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Business of Fashion
4 days ago
- Entertainment
- Business of Fashion
The Rise of ‘Ugly-Cute' Labubu Dolls, in Four Charts
No one saw 2025's hottest accessory coming. Labubu dolls, cartoonish plush toys designed ten years ago by Hong Kong-born artist Kasing Lung as part of his Nordic folklore-inspired character series 'The Monsters' and now distributed by Chinese toy maker Pop Mart, have become a viral sensation this summer. The figures, which typically cost around $20, rose to prominence after K-pop star Lisa began sporting them as bag charms last year. They've since sparked wraparound queues at malls around the world and have been spotted hanging off the handbags of celebrities including Rihanna, Dua Lipa, Central Cee and Marc Jacobs. Gen-Z and Gen Alpha customers have repeatedly sold them out; earlier this summer on TikTok Shop, a single, eight-hour live stream generated over $1.5 million in Labubu sales. With their flushed cheeks, mischievous eyes, wide grins exposing nine serrated teeth, pointed bunny ears and rotund, fuzzy bodies, Labubu dolls' popularity is baffling to many. But their 'ugly-cute' looks are precisely why they're so beloved among Gen-Z. 'Consumers, driven by the dual desire for emotional comfort and expressive individuality during challenging times, find resonance in Labubus' unique blend of innocence, irreverence, and charm,' wrote Michael Appler, vice president of marketing at Trendalytics, in an email. Their nostalgic and playful aesthetic reflects Gen-Z's disillusionment with the stark realities of adulthood during uncertain economic times. The dolls' rise to prominence is also reflective of the 'lipstick index' at work: As the cost of living soars and consumer sentiment dims, shoppers are more likely to pay for small, inexpensive 'luxuries' that double as unique status symbols. While cuteness has been trending in fashion for months now, with everything from polka dots to fruit jewellery gaining popularity, Labubus in particular have stood out. Though overall viral microtrends have slowed, the Labubu is the most visible success in a series of trending 'blind box' items — or small collectibles whose contents are sealed and unknown to the buyer at the time of purchase — with limited production that includes Smiski toys (green, glow-in-the-dark figures) and Sonny Angels (plastic, semi-nude babies collected by Bella Hadid and Victoria Beckham). The dopamine rush of these limited-edition mystery boxes also gamifies the purchasing experience, and the toys serve as an 'if-you-know-you-know' marker for fellow collectors. The collectibles' ascent has been astronomical, with the Chinese government even commencing efforts to crack down on counterfeit Labubu dolls, or 'Lafufus,' earlier this year. But despite recent bullish growth, Pop Mart's shareholders fear the collectibles will soon begin to lose traction, and that the company's success can't be sustained. Below, a look at Labubu dolls' trajectory in four charts. Trendalytics analysis found that year-on-year Google searches for Labubu soared by 9,800 percent in June. Pop Mart is also benefiting from continuing consumer interest in bag charms, which saw searches more than double this summer since 2024, while average weekly posts related to bag charms on TikTok have skyrocketed over twentyfold. In the first half of 2025, mentions of Labubu alongside Hermès generated almost $30 million in media impact value — a staggering 4 percent of total conversations around Hermès — as bag charms tapped into a desire for greater personalisation. '[The] broader cultural move toward individuality is a perfect backdrop for the rise of bag charms and, in turn, Labubu,' wrote StockX senior director of marketplace Drew Haines in an email. Rare Labubu dolls have been sold for vast premiums at auctions and on resale platforms. Since October, Pop Mart has been the number-one bestselling collectibles brand on StockX, with sales up 748 percent thus far in 2025. The toy maker, which had seen fewer than 100 trades in 2023, generated tens of thousands of sales on StockX last year. Though Pop Mart said it expects a profit jump of 350 percent in the first half of 2025, investors appear to have taken a more cautious outlook on the toy maker, likely because blind box trends tend to be volatile and lack longevity. As Labubu dolls rise in popularity, they can no longer be a secret of the 'in group' or an emblem of personal identity. If early pullback is any indication, Labubu mania may have already hit its peak.
