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Finally, Another Woman Designer Gets a Big Brand
Finally, Another Woman Designer Gets a Big Brand

Observer

time21-07-2025

  • Business
  • Observer

Finally, Another Woman Designer Gets a Big Brand

In the latest move in the unprecedented realignment of the fashion world, Meryll Rogge was appointed creative director of Marni on Tuesday. She will be responsible for womenswear, menswear, accessories, store design and communications, replacing Francesco Risso, who left the Italian brand last month after almost 10 years. Rogge is the 17th new designer named to a big brand since mid-2024, but only the fourth woman. It's a striking imbalance in an industry that is still largely powered by womenswear and accessories, and one that was quick to pay lip service to diversity in recent years but has seemed to retreat from many of its pledges in terms of gender and race. Rogge will become the sole female designer in the stable of OTB, the holding company that also owns Maison Margiela, Jil Sander, Diesel and Viktor & Rolf and that reported sales of 1.7 billion euros in 2024, down 4% from 2023. Similarly, Louise Trotter, who will make her debut at Bottega Veneta in September, is the only female fashion designer at Kering, the luxury group that owns Gucci, Balenciaga and Saint Laurent, among other brands. The other two women who became creative directors of major fashion houses this year are Sarah Burton at Givenchy and Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein. In a news release, Marni CEO Stefano Rosso called Rogge 'an exceptional creative talent and an inspiring woman.' A Belgian designer who started her career at Marc Jacobs before becoming head of women's design at Dries Van Noten and founding a namesake brand in 2020, Rogge, 40, shares a certain quirky practicality with Marni's founder, Consuelo Castiglioni. It was Castiglioni who transformed her husband's family fur company into a runway name beloved of bohemian intellectuals and art gallerists with a messy bent. In 2012, OTB bought a majority stake in the company, acquiring it fully in 2015. The next year, Castiglioni left, citing personal reasons, and Risso was named creative director. Though Risso's collections could be eye-poppingly imaginative, bristling with three-dimensional metal flowers or covered in what looked like finger paint, they could also seem self-indulgent — fun to look at but hard to wear. Rogge, who is relatively unknown outside the fashion world, became the first woman to be named designer of the year at the Belgian Fashion Awards in 2024 and was the recipient of the Andam Prize earlier this year, one of fashion's most prestigious awards. In explaining the selection, Guillaume Houzé, the president of Andam, cited Rogge's ability to turn 'ambiguity, hybridity and the unexpected into allies.' Like Castiglioni, she is also adept at marrying the conceptual to the commercial and has an affinity for color and the sort of print combinations that are alluring in their oddity. In the news release, Rogge called joining Marni 'both humbling and inspiring.' A spokesperson for Marni did not specify when Rogge would unveil her first collection. She did say, however, that the designer planned to maintain her own line and split her time between the two brands. Multitasking, as it were. —NYT

Galeries Lafayette Dubai Makes Indulgence the Season's Best Accessory
Galeries Lafayette Dubai Makes Indulgence the Season's Best Accessory

Harpers Bazaar Arabia

time21-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Harpers Bazaar Arabia

