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Mapping the Jalabiya Across the MENA Region
Mapping the Jalabiya Across the MENA Region

CairoScene

time24-06-2025

  • General
  • CairoScene

Mapping the Jalabiya Across the MENA Region

From Nile-side markets to Libyan weddings, we follow the jalabiya's journey across the Arab world and beyond. From Cairo to Khartoum, Jeddah to Casablanca, long, flowing robes—whether galabeya, jalabiya, thawb, kandura, or djellaba—form a shared sartorial language across the Arab world. As universal, and as locally inflected, as the Arabic language itself. The jalabiya may appear, at first glance, to be little more than a simple robe. But to call it that is to mistake a canvas for a sketch. Woven into cotton, linen, and wool, it is quite literally a fabric of history—practical and ceremonial, humble and ornate, a garment that embodies both uniformity and individual expression. Its simplicity is deceptive. It speaks the language of geography, shifting subtly with climate: breathable fabrics and loose silhouettes in the Gulf; thick wool in Morocco's mountain towns; delicate embroidery charting identity across Palestine. It signals class, gender, and place—women's galabeyas in Egypt are sometimes cinched and flared, while Saudi men wear theirs stark and straight-lined. Yet for all these distinctions, the jalabiya binds. Even in its most modest form, it carries weight: it absorbs the dust of history, the labour of daily life, and the stories of those who wear it. This is an exploration of that continuity: from Cairo's markets to Marrakech's souks, Riyadh's mosques to Libyan festivals, we trace the threads of a garment worn by men and women, across cities and villages, in everyday life and celebration alike. Egypt's Galabeya Image Source: Fine Art America The galabeya has been a staple of Egyptian dress for centuries. Its roots can be traced to ancient Egypt, where loose-fitting linen garments were worn by both men and women for comfort in the heat. Among its closest ancestors is the Coptic tunic of the 6th–7th centuries: woolen, flowing, and T-shaped, with rounded necklines and bold tapestry motifs. One such example is housed at New York's Metropolitan Museum, a relic of Egypt's late Byzantine textile tradition. Today, men typically wear galabeyas that are straight-cut, pale in colour, and practical. Farmers wear them in the fields, Sufi dervishes during zikr, and elders to the mosque. The rural galabeya is marked by a wide, open neckline, often paired with an amamma (turban). Women's styles are more varied. The 'galabeya bi wist,' with its fitted bodice, flared skirt, and vibrant prints, has long been worn in rural Egypt—offering both function and femininity. The 'galabeya bi sufra' is looser, with a yoked construction and more relaxed fit. Sudan's Jalabiya and Toub Photo Credit: UNEP In Sudan, traditional dress reflects national pride and regional diversity. The jalabiya, worn by both men and women, is loose, ankle-length, and often white cotton—ideal for Sudan's climate. Men typically pair it with a turban (ammama), and depending on occasion or region, add layers: the jibba (outerwear), kaftan (undergarment), or sederi (vest). Women wear the toub—a vibrant, rectangular cloth wrapped around body and head. The fabric's pattern, drape, and texture often reflect tribe, taste, and social standing. Saudi Arabia's Thawb Photo Credit: Hassan Ammar In Saudi Arabia, the thawb remains the foundation of men's dress: ankle-length, crisp white, and tailored in cotton or polyester blends. Subtle variations in collars, cuffs, and buttons mark regional and personal style. Some include understated embroidery or tonal piping. It's a daily uniform and formalwear in one—rooted in function, refined in detail. The Emirati Kandura and Mukhawar The Emirati kandura is similar in silhouette to the thawb but distinct in design. Collarless, with a rounded neckline and a signature tassel (tarboosh), it's tailored for both heat and heritage. Sleeve and cuff variations indicate regional style across the Emirates. Women wear the mukhawar, a traditionally modest home garment made from cotton or silk and heavily embroidered at the sleeves, hem, and neckline—often in gold or silver thread. Once reserved for domestic settings, it's now worn on festive occasions such as Eid and Ramadan gatherings. Morocco's Djellaba Photo Credit: Christopher Pillitiz Across the Maghreb, men and women wear the djellaba—a hooded, full-length robe with wide sleeves and a pointed qob(hood). Wool versions are favoured in cold mountain towns, while lighter cottons suit coastal and desert heat. Women's djellabas are often brightly coloured and intricately embroidered with sfifa trim and ma'allem hand-stitching. Sequins or crystals may be added for weddings and holidays. For formal occasions, women may wear a belt (mdamma) and jewellery to elevate the look. Tunisia's Jebba and Sefsari Tunisian men wear the jebba—a formal tunic layered over a shirt (chamîr) and trousers (sarouel), paired with a vest (farmla) and embroidered belt (hzam). Made of wool, silk, or velvet, the jebba is worn at weddings, religious festivals, and national ceremonies. Its elaborate embroidery reflects Tunisia's hybrid of Ottoman, Berber, Arab, and Andalusian design. Women traditionally wear the sefsari—a flowing white veil of silk or cotton, wrapped around the body and head as a symbol of grace and modesty. Libya's Farmla Photo Credit: AFP In Libya, traditional dress blends Mediterranean flair with Ottoman heritage. The jalabiya is worn daily by men and women—typically white, lightweight, and loose-fitting. Men pair it with the farmla, a richly embroidered vest made of velvet or fine fabric, often decorated with gold or silver thread in floral or geometric motifs. The influence of Ottoman trade and aesthetics is evident in the patterns and craftsmanship. Women's attire is equally ornate: regionally varied robes layered with capes, silver jewellery, and embroidered belts—each ensemble a showcase of local artisanal heritage. Palestine's Thobe Image Source: Fine Art America While not technically a jalabiya, the thobe shares its structure: long, flowing, and layered with cultural meaning. For Palestinian women, it is a canvas of hand-stitched embroidery (tatreez), with motifs unique to region, status, and occasion. Each stitch tells a story: thobes from Ramallah are marked by bold red cross-stitching; those from Bethlehem often feature fine gold and silver couching. Colours and placement are never arbitrary. For men, the jalabiya remains a functional garment in rural areas—loose, breathable, and practical for labour. While increasingly rare in urban settings, it endures as part of the country's living heritage.

