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The Guardian
11-07-2025
- Health
- The Guardian
How TikTok's ‘#morningshed' went viral
The women in the videos begin by liberally applying layers of skincare products. Then come the sheet masks: two under the eyes, one across the whole face, and perhaps another for the neck. A silk bonnet is placed over the hair, a chinstrap wraps the jaw and, as a final touch, a cartoonish, lip-shaped sticker is placed over the mouth, sealing it shut. And that's the simplified version. The Guardian's journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more. Welcome to the tyranny of #morningshed, the viral TikTok trend in which creators apply multiple, increasingly absurd layers of skincare products, masks and accessories before bed, hoping to uncover a flawless complexion when they peel them away the following morning. We aren't talking about the (comparatively simple) serums and essences that made up the once-popular 12-step Korean-inspired routines. Now, it's chinstraps to 'lift' the jawline, hydrogel masks infused with 'ultra-low molecular collagen' to smooth, and adhesive tape applied to the skin to restrict wrinkling. I was going to liken it to Patrick Bateman's morning routine in American Psycho, but having rewatched that scene, his gel cleanser, exfoliating scrub and face mask ritual feels decidedly lower maintenance. According to Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and founder of the Self London clinic, the morning shedding trend is based more on performative productivity than it is skincare science. 'There is growing pressure to curate every aspect of modern life – to present not just a polished appearance, but a polished process,' she says. 'Skincare has not been spared, and these increasingly complex night-time rituals often go beyond what the skin physiologically requires, and instead reflect a broader cultural compulsion toward perfection.' There's something pretty dystopian about the image of these young women rising mummy-like from their beds – where presumably they have to sleep on their backs to ensure their masks, straps and gadgets stay in place – to begin the laborious process of 'shedding' each morning. And the more formidable the routine, the more views the video gets. As TikTok creator Ashley West declared to her 1 million followers: 'The uglier you go to bed, the hotter you wake up' – a depressingly popular 'affirmation' for the trend. And that's before we even get on to the popularity of mouth tape, which involves sealing your mouth shut to promote nose breathing instead – apparently resulting in better sleep and less snoring. Nose breathing can offer benefits, according to Harvard Health Publishing, but the organisation warns against using mouth tape to achieve it, citing 'hampered breathing' and 'significantly reduced' oxygen levels as potential risks. The symbolism is almost too on the nose. It feels as though, in many ways, we're still as beholden to the idea of having to suffer for beauty as we ever were. Not only that, but is all of this effort actually achieving anything? Take face taping, a practice that uses kinesiology tape to restrict muscle movement and prevent lines forming in key areas such as between the eyebrows – referred to as 11 lines – the outer corners of the eyes, and between the nose and mouth. In theory, it sounds faintly plausible, but Mahto explains that the mechanisms of ageing are far more complex. 'Wrinkles are not just about movement, they involve collagen loss, changes in fat distribution … Taping cannot reverse or prevent those processes.' What it can do is irritate the skin, she says, especially with repeated application. 'At best, it offers a fleeting sense of control. At worst, it disrupts the barrier and causes unnecessary inflammation.' Dermatologists are similarly dismissive of single-use collagen gel masks, which appear opaque white on application but are transparent by morning, when the ingredients are said to have absorbed into the skin. 'Not only is there an environmental impact, but there's also no solid evidence that applying collagen topically replenishes the body's own collagen stores,' says consultant dermatologist Dr Cristina Psomadakis, who is the medical director of prescription skincare brand Klira. And don't get her started on the cocktail of different serums influencers layer on underneath the masks – retinoids, acids and other powerful actives applied with an alarmingly liberal hand. 