The humble pea: not so humble
"Because they are frozen so quickly after picking, they retain their flavour, texture, colour and nutritional value. In my humble opinion frozen is best."
Unless of course you are able to pick them from the garden immediately before cooking them while they are tender and sweet.
The key to the success of freezing now is that food is frozen quickly to ensure quality is retained. They are blanched first, to retain their bright green colour and flavour, as well as to kill off any bacteria before they are frozen.
"The entire process — from the picking to the packing — all happens within 150 minutes. I find that hard to believe but it is true, which is why the frozen pea manages to retain so much of its 'just picked' flavour."
While they can be relegated to the side of the plate, peas are incredibly versatile.
They can be blitzed into a puree, mashed, chopped and even squished between your fingers, he says.
"There's something satisfying about biting through them; the texture and the flavour is that of one of the best vegetables out there."
While they are rarely the leading ingredient in a dish, they do have the ability to steal the show even though they are the supporting act, he says.
"It's why I love them: they'll always bring something to the party."
If the vegetable bin is empty you can create a spring pea soup, add to a quick pasta or rice dish, throw them into a dahl or tray-bake or blitz them into a hummus or white sauce.
But the most surprising recipes in the book are in the sweet chapter — pea, pistachio and matcha cake, pea muffins with cream cheese icing, or pea cake with coconut frosting. The book
Images and text from The Frozen Peas Cookbook by Samuel Goldsmith, photography by Mowie Kay. Murdoch Books, RRP $45. Chorizo, pea and pearl barley stew
Having a speedy stew up your sleeve is great for when the weather turns cooler. What I love about this recipe is that the flavours mean that it also suits the warmer weather too — the lemon and peas help here. In fact, it's one of the many benefits of frozen peas — you get to use a spring/ summer ingredient all year round. Serves 12 DF
Ingredients
1 Tbsp sunflower, vegetable or olive oil
200g cooking chorizo, roughly chopped
1 onion, sliced
1 leek, sliced
2 garlic cloves, crushed or finely grated
1½ tsp smoked paprika
1½ tsp dried mixed herbs
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
150ml white wine
200g pearl barley
600ml vegetable or chicken stock
200g frozen peas
Crusty bread, to serve
Method
Heat the oil in a large saucepan with a lid over a medium heat. Add the chorizo and fry for 4-5 minutes until it's started to release its oil and is turning golden. Remove from the pan, leaving the oil behind.
Stir the onion, leek and ½ teaspoon salt into the chorizo. Fry for 6-8 minutes or until beginning to brown.
Stir in the garlic, smoked paprika, dried mixed herbs and lemon zest, then season with salt and pepper and cook for 1 minute.
Pour in the white wine, then simmer for 1-2 minutes or until the wine has reduced. Stir in the pearl barley and mix to combine everything, then cook for 1 minute before pouring in the stock. Pop the lid on then bring to a simmer.
Cook for 10 minutes, then mix in the chorizo and cook for a further 10 minutes.
Remove the lid, cook for 10 minutes, then stir in the frozen peas, bring back to a simmer and cook for 2-3 minutes or until the peas are warmed through and tender.
Just before serving, stir through the lemon juice to taste, ladle the stew into bowls and serve with crusty bread. Chicken, pea and pesto lasagne
Pesto pasta is a favourite meal in most households. This lasagne is a way of giving it an upgrade for family gatherings, but safe in the knowledge that the kids will still eat it (and fussy grown-ups, too). I find lasagne is a crowd-pleaser, and great for prepping ahead, too. Serve with a leafy salad or, if you're feeling in need of real comfort, some fries and garlic bread. Serves 6-8
Ingredients
2 Tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely diced
250g frozen peas
500g skinless chicken breast, sliced
1 x 190g jar Genovese basil pesto
6 blocks frozen spinach
500g mascarpone
125-175ml whole (full-fat) milk
50g parmesan, grated (shredded)
75g mature cheddar cheese,
grated (shredded)
12-15 dried lasagne sheets
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method
Heat half the oil in a frying pan (skillet) or saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion and fry for 6-8 minutes or until golden. Stir in the frozen peas and cook for a few minutes until warmed through and tender.
Tip the onion and peas into a food processor and blitz or use a handheld stick (immersion) blender. (This is an optional step — you can just tip the onion and peas into a bowl and continue, but I love the vibrancy this gives.)
Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan. In the same pan, heat the remaining oil and fry the chicken until browned. Stir in the pesto and frozen spinach, then cook for 5-8 minutes or until the spinach has defrosted. Stir in the onion and pea mixture, season with salt and pepper, then fold in 5 tablespoons of the mascarpone. Set aside.