Business of Fashion
22-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Business of Fashion
Sleepwear Is Having Its Athleisure Moment
For Paige DeSorbo, bedtime knows no bounds. Over seven seasons on the Bravo reality show 'Summer House,' she earned a reputation for spending leisurely mornings, afternoons and evenings in bed, chatting with friends, scrolling on her phone or recapping the previous night's debauchery with her housemates — most of that time in matching pyjama sets. 'My whole brand was not wanting to get out of bed,' she told The Business of Fashion. So it's no surprise that DeSorbo's first major venture post-show (she announced her departure earlier this year), would be Daphne, a sleepwear label meant to offer styles 'more luxe than just like a traditional $20 pyjama set.' The idea, she said, is that they could be styled in the same way she wore pyjamas — over a swimsuit to the beach, or on a morning coffee run. ADVERTISEMENT 'I wanted it to be something that if you're on vacation and you didn't want to change into another outfit, that this could also work for outside,' she said. It's a formula more and more brands are taking to sleepwear, which is going through something of an athleisure-style reinvention. Brands like Lake, Eberjey, Sleepy Jones and Petite Plume have been selling an upscale take on pyjamas since the 2010s, but today's young shoppers are taking it a step farther, buying pyjama-inspired styles like boxer shorts and pointelle tank tops beyond their bedrooms into their everyday lives. Responding to this trend, more sleepwear brands are offering styles that straddle the line between function and fashion — comfortable enough for bed, but also cute enough to wear to brunch the next morning. Plus, more traditional ready-to-wear brands are investing in the space: Reformation launched its first pyjama line this spring, while Hill House Home, famous for its 'nap dresses,' rolled out a new line of nightgowns in June. Even the luxury hotel chain Four Seasons debuted its first pyjama collection late last year, with the intent of courting more Millennial consumers. 'Pyjamas aren't just for bed anymore. They're styled for the airport, the beach, brunch,' said Eberjey founder Mariela Rovito. 'PJs all day is no longer lazy, it's aspirational.' This shift comes as pyjamas have also levelled up in terms of importance in a person's public wardrobe. As content creators broadcast their 'morning sheds' (undoing all the self-care steps they undertook the night before, from mouth tape to face masks), they're in their pyjamas. Social media stars like Brigette Pheloung and Alix Earle are often wearing them in their 'get ready with me' or 'day in the life' videos. Since 2024, the weekly average number of sleepwear-centric videos on TikTok has jumped 314 percent, while average views have leapt 817 percent, according to Trendalytics. 'The more that content creators are showing their lives and routines, the more people are going to want to mimic that, even if they don't realise it,' said Robyn DeMonte, who breaks down brand marketing strategies on TikTok under the moniker GirlBossTown. These shifts represent a major opportunity for both sleepwear-first brands and apparel brands at large. For the former, it's a chance to behave more like a fashion brand, tapping the power of brand marketing and building a customer base that's loyal to their product. And for the latter, it's a relatively simple category expansion, because it's 'quite similar to what [you] already do,' said Reformation CEO Hali Borenstein. Both see plenty of room for the space to grow. And just as brands like Lululemon and then later Alo and Vuori were able to build big businesses by convincing even the most casual gym-goers to embrace athleisure, and sleepwear brands believe there's similar potential in their category. After all, not everyone works out — but everybody sleeps. 'The market is still really ripe,' said Rovito. 'That's still a lot of people to convert from T-shirts and boxers.' ADVERTISEMENT From Bed to Boardroom to Beach In some ways, sleepwear's rise is something of a pushback on hustle culture. 'Sleep has become the ultimate status symbol now,' said Fanny Quehe, CMO of sleepwear label Petite Plume. 'It's no longer something you want to sacrifice at the service of productivity.' Instead, it's become something people are willing to invest in in order to improve. On TikTok, the viral concept of 'bed rotting' is seen as self-care, not a sign of laziness. In these highly-curated bedtime rituals, drab sleepwear stands out, and not for the right reasons. 