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Behind The Scenes At Thomas Keller's Per Se
Behind The Scenes At Thomas Keller's Per Se

Forbes

time3 days ago

  • Entertainment
  • Forbes

Behind The Scenes At Thomas Keller's Per Se

Top Chefs: Per Se founder Thomas Keller and chef de cuisine Chad Palagi oversee the restaurant's ... More kitchen. Perched on the top floor of the Deutsche Bank Center in Manhattan's Columbus Circle, Per Se—helmed by world-renowned chef and TKRG founder Thomas Keller—received a glowing commendation from The New York Times' Frank Bruni soon after it opened in 2004, collecting countless accolades in the years that followed. Keller's urban rendition of The French Laundry, the upscale eatery has been awarded three Michelin stars every year since 2006, cementing its reputation as one of New York City's top spots for fine dining. But in recent years, critics have deemed it out of reach and out of touch, often pointing to its dated decor and eye-watering prices, which include $925 per person for the extended Chef's Tasting—a cost, some may argue, that only the top one percent can stomach. Despite generating mixed reviews and battling an unsavory lawsuit filed by a former staffer (which was initially dismissed and ultimately settled), Per Se has managed to maintain a stable of loyal employees, with more than a quarter of its 112-person team having worked at the restaurant for over five years. It's a noteworthy achievement given the industry's notoriously high turnover rate, which has averaged 79.6% since 2013, chiefly due to workers fed up with limited upward mobility, poor benefits, and low appreciation. 'When I first started at Per Se, I didn't imagine I would be here for more than a decade,' says Kimberly Suzuka, who met her husband while working at The French Laundry before transitioning to its East Coast satellite. In 2018, the Culinary Institute of America graduate, who began as Per Se's lead host and later served as its culinary liaison, was promoted to her current title of guest relations manager—a position made just for her. 'When a role is created for you specifically, you don't take that lightly,' she insists, crediting her professional success to TKRG's culture of promoting guidance and education. Catching Fire: Since joining the Per Se team in 2014, Kimberly Suzuka (center) has quickly climbed ... More up the ladder. Executive pastry chef Elaine Smyth—who started her journey at Per Se as a humble chef de partie in 2012—recalls how her predecessor, Elwyn Boyles, would patiently explain every step of each process and push her to ask questions. 'I benefitted immensely from his mentorship and his belief in me helped me earn my promotion to pastry sous chef after only three years,' she effuses. In addition, as the two-time winner of TKRG's experiential scholarship, she was granted the rare opportunity to study cocoa farming in Peru and learn traditional salt raking in France with esteemed chef Olivier Roellinger. Dessert Doyenne: Executive pastry chef Elaine Smyth surveys the dining room at Per Se. 'Working here is like a graduate school for chefs,' says Chad Palagi, who started out as a commis at Per Se in 2013 and quickly rose up the ranks to sous chef. Following the birth of his first child, the Napa Valley native wanted to focus more on his family, choosing to part from the restaurant in 2017. 'But I quickly found myself missing the culture of Per Se and the dedication of its staff,' he confesses. So a few years later, he decided to return as Per Se's chef de cuisine. 'The most fulfilling part of my job is mentoring young culinarians,' he enthuses. 'Watching them grow from having little experience to becoming skilled professionals—and eventually become chefs in their own right—is truly amazing.' The restaurant's nurturing environment has led it to produce a number of rising stars in the culinary world—among them, Jonny Black, former chef de partie, who now runs Chez Noir, a James Beard Award finalist for 2024 Best Restaurant of the Year. There's also married alums Matt Danzer and Ann Redding, best known for opening the late Uncle Boons and wildly popular Thai Diner in Lower Manhattan. Not to mention Josh Finger and Maggie McConnell, another husband-and-wife duo who met while working in Per Se's kitchen, whose high-end European tasting concept, Claudine, is set to debut tomorrow in downtown Providence. At Per Se, the menu changes daily, determined by the season and quality of the products available. With the exception of the restaurant's three golden offerings—truffles, caviar, and foie gras—no ingredient is ever repeated across a meal. That calls for precise communication between station chefs, who congregate nightly to chew over the next day's dishes. 'We review our lists and also what is available from our farmers and foragers,' Palagi explains. From there, 'we develop our compositions, discussing our desired flavor profiles and techniques for each ingredient.' Gold Plating: Chef Palagi applies the finishing touches to a dish at Per Se. The restaurant regularly invites its vendors to train the culinary staff—whether it's introducing them to a different type of truffle, a unique wine, or a new kind of cutlery. 'It allows us to come together, learn about the stories behind the ingredients and craftsmanship, and gain a deeper appreciation for the meticulous processes involved in sourcing them,' notes Sandra Bohlsen, Per Se's general manager since 2019. 'It's a wonderful chance for the team to bond while expanding our knowledge and connection to the products we work with.' In addition, whenever a new dish debuts, 'we always taste it together and share our thoughts,' Smyth reveals, adding that the evening crew will often leave a note for the morning staff detailing anecdotes from the previous night's service, such as an especially delighted guest. The kitchen team then relays its plan to the dining room staff—a collaborative practice that has 'afforded us 21 years of consistency and makes us who we are,' Bohlsen asserts. The entire Per Se team is driven by Chef Keller's famously high standards, summed up by two motivational signs hanging in the restaurant's kitchen: 'Sense of Urgency,' aptly placed beneath a clock, and the dictionary definition of 'finesse,' posted above the exit—a constant reminder for the staff to maintain refinement and delicacy in their work. Leading Lady: In 2019, seven years after joining the Per Se team, Sandra Bohlsen was named the ... More restaurant's first female general manager. Bohlsen admits the job isn't always easy. 'I'm constantly challenged, stepping outside of my comfort zone, and learning every day,' she divulges, noting that her journey has had its fair share of ups and downs. 'But what's most important is the ability to rise, adjust your crown, and keep moving forward.'