Combine the remaining mascarpone with enough milk to create a white sauce consistency, then mix in two-thirds of the parmesan and cheddar cheese. Season well with plenty of salt and pepper. Set aside.
Before assembling the lasagne, see the cook's tip. Lay 3-4 lasagne sheets over the bottom of an 18cm square ovenproof dish or tin, ensuring they don't overlap too much.
To make the first layer, spoon over one-third of the pesto chicken mixture followed by a further 3-4 lasagne sheets and one-third of the mascarpone sauce.
Follow with a further two layers, ending with the final batch of mascarpone sauce. Scatter over the remaining cheese.
At this point, you can chill the uncooked lasagne for up to 24 hours or freeze it for up to 3 months. Bake the lasagne in the preheated oven for 35-40 minutes or until the pasta sheets are tender and the sauce is bubbling.
If cooking from chilled, it will take longer. If cooking from frozen, it's worth either defrosting fully first or covering the top with foil to stop it burning. Cook's tip
The instructions above are for a three-layer lasagne, but you may find your ovenproof dish is too large for three layers. When you start spooning over the first layer of pesto chicken filling, if you need around half the mixture to cover the lasagne sheets then go for a two-layer lasagne. Simply use half the mascarpone mixture and half the pesto chicken mixture for each layer and add three layers of lasagne sheets (bottom, middle and top). Risi e bisi
In the traditional version of this Venetian classic, fresh peas are used. If you grow your own, or live next to someone kind enough to share theirs, they are preferable. However, with frozen peas being preserved so quickly, you get a much better flavour than if you use fresh peas that have been hanging around for ages. Risi e bisi means rice and peas in the Venetian dialect and the dish was often used to herald the start of spring when served at the feast of Saint Marco on April 25. The great thing about frozen peas is that you don't have to wait for the start of spring; you can enjoy this dish all year round. Serves 4 GF
Ingredients
2 Tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
125g pancetta, chopped
250g vialone nano risotto rice (see tip below)
125ml white wine or vermouth (optional)
600-800ml hot vegetable or chicken stock (gluten-free, if necessary)
500g frozen peas
50g butter
60g Parmesan, finely grated (shredded), plus extra to serve
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method
Heat the oil in a large saucepan or deep frying pan (skillet) over a gentle heat.
Add the onion and fry for 8-10 minutes or until soft but not golden. Stir in the pancetta and turn up the heat a little to medium-low. Fry the pancetta until it has started to release its fat and become a little golden round the edges.
Tip in the rice and stir to coat the grains in the oil. Turn up the heat to medium, then fry for a minute or so until the rice starts to go a little translucent round the edges.
Pour in the wine, if using, and simmer for a few minutes until almost all absorbed. Follow with a ladleful of the stock and simmer, stirring continuously, until absorbed. Continue using up the stock until you have a thick but soupy consistency and the rice is almost tender. You may not need to use all the stock, but if you haven't added the wine you may need to use a little more.
Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Tip in the frozen peas, stir to mix them with the rice and cook for 2-3 minutes or until warmed through.
Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the butter and Parmesan until melted.
Serve with a little more grated Parmesan and freshly ground black pepper on top. Cook's tip
Vialone nano is the risotto rice traditionally used for this dish and most other soupy risotto dishes.
If you can't find it, swap it out for carnaroli risotto rice.
