
Finally, Another Woman Designer Gets a Big Brand
Rogge is the 17th new designer named to a big brand since mid-2024, but only the fourth woman.
It's a striking imbalance in an industry that is still largely powered by womenswear and accessories, and one that was quick to pay lip service to diversity in recent years but has seemed to retreat from many of its pledges in terms of gender and race.
Rogge will become the sole female designer in the stable of OTB, the holding company that also owns Maison Margiela, Jil Sander, Diesel and Viktor & Rolf and that reported sales of 1.7 billion euros in 2024, down 4% from 2023.
Similarly, Louise Trotter, who will make her debut at Bottega Veneta in September, is the only female fashion designer at Kering, the luxury group that owns Gucci, Balenciaga and Saint Laurent, among other brands. The other two women who became creative directors of major fashion houses this year are Sarah Burton at Givenchy and Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein.
In a news release, Marni CEO Stefano Rosso called Rogge 'an exceptional creative talent and an inspiring woman.'
A Belgian designer who started her career at Marc Jacobs before becoming head of women's design at Dries Van Noten and founding a namesake brand in 2020, Rogge, 40, shares a certain quirky practicality with Marni's founder, Consuelo Castiglioni.
It was Castiglioni who transformed her husband's family fur company into a runway name beloved of bohemian intellectuals and art gallerists with a messy bent. In 2012, OTB bought a majority stake in the company, acquiring it fully in 2015. The next year, Castiglioni left, citing personal reasons, and Risso was named creative director.
Though Risso's collections could be eye-poppingly imaginative, bristling with three-dimensional metal flowers or covered in what looked like finger paint, they could also seem self-indulgent — fun to look at but hard to wear.
Rogge, who is relatively unknown outside the fashion world, became the first woman to be named designer of the year at the Belgian Fashion Awards in 2024 and was the recipient of the Andam Prize earlier this year, one of fashion's most prestigious awards.
In explaining the selection, Guillaume Houzé, the president of Andam, cited Rogge's ability to turn 'ambiguity, hybridity and the unexpected into allies.' Like Castiglioni, she is also adept at marrying the conceptual to the commercial and has an affinity for color and the sort of print combinations that are alluring in their oddity.
In the news release, Rogge called joining Marni 'both humbling and inspiring.'
A spokesperson for Marni did not specify when Rogge would unveil her first collection. She did say, however, that the designer planned to maintain her own line and split her time between the two brands. Multitasking, as it were. —NYT
Hashtags

Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles


Observer
2 days ago
- Observer
Finally, Another Woman Designer Gets a Big Brand
In the latest move in the unprecedented realignment of the fashion world, Meryll Rogge was appointed creative director of Marni on Tuesday. She will be responsible for womenswear, menswear, accessories, store design and communications, replacing Francesco Risso, who left the Italian brand last month after almost 10 years. Rogge is the 17th new designer named to a big brand since mid-2024, but only the fourth woman. It's a striking imbalance in an industry that is still largely powered by womenswear and accessories, and one that was quick to pay lip service to diversity in recent years but has seemed to retreat from many of its pledges in terms of gender and race. Rogge will become the sole female designer in the stable of OTB, the holding company that also owns Maison Margiela, Jil Sander, Diesel and Viktor & Rolf and that reported sales of 1.7 billion euros in 2024, down 4% from 2023. Similarly, Louise Trotter, who will make her debut at Bottega Veneta in September, is the only female fashion designer at Kering, the luxury group that owns Gucci, Balenciaga and Saint Laurent, among other brands. The other two women who became creative directors of major fashion houses this year are Sarah Burton at Givenchy and Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein. In a news release, Marni CEO Stefano Rosso called Rogge 'an exceptional creative talent and an inspiring woman.' A Belgian designer who started her career at Marc Jacobs before becoming head of women's design at Dries Van Noten and founding a namesake brand in 2020, Rogge, 40, shares a certain quirky practicality with Marni's founder, Consuelo Castiglioni. It was Castiglioni who transformed her husband's family fur company into a runway name beloved of bohemian intellectuals and art gallerists with a messy bent. In 2012, OTB bought a majority stake in the company, acquiring it fully in 2015. The next year, Castiglioni left, citing personal reasons, and Risso was named creative director. Though Risso's collections could be eye-poppingly imaginative, bristling with three-dimensional metal flowers or covered in what looked like finger paint, they could also seem self-indulgent — fun to look at but hard to wear. Rogge, who is relatively unknown outside the fashion world, became the first woman to be named designer of the year at the Belgian Fashion Awards in 2024 and was the recipient of the Andam Prize earlier this year, one of fashion's most prestigious awards. In explaining the selection, Guillaume Houzé, the president of Andam, cited Rogge's ability to turn 'ambiguity, hybridity and the unexpected into allies.' Like Castiglioni, she is also adept at marrying the conceptual to the commercial and has an affinity for color and the sort of print combinations that are alluring in their oddity. In the news release, Rogge called joining Marni 'both humbling and inspiring.' A spokesperson for Marni did not specify when Rogge would unveil her first collection. She did say, however, that the designer planned to maintain her own line and split her time between the two brands. Multitasking, as it were. —NYT