Haverhill gets a breezy rooftop bar; Providence welcomes Per Se alums with Claudine
Haverhill gets a breezy rooftop bar; Providence welcomes Per Se alums with Claudine

Boston Globe

time13-06-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Boston Globe

Haverhill gets a breezy rooftop bar; Providence welcomes Per Se alums with Claudine

Coming soon : In Providence, Claudine (225 Weybosset St.) debuts on Thursday, June 26, led by husband-wife team Josh Finger and Maggie McConnell, who met at Thomas Keller's Michelin-starred Per Se in New York City. McConnell grew up in Providence. Advertisement 'We've dedicated our whole lives to food … and going out to eat. And there aren't a ton of places to go [in Providence] on a high-end level,' McConnell said in a March With 26 seats, Claudine will serve an ever-evolving, eight-course, $165 tasting menu spotlighting New England ingredients, alongside a $100 French-focused wine or a $65 non-alcoholic beverage pairing. Visit Thursday through Sunday from 4:30 p.m.; reservations open on the first of every month for the next month's seating. Olive oil cake and yogurt panna cotta with winter citrus at Claudine. Handout In Allston, look for a new branch of salad-and-stir-fry chain honeygrow (305 Guest St.) later this summer. And in Brookline, expect a version of the popular and aptly named Cambridge diner Busy Bee (1046 Beacon St.), says owner Mahmood Abu-Rubieh. Advertisement Kara Baskin can be reached at

Semtech's Q1 Earnings Match Estimates, Revenues Increase Y/Y
Semtech's Q1 Earnings Match Estimates, Revenues Increase Y/Y