'I think most dermatologists will tell you the biggest problem they see is people overdoing it by following skin trends, or layering on products that should not be combined.' In many ways, it's human nature to be drawn to products and rituals presented as offering an instant transformative effect. The skincare industry isn't booming for nothing. But as always, it's the slightly boring but ultimately reassuring less-is-more approach that actually works. 'The best thing you can do at night is wash off the remains of the day, including your face sunscreen, or makeup that can clog your pores,' says Psomadakis. 'Most dermatologists have a very simple skincare routine consisting of a cleanser, moisturiser, sunscreen, and usually a prescription treatment at night.' The idea of having separate products for day and night is not all marketing spin, according to Mahto. 'At night, the skin becomes more permeable, meaning it absorbs active ingredients more efficiently. Blood flow increases, repair processes accelerate, and water loss peaks,' she says. 'So yes, there is some genuine science behind using particular products in the evening. Anything that increases skin sensitivity, like retinoids or exfoliating acids, is usually better applied at night, when the skin is not being exposed to UV or environmental pollutants.' Sign up to Fashion Statement Style, with substance: what's really trending this week, a roundup of the best fashion journalism and your wardrobe dilemmas solved after newsletter promotion At the end of the day though, all of this is optional. And, ironically, one of the best things you can do for your skin is to stop scrolling TikTok into the early hours and get plenty of sleep (ideally unencumbered by chinstraps and mouth tape). Since we live in an era in which young girls are waking at 4.30am to begin their extensive skincare routines, and poor self-esteem issues in tweens are being linked to the use of social media beauty filters, don't we owe it to ourselves to exercise a bit of restraint on the beauty front? To read the complete version of this newsletter – complete with this week's trending topics in The Measure and your wardrobe dilemmas solved – subscribe to receive Fashion Statement in your inbox every Thursday.
Telegraph
05-07-2025
- Health
- Telegraph
How often should you apply sun cream? Plus 14 crucial questions answered by a skin cancer specialist
There's nothing that conjures up thoughts of ' sun-drenched holidays ' quite like the slightly citrusy, sweet smell of Ambre Solaire. Even when my penny-pinching mum switched to Boots Soltan range in the 1980s, it still seemed like the essence of a Mediterranean summer, bottled. But we've learned a lot more about the dangers of tanning since then – and sadly know now that there's nothing glamorous or sexy about skin cancer. Australia – a country where two out of three are diagnosed with the condition by the age of 70 – paved the way for making us wise up, with their 'slip slop slap' sun cream campaign over 40 years ago. And while rates of skin cancer are unsurprisingly lower here in rainy Britain, we're far from immune. 'There's a troubling rise in skin cancer cases among younger demographics,' says consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto, founder of Self London. She blames indoor tanning as well as products offering very low SPF protection. 'The latter are often marketed to appeal to Gen Z – with bright, influencer-style branding that downplays the real risks of UV exposure.' In clinical practice, Dr Mahto sees 'a number of young patients presenting with early signs of sun damage – something that is entirely preventable with proper education and protection.' What's more, ultraviolet radiation, both UVA and UVB, is present year-round, and its effects are cumulative and insidious – it's something to shield against every day, not just for three months a year. 'As well as melanoma, UV also contributes to fine lines, uneven skin tone and loss of elasticity,' explains aesthetics expert Dr Jo Mennie, who worked in NHS plastic surgery for 12 years. I grilled the two doctors on the best practice for staying safe in 2025. Here are their answers. How much sunscreen is the right amount? If you want genuine protection don't skimp on the application. Half a teaspoon is recommended for faces and necks, and bodies need the six full teaspoons (36 grams, says Dr Mahto). 'But use your common sense, if you're larger, applying too little significantly reduces the sunscreen's efficacy. What's the best way to apply it? Whether you prefer an old-school cream or a spray, both get the thumbs up from the dermatologist. 'Either is effective if used correctly,' confirms Dr Mahto. 