Galeries Lafayette Dubai Makes Indulgence the Season's Best Accessory

Because sometimes, the most tasteful thing you can do is take your time. If you're looking for a reason to spend a little extra time at The Dubai Mall this summer, Galeries Lafayette just gave you one. The iconic department store has launched Tasteful, a multi-sensory in-store campaign that runs until the end of July – and it's as stylish as it is smartly curated. Designed to celebrate the art of indulgence, Tasteful is about taking a moment to enjoy the finer things – whether that's discovering a new signature scent, investing in a standout piece for the season, or slowing down for lunch somewhere that actually feels worth it. With surreal visual installations, experiential beauty stations, and personal styling zones dotted throughout the space, the campaign invites visitors to explore fashion, fragrance, and food in a way that feels fresh and effortless. The fashion edit is a highlight. Think Marni, Coperni, Cult Gaia, Ganni and more – designers who know how to strike the balance between directional and wearable. It's not about head-to-toe looks, it's about mixing and matching standout pieces that speak to your personal style. From oversized silhouettes to structured tailoring, the focus is on confidence and individuality. Beauty lovers won't be left behind either. The fragrance and skincare selection spans everything from cult favourites like Kilian, Fugazzi, and Maison Crivelli to the newly launched Prada Beauty. It's less about the hard sell, more about playful discovery – and the kind of in-store experience that reminds you why beauty shopping used to be fun. Of course, all of this is best enjoyed with a break in between. That's where Le Gourmet comes in, Galeries Lafayette's dedicated food hall on the second floor. It's the kind of space that makes it easy to turn a quick shop into a full-day affair before hitting the next edit. Even the practical details have been thought through. With digital gift cards and same-day delivery available across the UAE, Galeries Lafayette makes it easy to shop on your own terms whether you're browsing in-store or sending a last-minute gift to someone else. If you're after an excuse to treat yourself this season – this is it.

Who is Meryll Rogge, the under-the-radar fashion designer now heading Marni?
Who is Meryll Rogge, the under-the-radar fashion designer now heading Marni?

The Star

time21-07-2025

  • Business
  • The Star

Who is Meryll Rogge, the under-the-radar fashion designer now heading Marni?

Meryll Rogge, who is relatively unknown outside the fashion world, became the first woman to be named designer of the year at the Belgian Fashion Awards in 2024. Photo: Instagram/Marni In the latest move in the unprecedented realignment of the fashion world, Meryll Rogge was appointed creative director of Marni last week. She will be responsible for womenswear, menswear, accessories, store design and communications, replacing Francesco Risso, who left the Italian brand last month after almost 10 years. Rogge is the 17th new designer named to a big brand since mid-2024, but only the fourth woman. It's a striking imbalance in an industry that is still largely powered by womenswear and accessories, and one that was quick to pay lip service to diversity in recent years, but has seemed to retreat from many of its pledges in terms of gender and race. Rogge will become the sole female designer in the stable of OTB, the holding company that also owns Maison Margiela, Jil Sander, Diesel and Viktor & Rolf and that reported sales of €1.7bil (approximately RM8.4bil) in 2024, down 4% from 2023. Similarly, Louise Trotter, who will make her debut at Bottega Veneta in September, is the only female fashion designer at Kering, the luxury group that owns Gucci, Balenciaga and Saint Laurent, among other brands. Read more: All eyes on fashion provocateur Demna as he attempts to revive Gucci's fortunes The other two women who became creative directors of major fashion houses this year are Sarah Burton at Givenchy and Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein. In a news release, Marni CEO Stefano Rosso called Rogge 'an exceptional creative talent and an inspiring woman'. A Belgian designer who started her career at Marc Jacobs before becoming head of women's design at Dries Van Noten and founding a namesake brand in 2020, Rogge, 40, shares a certain quirky practicality with Marni's founder, Consuelo Castiglioni. It was Castiglioni who transformed her husband's family fur company into a runway name beloved of bohemian intellectuals and art gallerists with a messy bent. In 2012, OTB bought a majority stake in the company, acquiring it fully in 2015. The next year, Castiglioni left, citing personal reasons, and Risso was named creative director. Though Risso's collections could be eye-poppingly imaginative, bristling with three-dimensional metal flowers or covered in what looked like finger paint, they could also seem self-indulgent – fun to look at, but hard to wear. Rogge, who is relatively unknown outside the fashion world, became the first woman to be named designer of the year at the Belgian Fashion Awards in 2024 and was the recipient of the Andam Prize earlier this year, one of fashion's most prestigious awards. Read more: Why is Jonathan Anderson's first Dior show at Paris Fashion Week so significant? In explaining the selection, Guillaume Houze, the president of Andam, cited Rogge's ability to turn 'ambiguity, hybridity and the unexpected into allies'. Like Castiglioni, she is also adept at marrying the conceptual to the commercial, and has an affinity for colour and the sort of print combinations that are alluring in their oddity. In the news release, Rogge called joining Marni 'both humbling and inspiring'. A spokesperson for Marni did not specify when Rogge would unveil her first collection. She did say, however, that the designer planned to maintain her own line and split her time between the two brands. Multitasking, as it were. – ©2025 The New York Times Company This article originally appeared in The New York Times.