Yahoo

time28-05-2025

  • Business
  • Yahoo

Semtech's Q1 Earnings Match Estimates, Revenues Increase Y/Y

Semtech Corporation SMTC reported first-quarter fiscal 2026 earnings, wherein the bottom line was in line with the Zacks Consensus Estimate and the top line surpassed the same. SMTC reported first-quarter non-GAAP earnings of 38 cents per share, which matched the Zacks Consensus Estimate. The bottom line exceeded management's guidance of 37 cents per share and showed a robust improvement of more than sixfold from the year-ago quarter's earnings of 6 company's impressive bottom-line performance demonstrated benefits of increased revenues, operational efficiency and effective expense management. Semtech has surpassed the Zacks Consensus Estimate for earnings thrice in the trailing four quarters, while matching the same on one occasion, the average surprise being 10.8%.Semtech's first-quarter fiscal 2026 revenues of $251.1 million beat the Zacks Consensus Estimate by 0.44% and came above the midpoint of management's guidance of $245-$250 million. The top line jumped 22% year over year, with solid growth across all of its end markets, particularly in data company's latest quarterly results are likely to give a fresh boost to its shares. Shares of SMTC have plunged 38.5%, underperforming the Zacks Semiconductor - Analog and Mixed industry's decline of 5.4%. Semtech Corporation price-consensus-eps-surprise-chart | Semtech Corporation Quote SMTC's top-line performance can be attributed to the impressive year-over-year rise in its end from the infrastructure market were $72.8 million (29% of net sales), exhibiting year-over-year growth of 30%. This was driven by solid demand for data centres and continued investment in from the industrial market were $142.8 million (56.9% of net sales), up 24% year over from the high-end consumer market were $35.4 million (14.1% of net sales), up 3% year over year. Strong design-in momentum for SurgeSwitch across multiple device manufacturers, along with broad PerSe proximity sensing deployments and best-in-class low power, sensitivity, and noise rejection, supports top-line growth. Signal Integrity (29.3% of net sales) sales were $73.5 million in the reported quarter, up 26.1% year over year. Analog Mixed Signal & Wireless (36.1% of net sales) sales were $90.6 million, up 20.3% year over System and Connectivity (34.6% of net sales) sales were $86.9 million, up 19.9% on a year-over-year basis. The non-GAAP gross margin of 53.5% expanded 370 basis points (bps) on a year-over-year basis and 30 bps operating expenses of $86.6 million were within SMTC's guidance range. On a year-over-year basis, adjusted operating expenses increased 11.9%.Non-GAAP operating income surged 88.9% year-over-year to $47.6 million. The non-GAAP operating margin improved to 19% from 12.2% reported in the year-ago Balance Sheet & Cash FlowAs of April 27, 2025, cash and cash equivalents were $156.5 million, up from $151.7 million as of Jan. 26, long-term debt was $542.6 million, up from the previous quarter's reported figure of $505.9 the first quarter, Semtech generated operating cash flow and free cash flow of $27.8 million and $26.2 million, respectively. For the second quarter, Semtech expects net sales of $256 million (+/- $5 million). The Zacks Consensus Estimate for the same is pegged at $255.3 million, indicating a year-over-year rise of 18.5%.SMTC expects infrastructure end-market net sales to increase sequentially, driven by data center growth, high-end consumer sales to rise slightly due to typical seasonality and industrial sales to remain flat to slightly down, as moderation in LoRa business to offset IoT cellular non-GAAP gross margin is expected to be 53% (+/- 50 bps). The non-GAAP operating margin is anticipated to be 18.8%.Non-GAAP earnings are expected to be 40 cents (+/- 3 cents) per share. The consensus mark for earnings is pegged at 39 cents per share, indicating a year-over-year rise of 254.6%. The figure remained unchanged over the past 60 days. (Find the latest EPS estimates and surprises on Zacks Earnings Calendar.) Currently, SMTC carries a Zacks Rank #3 (Hold).Paylocity Holding PCTY, StoneCo STNE and BlackBerry BB are some better-ranked stocks that investors can consider in the broader Zacks Computer & Technology STNE and BB sport a Zacks Rank #1 (Strong Buy) each at present. You can see the complete list of today's Zacks #1 Rank stocks shares have declined 1% year to date. The Zacks Consensus Estimate for PCTY's full-year 2025 earnings is pegged at $6.95 per share, up by 4.51% over the past 30 days, indicating an increase of 0.99% from the year-ago quarter's reported shares have surged 68.7% year to date. The Zacks Consensus Estimate for STNE's full-year 2025 earnings is pegged at $1.43 per share, up by 3.62% over the past 30 days, indicating a gain of 5.93% from the year-ago quarter's reported shares have gained 9.2% year to date. The Zacks Consensus Estimate for BB's full-year 2025 earnings per share is pegged at 10 cents, unchanged over the past 30 days, indicating a gain of 400% from the year-ago quarter's reported figure. Want the latest recommendations from Zacks Investment Research? Today, you can download 7 Best Stocks for the Next 30 Days. Click to get this free report Semtech Corporation (SMTC) : Free Stock Analysis Report Paylocity Holding Corporation (PCTY) : Free Stock Analysis Report BlackBerry Limited (BB) : Free Stock Analysis Report StoneCo Ltd. (STNE) : Free Stock Analysis Report This article originally published on Zacks Investment Research ( Zacks Investment Research Error in retrieving data Sign in to access your portfolio Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data

What other restaurant critics told me about their encounters with Thomas Keller
What other restaurant critics told me about their encounters with Thomas Keller

San Francisco Chronicle​

time20-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • San Francisco Chronicle​

What other restaurant critics told me about their encounters with Thomas Keller

Yesterday, I published an account of my visit to the French Laundry, truly a night to remember. I hope that you'll read it, but the tl;dr is that, after I was spotted, Thomas Keller called me outside and said he wasn't comfortable having me in his restaurant. We then chatted for half an hour, largely about his opinions on the current state of restaurant criticism. During the course of our conversation, Keller mentioned four critics by name — Michael Bauer and Soleil Ho of the Chronicle and Pete Wells and Melissa Clark of the New York Times. When I initially set out to write about the encounter, I thought I would give each the opportunity to respond, in their own words. Ho and Wells agreed to speak with me on the record. Clark confirmed the details of her own French Laundry visit but declined to comment, and Bauer wrote via email that, six years after stepping down as critic, he would prefer to stay out of controversies. The edit went in a different direction, and much of what Ho and Wells had to say ended up on the cutting room floor. But I found our conversations fascinating, and maybe you will as well? Here are some highlights. Ho had met Keller before becoming the Chronicle's restaurant critic. As a young line cook working in New Orleans, Ho had participated in a culinary competition run by Ment'or, a nonprofit that trains American chefs to compete on the world stage. Keller is the president of the foundation, and he was on the panel of judges that assessed Ho's work. During Ho's first visit to the French Laundry, they were recognized immediately. 'Culinary, they threw the book at us,' Ho told me, describing it as an overwhelming experience. The visit was, they knew, a waste, the treatment they received — complete with the offer of cigars — so far outside what a normal diner could expect that it verged on the unusable. In Ho's review, they wrote that their first visit was like being 'in the club,' and they expanded on this comment in our conversation. 'In retrospect, it feels like a mild, civil…' Ho searched for the right word. 'Warning might be too strong.' The message, as Ho interpreted it: ''You can have all these things, if we're on the same page.'' Ho felt like Keller was welcoming them into the in-crowd. The subtext? You're a former cook yourself. You're going to be one of the good critics, right? Have a cigar. Ho went on to dine at the French Laundry twice more and, remarkably, was not recognized either time. (They were not in disguise.) These two incognito meals allowed Ho to gauge more accurately the state of the restaurant, which led ultimately to a negative review. 'Once you're in the club, you want to stay in it, which is why it's hard to admit when something doesn't work,' they wrote. When I spoke with Wells, I told him how Keller contrasted the praise he receives from pleased guests with the prickly barbs of critics; in his review of Per Se, Wells memorably compared a mushroom soup to murky bong water. 'Well that's great,' Wells responded. I chuckled. 'No, I mean that sincerely,' he clarified. 'If you're pleasing people and they keep coming back, that's great.' Wells argued that, particularly in the case of a once-in-a-lifetime restaurant like the French Laundry or Per Se, you can't discount the different contexts of a critic and an average patron. A couple visiting the French Laundry might be spending the whole weekend in Napa in celebration of a 25th wedding anniversary. They're attending the magic show wanting to believe, not searching for the invisible wires. But, Wells said, 'As a critic, when you're going through the review process, especially at a really elaborate restaurant, you're looking for things that the average customer isn't looking for.' That's not to say we're approaching our restaurant meals as skeptics and meanies, searching for flaws. But we are at work, and it's our job to be observant. Maybe that couple celebrating their anniversary won't care about an unfilled water glass or a long pause between courses — but maybe they will. Since Wells' quip about bong water, whenever Keller has spotted critics like Ho and Clark at the French Laundry, he's sent them a glass bong filled with mushroom soup. What, he seems to be asking with tongue in cheek, are his critics smoking? I asked Wells how it felt to know that line must live rent free in Keller's head. 'It's always nice to be remembered,' he said.

They fell in love while cooking at NYC's Per Se. Now they're opening a tasting menu restaurant in Providence.
They fell in love while cooking at NYC's Per Se. Now they're opening a tasting menu restaurant in Providence.

Boston Globe

time11-03-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Boston Globe

They fell in love while cooking at NYC's Per Se. Now they're opening a tasting menu restaurant in Providence.

Advertisement An eight-course tasting will cost $165 per person. 'We've dedicated our whole lives to food... and going out to eat. And there aren't a ton of places to go [in Providence] on a high-end level,' McConnell said in an exclusive interview with the Boston Globe. 'While we love what's here, and we're excited to be adding to that community, I think we're bringing something that's a little different.' Tasting menus are 'what we've specialized in together for the last five or six years together, and it's not something that we've seen in Providence,' she added. A Quonnie Rock oyster with dry-aged beef tartare, oyster trim emulsion, capers, slow-cooked egg yolk puree at Claudine, an upcoming restaurant in downtown Providence, R.I. Courtesy of Claudine For McConnell, Claudine is a homecoming. She grew up in Providence, attended the Gordon School, and her father is 'If you're from here, you know how special it is,' said McConnell. 'In the back of my mind, even though I've lived in multiple places, I always knew that I would return here.' McConnell graduated from George Washington University in 2012, and followed her love for at-home baking and enrolled in a pastry certificate program at Le Cordon Bleu in Advertisement In 2018, McConnell moved back to the east coast to New York City, where she was pastry chef de partie at acclaimed Per Se. In an interview, she said she thrived in the fine-dining atmosphere. When the pandemic temporarily closed the restaurant, she worked at their sister restaurant in Napa Valley, The storefront at 225 Weybosset St., where Claudine will soon open in May. Pat Greenhouse/Globe Staff Finger grew up in Williamsburg, Va., where he watched his mother's career working in the dining rooms of restaurants. Claudine is actually named for her, Finger said. At 16, he started working as a stage, which is an unpaid intern working as a cook to learn and gain new experience, at a local bistro. He moved to New York City with a dream to learn from the culinary greats. And that he did: When he arrived, he secured a position at chef Advertisement During the pandemic, and unlike McConnell, Finger stayed at Per Se. By the time she returned to New York in November 2021, they were both in management positions. 'That's when we kind of 're-met' one another,' said McConnell. Sashimi of Rhode Island tuna with honeynut squash emulsion, clementine, fennel, and toasted pistachio at Claudine, an upcoming restaurant in downtown Providence, R.I. Courtesy of Claudine The pair shared a passion for culinary excellence, and bonded over running — a continued passion of Finger's, but not so much for McConnell. For the last two years, the two have taken their love for one another and the restaurant industry on the road, and hosted pop-up and collaboration dinners with other chefs. In April 2023, for instance, they hosted a collaborative seven-course dinner with beverage pairings at When it comes to them as a duo 'it's all about technique,' Delaney said in a phone interview. When you work for chef Keller, you get drilled into you that 'cooking is just an intersection of great technique and great products. Rhode Island is an amazing place, not only for seafood, but also for its resources,' said Delaney. 'I think [McConnell and Finger are] going to shine by taking this incredible technique they've spent their careers developing and then mixing it with amazing products.' Celeriac cream crepe cake with Burgundy wine and date puree at Claudine in Providence, R.I. Courtesy of Claudine Claudine's menu will evolve daily, and focus on hyper-local ingredients. They'll work closely with a network of farms, and dry age their own fish and meat in-house for menu items that may include a sashimi of dry-aged bluefin tuna. Dry-aging in-house has become more popular, particularly over the last five years, said Finger. 'But that's truly something that will be very unique to our restaurant,' he said. Advertisement Other items could include a pork and Point Judith squid raviolo with parmigiano reggiano, a roasted celeriac cream crepe cake with burgundy wine and date puree, and a citrus pavlova with campari sorbet. They're also taking on Keller's 'no problem' mentality, so allergy- and vegetarian-friendly tasting menus will be available with advanced notice of at least 48 hours. While there won't be any 'standard' items on the menu that will remain, each course will begin with a daily oyster dish, served in custom clay plates crafted by McConnell's aunt, a local ceramicist . Plated desserts will pull in nostalgic and classic flavors, in addition to meringue and ice creams. Pork and Point Judith squid raviolo with parmigiano reggiano and fried leeks at Claudine in Providence, R.I. Courtesy of Claudine The beverage program will focus on low-intervention, old-world wines; a non-alcoholic pairing menu; a selection of classic cocktails; and after-dinner digestives and spirits. They'll even make their own kombucha in-house. The restaurant will be located in the space that previously held 'It's our hope that every table feels like a chef's table,' said Finger. Claudine will be located at 225 Weybosset St. in Providence, R.I. The restaurant will be open Thursdays through Sundays evenings from 4:30 p.m. to midnight, with dinner reservations available from 4:30 to 8:30 p.m. Stay updated by following their Instagram or checking their . Advertisement Alexa Gagosz can be reached at

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