Observer
2 days ago
- Observer
Oman ingredients power a unique Portuguese-Italian culinary collaboration
In today's competitive culinary world, diners are increasingly seeking more than just exotic flavours—they crave authenticity, quality, and a narrative behind every plate. As a result, the importance of selecting the finest ingredients has never been more critical in determining the success of a restaurant, especially those vying for or holding Michelin stars. Michelin's assessment extends beyond aesthetics or service; the organisation's inspectors place significant emphasis on the quality of ingredients used, recognising that supreme produce forms the foundation of remarkable dishes. This shift towards ingredient-driven excellence has led chefs worldwide to seek out unique, high-grade produce to craft memorable, authentic, and innovative dishes. It's within this context that Oman is emerging as a noteworthy player, thanks to its rich culinary larder rooted in pristine seas, fertile lands, and traditional harvesting techniques. The recent collaboration hosted by Mandarin Oriental Muscat vividly showcased this potential—combining Portuguese and Italian culinary traditions with the unique, high-calibre ingredients sourced from Oman, highlighting their place on the international gastronomic stage. The event, a four-hands dinner featuring Chef José Barroso of Dubai's Michelin-starred Tasca by José Avillez and Essenza's own Chef Davide Borin, was more than just a celebration of Mediterranean flavours; it was a testament to Oman's rising prominence as an ingredient hotspot. The five-course menu, which masterfully fused Portuguese and Italian culinary influences with local Omani produce, demonstrated how Oman's ingredients could elevate dishes from simple to spectacular, earning their rightful place in high-end, globally recognised cuisine. Oman ingredients power a unique Portuguese-Italian culinary collaboration Oman ingredients power a unique Portuguese-Italian culinary collaboration Oman ingredients power a unique Portuguese-Italian culinary collaboration The collaboration bridged two culinary traditions that, while geographically close, are distinct in their flavours and ingredients. Portuguese cuisine is distinguished predominantly by its love of seafood—salted cod (bacalhau), sardines, and shellfish—highlighting Portugal's maritime history and the Atlantic coast's bounty. Its dishes typically balance sweet, sour, and savoury elements; ingredients like olive oil, garlic, citrus, and dried herbs offer a rustic yet refined profile. Italian cuisine, on the other hand, celebrates seasonal produce and regional diversity. Northern Italy cherishes butter, rice, and cheeses, with dishes boasting subtlety and richness, while Southern Italy leans into bold, garlic-infused, spicy dishes often featuring seafood—an echo of its Mediterranean surroundings. The Italian approach emphasizes simplicity and ingredient integrity, allowing fresh produce like tomatoes, basil, and olive oil to shine. The event's exciting narrative lay in the seamless integration of these culinary philosophies, united through Oman's exceptional ingredients—seafood, herbs, and spices that poignantly framed traditional dishes from both countries. Here, Oman's offerings proved not just compatible but pivotal to the experience. Oman ingredients power a unique Portuguese-Italian culinary collaboration Oman ingredients power a unique Portuguese-Italian culinary collaboration Oman ingredients power a unique Portuguese-Italian culinary collaboration The Seas of a Hidden Culinary Powerhouse Oman's geographical position endows it with some of the most pristine waters for seafood in the world. The Arabian Sea and theIndian Ocean surrounding Oman provide a diverse bounty—lobster, octopus, king prawns, sardines, and tuna—that are not only integral to local diets but also coveted globally. Omani seafood is renowned for its freshness, quality, and distinctive flavour, thanks to sustainable harvesting practices and traditional fishing communities. According to sources from the Oman Food & Beverage sector, the country's seafood exports have been steadily increasing, reaching markets in Asia, Europe, and the Middle East. The quality of Oman's marine produce has attracted attention from international chefs seeking premium ingredients, particularly for fine dining establishments that value consistency and authenticity. Beyond seafood, Oman's spice trade—centred historically around ports like Muscat—has contributed aromatic herbs and spices such as cardamom, cumin, and coriander to the culinary landscape. These ingredients, often harvested from local farms or imported from the Indian Subcontinent, add depth and complexity