Marni's Meryll Rogge Era Begins & Loro Piana Labor Abuses Revealed in This Week's Top Fashion News
Marni's Meryll Rogge Era Begins & Loro Piana Labor Abuses Revealed in This Week's Top Fashion News

Hypebeast

time19-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Hypebeast

Marni's Meryll Rogge Era Begins & Loro Piana Labor Abuses Revealed in This Week's Top Fashion News

Marnihas officially named Belgian designerMeryll Roggeas its new Creative Director, followingFrancesco Risso's departure. Rogge, the 2025ANDAMGrand Prize winner with prior experience atMarc JacobsandDries Van Noten, expressed her honor in joining Marni, a brand she has 'long admired for its independent spirit'. Since founding her own brand in 2020, Rogge has gained recognition for her distinct blend of vintage whimsy and contemporary craftsmanship. OTB Chairman Renzo Rosso praised Rogge's ability to reinterpret Marni's DNA with a contemporary vision that spans all brand dimensions, including accessories and interior design. LVMH-ownedLoro Pianahas been placed under court administration for a year by a Milan court following the severe beating of a worker who demanded unpaid wages at a subcontracted workshop. Investigations revealed the facility, which produced Loro Piana cashmere, employed undocumented migrant workers forced to work up to 90 hours weekly for €4 an hour and housed illegally. Loro Piana stated it was unaware of the subcontractors' violations and terminated ties with the supplier. This case is part of a broader crackdown on labor exploitation in the luxury sector, with other brands likeArmani,Dior, andValentinoalso facing similar scrutiny. The incident underscores ongoing injustices against laborers in the global apparel supply chain, despite high retail prices for luxury goods. Matthieu Blazywill present his first Métiers d'Arts collection forChanelin New York City on December 2, 2025. The presentation will spotlight the artistry of Chanel's Paris ateliers and pay homage toKarl Lagerfeld's final 2018 show — also held in New York. Blazy's New York City debut is set to mark Chanel's return to the city since Lagerfeld's passing. Bruno Pavlovsky, President of Chanel SAS, expressed excitement for Blazy's return to New York, stating he will blend the city's creative energy with Chanel's savoir-faire. Blazy has a history in New York, having worked underRaf SimonsatCalvin Klein. A visual teaser, showing a double C logo over a vintage subway map, suggests a tribute to both New York's culture and Lagerfeld's legacy. Chanel has not yet shared an official date for the runway presentation Following his departure fromGivenchy,Matthew M. Williamshas officially introduced his eponymous project, reclaiming his independence as a creative force. The label, which he calls a 'project' rather than a 'brand,' focuses on crafting high-quality, wearable staples with intrinsic value, transcending trend-driven design and market pressures. After two decades in the industry, Williams now moves towards a more personal expression, distinct from both Givenchy's corporate demands andALYX's specific streetwear aesthetic. Showing a more mature, minimalist approach, the designer highlights raw materiality and precise construction, unburdened by established brand codes. The collection includes collaborations with specialty workshops, resulting in consciously crafted pieces like Japanese denim and sturdy white tees. Jil Sander's new creative director,Simone Bellotti, has unveiled his inaugural project for the fashion house: a captivating music video titled 'WANDERLUST'. The audiovisual project, featuring ethereal electronic compositions by Italian artist Bochum Welt (Gianluigi Di Costanzo), made its premiere on Instagram. Filmed in Hamburg, Germany, the music video conveys 'a wanderlust tale happening in an everyday setting, drifting between worlds and opposites'. In an interview withVogue, Bellotti shared his perspective on Jil Sander, describing it as a brand with 'definite style' and a 'complex house' that skillfully balances classicism, modernity, and lightness. This 'WANDERLUST' music video serves as a compelling prelude to his highly anticipated formal debut collection, which is slated to be presented at Milan Fashion Week this September. Acne Studioshas launched an impressive three-story flagship store in Tokyo's Aoyama district, directly oppositePrada's existing boutique. A joint effort between Creative Director Jonny Johansson and design firm Halleroed, the expansive space offers an immersive experience inspired by Tokyo's urban fabric and the brand's affinity for Japan. Blending brutalist aesthetics and refined minimalism, Acne Studios' signature pink granite is used on walls, flooring, and various furnishings. The store prioritizes an artistic atmosphere, with custom seating by Max Lamb, unique lighting by Benoit Lalloz, and expressive mannequins by Daniel Silver. Johansson also collaborated with Japanese ceramicist Takuro Kuwata, whose ceramic objects are displayed, and who created an exclusive, limited-edition capsule collection of reinterpreted Acne Studios denim for the opening.

Who is Meryll Rogge? The new creative director at Marni
Who is Meryll Rogge? The new creative director at Marni

Fashion United

time16-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Fashion United

Who is Meryll Rogge? The new creative director at Marni

After several years behind the scenes, Meryll Rogge is stepping into the spotlight. The Belgian designer recently won the Grand Prize of the Andam Awards. She is now taking on the role of creative director at Italian fashion house Marni. Here's a brief overview of what you need to know about Rogge. All about new Marni's new creative director Meryll Rogge Rogge studied fashion at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp from 2005 to 2008. She also studied law in Namur from 2002 to 2004, where she obtained her bachelor's degree. Prior to her fashion studies, she interned at Marc Jacobs. Rogge's internship at Marc Jacobs proved fruitful. After her internship, she stayed on as an assistant designer. She later progressed to womenswear designer, as she told Elle Belgium in 2022. After seven years, she returned to Belgium to become head of womenswear at Dries Van Noten. In 2020, she founded her own eponymous brand. 'It felt like a now-or-never moment. I just had to try. As valuable as it is to work for and learn from others, I was done compromising,' Rogge said in the interview with Elle Belgium. Rogge takes over as the new creative director of Marni In July 2025, she was announced as the new creative director for Italian fashion house Marni. OTB (Marni's parent company) CEO Renzo Rosso said of the appointment: 'We spoke to many strong candidates, but Rogge won us over. She reinterprets Marni's DNA with a sensitive and contemporary eye that encompasses all facets of the brand, from fashion to accessories and communication. I wish her every success in this new role.' Stefano Rosso, CEO of Marni, is also looking forward to the collaboration: 'Rogge is an exceptionally creative talent and an inspiring woman. Her vision and experience will play a key role in Marni's future.' Text continues below the images. Meryll Rogge SS23 Credits: Meryll Rogge / photo by Vadim Kovigra Meryll Rogge SS23. Credits: Meryll Rogge / photo by Vadim Kovigra Meryll Rogge AW24. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight. Meryll Rogge AW25. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight. Rogge's style is characterised by a mix of classic women's evening wear and menswear tailoring, combined with bold and unexpected combinations. This mix creates a contemporary look. Her work appears youthful and joyful. Text continues below the image. Meryll Rogge wins the Designer of the Year Award at the Belgian Fashion Awards in 2024. Credits: J. Van Belle Awards 2021 - Emerging Talent of the Year, Belgian Fashion Awards 2022 - Semi-finalist, LVMH Award 2024 - Finalist, International Woolmark Prize 2024 - Finalist, Andam Award 2024 - Designer of the Year, Belgian Fashion Awards 2025 - Grand Prize, Andam Award This article was translated to English using an AI tool. FashionUnited uses AI language tools to speed up translating (news) articles and proofread the translations to improve the end result. This saves our human journalists time they can spend doing research and writing original articles. Articles translated with the help of AI are checked and edited by a human desk editor prior to going online. If you have questions or comments about this process email us at info@

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