Latest news with #Roseberry
Elle
11-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Elle
Beating Hearts and Bioluminescent Gowns: How Couture Week Captured Our Attention
Every item on this page was chosen by an ELLE editor. We may earn commission on some of the items you choose to buy. Style Points is a column about how fashion intersects with the wider world. Ever since fashion's online audience grew to outstrip its offline one, designers have been crafting collections with our feeds in mind. Virality and good old-fashioned shock value became ways to claw into our consciousness, cutting through the morass of SEO results and doom-heavy headlines. And mere images alone don't do it for us anymore. Designers have increasingly ginned up videogenic moments—whether it be a living, 'breathing' runway or a musical performance—that will cut through the noise and stop us in our tracks, if only for a few moments. And while haute couture has long been a quieter realm, aimed at a hyper-specific audience and laser-focused on craft, it's lately been entering that fray. (After all, we all live under the same attention economy.) Daniel Roseberry, a true heir to the Elsa Schiaparelli school of all things shocking, has become a master of this art, creating conversation starters on and off the runway. This season, his Schiaparelli front row hosted Cardi B accessorizing with an actual raven (Poe would have a field day), and the collection included a gown with an anatomically correct heart that actually 'beat,' inspired by a Salvador Dalí piece. Roseberry's Instagram post of the piece drew almost 6 million views in one day. Then there was Iris van Herpen, perhaps couture's biggest wild card. Her collections have been inspired by everything from the mushroom network known as the 'wood wide web' to the unique properties of magnets. 'Sympoiesis,' meaning the interconnectedness of complex systems, was the title of her latest couture collection, and it looked at the links between the ocean, atmosphere, and the climate. Working with biodesigner Chris Bellamy, van Herpen transformed living bioluminescent algae into a glowing gown that quickly became the most talked-about look of the collection. And it broke through far outside the fashion bubble; even Nature magazine covered the news. Like Roseberry's tell-tale heart, it straddled the line between the living and the mechanical, a contradiction that seemed to be a throughline of the week. (Perhaps being immersed in AI has made us all the more hungry for the real.) While Roseberry and van Herpen stuck to the realm of the living, Glenn Martens decided to explore a different aspect of life: decomposition. His first foray for Maison Margiela marked one of the most anticipated designer debuts in a season packed with them. Against a backdrop of beautiful, deliberate decay, he delivered on every front, with bejeweled full-face masks and a crushed-candy-wrapper confection of a gown. Martens has shown that he knows how to create a spectacle, and with this collection, he outdid himself, drawing plaudits for the way he deftly incorporated so many Margiela signatures. For the Easter egg collectors, detailed show notes even broke down the references in each and every look. Robert Wun titled his collection 'Becoming,' and he looked at the way we transform ourselves every morning when getting dressed. It was a fairly simple starting point, but it was what he did with it that mattered. Few of us will don the giant hats and angular gowns that Wun put on his runway. But his tribute to the theatrical possibilities of style, down to a dress covered with bloody handprints and a fembot-shaped handbag, was a reminder that there's plenty of life left in this age-old medium.
Yahoo
10-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Schiaparelli's Beating Heart Necklace Goes Viral on Social Media After Paris Debut
Schiaparelli's beating heart necklace has turned into a pulse-pounding viral sensation. Created by Daniel Roseberry and unveiled during the fashion house's fall 2025 couture show on Monday, the standout jewelry piece has conquered social media's attention. A post by Roseberry on Instagram has garnered more than 5.7 million views in 24 hours, with his followers praising the creation as 'beautiful' and 'haunting.' On TikTok, fashion enthusiasts are creating multiple videos praising the piece, with one, posted by @houseofhithesh, quickly earning 2 million views. Shaped like a human heart and engineered to actually beat, the Schiaparelli necklace created a dramatic and surreal effect on the runway, where it was showcased by a model wearing a backward red dress. The surrealist piece draws inspiration from Salvador Dalí's legacy, a tradition that started with the brand's founder, Elsa Schiaparelli. More specifically, the necklace references Dalí's 1953 'Royal Heart' art piece. Currently displayed at the Dalí Theatre and Museum