrate this iconic silhouette, we must also uplift the hands that craft it, the communities that preserve it, and the ecosystems that depend on it.'Not just Prada and other global brands, but even we as Indians should ensure that Kolhapuri chappal stands the test of time, like it has all this while.- Ends