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Otago Daily Times
01-07-2025
- Otago Daily Times
The humble pea: not so humble
Peas glorious peas — easily the most useful frozen vegetable, cook and food editor Samuel Goldsmith says. "Because they are frozen so quickly after picking, they retain their flavour, texture, colour and nutritional value. In my humble opinion frozen is best." Unless of course you are able to pick them from the garden immediately before cooking them while they are tender and sweet. The key to the success of freezing now is that food is frozen quickly to ensure quality is retained. They are blanched first, to retain their bright green colour and flavour, as well as to kill off any bacteria before they are frozen. "The entire process — from the picking to the packing — all happens within 150 minutes. I find that hard to believe but it is true, which is why the frozen pea manages to retain so much of its 'just picked' flavour." While they can be relegated to the side of the plate, peas are incredibly versatile. They can be blitzed into a puree, mashed, chopped and even squished between your fingers, he says. "There's something satisfying about biting through them; the texture and the flavour is that of one of the best vegetables out there." While they are rarely the leading ingredient in a dish, they do have the ability to steal the show even though they are the supporting act, he says. "It's why I love them: they'll always bring something to the party." If the vegetable bin is empty you can create a spring pea soup, add to a quick pasta or rice dish, throw them into a dahl or tray-bake or blitz them into a hummus or white sauce. But the most surprising recipes in the book are in the sweet chapter — pea, pistachio and matcha cake, pea muffins with cream cheese icing, or pea cake with coconut frosting. The book Images and text from The Frozen Peas Cookbook by Samuel Goldsmith, photography by Mowie Kay. Murdoch Books, RRP $45. Chorizo, pea and pearl barley stew Having a speedy stew up your sleeve is great for when the weather turns cooler. What I love about this recipe is that the flavours mean that it also suits the warmer weather too — the lemon and peas help here. In fact, it's one of the many benefits of frozen peas — you get to use a spring/ summer ingredient all year round. Serves 12 DF Ingredients 1 Tbsp sunflower, vegetable or olive oil 200g cooking chorizo, roughly chopped 1 onion, sliced 1 leek, sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed or finely grated 1½ tsp smoked paprika 1½ tsp dried mixed herbs Zest and juice of 1 lemon 150ml white wine 200g pearl barley 600ml vegetable or chicken stock 200g frozen peas Crusty bread, to serve Method Heat the oil in a large saucepan with a lid over a medium heat. Add the chorizo and fry for 4-5 minutes until it's started to release its oil and is turning golden. Remove from the pan, leaving the oil behind. Stir the onion, leek and ½ teaspoon salt into the chorizo. Fry for 6-8 minutes or until beginning to brown. Stir in the garlic, smoked paprika, dried mixed herbs and lemon zest, then season with salt and pepper and cook for 1 minute. Pour in the white wine, then simmer for 1-2 minutes or until the wine has reduced. Stir in the pearl barley and mix to combine everything, then cook for 1 minute before pouring in the stock. Pop the lid on then bring to a simmer. Cook for 10 minutes, then mix in the chorizo and cook for a further 10 minutes. Remove the lid, cook for 10 minutes, then stir in the frozen peas, bring back to a simmer and cook for 2-3 minutes or until the peas are warmed through and tender. Just before serving, stir through the lemon juice to taste, ladle the stew into bowls and serve with crusty bread. Chicken, pea and pesto lasagne Pesto pasta is a favourite meal in most households. This lasagne is a way of giving it an upgrade for family gatherings, but safe in the knowledge that the kids will still eat it (and fussy grown-ups, too). I find lasagne is a crowd-pleaser, and great for prepping ahead, too. Serve with a leafy salad or, if you're feeling in need of real comfort, some fries and garlic bread. Serves 6-8 Ingredients 2 Tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely diced 250g frozen peas 500g skinless chicken breast, sliced 1 x 190g jar Genovese basil pesto 6 blocks frozen spinach 500g mascarpone 125-175ml whole (full-fat) milk 50g parmesan, grated (shredded) 75g mature cheddar cheese, grated (shredded) 12-15 dried lasagne sheets Salt and freshly ground black pepper Method Heat half the oil in a frying pan (skillet) or saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion and fry for 6-8 minutes or until golden. Stir in the frozen peas and cook for a few minutes until warmed through and tender. Tip the onion and peas into a food processor and blitz or use a handheld stick (immersion) blender. (This is an optional step — you can just tip the onion and peas into a bowl and continue, but I love the vibrancy this gives.) Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan. In the same pan, heat the remaining oil and fry the chicken until browned. Stir in the pesto and frozen spinach, then cook for 5-8 minutes or until the spinach has defrosted. Stir in the onion and pea mixture, season with salt and pepper, then fold in 5 tablespoons of the mascarpone. Set aside. Combine the remaining mascarpone with enough milk to create a white sauce consistency, then mix in two-thirds of the parmesan and cheddar cheese. Season well with plenty of salt and pepper. Set aside. Before assembling the lasagne, see the cook's tip. Lay 3-4 lasagne sheets over the bottom of an 18cm square ovenproof dish or tin, ensuring they don't overlap too much. To make the first layer, spoon over one-third of the pesto chicken mixture followed by a further 3-4 lasagne sheets and one-third of the mascarpone sauce. Follow with a further two layers, ending with the final batch of mascarpone sauce. Scatter over the remaining cheese. At this point, you can chill the uncooked lasagne for up to 24 hours or freeze it for up to 3 months. Bake the lasagne in the preheated oven for 35-40 minutes or until the pasta sheets are tender and the sauce is bubbling. If cooking from chilled, it will take longer. If cooking from frozen, it's worth either defrosting fully first or covering the top with foil to stop it burning. Cook's tip The instructions above are for a three-layer lasagne, but you may find your ovenproof dish is too large for three layers. When you start spooning over the first layer of pesto chicken filling, if you need around half the mixture to cover the lasagne sheets then go for a two-layer lasagne. Simply use half the mascarpone mixture and half the pesto chicken mixture for each layer and add three layers of lasagne sheets (bottom, middle and top). Risi e bisi In the traditional version of this Venetian classic, fresh peas are used. If you grow your own, or live next to someone kind enough to share theirs, they are preferable. However, with frozen peas being preserved so quickly, you get a much better flavour than if you use fresh peas that have been hanging around for ages. Risi e bisi means rice and peas in the Venetian dialect and the dish was often used to herald the start of spring when served at the feast of Saint Marco on April 25. The great thing about frozen peas is that you don't have to wait for the start of spring; you can enjoy this dish all year round. Serves 4 GF Ingredients 2 Tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 125g pancetta, chopped 250g vialone nano risotto rice (see tip below) 125ml white wine or vermouth (optional) 600-800ml hot vegetable or chicken stock (gluten-free, if necessary) 500g frozen peas 50g butter 60g Parmesan, finely grated (shredded), plus extra to serve Salt and freshly ground black pepper Method Heat the oil in a large saucepan or deep frying pan (skillet) over a gentle heat. Add the onion and fry for 8-10 minutes or until soft but not golden. Stir in the pancetta and turn up the heat a little to medium-low. Fry the pancetta until it has started to release its fat and become a little golden round the edges. Tip in the rice and stir to coat the grains in the oil. Turn up the heat to medium, then fry for a minute or so until the rice starts to go a little translucent round the edges. Pour in the wine, if using, and simmer for a few minutes until almost all absorbed. Follow with a ladleful of the stock and simmer, stirring continuously, until absorbed. Continue using up the stock until you have a thick but soupy consistency and the rice is almost tender. You may not need to use all the stock, but if you haven't added the wine you may need to use a little more. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Tip in the frozen peas, stir to mix them with the rice and cook for 2-3 minutes or until warmed through. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the butter and Parmesan until melted. Serve with a little more grated Parmesan and freshly ground black pepper on top. Cook's tip Vialone nano is the risotto rice traditionally used for this dish and most other soupy risotto dishes. If you can't find it, swap it out for carnaroli risotto rice.
Otago Daily Times
17-06-2025
- Otago Daily Times
Slow and steady wins in health and taste
People want a way to cook and eat that fulfills all the criteria — tasty, healthy, affordable, convenient and comforting. For Olivia Andrews, an Australian food writer, television presenter and co-founder of a meal kit delivery service, this is where slow cooking comes into its own. "Whether made in a dedicated slow cooker, or simply on the stovetop or in a low oven, many of these dishes virtually cook themselves." She is passionate about providing home cooks with perfectly balanced meals following dietary guidelines most people never consider. "Slow cooking whole, unprocessed food turns out to be the perfect way to make healthy, home-cooked food with maximum flavour and minimum fuss." In her book Slow Cooking , Andrews provides methods for both slow cookers and stove top and says one of slow cooking's benefits is it is a very forgiving form of cooking. "You don't need to hover over a meal as it simmers in the slow cooker and many models switch to 'warm' or have timers." It is also economical as you can use cheaper, more flavourful cuts of meat that need lengthy