in Figueres, Spain, the 'Royal Heart' features mechanical elements making the piece contract and pulsate like a living heart, similar to Roseberry's necklace. In his fall 2025 couture collection, titled 'Back to the Future,' Roseberry also paid homage to Dalí's 'The Eye of Time' brooch from 1949, creating a dress featuring realistic eye motifs. Salvador Dalí was one of Elsa Schiaparelli's closest collaborators and helped her revolutionize the language of fashion with her Surrealist designs. Together, they crafted a compact with an enamel lid that resembled a telephone dial, as well as the 1937 shoe hat, which resembled an upside-down shoe, among other pieces. Roseberry purposefully looked back at Elsa Schiaparelli's inter-war era to create his latest collection. 'There's something about that era that felt mournful and also turbocharged at the same time,' he told WWD backstage after the show. Part of the work created by Dalí and Schiaparelli is showcased in Michèle Gerber Klein's new book, 'Surreal: The Extraordinary Life of Gala Dalí,' which offers a closer look at Gala Dalí, Salvador Dalí's wife, and her influence on his work. View Gallery Launch Gallery: Schiaparelli Fall 2025 Couture Best of WWD 'Project Runway' Winners: Where Are They Now? Superfake Rolexes Are Getting Smarter: How to Spot Counterfeit Timepieces in the Luxury Watch Market Stores Closing in the U.S. in 2025: Joann, Kohl's, JCPenney and More Companies Facing Financial Challenges
Yahoo
08-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Schiaparelli Fall 2025 Couture: Back to the Future
Daniel Roseberry is no stranger to a gear shift. At a time of seismic evolution in the luxury sector, the Schiaparelli designer sent out his most futuristic collection to date — the prelude, he said, to a reset of his creative process amid a flurry of designer changes that promises to reconfigure the competitive landscape next season. It started — as most Schiaparelli couture shows do — with a viral moment. Cardi B, dressed in a black bustier dress with a dramatic raised neckline dripping curtains of fringe, stood in front of the gilded gates of the Petit Palais holding a live black raven. 'I'm not scared of the bird,' she told WWD. 'I control him. We're best friends.' More from WWD Roger Vivier Collaborates With Maison Lesage for Pièce Unique Penélope Cruz Highlights Chanel's Textured Tailoring at the Brand's Fall 2025 Couture Show in Paris Hailee Steinfeld Embraces Bold Cutouts and Dramatic Bows in Sheer Dress for Tamara Ralph Fall 2025 Couture Show in Paris Still, the image was strikingly on-point. Was the Gothic bird a harbinger of doom, or simply a reflection of ambient angst? As it happened, Roseberry's fall collection harked back to another chaotic moment in time: the inter-war period when founder Elsa Schiaparelli revolutionized the language of fashion with her Surrealist designs, often created in collaboration with artist friends like Jean Cocteau and Salvador Dalí. Roseberry pulled black-and-white photographs from the archives and transcribed them into an edgy collection where color was stripped away in favor of metallic surface effects. 'There's something about that era that felt mournful and also turbocharged at the same time,' he said backstage after the show, which he titled 'Back to the Future.' Silver sequins glistened on a black jacket with ramrod-straight shoulders and slim leg-of-mutton sleeves, and exploded across a transparent black tulle reproduction of the 'Apollo of Versailles' cape designed in 1938 for U.S. actress and interior designer Elsie de Wolfe — one of the highlights of the brand's museum retrospective in Paris in 2022. While hourglass constructions stuck to the designer's body-conscious playbook, for every bulging hip pad there was a slinky bias-cut gown sliced away to reveal acres of flesh — none more so than a black satin fishtail gown scooped low in the back to reveal a rhinestone-encrusted thong, evoking Tom Ford's famous Gucci G-string. Roseberry leaned into fetish glamour with a black saddle dominatrix bustier, and molded breasts with erect nipples. They appeared on a pearl gray satin body plate with black harness trim and protruded from the back of a red satin corset-laced gown, accessorized with a mechanically pulsating rhinestone necklace shaped like a human heart. With her sleek bun, glossy black lips and silver spike heels, Anasofia Negrutsa, dressed in a silver biker jacket with matador epaulets, appeared like a cross between sci-fi classics 'Blade Runner' and 'Metropolis.' Roseberry said the collection was inspired by a world, and an industry, on the precipice — both then and now. 'I wanted it to feel like a bit of a farewell. We're gonna be restructuring everything after this,' he said. 'I think if you want to change the result, you have to change the process, and I just want to keep pushing forward.' Having dominated the post-pandemic couture scene with his sculptural creations and mastery of red carpet moments, Roseberry is wise to position himself for next season's great reset, when Jonathan Anderson at Dior, Matthieu Blazy at Chanel and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga will all make their couture debuts. Call it surreal fashion for surreal times. Launch Gallery: Schiaparelli Fall 2025 Couture Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