'Sprays should be applied liberally and then rubbed in to ensure even coverage. Creams provide a visual cue for coverage but require thorough application. Whatever you choose, the key is ensuring generous and even application.' How often should you apply sun cream? Ideally, apply sunscreen 30 minutes before sun exposure, and reapply every two hours, more frequently if you're sweating or swimming, says Dr Mennie. 'A common mistake I see is patients applying it once and assuming they're protected all day. That's unfortunately not how it works, as studies prove.' Also even if it says 'water resistant' on the bottle, swimming, sweating and towel drying can all remove sunscreen. How can you tell which is the safest sunscreen to use? 'While SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is important, it only measures protection against UVB rays, which are responsible for sunburn. It's just one side of the sun protection equation.' To fully protect your skin, Mahto says it's essential to use sunscreen – a term that refers to products offering broad-spectrum protection against both UVB and UVA rays. 'UVA rays penetrate deeper into the skin and are a major contributor to premature ageing and skin cancer, even when there's no visible sunburn.' When choosing a sunscreen in the UK, look for: SPF 30 or higher to protect against UVB A UVA star rating of at least 4 out of 5, and The 'UVA' logo inside a circle, which indicates the product meets EU standards for UVA protection What SPF factor should I use? Does it depend on skin type? Everyone should use at least SPF 30 with broad-spectrum protection, and if you have very fair skin or conditions like rosacea or melasma, make that SPF 50, says Dr Mennie. 'And even darker skin tones are still vulnerable to UVA-induced aging and pigmentation even if the burn risk is lower.' Which is better – mineral or chemical? Mineral sunscreens (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) sit on the skin and reflect UV rays. 'These are brilliant for sensitive or acne-prone skin and those patients who are pregnant or breast-feeding or experiencing hormonal sensitivity in the skin,' says Mennie. Chemical sunscreens tend to feel lighter and blend more easily, but some can irritate sensitive skin, she adds. As both have pros and cons, 'it's worth experimenting with different brands to find the one that's right for you, as the best one is the one you'll actually wear daily.' Sunscreen makes my skin greasy or spotty – can I just wear a hat and sit in the shade instead? 'Hats and shade are helpful, but they don't block reflected UV rays completely, so sunscreen is still essential,' says Dr Mennie. She insists sunscreen won't necessarily make skin greasy, 'modern formulations are non-comedogenic and lightweight – I recommend gel-based or mineral options for oily or acne-prone skin.' Do the 'once a day' sun creams work? Bad news for the parents who thought these were a godsend. 'Studies have shown that 'once a day' sunscreens may not provide adequate protection for the entire day,' says Dr Mahto, who never recommends them to her patients. 'Sweating, swimming, and towel drying can diminish their effectiveness, so it's advisable to reapply sunscreen regularly, regardless of 'once a day' claims.' Is it worth spending more on sunscreen? Are cheap brands just as good? You don't have to spend a fortune, say the experts. 'The most important thing is that it's broad-spectrum, SPF 30 or higher, and that you apply enough – most people use half the recommended amount,' says Mennie. Some higher-end formulations offer better cosmetic finishes or added skincare benefits, she adds, 'but there are brilliant affordable options on the market.' Price does not always equate to quality in sunscreens. What are the risks of not reapplying sunscreen? By failing to keep topped up, sunscreen becomes less effective, or activities like swimming might remove it leaving you totally unprotected. Increasing the risk of sunburn, DNA damage, and skin cancer. Recent data confirms . Will skipping sunscreen make me look older? This makes premature ageing likely, says Dr Mennie. 'I've absolutely seen patients age faster from not bothering with protection. UV exposure accelerates collagen breakdown and pigmentation, so not reapplying allows UV damage to accumulate even after just a couple of hours. 'In the clinic, if I'm seeing younger patients with photodamage, fine lines, uneven tone, far earlier than I'd expect, you can be sure that they are skipping their sunscreen during overcast months or when they're 'just popping out'.' One study found up to 80–90 per cent of visible facial aging is due to UV exposure. 