Mapping the Japabiya Across the MENA Region
Mapping the Japabiya Across the MENA Region

CairoScene

time24-06-2025

  • General
  • CairoScene

Mapping the Japabiya Across the MENA Region

From Nile-side markets to Libyan weddings, we follow the jalabiya's journey across the Arab world and beyond. From Cairo to Khartoum, Jeddah to Casablanca, long, flowing robes—whether galabeya, jalabiya, thawb, kandura, or djellaba—form a shared sartorial language across the Arab world. As universal, and as locally inflected, as the Arabic language itself. The jalabiya may appear, at first glance, to be little more than a simple robe. But to call it that is to mistake a canvas for a sketch. Woven into cotton, linen, and wool, it is quite literally a fabric of history—practical and ceremonial, humble and ornate, a garment that embodies both uniformity and individual expression. Its simplicity is deceptive. It speaks the language of geography, shifting subtly with climate: breathable fabrics and loose silhouettes in the Gulf; thick wool in Morocco's mountain towns; delicate embroidery charting identity across Palestine. It signals class, gender, and place—women's galabeyas in Egypt are sometimes cinched and flared, while Saudi men wear theirs stark and straight-lined. Yet for all these distinctions, the jalabiya binds. Even in its most modest form, it carries weight: it absorbs the dust of history, the labour of daily life, and the stories of those who wear it. This is an exploration of that continuity: from Cairo's markets to Marrakech's souks, Riyadh's mosques to Libyan festivals, we trace the threads of a garment worn by men and women, across cities and villages, in everyday life and celebration alike. Egypt's Galabeya Image Source: Fine Art America The galabeya has been a staple of Egyptian dress for centuries. Its roots can be traced to ancient Egypt, where loose-fitting linen garments were worn by both men and women for comfort in the heat. Among its closest ancestors is the Coptic tunic of the 6th–7th centuries: woolen, flowing, and T-shaped, with rounded necklines and bold tapestry motifs. One such example is housed at New York's Metropolitan Museum, a relic of Egypt's late Byzantine textile tradition. Today, men typically wear galabeyas that are straight-cut, pale in colour, and practical. Farmers wear them in the fields, Sufi dervishes during zikr, and elders to the mosque. The rural galabeya is marked by a wide, open neckline, often paired with an amamma (turban). Women's styles are more varied. The 'galabeya bi wist,' with its fitted bodice, flared skirt, and vibrant prints, has long been worn in rural Egypt—offering both function and femininity. The 'galabeya bi sufra' is looser, with a yoked construction and more relaxed fit. Sudan's Jalabiya and Toub Photo Credit: UNEP In Sudan, traditional dress reflects national pride and regional diversity. The jalabiya, worn by both men and women, is loose, ankle-length, and often white cotton—ideal for Sudan's climate. Men typically pair it with a turban (ammama), and depending on occasion or region, add layers: the jibba (outerwear), kaftan (undergarment), or sederi (vest). Women wear the toub—a vibrant, rectangular cloth wrapped around body and head. The fabric's pattern, drape, and texture often reflect tribe, taste, and social standing. Saudi Arabia's Thawb Photo Credit: Hassan Ammar In Saudi Arabia, the thawb remains the foundation of men's dress: ankle-length, crisp white, and tailored in cotton or polyester blends. Subtle variations in collars, cuffs, and buttons mark regional and personal style. Some include understated embroidery or tonal piping. It's a daily uniform and formalwear in one—rooted in function, refined in detail. The Emirati Kandura and Mukhawar The Emirati kandura is similar in silhouette to the thawb but distinct in design. Collarless, with a rounded neckline and a signature tassel (tarboosh), it's tailored for both heat and heritage. Sleeve and cuff variations indicate regional style across the Emirates. Women wear the mukhawar, a traditionally modest home garment made from cotton or silk and heavily embroidered at the sleeves, hem, and neckline—often in gold or silver thread. Once reserved for domestic settings, it's now worn on festive occasions such as Eid and Ramadan gatherings. Morocco's Djellaba Photo Credit: Christopher Pillitiz Across the Maghreb, men and women wear the djellaba—a hooded, full-length robe with wide sleeves and a pointed qob(hood). Wool versions are favoured in cold mountain towns, while lighter cottons suit coastal and desert heat. Women's djellabas are often brightly coloured and intricately embroidered with sfifa trim and ma'allem hand-stitching. Sequins or crystals may be added for weddings and holidays. For formal occasions, women may wear a belt (mdamma) and jewellery to elevate the look. Tunisia's Jebba and Sefsari Tunisian men wear the jebba—a formal tunic layered over a shirt (chamîr) and trousers (sarouel), paired with a vest (farmla) and embroidered belt (hzam). Made of wool, silk, or velvet, the jebba is worn at weddings, religious festivals, and national ceremonies. Its elaborate embroidery reflects Tunisia's hybrid of Ottoman, Berber, Arab, and Andalusian design. Women traditionally wear the sefsari—a flowing white veil of silk or cotton, wrapped around the body and head as a symbol of grace and modesty. Libya's Farmla Photo Credit: AFP In Libya, traditional dress blends Mediterranean flair with Ottoman heritage. The jalabiya is worn daily by men and women—typically white, lightweight, and loose-fitting. Men pair it with the farmla, a richly embroidered vest made of velvet or fine fabric, often decorated with gold or silver thread in floral or geometric motifs. The influence of Ottoman trade and aesthetics is evident in the patterns and craftsmanship. Women's attire is equally ornate: regionally varied robes layered with capes, silver jewellery, and embroidered belts—each ensemble a showcase of local artisanal heritage. Palestine's Thobe Image Source: Fine Art America While not technically a jalabiya, the thobe shares its structure: long, flowing, and layered with cultural meaning. For Palestinian women, it is a canvas of hand-stitched embroidery (tatreez), with motifs unique to region, status, and occasion. Each stitch tells a story: thobes from Ramallah are marked by bold red cross-stitching; those from Bethlehem often feature fine gold and silver couching. Colours and placement are never arbitrary. For men, the jalabiya remains a functional garment in rural areas—loose, breathable, and practical for labour. While increasingly rare in urban settings, it endures as part of the country's living heritage.

RSF launches drone attack on military base inside Port Sudan airport
RSF launches drone attack on military base inside Port Sudan airport

