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Otago Daily Times
3 days ago
- Health
- Otago Daily Times
FODMAP fixes
Chrissy Glentis believes everyone deserves to enjoy delicious meals without the stress of complex recipes or hard-to-find ingredients. That is especially true for people following a low-FODMAP diet and she aims to make that journey not only manageable but enjoyable. "It's hard to eat out, it's tough to figure out, and it can honestly be quite frustrating." The low-FODMAP diet was developed by researchers at Monash University in Australia to help with gastrointestinal disorders such as irritable bowel syndrome (IBS). FODMAPs are a group of short-chain carbohydrates and sugar alcohols found in various foods that can be difficult for some people to digest. "My goal has always been to take the stress out of eating and to help people on a low-FODMAP diet enjoy food again — in all aspects, the eating, the cooking, the flavour." Glentis, who has lived with fructose malabsorption and lactose intolerance since she was 19 and has her own low-FODMAP-food business, has always focused on food that tastes good so that no-one will know it is low-FODMAP, gluten-free, dairy-free and allergy friendly. In her cookbook Always Delicious, Low-FODMAP Kitchen Glentis includes recipes for many classic dishes that are typically laden with onion, garlic and other high-FODMAP ingredients and tweaks them so people can continue to enjoy them using ingredients like garlic-infused olive oil, low-FODMAP stock cubes and tinned rather than dried beans. As many fruits and vegetables are only low-FODMAP in certain amounts, accurate kitchen scales are a must-have. So her recipes are formulated to be low-FODMAP on a per serve basis. She includes tables of common ingredients and their safe low-FODMAP serving to assist those on the diet. The book Images and text from Always Delicious Low-FODMAP Kitchen by Chrissy Glentis, photography by Armelle Habib. Murdoch Books, RRP $45. One-pan lemon and olive chicken This recipe is perfect for busy weeknights when you want a wholesome, flavoursome meal without the fuss. Juicy, tender chicken thighs are seasoned to perfection and cooked with lemon, which infuses a bright, tangy flavour. I love to serve it with rice or quinoa, but it can really be served with any pasta or grain you like. Serves 4 Egg, gluten, soy free Ingredients 2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 500g skinless, boneless chicken thighs ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp black pepper 1 Tbsp garlic-infused olive oil 1 cup (250ml) water or Low-FODMAP chicken stock 1 low-FODMAP chicken stock cube (omit if using chicken stock) 1 tsp dried chives 1 tsp dried oregano ¼ cup (60ml) milk of your choice ½ lemon, sliced into 5mm thick rounds 1 Tbsp soft brown sugar ¼ cup (45g) whole green olives ¼ tsp ground cumin 1½ Tbsp cornflour (cornstarch) mixed with ¼ cup (60ml) cold water fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, to garnish (optional) Method Preheat the oven to 180˚C. Heat the oil in a deep, ovenproof frying pan (see tip) over medium high heat and brown the chicken with the salt and pepper. Once browned, add all the other ingredients, except the parsley, to the pan and cover with the lid or aluminium foil. Bake for 20 minutes. Serve with your choice of cooked pasta or grains and top with parsley, if you like. Enjoy straight away or store in the fridge for up to 3 days, or in portions in the freezer for up to 3 months. For the best results, allow to thaw overnight in the fridge, then heat in the microwave for 2-3 minutes, stirring halfway through, until evenly heated. You can also reheat it from frozen in the microwave for 4-6 minutes. Tip: If you don't have an ovenproof frying pan, simply brown the chicken in a regular frying pan, then transfer to an ovenproof dish or roasting tin. Low-FODMAP chicken stock Makes 4 cups (1 litre) Dairy, egg, gluten, lactose, nut, soy free Ingredients 1kg chicken carcass 200g carrot, quartered 50g fennel 50g fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley 3 bay leaves 1 tsp whole black peppercorns 40g spring onion (scallion) tops, green parts only 2 tsp dried or fresh rosemary 1 tsp dried or fresh thyme 1 tsp salt 2 tsp apple-cider vinegar 2 tsp garlic-infused olive oil (optional) Method Add all the ingredients to a stockpot and cover with cold water, about 2cm above the ingredients. Bring to the boil over medium-high heat, discarding any foam that forms on the surface, then reduce the heat to low and simmer gently, uncovered, for 3 hours. If it bubbles too rapidly, it will reduce the liquid too much and the stock will be murky instead of nice and clear, so keep an eye on it and top up the water if needed. Drain through a sieve or colander into a large bowl or pot to catch all the beautiful stock. Allow the stock to cool slightly before portioning (if not using right away). I find it's easiest to store this in 1 cup (250ml) quantities. Store in the fridge for up to 5 days or in portions in the freezer for up to 3 months. If using in soups or hot meals, simply add from frozen or defrost in the microwave for 1-2 minutes (it defrosts rather quickly). Faux-lafel