'I've had patients in their 30s with premature creasing around the eyes and forehead purely from incidental sun exposure,' adds Mennie. Is SPF in makeup or moisturisers enough? In short, no.'The SPF in makeup or moisturiser is tested in labs at 2mg/cm² which is far more product than most of us apply. You'd need several layers to achieve the stated protection. Think of these as top-up, not your primary defence,' advises Mennie. 'I wouldn't leave the house without actual sunscreen myself, it's my number one skincare that's non-negotiable.' Is there any such thing as a safe tan? Unfortunately, insists Mahto, there is no such thing as a truly 'safe' tan. 'Tanning is your skin's response to injury – when exposed to UV radiation, your skin produces more melanin in an attempt to protect deeper layers from damage. So even a light tan or subtle 'glow' is a sign that DNA damage has already occurred. 'Over time, this damage accumulates, increasing the risk of premature ageing, pigmentation issues and skin cancers including melanoma. Also, it's a common misconception that a gradual tan is somehow healthier. Unfortunately, any intentional tanning, whether that's from the sun or tanning beds, comes with risks.' Don't do it. What sunscreen do the experts personally use? Dr Mennie: 'I wear a broad-spectrum SPF 50 every single day rain or shine, winter or summer. I use Dr David Jack's All Day Long SPF 50 as my chemical sunscreen option, and HydroPeptide's Solar Defence non-tinted SPF 50 as my mineral option depending on how my skin feels.' Dr Mahto: 'I use a separate facial sunscreen as body sunscreens are often too heavy for my acne-prone skin, and I really like the Ultra Violette range for my face. For body, I don't spend a lot of money, I'll buy what's on offer (so long as it meets the criteria mentioned earlier). 'I don't leave the house without applying it, but if I know I'll be indoors all day (and not sitting near a window for hours) then I'll skip it – this isn't very often though!' Dr Anjali Mahto is a consultant dermatologist of over 20 years, 12 of which were in the NHS. She's also the Founder of Self London. Dr Jo Mennie has over 11 years of experience working as a doctor in the NHS and is a plastic surgeon with a special interest in women's health now working in the private sector.
The Independent
04-04-2025
- Health
- The Independent
Best shower filters to protect hair from hard water
About 60 per cent of the UK is classed as having hard water, meaning high amounts of calcium carbonate are found in pipes, showers and other water sources. Alongside limescale in your kettle, reduced water pressure and an increased likelihood of blocked drains, hard water also has an impact on your hair. Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and founder of Self London, explains: 'Hard water contains high levels of dissolved minerals, primarily calcium and magnesium, and these minerals can have a significant impact on both skin and hair health. For hair, hard water can leave a mineral deposit on the strands, making it feel rough, dry, and more prone to breakage. 'Those who colour their hair may notice their colour fades more quickly due to mineral build-up preventing proper pigment absorption. Additionally, hard water can contribute to scalp irritation and dandruff in some individuals.' A growing number of brands have begun focusing on treating hair damage due to hard water by creating dedicated shampoos and treatments, such as Hello Klean, Act+Acre and L'Oréal Professionnel. Dr Mahto recommends opting for clarifying shampoos, which can help break down residue, and following up with a deeply hydrating conditioner or hair mask containing glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or shea butter to help replenish lost moisture. 'Leave-in conditioners and serums formulated with silicones (such as dimethicone) can create a protective barrier to minimise further mineral build-up,' says Dr Mahto. However, some brands have gone one step further and created showerhead filters, specifically designed to combat hard-water damage, improve water pressure and help you use less water. But how effective are they? Keep scrolling for our full review and verdict. How I tested I've spent the past few months putting some of the leading showerhead filter brands to the test. I examined each showerhead filter on how easy it was to install, any immediate differences I noticed in water pressure, the filtration system on offer, the aesthetic factor (let's be honest, no one wants an ugly showerhead on show), price and long-term results. Why you can trust IndyBest reviews Louise Whitbread is a beauty editor and seasoned product tester. She's used to casting a critical eye over brands' claims and thoroughly tests each product included in her reviews to bring you her pick of the ones that really are worth your money. The best showerhead filters for 2025 are:
