Kolhapuris walk Prada's ramp (without credit?), even as they lose ground in India

India Today

6 days ago

'That's our Kolhapuri Chappal. India's pride. It is our heritage.'This is the sentiment of fashion enthusiasts in India after models walked the ramp at the Prada show in Milan wearing... no surprises here... our very own Kolhapuri Chappals at the ongoing Milan Fashion Week.Of the 56 looks presented at the fashion showcase, at least seven Prada Spring Summer 2026 looks were complete with Kolhapuris, India's go-to leather chappals for centuries. A no-fuss brown leather flat featuring a classic T-strap connected to a toe loop, complete with intricate embossing, cutwork and braided accents.
India's Kolhapuri Chappal at Prada SS26 menswear show, but the luxury label called them 'leather sandals'. (Photos: Prada)
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Just these ones came embossed with the Italian luxury brand's name PRADA on the sides. These Prada Kolhapuris... errr... leather flat sandals face mixed reactions. While many are elated about the representation of an Indian fashion staple on a global level, others demand acknowledgement and due credit.This, after all, cannot be the next Scandinavian scarf! Especially when this piece of our heritage comes with a GI tag and a story that goes back generations.The originsThe Kolhapuri Chappal is a traditional craft practised by cobblers of Maharashtra and Karnataka. They date back to the 12th century, during King Bijjal's rule in Bidar (Karnataka). His Prime Minister, Vishwaguru Basavanna, aimed to build a casteless society and uplift the cobbler community, which then embraced the Lingayat faith and began crafting durable, dignified footwear.advertisementThe 'Kolhapuri' brand emerged only in the early 20th century, when the footwear started being traded in Kolhapur, Maharashtra. Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj later promoted its production and set up 29 tanning centres in the region.In 2019, the Controller General of Patents, Designs and Trade Marks (CGPDTM) granted the Geographical Indication (GI) tag to Kolhapuri Chappal, recognising their origin in eight districts: Kolhapur, Sangli, Solapur and Satara in Maharashtra, and Belgaum, Dharwad, Bagalkot and Bijapur in Karnataka.
Kolhapuri Chappal got the GI tag in 2019. Photos: Kolhapuriwala (left) and Shopkop (right)
What also sets Kolhapuri Chappals apart is that they are handmade, crafted using vegetable-tanned leather and traditional techniques and tools. The process is extremely meticulous and it takes many people as well as several days for a Kolhapuri Chappal to be made.If they are not handmade with leather, they are not real Kolhapuris.Kolhapuri Chappal: Functional, sturdy and forever in vogueFrom kings to the common man, Kolhapuris have been the footwear of choice beneath everyone's feet alike. The Beatles wore them too. So did many politicians. Celebrities continue to obsess over these. They are comfortable, versatile and sturdy. From heavy wedding finery to kurta-jeans combo for college, Kolhapuris go with it all.
Kolhapuri Chappal has stood the test of time and continues to be a wardrobe staple.
'In a world chasing the next big trend, few designs have stood the test of time quite like the Kolhapuri Chappal with its origin tracing back to the early 13th century crafted by the Chamar community in Maharashtra. Made to endure long hours in the sun, heat, and terrain, they were functional, sturdy and resilient, much like the communities that wore them,' says Aprajita Toor, founder of eponymous footwear label.She collaborates with artisans across Kolhapur and surrounding regions for her brands' offerings.For many, Kolhapuris are not just footwear but a part of their personality. Skirt, mini skirt, skinny jeans, baggy denims, salwar kameez, a flared dress, tailored culottes, linen pants – there is nothing a Kolhapuri looks off with.Representation? Rebranding? Or, appropriation?advertisementBack to Prada, now. The brand did not reference Kolhapuri's Indian origin in their show note. The footwear was simply called leather sandals. However, it still stands a chance to give the credit where it is due. All eyes on when Prada lists the new collection pieces on their website.'If we say they've introduced it to the world, then yes, it's global recognition. Kolhapuris now reach the world stage, fashion weeks and luxury stores. But it also feels like cultural appropriation dressed up as luxury. If Prada collaborates with local craftsmanship, acknowledges the roots and uplifts those people, it can be a plus. Due credit should be given so it's recognised as tradition, as a cultural step,' says Sukrit Khanna, founder of footwear brand Artimen.As Toor says: "Real luxury is not just what you wear. It's knowing who made it, where it came from, and why it matters. The world can borrow the look, but let's not forget the lineage."As we rightly await acknowledgement from the Italian luxury label, the Kolhapuri Chappals face a bevy of challenges in its own country with many insiders fearing that the actual craft might die soon. Shortage of labour is a major concern, and so is the flooding of cheap replicas in the country.advertisementDo you think the Kolhapuri Chappals you bought from Hill Road or Sarojini Nagar for Rs 250 are actual Kolhapuris? Nope, they are not. A real Kolhapuri is made with actual leather and mostly costs somewhere between Rs 1,500 to Rs 3,000.Design-wise, there are 10 traditional patterns that are considered truly authentic, though there are now modern interpretations as well.Labour shortage and other issues in Kolhapur'Those made with chemically processed leather or even synthetic material. They're often machine-made or assembled with glue, without real craftsmanship. Some add decorative, flashy elements to attract customers. But they're not authentic Kolhapuris,' explains Rahul.
Artisan at work (Photo: Rahul Parasu Kamble/Shopkop)
'The natural process of making genuine Kolhapuri chappal starts with treating animal hide (skin), which takes about 3 to 4 months. In this method, no chemicals are used, only vegetable-based tanning from trees, leaves, etc. It results in soft, durable leather,' Rahul Parasu Kamble, owner of the Kolhapuri Chappal brand Shopkop, tells India Today.advertisementHe adds that there is also a chemical method which is faster and only takes 10 to 15 days, but the quality is lower and can cause side effects like itching and allergies.The handmade leather is significantly more expensive than the processed one. However, the leather that is handmade is the true Kolhapuri.'There are different people for each step: cutting, pressing (done by hand), stitching and braiding. Women artisans mostly handle the intricate braiding that goes into the uppers, like small plaits. From start to finish, it takes 10 to 15 days and involves 4 to 5 people per pair, usually from the same artisan family,' explains Rahul, who closely works with 30 to 40 kaarigars from villages around Kolhapur.
Kolhapuri Chappal in making (Photos: Rahul Parasu Kamble/Shopkop)
But the newer generations don't want to pursue the craft. The labourious process and the widespread availability of fakes are among the key reasons.'With the advent of machines and cheaper fakes, authentic artisans are decreasing. Many young people from artisan families don't want to continue, they prefer better-paying jobs,' shares Rahul. The artisans he works with are mostly elderly, a few of them in their 70s.Rahul adds how a few noted Indian brands also charge exuberant prices for Kolhapuris but don't even sell genuine chappals.'Even among them, the authenticity varies, and their prices are quite high, Rs 5,000 to Rs 6,000 for what we sell at Rs 1,500 to Rs 2,000,' he adds.An ANI report published in 2024 also highlighted the woes of labour shortage in and around Kolhapur.A shop owner in Kolhapur told the news agency how customers often bargain, wanting chappals worth a thousand rupees for just 200. 'While we offer original Kolhapuris, they prefer cheaper duplicates sold outside for 200 to 300 rupees, unaware of their real value. That's why our business isn't progressing,' he said.Industry stakeholders like Rahul also offer training to new artisans to preserve the craft, and also call for greater training opportunities to keep the craft alive.As Aprajita Toor says: 'As we celebrate this iconic silhouette, we must also uplift the hands that craft it, the communities that preserve it, and the ecosystems that depend on it.'Not just Prada and other global brands, but even we as Indians should ensure that Kolhapuri chappal stands the test of time, like it has all this while.- Ends