burger with roasted vegetables and grilled halloumi This recipe uses the faux-lafels below. Simply grill or roast vegetables of your choice (I like to use eggplant/aubergine and pumpkin/squash) in the oven or on your barbecue, fry some halloumi cheese and your life will never be the same again! This is also great with kale pesto. Serves 6 Egg, nut, soy free Ingredients 1 eggplant (aubergine), cut into 1cm-thick rounds 150g kabocha (Japanese) pumpkin (squash), cut into 1cm-thick slices ⅓-½ cup (80-120ml) extra-virgin olive oil 300g halloumi cheese, cut into 5mm-thick slices ⅓ cup (about 60g) kale pesto (optional) 6 burger buns of your choice 1 cup (35g) rocket (arugula) 6 faux-lafel patties, cooked (see below) ⅓ cup whole-egg mayonnaise salt and black pepper, to taste Method Preheat the oven to 180˚C or the barbecue to high heat. Place the eggplant and pumpkin on baking trays and drizzle half of the oil on top. Season with salt and pepper and roast for 15-20 minutes, or until cooked through. If you're using the barbecue, toss the vegetables in the oil, salt and pepper in a large bowl and grill for 3-4 minutes on each side. Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low and add the halloumi slices. Fry for 1-2 minutes on each side or until golden brown. The halloumi will soften as it cooks, so be careful when removing it. Serve the halloumi as hot as possible, as it will harden as it cools and lose that delicious soft, gooey texture. Spread some kale pesto (if using) on the bottom half of the burger buns, then top with a faux-lafel patty, some roasted pumpkin and eggplant, the freshly grilled halloumi and some rocket. Spread some mayo on the top half of the bun and sandwich together. Tip: You can make the faux-lafel patties ahead of time and also roast the vegetables the day before for an even quicker meal. Faux-lafels Traditional falafels are made with chickpeas or beans and are too high in FODMAPs, so I created this recipe, which is not only low-FODMAP but possibly even better than the original! This is my sister's favourite dish, and when she heard I was writing a cookbook, her first question was, "will the falafels be in it?" She loves them because these falafels aren't dry like traditional chickpea ones can be. By using potato instead of legumes, these falafels are soft and fluffy, yet still have the authentic flavour of the ones we know and love. I have two different serving options to show just how versatile these are. You can shape them into balls or patties and even fry them in a little oil if you want a crunchier, more authentic exterior. You can also use them in wraps, add them to your favourite salad or even serve as an appetiser with tzatziki. Serves 4 Dairy, egg, gluten, nut, soy free Ingredients 700g potatoes, peeled and cut into 2cm (¾ in) dice 50g pepitas (pumpkin seeds) 3 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp sweet paprika 1 Tbsp dried chives 3 Tbsp dried parsley 1 Tbsp garlic-infused olive oil 1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil ½ tsp salt ½ tsp black pepper Method Put the potato in a stockpot and add enough cold salted water to cover the potato by 2cm. Bring to the boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium and boil for 15-20 minutes, or until the potato can be easily pierced with a fork. Drain and allow to cool slightly before mashing. Blitz the pepitas in a blender until finely crushed, then add to the mashed potato along with all the other ingredients and mix well to combine. Preheat the oven to 200˚C. While the oven is heating, divide the mixture into six balls and shape into patties (see tips). Place on a baking tray lined with baking paper and bake for 5-10 minutes on each side until golden brown. The falafels can be frozen for up to 4 months. Just add some baking paper between each one to prevent them from freezing in one lump. Leave to thaw in the fridge overnight, or microwave for 2-3 minutes. Tips: You can shape these into balls if you prefer a more authentic shape. Shallow-fry the patties instead of cooking in the oven for a crispy, golden finish. No-bake lemon curd and lemon meringue cheesecake Indulge in the exquisite blend of tangy and sweet with this cheesecake, featuring a luscious lemon curd. This delightful dessert marries the creamy richness of a classic cheesecake with the vibrant zing of fresh lemon. It's topped with a light, fluffy meringue that's gently toasted to perfection. It has become one of my most requested desserts to bring to family gatherings, and I have no doubt the same will happen with your families. The recipe does have a few steps to it, but it is 100% worth the extra work. You will also need a blowtorch for the meringue, as this is a no-bake cheesecake, it cannot go in the oven to cook the meringue, as it will melt the cheesecake filling. Serves 12 Gluten, nut, soy free Lemon curd 1½ Tbsp cornflour (cornstarch) Zest of 1 lemon Juice of 3 lemons (about 200ml) 3 egg yolks (save the whites for the meringue) 125g caster (superfine) sugar Base 400g packet gluten-free plain sweet meal biscuits 100g butter, melted, plus extra if needed Filling 2 tsp gelatin powder ¼ cup (60ml) lemon juice 500g cream cheese, softened ¾ cup (165g) caster (superfine) sugar Zest of 1 lemon ½ cup (125g) sour cream 1 cup (250ml) thick (double/heavy) cream Meringue 3 egg whites (reserved from the curd) ¾ cup (165g) caster (superfine) sugar Extra-virgin olive oil or butter, for greasing Method Grease a 24cm springform cake tin with oil or butter. To make the curd, mix the cornflour with the lemon juice and zest in a bowl. In another bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar until well combined. Heat 225ml water over high heat until just starting to boil. The cornflour will settle at the bottom of the bowl, so give the mixture a quick stir before adding it to the boiling water with the lemon. Whisk continuously until thick, about 2-3 minutes. Once the mixture has thickened, remove it from the heat and leave to cool for 1 minute. Add some of the egg yolk and sugar mixture to the lemon mixture and stir quickly to combine, then add the remaining egg yolk and sugar mixture. Once everything is combined, place the pan back over medium-high heat and stir until thickened, about another 2-3 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave to cool completely. The curd will keep in an airtight container for 1-2 weeks in the fridge, so you can make this ahead of time. For the cheesecake base, blitz the biscuits and melted butter together in a food processor until a crumb forms (add a little more melted butter if needed). Press the crumb mixture into the base of the tin. Use a glass to press and compact the crumb firmly, making sure to even out the edges where the base and side meets, as it can get quite thick. Refrigerate until set. For the filling, in a small saucepan, sprinkle the gelatin over the lemon juice and let it sit for a couple of minutes. Turn the heat to low and warm, stirring constantly until the gelatin has dissolved. Allow to cool slightly. Add the cream cheese and sugar to a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and beat until smooth and creamy. You can also do this in a large mixing bowl with an electric mixer. Add the lemon zest, lemon juice mixture and sour cream and beat until combined. Pour in the cream and beat for 2-3 minutes, or until fluffy. Pour the filling on top of the base and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight, to set. Once set, spread the lemon curd on top about 1cm-2cm thick. The thicker the layer, the tangier your cheesecake will be. Make the meringue on the day you wish to serve. Place the egg whites and sugar in a small saucepan set over low heat. Stir continuously until the sugar has dissolved and the whites look a little frothy. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly before whipping to stiff peaks in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, or by hand with an electric mixer. Spoon on top of the cheesecake and toast the meringue with a blowtorch until it is nice and golden all over.
Otago Daily Times
01-07-2025
- General
- Otago Daily Times
The humble pea: not so humble
Peas glorious peas — easily the most useful frozen vegetable, cook and food editor Samuel Goldsmith says. "Because they are frozen so quickly after picking, they retain their flavour, texture, colour and nutritional value. In my humble opinion frozen is best." Unless of course you are able to pick them from the garden immediately before cooking them while they are tender and sweet. The key to the success of freezing now is that food is frozen quickly to ensure quality is retained. They are blanched first, to retain their bright green colour and flavour, as well as to kill off any bacteria before they are frozen. "The entire process — from the picking to the packing — all happens within 150 minutes. I find that hard to believe but it is true, which is why the frozen pea manages to retain so much of its 'just picked' flavour." While they can be relegated to the side of the plate, peas are incredibly versatile. They can be blitzed into a puree, mashed, chopped and even squished between your fingers, he says. "There's something satisfying about biting through them; the texture and the flavour is that of one of the best vegetables out there." While they are rarely the leading ingredient in a dish, they do have the ability to steal the show even though they are the supporting act, he says. "It's why I love them: they'll always bring something to the party." If the vegetable bin is empty you can create a spring pea soup, add to a quick pasta or rice dish, throw them into a dahl or tray-bake or blitz them into a hummus or white sauce. But the most surprising recipes in the book are in the sweet chapter — pea, pistachio and matcha cake, pea muffins with cream cheese icing, or pea cake with coconut frosting. The book Images and text from The Frozen Peas Cookbook by Samuel Goldsmith, photography by Mowie Kay. Murdoch Books, RRP $45. Chorizo, pea and pearl barley stew Having a speedy stew up your sleeve is great for when the weather turns cooler. What I love about this recipe is that the flavours mean that it also suits the warmer weather too — the lemon and peas help here. In fact, it's one of the many benefits of frozen peas — you get to use a spring/ summer ingredient all year round. Serves 12 DF Ingredients 1 Tbsp sunflower, vegetable or olive oil 200g cooking chorizo, roughly chopped 1 onion, sliced 1 leek, sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed or finely grated 1½ tsp smoked paprika 1½ tsp dried mixed herbs Zest and juice of 1 lemon 150ml white wine 200g pearl barley 600ml vegetable or chicken stock 200g frozen peas Crusty bread, to serve Method Heat the oil in a large saucepan with a lid over a medium heat. Add the chorizo and fry for 4-5 minutes until it's started to release its oil and is turning golden. Remove from the pan, leaving the oil behind. Stir the onion, leek and ½ teaspoon salt into the chorizo. Fry for 6-8 minutes or until beginning to brown. Stir in the garlic, smoked paprika, dried mixed herbs and lemon zest, then season with salt and pepper and cook for 1 minute. Pour in the white wine, then simmer for 1-2 minutes or until the wine has reduced. Stir in the pearl barley and mix to combine everything, then cook for 1 minute before pouring in the stock. Pop the lid on then bring to a simmer. Cook for 10 minutes, then mix in the chorizo and cook for a further 10 minutes. Remove the lid, cook for 10 minutes, then stir in the frozen peas, bring back to a simmer and cook for 2-3 minutes or until the peas are warmed through and tender. Just before serving, stir through the lemon juice to taste, ladle the stew into bowls and serve with crusty bread. Chicken, pea and pesto lasagne Pesto pasta is a favourite meal in most households. This lasagne is a way of giving it an upgrade for family gatherings, but safe in the knowledge that the kids will still eat it (and fussy grown-ups, too). I find lasagne is a crowd-pleaser, and great for prepping ahead, too. Serve with a leafy salad or, if you're feeling in need of real comfort, some fries and garlic bread. Serves 6-8 Ingredients 2 Tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely diced 250g frozen peas 500g skinless chicken breast, sliced 1 x 190g jar Genovese basil pesto 6 blocks frozen spinach 500g mascarpone 125-175ml whole (full-fat) milk 50g parmesan, grated (shredded) 75g mature cheddar cheese, grated (shredded) 12-15 dried lasagne sheets Salt and freshly ground black pepper Method Heat half the oil in a frying pan (skillet) or saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion and fry for 6-8 minutes or until golden. Stir in the frozen peas and cook for a few minutes until warmed through and tender. Tip the onion and peas into a food processor and blitz or use a handheld stick (immersion) blender. (This is an optional step — you can just tip the onion and peas into a bowl and continue, but I love the vibrancy this gives.) Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan. In the same pan, heat the remaining oil and fry the chicken until browned. Stir in the pesto and frozen spinach, then cook for 5-8 minutes or until the spinach has defrosted. Stir in the onion and pea mixture, season with salt and pepper, then fold in 5 tablespoons of the mascarpone. Set aside. Combine the remaining mascarpone with enough milk to create a white sauce consistency, then mix in two-thirds of the parmesan and cheddar cheese. Season well with plenty of salt and pepper. Set aside. Before assembling the lasagne, see the cook's tip. Lay 3-4 lasagne sheets over the bottom of an 18cm square ovenproof dish or tin, ensuring they don't overlap too much. To make the first layer, spoon over one-third of the pesto chicken mixture followed by a further 3-4 lasagne sheets and one-third of the mascarpone sauce. Follow with a further two layers, ending with the final batch of mascarpone sauce. Scatter over the remaining cheese. At this point, you can chill the uncooked lasagne for up to 24 hours or freeze it for up to 3 months. Bake the lasagne in the preheated oven for 35-40 minutes or until the pasta sheets are tender and the sauce is bubbling. If cooking from chilled, it will take longer. If cooking from frozen, it's worth either defrosting fully first or covering the top with foil to stop it burning. Cook's tip The instructions above are for a three-layer lasagne, but you may find your ovenproof dish is too large for three layers. When you start spooning over the first layer of pesto chicken filling, if you need around half the mixture to cover the lasagne sheets then go for a two-layer lasagne. Simply use half the mascarpone mixture and half the pesto chicken mixture for each layer and add three layers of lasagne sheets (bottom, middle and top). Risi e bisi In the traditional version of this Venetian classic, fresh peas are used. If you grow your own, or live next to someone kind enough to share theirs, they are preferable. However, with frozen peas being preserved so quickly, you get a much better flavour than if you use fresh peas that have been hanging around for ages. Risi e bisi means rice and peas in the Venetian dialect and the dish was often used to herald the start of spring when served at the feast of Saint Marco on April 25. The great thing about frozen peas is that you don't have to wait for the start of spring; you can enjoy this dish all year round. Serves 4 GF Ingredients 2 Tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 125g pancetta, chopped 250g vialone nano risotto rice (see tip below) 125ml white wine or vermouth (optional) 600-800ml hot vegetable or chicken stock (gluten-free, if necessary) 500g frozen peas 50g butter 60g Parmesan, finely grated (shredded), plus extra to serve Salt and freshly ground black pepper Method Heat the oil in a large saucepan or deep frying pan (skillet) over a gentle heat. Add the onion and fry for 8-10 minutes or until soft but not golden. Stir in the pancetta and turn up the heat a little to medium-low. Fry the pancetta until it has started to release its fat and become a little golden round the edges. Tip in the rice and stir to coat the grains in the oil. Turn up the heat to medium, then fry for a minute or so until the rice starts to go a little translucent round the edges. Pour in the wine, if using, and simmer for a few minutes until almost all absorbed. Follow with a ladleful of the stock and simmer, stirring continuously, until absorbed. Continue using up the stock until you have a thick but soupy consistency and the rice is almost tender. You may not need to use all the stock, but if you haven't added the wine you may need to use a little more. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Tip in the frozen peas, stir to mix them with the rice and cook for 2-3 minutes or until warmed through. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the butter and Parmesan until melted. Serve with a little more grated Parmesan and freshly ground black pepper on top. Cook's tip Vialone nano is the risotto rice traditionally used for this dish and most other soupy risotto dishes. If you can't find it, swap it out for carnaroli risotto rice.
Otago Daily Times
17-06-2025
- General
- Otago Daily Times
Slow and steady wins in health and taste
People want a way to cook and eat that fulfills all the criteria — tasty, healthy, affordable, convenient and comforting. For Olivia Andrews, an Australian food writer, television presenter and co-founder of a meal kit delivery service, this is where slow cooking comes into its own. "Whether made in a dedicated slow cooker, or simply on the stovetop or in a low oven, many of these dishes virtually cook themselves." She is passionate about providing home cooks with perfectly balanced meals following dietary guidelines most people never consider. "Slow cooking whole, unprocessed food turns out to be the perfect way to make healthy, home-cooked food with maximum flavour and minimum fuss." In her book Slow Cooking , Andrews provides methods for both slow cookers and stove top and says one of slow cooking's benefits is it is a very forgiving form of cooking. "You don't need to hover over a meal as it simmers in the slow cooker and many models switch to 'warm' or have timers." It is also economical as you can use cheaper, more flavourful cuts of meat that need lengthy cooking to tenderise them. Her recipes also include substitutions so you can cook with whatever you have in the fridge or freezer. "This means you can take advantage of special offers at the butcher or supermarket." Andrews also suggests scattering the dishes with fresh herbs or adding a gremolata to add contrast and freshness to the tender meat and velvety sauce. Slow cooking is also a handy way to cook dried pulses and legumes instead of resorting to using canned. Andrews advises dishes made in the slow cooker require less liquid added than those on the stovetop or oven as the liquid cannot evaporate. As a general rule, you need about half the amount of liquid in the slow cooker to a traditional recipe. "For the same reason, it's important to let the cooking liquid simmer, uncovered, for a few minutes after adding wine, beer or spirits in order to cook off the alcohol and soften the harsh taste." Some slow cooker tips • Resist the urge to open the lid and let the heat out. • Never cook meat from frozen, thaw meat completely. • Never cook kidney-shaped beans from raw in the slow cooker as it does not destroy the natural toxins in the beans (soak overnight then boil vigorously in fresh water for 10 minutes). The book Images and text from Slow Cooking by Olivia Andrews, photography by Steve Brown. Murdoch Books RRP $32.99 Pork, apple and cider pie Serves 4 Ingredients 3 Tbsp cornflour (cornstarch) 1kg pork shoulder meat, cut into 3cm cubes 3 Tbsp olive oil 1 red onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 Tbsp finely chopped sage 1 tsp fennel seeds, coarsely ground 330ml (1⅓ cups) apple cider 2 granny smith apples, peeled, cored, cut into 3cm cubes 1kg desiree potatoes, peeled, cut into 4cm cubes 50g butter 3 Tbsp milk chopped parsley, to serve In the slow cooker Put the cornflour into a bowl and season well with salt and pepper. Coat the pork in the seasoned flour. Heat 1 Tbsp of the oil in a large frying pan over high heat and cook the pork for about 5 minutes or until browned. Transfer to the slow cooker. Reduce the heat to medium, add the onion, garlic, sage and fennel and cook for 2 minutes or until softened. Add the cider and let it boil for 12 minutes to evaporate the alcohol. Transfer to the slow cooker, along with the apples and mix. Season well with salt and pepper, then cook on low for 6 hours until the pork is tender. Meanwhile, put the potatoes in a large saucepan of cold salted water. Bring to the boil and cook for 12 minutes until tender. Drain and mash with a potato masher. Add the butter and milk and mix well. Spoon the potato on to the surface of the pork and apple mixture, making a scalloped pattern with the back of the spoon, if you like. Cook for a further 15 minutes or until warmed through. Serve with chopped parsley. In the oven Preheat the oven to 160°C . Put the cornflour into a bowl and season well with salt and pepper. Coat the pork in the seasoned flour. Heat 1 Tbsp of the oil in a large frying pan over high heat and cook the pork for about 5 minutes or until browned. Remove and set aside. Reduce the heat to medium, add the onion, garlic, sage and fennel and cook for 2 minutes or until softened. Return the pork to the pan, pour in the cider and let it boil for 12 minutes to evaporate the alcohol. Transfer to a 2.5-litre (10-cup) baking dish, along with the apples, and mix to combine. Season well with salt and pepper, then cover tightly with foil and bake for 1½ hours until the pork is tender. Meanwhile, put the potatoes in a large saucepan of cold salted water. Bring to the boil and cook for 12 minutes until tender. Drain and mash with a potato masher. Add the butter and milk and mix well. Increase the oven temperature to 190°C. Spoon the potato on to the surface of the pork and apple mixture, making a scalloped pattern with the back of the spoon, if you like. Bake for 15 minutes until warmed through and lightly golden. Serve with chopped parsley. Tamarind and pumpkin sambar Serve this light, hot and sour South Indian lentil and vegetable stew with roti or rice. Serves 4 Ingredients 300g (1½ cups) yellow lentils, soaked for 30 minutes, drained and rinsed 1kg jap or kent pumpkin, cut into 2cm slices 2 Tbsp ghee or butter 1 onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tsp brown mustard seeds 2 Tbsp curry leaves 1 Tbsp tamarind concentrate coriander (cilantro) sprigs, to serve Sambar spice mix 1 tsp coriander seeds 1 tsp cumin seeds ½ tsp fenugreek seeds ½ tsp black peppercorns 1 tsp chilli flakes 1 Tbsp desiccated coconut 1 tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp ground cinnamon In the slow cooker Put the lentils in the slow cooker with 750ml (3 cups) of water. Cook on high for 2 hours. Add the pumpkin and cook for another hour. For the sambar spice mix, toast the coriander, cumin and fenugreek seeds, peppercorns, chilli and coconut in a dry frying pan until fragrant, stirring so they don't burn. Grind to a fine powder using a small food processor or spice grinder, then transfer to a bowl and stir in the turmeric and cinnamon. Heat the ghee in a frying pan over medium heat and cook the onion, garlic, mustard seeds and curry leaves for about 5 minutes until the onion is soft. Stir in the sambar powder, tamarind and 250ml (1 cup) of water, then transfer to the slow cooker. Turn the pumpkin and cook for a further 1-1½ hours until the lentils and pumpkin are tender. Season with salt, then top with coriander sprigs. On the stovetop Put the lentils and pumpkin in a large saucepan with 1 litre (4 cups) of water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes until just tender, skimming off any impurities. For the sambar spice mix, toast the coriander, cumin and fenugreek seeds, peppercorns, chilli and coconut in a dry frying pan until fragrant, stirring so they don't burn. Grind to a fine powder using a small food processor or spice grinder, then transfer to a bowl and stir in the turmeric and cinnamon. Heat the ghee in a large frying pan over medium heat and cook the onion, garlic, mustard seeds and curry leaves for about 5 minutes until the onion is soft. Add the spice paste and cook for 3 minutes, stirring until fragrant. Stir in the tamarind and 250ml (1 cup) of water and bring to the boil, then tip into the pan with the lentils and pumpkin. Cook for a further 5 minutes until the lentils and pumpkin are tender. Season with salt, then top with coriander sprigs. Seafood chowder A rich and creamy chowder is hard to beat. Serve with crusty bread and perhaps a salad for a soothing supper. You can mix up the seafood, according to what looks good on the day: you could use mussels instead of clams, or try fish and prawns. Serves 4 Ingredients 16 clams (vongole), soaked for 1 hour, drained and rinsed 40g butter 1 leek, white parts only, halved lengthways then thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 rindless bacon rasher, cut into batons 1 Tbsp cornflour (cornstarch) 1 litre (4 cups) fish or seafood stock 1 fresh or dried bay leaf 4 lemon thyme or thyme sprigs, leaves picked Pinch cayenne pepper 500ml (2 cups) milk 150g skinless hot-smoked salmon fillet, flaked into large pieces 12 scallops Chopped parsley, extra virgin olive oil and crusty bread, to serve In the slow cooker Heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the clams and cover with a lid. Cook for 1 minute until the shells have just opened. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. Reduce the heat to medium and add the butter to the pan. Cook the leek, garlic and bacon for 4 minutes until lightly golden, then sprinkle in the flour and cook for 1 minute, stirring. Gradually stir in the stock, then add the bay leaf, thyme and cayenne pepper. Season with salt and pepper, then transfer to the slow cooker. Cook on high for 2 hours, then turn the slow cooker down to low. Stir in the milk and add the salmon, scallops and the clams with any juices. Cook for 30 minutes until the fish and seafood is cooked through. Serve with chopped parsley, extra virgin olive oil and crusty bread. On the stovetop Heat the butter in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Cook the leek, garlic and bacon for 4 minutes until lightly golden, then sprinkle in the flour and cook for 1 minute, stirring. Gradually stir in the stock, then add the bay leaf, thyme and cayenne pepper. Bring to the boil, add the clams and cover with a lid. Cook for 12 minutes until they start to open. Add the milk and bring to just below a simmer. Add the salmon and scallops and cook for 2 minutes until the seafood is just cooked through and the clams have opened. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with chopped parsley, extra virgin olive oil and crusty bread.
Sydney Morning Herald
16-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Sydney Morning Herald
How Aussie cookbooks are winning hearts and stomachs worldwide
'Seriously, when I (very late) sent through the material, and five days later I got the editorial comments, you couldn't see any of my writing, it was all blue and red. I was like 'woah', I thought I was done. It was so much! But I'm very happy that we went through that process – the final product is really amazing.' As for making dishes his own, Papadakis says you can take inspiration from the classics or your peers. 'I try to keep the integrity of the flavour and be original at the same time,' he says. 'A good example is our Tipomisu, a take on a tiramisu but very different, thus the name. We changed the coffee soaked savoiardi with a rich chocolate brownie and finished it with a salted caramel coffee sauce. 'In a similar way, we have had a smoked eel carbonara, where instead of guanciale I use local smoked eel, crisped up in a similar way as the guanciale, and make a smoked eel stock for the egg mix.' The book team includes editorial manager Virginia Birch, designers Andy Warren and Megan Pigott, photographer Mark Roper, stylist Lee Blaylock and illustrator Robin Cowcher. Australian cookbooks have form in the James Beard awards. Publisher Jane Willson has clocked up four wins and five nominations, including the latest for Tipo 00. Those wins include Josh Niland's first two books – The Whole Fish Cookbook and Take One Fish – the late Greg Malouf's Suqar in 2019, and Milk Made by Nick Haddow in 2017, all while she was at Hardie Grant. Nominations there include Carla Oates' The Beauty Chef in 2018 and From the Earth by Peter Gilmore in 2019. More recently, at Murdoch Books, she has garnered nominations for Mat Lindsay's Ester in 2024 and The Miller's Daughter by Emma Zimmerman in 2023. She says common ingredients in the best books are 'committed authors, appetite for risk (from all involved), a POV/something to say and a team that's greater than the sum of its parts – and is firing'. 'That last element is actually more important than you might think,' she says. 'Book-making is such a collaborative undertaking. I don't think it's any coincidence that the authors who get that and, indeed, embrace that, are often the ones who are recognised. 'It's a total thrill to win, but it doesn't really sell books ... What it does do, however, is recognise a commitment to thoughtful, quality, often boundary-pushing publishing.' Niland's The Whole Fish Cookbook won the major gong in the overall Book of the Year in 2020 as well as its category. His Take One Fish won its category in 2021, then Fish Butchery: Mastering the Catch, Cut and Craft won its category last year. The Sydney-based chef known for his restaurant St Peter wrote that first book in just eight weeks on his mobile phone and has sold more than 200,000 copies. 'Doing the book was a good lesson in working with creatives in other fields,' Niland says. 'I felt like we managed to put together a team for [ The Whole Fish ] that was so ready. And nobody was combative or said, 'No, I don't think that will work' … it was like being in a drama lesson where you get taught to say yes, and it just made the product better.' Lorraine Woodcheke has spent much of her career marketing Australian chefs and authors in North America, as marketing and publicity director for Hardie Grant in the US and before that at Penguin Random House/Ten Speed Press and Chronicle Books. Now with Murdoch, based in San Francisco, she says a nomination is a major honour and 'a win is life-changing'. 'It becomes a permanent part of a chef or author's bio – a credential that carries weight across the food and publishing industries anywhere in the world.' While it may not immediately equate to sales, a win significantly expands visibility, particularly in the US,' Woodcheke says. '[It] affirms an author's place among the most influential culinary voices of their time. That recognition stays with them for the rest of their career and beyond.'
The Age
16-05-2025
- Entertainment
- The Age
How Aussie cookbooks are winning hearts and stomachs worldwide
'Seriously, when I (very late) sent through the material, and five days later I got the editorial comments, you couldn't see any of my writing, it was all blue and red. I was like 'woah', I thought I was done. It was so much! But I'm very happy that we went through that process – the final product is really amazing.' As for making dishes his own, Papadakis says you can take inspiration from the classics or your peers. 'I try to keep the integrity of the flavour and be original at the same time,' he says. 'A good example is our Tipomisu, a take on a tiramisu but very different, thus the name. We changed the coffee soaked savoiardi with a rich chocolate brownie and finished it with a salted caramel coffee sauce. 'In a similar way, we have had a smoked eel carbonara, where instead of guanciale I use local smoked eel, crisped up in a similar way as the guanciale, and make a smoked eel stock for the egg mix.' The book team includes editorial manager Virginia Birch, designers Andy Warren and Megan Pigott, photographer Mark Roper, stylist Lee Blaylock and illustrator Robin Cowcher. Australian cookbooks have form in the James Beard awards. Publisher Jane Willson has clocked up four wins and five nominations, including the latest for Tipo 00. Those wins include Josh Niland's first two books – The Whole Fish Cookbook and Take One Fish – the late Greg Malouf's Suqar in 2019, and Milk Made by Nick Haddow in 2017, all while she was at Hardie Grant. Nominations there include Carla Oates' The Beauty Chef in 2018 and From the Earth by Peter Gilmore in 2019. More recently, at Murdoch Books, she has garnered nominations for Mat Lindsay's Ester in 2024 and The Miller's Daughter by Emma Zimmerman in 2023. She says common ingredients in the best books are 'committed authors, appetite for risk (from all involved), a POV/something to say and a team that's greater than the sum of its parts – and is firing'. 'That last element is actually more important than you might think,' she says. 'Book-making is such a collaborative undertaking. I don't think it's any coincidence that the authors who get that and, indeed, embrace that, are often the ones who are recognised. 'It's a total thrill to win, but it doesn't really sell books ... What it does do, however, is recognise a commitment to thoughtful, quality, often boundary-pushing publishing.' Niland's The Whole Fish Cookbook won the major gong in the overall Book of the Year in 2020 as well as its category. His Take One Fish won its category in 2021, then Fish Butchery: Mastering the Catch, Cut and Craft won its category last year. The Sydney-based chef known for his restaurant St Peter wrote that first book in just eight weeks on his mobile phone and has sold more than 200,000 copies. 'Doing the book was a good lesson in working with creatives in other fields,' Niland says. 'I felt like we managed to put together a team for [ The Whole Fish ] that was so ready. And nobody was combative or said, 'No, I don't think that will work' … it was like being in a drama lesson where you get taught to say yes, and it just made the product better.' Lorraine Woodcheke has spent much of her career marketing Australian chefs and authors in North America, as marketing and publicity director for Hardie Grant in the US and before that at Penguin Random House/Ten Speed Press and Chronicle Books. Now with Murdoch, based in San Francisco, she says a nomination is a major honour and 'a win is life-changing'. 'It becomes a permanent part of a chef or author's bio – a credential that carries weight across the food and publishing industries anywhere in the world.' While it may not immediately equate to sales, a win significantly expands visibility, particularly in the US,' Woodcheke says. '[It] affirms an author's place among the most influential culinary voices of their time. That recognition stays with them for the rest of their career and beyond.'