The National

time04-05-2025

  • Politics
  • The National

RSF launches drone attack on military base inside Port Sudan airport

Sudan 's paramilitary Rapid Support Forces on Sunday attacked with drones a military airbase that is part of the international airport at the Red Sea city of Port Sudan, the first attack of any kind on the de facto capital since the Sudanese civil war broke out two years ago. Military spokesman Brig Gen Nabil Abdullah said the suicide drones attacked an ammunition depot, triggering a series of explosions. They also hit a warehouse and several civilian installations he did not specify. There were no casualties, he added. Videos shared online and shot minutes after the drones struck purported to show a large ball of fire followed by a cloud of dark smoke near the airport's tarmac. The National could not independently verify the authenticity of the footage. Sunday's attack on the air force's Osman Dukna base in Port Sudan signals a dangerous shift in the course of the war between the RSF and the armed forces. While the use of drones by the RSF will not win territory for the paramilitary, it will have a psychologically disturbing impact on civilians in army-controlled areas and undermine the military's image as the nation's protector. Port Sudan lies about 650 kilometres from the nearest known RSF positions on the outskirts of Khartoum to the West. On Saturday, Kassala airport was also targeted by RSF drones, according to witnesses in the city in the eastern region of Sudan. Officials said flights were temporarily suspended at Port Sudan airport pending a review of the security situation at the site. Already, a Port Sudan-bound flight from Addis Ababa scheduled for Sunday afternoon was cancelled, according to a passenger who spoke to The National. Five domestic flights also scheduled for Sunday were cancelled, said the officials. Port Sudan has been the de facto capital of Sudan since not long after the RSF overran most of Khartoum in the early days of the war. Army chief Gen Abdel Fattah Al Burhan escaped there following months of being besieged by RSF fighters at the armed troops headquarters in Khartoum. Port Sudan now is the seat of the military-backed government and is home to the only international airport in areas controlled by the army. It is also used as the main base for foreign diplomats and UN agencies. The army regained control of Khartoum international airport in March as part of an offensive that rid the city of the RSF, but it remains closed to this day. The RSF, which has not commented on Sunday's attack, has in recent weeks attacked power stations in army-controlled locations in central and northern Sudan, causing power cuts and raising speculation that the paramilitary might take the fighting to parts of Sudan that had not been touched by the war. The recent spate of drone attacks followed the RSF's withdrawal from the sprawling, Nile-side capital and appear to make good on pledges by RSF commanders that no place in Sudan would be safe from the paramilitary. Sudan's civil war, the latest in a series of domestic conflicts to plague Sudan since independence nearly 70 years ago, broke out when months of tension between the army and RSF, led by Gen Mohamed Dagalo, turned into open conflict. Both generals profess to be fighting for Sudan's democracy and prosperity. The army controls the capital as well as north, east and central Sudan, while the RSF controls most of the vast western Darfur region and parts of Kordofan to the south-west and the south. The war has left tens of thousands dead and displaced at least 13 million people. About 26 million in Sudan, more than half the population, face acute hunger, with pockets of famine surfacing across the vast, Afro-Arab nation. The war, according to experts, carries the potential of turning into a regional conflict, drawing in some of Sudan's neighbours, like Chad, South Sudan and Libya.

Sudan's refugees face 'terrifying' realities on return to war-ravaged Khartoum
Sudan's refugees face 'terrifying' realities on return to war-ravaged Khartoum

The National

time03-05-2025

  • General
  • The National

Sudan's refugees face 'terrifying' realities on return to war-ravaged Khartoum

Muzmil Salah has been charging his mobile phone at a nearby grocery store, where the owner uses solar panels to generate electricity. When Mr Salah wants to call or text, he often runs to the roof of his Khartoum home to find signal. But that is not the most difficult issue he has had to face since returning to his home two weeks ago from Kassala, in eastern Sudan. He and his family had fled there to escape the war between the country's army and the paramilitary Rapid Support Forces. "It's terrifying at night. Homes and streets are engulfed in total darkness. I never leave home after sunset," Mr Salah says. He insists he will only bring his family back from Kassala once he repairs his war-damaged home, replaces his looted furniture and electrical appliances and, perhaps most importantly, feels that security has improved sufficiently. A lack of state-supplied electricity is one of many hardships he has endured, alongside the tens of thousands of Sudanese who have returned to the capital after being displaced abroad or elsewhere in Sudan. Other challenges include the absence of running water, sky-high food prices, scarce healthcare services and a precarious security situation. The RSF still holds positions on the fringes of the capital, from which long-range artillery is occasionally launched at the Nile-side city. "I am not sure you will actually get this voice note. My battery is at 18 per cent and the signal is very bad. I may have to run up to the roof to send it," Mr Salah tells The National. Of Sudan's estimated population of 50 million, at least 13 million have been displaced by the war, according to UN figures. These include about three million who have taken refuge abroad, mostly in neighbouring Egypt, Chad, the Central African Republic and South Sudan. Recent battlefield victories restored the army's control of the capital's three sister cities – Khartoum, Bahri and Omdurman – and the central, agriculture-rich region of Al Jazirah, south of the capital. The RSF continues to control all of the vast western region of Darfur, apart from the city of El Fasher, as well as parts of Kordofan to the south-west and the southern Blue Nile area. There are no reliable figures for the number of displaced Sudanese who have returned home, but they are thought to be in the tens of thousands. In many cases, men return on their own to determine whether it is safe enough for their families to return. They had fled to escape dangers including artillery and rocket fire, street battles and air strikes. Since the war began in April 2023, the RSF has been accused of looting, assaults, torture and arbitrary arrests in the capital. In some cases, the paramilitary's fighters stand accused of killing civilians. The army and its allied militias also face allegations of abuse or war crimes. They have been accused of execution-style killings of suspected RSF members or sympathisers in areas of the capital taken back from the RSF. The US has imposed sanctions on both army chief Gen Abdel Fattah Al Burhan and RSF commander Gen Mohamed Dagalo. Sudanese who returned to Khartoum have found a city that bears the scars of war, from the charred skeletons of cars, damaged buildings and streets strewn with debris. "My home has been stripped of its windows, doors, water tank, furniture and the kitchen," says Ali Siddiq, a lecturer at Bahri university who has returned to his home in the Khartoum district of Burri. He lived in Egypt with his family for nearly two years. "The house's walls need restoration, but it's financially difficult