cooking to tenderise them. Her recipes also include substitutions so you can cook with whatever you have in the fridge or freezer. "This means you can take advantage of special offers at the butcher or supermarket." Andrews also suggests scattering the dishes with fresh herbs or adding a gremolata to add contrast and freshness to the tender meat and velvety sauce. Slow cooking is also a handy way to cook dried pulses and legumes instead of resorting to using canned. Andrews advises dishes made in the slow cooker require less liquid added than those on the stovetop or oven as the liquid cannot evaporate. As a general rule, you need about half the amount of liquid in the slow cooker to a traditional recipe. "For the same reason, it's important to let the cooking liquid simmer, uncovered, for a few minutes after adding wine, beer or spirits in order to cook off the alcohol and soften the harsh taste." Some slow cooker tips • Resist the urge to open the lid and let the heat out. • Never cook meat from frozen, thaw meat completely. • Never cook kidney-shaped beans from raw in the slow cooker as it does not destroy the natural toxins in the beans (soak overnight then boil vigorously in fresh water for 10 minutes). The book Images and text from Slow Cooking by Olivia Andrews, photography by Steve Brown. Murdoch Books RRP $32.99 Pork, apple and cider pie Serves 4 Ingredients 3 Tbsp cornflour (cornstarch) 1kg pork shoulder meat, cut into 3cm cubes 3 Tbsp olive oil 1 red onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 Tbsp finely chopped sage 1 tsp fennel seeds, coarsely ground 330ml (1⅓ cups) apple cider 2 granny smith apples, peeled, cored, cut into 3cm cubes 1kg desiree potatoes, peeled, cut into 4cm cubes 50g butter 3 Tbsp milk chopped parsley, to serve In the slow cooker Put the cornflour into a bowl and season well with salt and pepper. Coat the pork in the seasoned flour. Heat 1 Tbsp of the oil in a large frying pan over high heat and cook the pork for about 5 minutes or until browned. Transfer to the slow cooker. Reduce the heat to medium, add the onion, garlic, sage and fennel and cook for 2 minutes or until softened. Add the cider and let it boil for 12 minutes to evaporate the alcohol. Transfer to the slow cooker, along with the apples and mix. Season well with salt and pepper, then cook on low for 6 hours until the pork is tender. Meanwhile, put the potatoes in a large saucepan of cold salted water. Bring to the boil and cook for 12 minutes until tender. Drain and mash with a potato masher. Add the butter and milk and mix well. Spoon the potato on to the surface of the pork and apple mixture, making a scalloped pattern with the back of the spoon, if you like. Cook for a further 15 minutes or until warmed through. Serve with chopped parsley. In the oven Preheat the oven to 160°C . Put the cornflour into a bowl and season well with salt and pepper. Coat the pork in the seasoned flour. Heat 1 Tbsp of the oil in a large frying pan over high heat and cook the pork for about 5 minutes or until browned. Remove and set aside. Reduce the heat to medium, add the onion, garlic, sage and fennel and cook for 2 minutes or until softened. Return the pork to the pan, pour in the cider and let it boil for 12 minutes to evaporate the alcohol. Transfer to a 2.5-litre (10-cup) baking dish, along with the apples, and mix to combine. Season well with salt and pepper, then cover tightly with foil and bake for 1½ hours until the pork is tender. Meanwhile, put the potatoes in a large saucepan of cold salted water. Bring to the boil and cook for 12 minutes until tender. Drain and mash with a potato masher. Add the butter and milk and mix well. Increase the oven temperature to 190°C. Spoon the potato on to the surface of the pork and apple mixture, making a scalloped pattern with the back of the spoon, if you like. Bake for 15 minutes until warmed through and lightly golden. Serve with chopped parsley. Tamarind and pumpkin sambar Serve this light, hot and sour South Indian lentil and vegetable stew with roti or rice. Serves 4 Ingredients 300g (1½ cups) yellow lentils, soaked for 30 minutes, drained and rinsed 1kg jap or kent pumpkin, cut into 2cm slices 2 Tbsp ghee or butter 1 onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tsp brown mustard seeds 2 Tbsp curry leaves 1 Tbsp tamarind concentrate coriander (cilantro) sprigs, to serve Sambar spice mix 1 tsp coriander seeds 1 tsp cumin seeds ½ tsp fenugreek seeds ½ tsp black peppercorns 1 tsp chilli flakes 1 Tbsp desiccated coconut 1 tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp ground cinnamon In the slow cooker Put the lentils in the slow cooker with 750ml (3 cups) of water. Cook on high for 2 hours. Add the pumpkin and cook for another hour. For the sambar spice mix, toast the coriander, cumin and fenugreek seeds, peppercorns, chilli and coconut in a dry frying pan until fragrant, stirring so they don't burn. Grind to a fine powder using a small food processor or spice grinder, then transfer to a bowl and stir in the turmeric and cinnamon. Heat the ghee in a frying pan over medium heat and cook the onion, garlic, mustard seeds and curry leaves for about 5 minutes until the onion is soft. Stir in the sambar powder, tamarind and 250ml (1 cup) of water, then transfer to the slow cooker. Turn the pumpkin and cook for a further 1-1½ hours until the lentils and pumpkin are tender. Season with salt, then top with coriander sprigs. On the stovetop Put the lentils and pumpkin in a large saucepan with 1 litre (4 cups) of water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes until just tender, skimming off any impurities. For the sambar spice mix, toast the coriander, cumin and fenugreek seeds, peppercorns, chilli and coconut in a dry frying pan until fragrant, stirring so they don't burn. Grind to a fine powder using a small food processor or spice grinder, then transfer to a bowl and stir in the turmeric and cinnamon. Heat the ghee in a large frying pan over medium heat and cook the onion, garlic, mustard seeds and curry leaves for about 5 minutes until the onion is soft. Add the spice paste and cook for 3 minutes, stirring until fragrant. Stir in the tamarind and 250ml (1 cup) of water and bring to the boil, then tip into the pan with the lentils and pumpkin. Cook for a further 5 minutes until the lentils and pumpkin are tender. Season with salt, then top with coriander sprigs. Seafood chowder A rich and creamy chowder is hard to beat. Serve with crusty bread and perhaps a salad for a soothing supper. You can mix up the seafood, according to what looks good on the day: you could use mussels instead of clams, or try fish and prawns. Serves 4 Ingredients 16 clams (vongole), soaked for 1 hour, drained and rinsed 40g butter 1 leek, white parts only, halved lengthways then thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 rindless bacon rasher, cut into batons 1 Tbsp cornflour (cornstarch) 1 litre (4 cups) fish or seafood stock 1 fresh or dried bay leaf 4 lemon thyme or thyme sprigs, leaves picked Pinch cayenne pepper 500ml (2 cups) milk 150g skinless hot-smoked salmon fillet, flaked into large pieces 12 scallops Chopped parsley, extra virgin olive oil and crusty bread, to serve In the slow cooker Heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the clams and cover with a lid. Cook for 1 minute until the shells have just opened. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. Reduce the heat to medium and add the butter to the pan. Cook the leek, garlic and bacon for 4 minutes until lightly golden, then sprinkle in the flour and cook for 1 minute, stirring. Gradually stir in the stock, then add the bay leaf, thyme and cayenne pepper. Season with salt and pepper, then transfer to the slow cooker. Cook on high for 2 hours, then turn the slow cooker down to low. Stir in the milk and add the salmon, scallops and the clams with any juices. Cook for 30 minutes until the fish and seafood is cooked through. Serve with chopped parsley, extra virgin olive oil and crusty bread. On the stovetop Heat the butter in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Cook the leek, garlic and bacon for 4 minutes until lightly golden, then sprinkle in the flour and cook for 1 minute, stirring. Gradually stir in the stock, then add the bay leaf, thyme and cayenne pepper. Bring to the boil, add the clams and cover with a lid. Cook for 12 minutes until they start to open. Add the milk and bring to just below a simmer. Add the salmon and scallops and cook for 2 minutes until the seafood is just cooked through and the clams have opened. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with chopped parsley, extra virgin olive oil and crusty bread.
Otago Daily Times
08-05-2025
- Otago Daily Times
Pickling your way to taste
Pickling master Alex Elliott-Howery. PHOTOS: ALAN BENSON Having a pantry full of home-made pickles and chutneys is a very satisfying feeling and quickly makes a meal more satisfying. Elliot-Howery should know - she discovered the ''hard'' way. Her partner filled their tiny backyard with zuchinis their children did not like and after a while their friends and family were overloaded and could not take any more. ''I couldn't bear the thought of throwing food away. So I thought I'd give pickling a go. ''And once I'd begun, I couldn't stop.'' Intensely focused on figuring out ways to reduce food waste on a domestic level in a busy urban neighbourhood, she taught herself as many traditional food skills as she could to deal with any excess. ''I preserved obsessively, putting anything I could get my hands on into a jar. ''Homegrown vegetables, fruit from the neighbours' unloved trees, whatever was cheap at the markets or was left over in the fridge at the end of the week.'' She filled her garage with pickles, chutneys, sauces, jams, marmalade and sauerkraut. They then decided to open a little cafe, Cornersmith, in their neighbourhood highlighting the way they ate at home assembling a variety of delicious elements - one or two vegetable dishes, a jar of pickles or ferments, a nice loaf of bread and a small simple protein such as a wedge of cheese, boiled eggs, a grilled piece of fish or meat. Elliott-Howery became known for her pickles and ferments and locals would bring their excess in for her to preserve and it would end up on the menu later in the year. Soon after they started up a pickles and