to dishes, further raising Oman's profile as an ingredient hub. The culinary journey curated during the event was a reflection of Oman's versatility. The five-course menu was an intentional 'trifecta'—blending Portuguese marine staples, Italian rustic traditions, and Oman's fresh ingredients. Notable highlights included Omani lobster used in the pasta 'Allo Scoglio,' showcasing how locally sourced seafood could elevate Mediterranean dishes. The Wagyu Picanha complemented with Omani black beans and rice subtly integrated local produce into a Portuguese comfort-food classic. Oman ingredients power a unique Portuguese-Italian culinary collaboration Oman ingredients power a unique Portuguese-Italian culinary collaboration Oman ingredients power a unique Portuguese-Italian culinary collaboration Each dish showcased the distinct role of Oman's ingredients, not merely as supplementary elements but as integral to the dish's flavour profile and authenticity. The freshness of Oman's seafood lent a richness and vibrancy that no imported or frozen produce could replicate, and homemade herbs and spices added layers of complexity. Mastering the Art of Local Ingredients The chefs involved expressed great admiration for Oman's produce. Chef Barroso highlighted the importance of sourcing local ingredients to truly capture authenticity. 'Using Oman's seafood gave our dishes a vibrancy and freshness that transformed the menu,' he remarked. Chef Borin echoed this sentiment, emphasising how Oman's ingredients allowed for a more refined balance of flavours, echoing the Mediterranean's love of simplicity combined with top-tier produce. For the chefs, working with Oman's bounty isn't just about ingredient quality; it's a cultural experience. 'Every piece of seafood, herb, or spice tells a story of Oman's maritime history, traditional practices, and sustainable harvesting,' said Chef Borin. 'Integrating these elements into European culinary traditions elevates the dishes and creates a genuine taste of the region's potential.' This event showcased more than just fine dishes; it symbolised Oman's growing status as a regional hub for high-quality ingredients that can compete on the world stage. While Oman has traditionally been recognised for its natural beauty and hospitality, its culinary sector is now poised for international recognition—provided the country continues to invest in quality sourcing, sustainable practices, and culinary innovation. To align itself with the global culinary elite, Oman can leverage its freshwater sources, strategic location, and traditional fishing techniques to produce more export-quality ingredients. Building partnerships with local farmers, fishermen, and artisanal producers can revamp the country's reputation from a gastronomic perspective, much like its neighbouring Gulf countries that are increasingly becoming culinary hotspots. The recent collaboration at Mandarin Oriental Muscat vividly demonstrated that Oman's ingredients hold extraordinary potential for elevating the world's most refined dishes. From the pristine waters spawning vibrant seafood to aromatic spices nurtured along historic trade routes, Oman provides a treasure trove of flavours that are both authentic and sophisticated.


Observer
3 days ago
- Observer
France museum-goer eats million-dollar banana taped to wall
A visitor to a French museum bit into a fresh banana worth millions of dollars taped to a wall last week, exhibitors said on Friday, in the latest such consumption of the conceptual artwork. Italian artist Maurizio Cattelan -- whose provocative creation entitled "Comedian" was bought for $6.2 million in New York last year -- said he was disappointed the person did not also eat the skin and the tape. After the hungry visitor struck on Saturday last week, "security staff rapidly and calmly intervened," the Pompidou-Metz museum in eastern France said. The work was "reinstalled within minutes", it added. "As the fruit is perishable, it is regularly replaced according to instructions from the artist." Cattelan noted the banana-eater had "confused the fruit for the work of art". "Instead of eating the banana with its skin and duct tape, the visitor just consumed the fruit," he said. Cattelan's edible creation has sparked controversy ever since it made its debut at the 2019 Art Basel show in Miami Beach. He has explained the banana work as a commentary on the art market, which he has criticised in the past for being speculative and failing to help artists. The New York Post said the asking price of $120,000 for "Comedian" in 2019 was evidence that the market was "bananas" and the art world had "gone mad". It has been eaten before. Performance artist David Datuna ate "Comedian" in 2019, saying he felt "hungry" while inspecting it at the Miami show. Chinese-born crypto founder Justin Sun last year forked out $6.2 million for the work, then ate it in front of cameras. As well as his banana work, Cattelan is also known for producing an 18-carat, fully functioning gold toilet called "America" that was offered to Donald Trump during his first term in the White House. A British court in March found two men guilty of stealing it during an exhibition in 2020 in the United Kingdom, from an 18th-century stately home that was the birthplace of wartime prime minister Winston Churchill. It was split up into parts and none of the gold was ever recovered. —AFP