for me at the moment to do the repairs," he adds. "Most markets in my area are shut and my neighbours haven't come back. The city is deserted, mostly damaged. It's terrifying to live here." Others, including Ezzedeen Youssef from Khartoum's Al Qadissiya district, are so shocked by the conditions in the city that they have urged friends and family to stay away. Mukhtar Mohammed, from Khartoum's Al Azhary district, says families with small children or elderly relatives should not return because of the lack of healthcare services. "There's also the harassment we face at army checkpoints," Mr Ezzedeen adds. "They ask too many questions, many of them unnecessary." Al Shafie Ahmed reported from Kampala, Uganda

Egyptian Riverside Elegance at the New Hilton Cairo Nile Maadi
Egyptian Riverside Elegance at the New Hilton Cairo Nile Maadi

CairoScene

time22-02-2025

  • Business
  • CairoScene

Egyptian Riverside Elegance at the New Hilton Cairo Nile Maadi

Right in the heart of the city, Hilton Cairo Nile Maadi blends sweeping Nile views with ancient Egyptian charm. If there's one thing that never gets old, it's a stunning Nile view—and the new Hilton Cairo Nile Maadi has a front-row seat. Right on the corniche of Cairo's upscale area of Maadi, on the banks of one of the most legendary rivers in the world, the newly-opened 255-key hotel offers sweeping views of the historic city below and the Pyramids of Giza beyond. Paying tribute to the rich history that once glided along the ancient river, the hotel's contemporary interiors feature ancient Egyptian motifs, locally inspired artworks, and a striking lobby centerpiece—an installation of draped white cloth suspended from the ceiling, a nod to the iconic Nile felucca. 'Hilton has a strong legacy in Egypt, where we have operated for more than 60 years,' Guy Hutchinson—President, MEA at Hilton—tells SceneTraveller. 'The opening of Hilton Cairo Nile Maadi is just one exciting step towards our plan of tripling our portfolio in the country.' Just minutes away from the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization, Hilton Cairo Nile Maadi, which was developed by Saudi Egyptian Developers, serves up four restaurants and bars that take guests on a journey of delectable flavours—from Levantine delicacies at Dayma to international favourites at the Nile-facing O'Nile Restaurant, where you can linger for hours, watching the city hum and the river flow. For a more laid-back experience, Tonic Pool Bar & Restaurant stands ready to serve some casual bites. Beyond the culinary, the hotel also features six meeting rooms capable of hosting up to 500 guests, a state-of-the-art fitness center, where you can run as you admire the views, and, most excitingly, the first ever eforea Spa in Egypt. Here, you can find targeted treatments, full-body therapies, and ancient healing practices, such as cupping and massages that incorporate warm sand. 'From reliable and friendly service and state-of-the-art amenities to compelling dining options and breathtaking views, we look forward to welcoming guests to a memorable stay at our outstanding property,' Haitham Nassar, General Manager of Hilton Cairo Nile Maadi, shares with SceneTraveller. 'We take a lot of pride in our newest hotel in Cairo and look forward to welcoming visitors to experience everything the city has to offer.' And, if you're looking for even more perks, Hilton Honors members can get their hands on exclusive discounts, opt for contactless check-in, and earn points for future stays, so you can easily come back, and experience all the Nile-side lavishness Hilton Cairo Nile Maadi has to offer.

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