cooking school to share her knowledge and opened another cafe as she continued to spread the word about food sustainability. THE BOOK: Images and text from Pocket Pickler by Alex Elliott-Howery, photography by Alan Benson. Murdoch Books RRP $32.99. She has also authored four cookbooks plus her latest Pocket Pickler. ''Pickling for us has come to represent much more than just delicious condiments. ''While pickling and eating pickles, we talk about the importance of cooking from scratch and knowing where your food comes from, share helpful tips to reduce food waste and teach food history and sustainability.'' Having a pantry full of home-made pickles and chutneys is a very satisfying feeling as they quickly make a meal more interesting and you always have a gift on hand. ''It's a real buzz to know that you have rescued excess food and turned it into something delicious.'' Nothing is safe from Elliot-Howery who turns all sorts into preserves including mango, stone fruits, grapes, Brussels sprouts and pears alongside more traditional green tomato, cauliflower and chilli relishes. Getting started is easy, she says. Just look in the fridge, fruit bowl or garden and see what needs using up. Get some vinegar, sugar, salt, a few spices, a saucepan and a few jars and read up about the process of pickling, jar sterilisation. ''Start small and give it a go. ''Then the next time you're doing the shopping, grab a big bottle of vinegar and a couple of kilograms of something that's cheap, abundant, in season and looking good and try your hand at making a bigger batch.'' Pocket Pickler is divided into the seasons to make it quick and easy to find recipes for what's in season now to turn into a pickle, chutney or ferment. Rhubarb & red onion relish Makes 4 x 300ml (1¼ cup) jars Lovely with cheddar, eggs or at a barbecue or Christmas lunch, this is an excellent relish to stock in the pantry or give as a gift. Roasting the rhubarb really intensifies the flavour, so don't skip this step. It also cuts down on cooking time, once it's in the pot. Ingredients 1kg rhubarb stalks, washed, trimmed and cut into 5cm lengths 2 Tbsp caster (superfine) sugar 500ml (2 cups) red wine vinegar 80ml (⅓ cup) vegetable oil 500g red onion, thinly sliced 50g grated fresh ginger 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander ½ tsp ground fenugreek 2-3 garlic cloves, crushed 500g apples, peeled and grated 200g (1 scant cup) brown sugar 1-2 tsp salt Method Preheat the oven to 180°C. Spread the rhubarb evenly over two baking trays. Sprinkle with the caster sugar and 80 ml (⅓ cup) of the vinegar. Mix with your hands to combine. Roast the rhubarb for about 20 mins until soft and slightly caramelised. Meanwhile, heat the vegetable oil in a non-reactive, medium-sized saucepan. Add the onion and sauté over medium heat for about eight mins, until soft and translucent. Add the ginger, spices and garlic, saute two mins until fragrant, stirring constantly. Add the roasted rhubarb to the pan, along with the remaining vinegar, grated apple, brown sugar and salt, stirring to combine well. Reduce the heat to low. Simmer, uncovered, for about 30 mins, stirring now and then, until the relish is thick and glossy, with no puddles on the surface. Meanwhile, sterilise your jars and lids. Carefully fill the hot jars with the hot relish. Remove any air bubbles by gently tapping each jar on the work surface and sliding a clean butterknife or chopstick around the inside to release any hidden air pockets. Wipe the rims of the jars with a paper towel or a clean damp cloth and seal immediately. Leave to cool on the benchtop, then store in the fridge for up to six months. To extend the shelf life to two years, heat-process the jars for 10 mins. Once opened, refrigerate and use within three months. TIP: If you have some relish left over after you've filled your jars, store it in an airtight container in the fridge and use within three weeks. Chilli sambal We make mountains of this sambal when chilli season is in full swing. So quick and easy to make, it gives tacos, rice dishes, marinades and breakfast eggs a good hit of heat. We use carrot as a base in this recipe as it adds sweetness and gives the sambal a fantastically bright colour, but you could experiment with other bases such as green mango or pineapple. Try green or yellow chillies too. With fruit-based sambals, you may need to add more vinegar to loosen them. Keep tasting and adjusting the sugar to salt ratio until you're happy with the flavour. Makes 4-5 x 375ml (1½ cup) jars Ingredients 750g long mild red chillies 250g carrot 50g knob of fresh ginger 4 garlic cloves 55g (¼ cup) caster (superfine) sugar 1 Tbsp salt 185ml (¾ cup) white wine vinegar Method Sterilise your jars and lids. Roughly chop the chillies, carrot, ginger and garlic. Put them in a food processor with the sugar and salt and blitz for 5 mins. Slowly pour in the vinegar until your sambal has a smooth consistency; you may need to adjust the quantity. When the jars are cool enough to handle, pack the sambal into the jars, pressing down firmly to make sure the chilli paste is covered in a thin layer of liquid. Remove any air bubbles by gently tapping each jar