Yahoo
08-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Schiaparelli Sets Slicked-back Hair Trend at Futuristic Fall 2025 Couture Show
At Schiaparelli, the future is 'the slick-back.' On Monday morning, creative director Daniel Roseberry presented his fall 2025 couture collection in Paris, unearthing a new era for the house rooted in the styles and silhouettes of the mid 20th century, and with that a soft, sleek approach to beauty, one that requires only a bottle of hair gel and a boar bristle brush. More from WWD Ryan Destiny Displays Two Sets of Pink Satin Schiaparelli Pumps at Paris Show - With One Built Into the Bust of Her Dress Cardi B Embraces Sculptural Shoulders and Fringe Pearls for Schiaparelli Fall 2025 Couture Show in Paris Dua Lipa Goes Avant-garde in Keyhole Cutout Dress for Schiaparelli's Fall 2025 Couture Show in Paris The slick-back, a hairstyle revived by TikTok's 'clean girl' trend, led by Bella Hadid and Hailey Bieber, dominated the aesthetic, both on and off the runway. Joséphine Japy, Gessica Kayane, Hunter Schafer, Skye Hankey and Christine Chiu were among a litany of guests boasting the minimal look outside the show before Roseberry's models paraded down the catwalk with the same immovable 'do. While the slick-back style takes on many forms, most at Schiaparelli brushed their hair straight back, leaving no pieces behind. Picture the aftermath of hair dunked underwater. From the front, models and attendees with the style looked as if they'd chopped their long tresses into pixie cuts; zero ends in sight. Hankey's dark locks were pulled into a long ponytail behind her, but the extension was only visible from the side. Meanwhile, Schafer's, Kayane's and Japy's hairs were fastened into buns hidden behind their head. Inside the Petit Palais, the slick-back was met with angsty glamour. The matted-down, constricted hairdo styled by Guido Palau put the models' bold, glossy black lipstick on full display, rendering natural makeup irrelevant. That said, avant-garde artist Pat McGrath kept the models' bases bare, adding only a stroke of highlight on the high points of their cheeks. The post-apocalyptic beauty aesthetic was embodied in Roseberry's surrealist designs, which marked a departure from the modernism he had previously instilled in his interpretations for the house. 'I wanted it to feel like a bit of a farewell. We're gonna be restructuring everything after this,' he told WWD. 'I think if you want to change the result, you have to change the process, and I just want to keep pushing forward.' Elsewhere outside the show, Cardi B spun her slick-back into a side-part bob, tucking her hair behind her ears as she balanced a live raven on the shoulder of her dramatic, sculpture-esque fringe gown courtesy of Schiaparelli's spring 2024 couture collection. 'I'm not scared of the bird,' she told WWD. 'I control him. We're best friends.' View Gallery Launch Gallery: Schiaparelli Fall 2025 Couture Best of WWD 'Project Runway' Winners: Where Are They Now? Superfake Rolexes Are Getting Smarter: How to Spot Counterfeit Timepieces in the Luxury Watch Market Stores Closing in the U.S. in 2025: Joann, Kohl's, JCPenney and More Companies Facing Financial Challenges
Express Tribune
08-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Express Tribune
Daniel Roseberry unveils mechanical heart dress for Schiaparelli Fall 2025
Schiaparelli's Fall 2025 couture show ended with a visceral vision: a crimson satin gown featuring a sculpted anatomical torso and a mechanical, beating heart. Designed by Daniel Roseberry, the dress pays tribute to Salvador Dalí's 1953 'The Royal Heart' brooch famed for its rubies and lifelike throb. In Roseberry's reimagining, the heart is encrusted with scarlet rhinestones and visibly pulsates at the back of the model's neck. Beneath it, a sculpted reverse torso complete with breasts, ribcage, and navel transforms the back of the gown into a surreal anatomical illusion. From the front, the model appears poised and regal; from behind, she becomes a disjointed figure of dual anatomy. This centerpiece marked a tonal climax in a collection defined by stark contrasts. Roseberry's work this season channels Schiaparelli's surrealist DNA with renewed emotional charge. The beating heart dress doesn't merely reference art history it animates it. The result is couture that dares to feel, beating in time with fashion's love for drama, craftsmanship, and conceptual boldness.