on the work surface and sliding a clean butter knife or chopstick around the inside to release any hidden air pockets. Wipe the rims of the jars with a paper towel or a clean damp cloth and seal immediately. You can store the sambal in the fridge for up to 3 months, or heat-process the jars for 10 mins and store in a cool, dark place for up to 2 years. Once opened, refrigerate and use within 3 months. TIP: If your chillies are extra hot or if you prefer your sambal milder, you can always change the ratio. Try 500g carrot to 500g chillies or even 750g carrot to 250g chillies. Rescued apple chutney We used to make this chutney a lot when the children were little, using up all the apples from the fruit bowl with only one little bite taken out. This recipe is a good way to rescue fruit that is floury, bruised or wrinkled. Try it with pears, plums or even pumpkin (squash). Change the spices to whatever you have in the pantry. Makes 1 x 500ml (2 cup) jar Ingredients 3 Tbsp olive, sunflower or vegetable oil 1 small onion, thinly sliced 1 tsp salt 1 tsp brown or yellow mustard seeds ½ tsp ground cinnamon A pinch of ground cloves (or use 2 whole cloves) A pinch of cayenne pepper 1-2 Tbsp grated fresh ginger 3 apples, roughly chopped with the skin on 125 ml (½ cup) red wine vinegar, white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar 55g (¼ cup) sugar of your choice Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat and saute the onion (or that half onion leftover in the fridge) with the salt until soft and sweet. Add the mustard seeds, cinnamon, cloves, cayenne and ginger. Mix well, then throw in the apples, vinegar and sugar. Reduce the heat and gently simmer until you have a thick and glossy chutney (add a little water if the chutney starts to look dry). Taste and add extra spices or sugar if needed. Allow to cool a little, then spoon into an airtight container or clean jar and store in the fridge for up to 1 month. How-to guide Sterilising jars and bottles To sterilise jars or bottles, give them a wash in hot soapy water and a good rinse, then place them upright in a baking dish in a cold oven. Heat the oven to 110°C (225°F) and, once it has reached temperature, leave the jars in the oven for about 10-15 mins, or until completely dry, then remove them carefully. For hot packing, pour the hot chutney straight into the hot jars; for cold packing, let the jars cool before adding your pickles or preserves. To sterilise the lids, place them in a large saucepan of boiling water for 5 mins, then drain and dry with clean paper towels, or leave them on a wire rack to air dry. Ensure they are completely dry before using. Heat-processing Also called water bathing or canning, this process uses heat to stop the growth of bacteria. It generates pressure inside the preserving jar or bottle, which forces out any oxygen, creating an uninhabitable environment for micro-organisms. Treating your preserves in this way has two benefits: it lengthens their shelf life, and it ensures the jars or bottles are sealed correctly. Opinions differ on when heat-processing is necessary, but at Cornersmith we encourage our students to heat-process any cold-packed preserves, pickles and bottled fruit as well as large batches of chutneys and jams. Get the biggest pan you have, such as a stockpot the taller, the better and put it on the stovetop. Lay a folded tea towel (dish towel) in the bottom of the pan, then sit your jars on the tea towel, taking care not to cram them in, and keeping them clear of the sides of the pan. (All these measures are to stop the jars from wobbling around and cracking as the water boils.) Roughly match the water temperature to the temperature of the jars (to help prevent breakages from thermal shock), then pour in enough water to cover the jars, either completely or at least until three-quarters submerged. Bring to the boil over medium heat. The heat-processing times given in the recipes start from boiling point, and will generally be 10-15 mins for jars or bottles up to 500ml (2 cup) capacity, or 20 mins for larger capacities. You might have one or two breakages when you're starting out. The worst that can happen is that the remaining jars will swim in pickles for the rest of the processing time. Just keep going, then take the surviving jars out at the end and give them a wipe down. If they all break, you have our permission to have a gin and a lie down! Once the heat-processing time is up, the lids should be puffed up and convex. Carefully remove the hot jars from the water. If you've bought some clamps, now is the time to use them, or you can use oven mitts and a thick cloth to protect your hands. Line your jars up on the benchtop and let them sit overnight. As they cool, a vacuum will form inside each jar and suck down the lid, sealing them securely. In the morning, the lids should be concave: either get down to eye level with the top of the jar to check for the tell-tale dip in the lid, or lay a pencil across each lid to show the cavity below it. If you have concerns about the seal of any of your jars (sometimes a couple of jars fail to seal correctly), store them in the fridge and use their contents within a few weeks.