'It's the ultimate self care, treat yourself moment, to have something that's so intimate and private be so extra,' said Hill House Home founder Nell Diamond, adding that in its latest nightgown drop, when the styles 'more detailed, more intricate, the better they sold.' The general goal for most is, as Borenstein put it, to make something 'between comfy cozy pyjamas and hyper sexy lingerie.' Daphne, for example, was launched with simple products that could be worn both ways: a sleep top in a boxy cropped cut with bows on the side, a pointelle mini-dress that could easily be worn during the summer. Though some customers love cutesy prints, DeSorbo said she wanted to focus on more muted colours, 'very girly, yet still sophisticated.' When Reformation launched its debut pyjama line this spring, it included classic button-down sets, but also patterned dresses and matching tank-and-short sets that would pair with sandals and sunglasses. At Eberjey, Rovito said they gut check its designs with what it calls the 'CVS test,' evaluating if their designs would function both inside the home and on an errand run or at school drop-off. Creating multi-functional styles also helps these brands in positioning their pyjamas as a luxury worth splurging on. The thought is that 'maybe the price point is a little bit higher, but you're also getting a full out-of-the-house look and an in-home outfit,' said DeSorbo. Daphne's products run from $58 for a tank top to $85 for a mini dress and long boxer shorts. As with athleisure, paying extra attention to fabrication also helps in that mission. Fabrics like silks can help up the luxury factor, while linen, which Eberjey introduced this year, can be more easily repurposed as summer daytime wear. ADVERTISEMENT 'When we get a new fabric, it opens up a whole new door of possibility and style,' said Rovito. Building Brand Equity With more fashionable standards in pyjamas, the savviest brands in the category are elevating how they market themselves. 'It's about creating an aspirational brand behind a traditionally boring product,' said Rose Colcord, founder of London-based sleep and intimates label CouCou Intimates. Part of this comes in how they photograph their product. For its e-commerce photos, Hill House shoots its nightgowns on models wearing shoes and without, in order to convey that they can be worn in the house and outside of it, Diamond said. For its brand imagery, Lake has models wearing pyjamas while they drive a boat or ride a bike. Selling a dream, much in the way fashion brands do, has become a major tactic for distinguishing themselves from players like Victoria's Secret and which sell sleepwear but don't specialise in it, according to Cassandra Cannon, founder of Lake. 'Over the years, we have shied away from calling ourselves a fashion brand, but that is what we are,' she said. 'So that's one of the primary ways that we bring customers in … to connect them to the lifestyle that we're selling.' But it's also about building up brand equity so people feel more willing to pay a premium for their product. Both Lake and Eberjey have moved away from advertising strategies primarily focused around social media ads towards larger brand-building efforts such as out-of-home ads and larger-scale campaigns. Eberjey, for instance, began running outdoor advertising after 25 years in business, because it's 'become a lot more important to just keep showing up where our customer is,' said Rovito. Events and collaborations play a larger role, too, in introducing newness that encourages consumers to keep coming back. Earlier this summer Eberjey celebrated its collaboration with tequila company Casa Del Sol attended by influencers like Coco Schiffer and model Rocky Barnes, pairing pyjama tops with jeans or wearing nightgowns with sandals. Petite Plume hosted a pyjama party with Yse Beauty founder Molly Sims last December, where they dressed attendees in sleek silk sets and made a custom sequin-covered set for Sims. For Lake, building up its retail footprint has also played a role in bringing people into its brand universe. It currently operates three stores, including a recently opened location in Southampton, New York, and one to come in Charlotte in August, all done in the same bright, airy whites and pastels it's known for with its pyjamas. As these brands see it, the sleepwear opportunity is only just beginning. Rovito sees room in particular to expand with the men's pyjamas market. They also want to take the trust they've built and apply it to other categories. DeSorbo is open to launching daywear in the future; Lake is investing in its own everyday pieces including kaftans and sweaters. The lines, they all say, will continue to blur as shoppers continue to prioritise comfort above all else. 'Culture influences fashion, and fashion influences culture,' said DeSorbo. 'And people are tired.'
Sydney Morning Herald
02-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Sydney Morning Herald
From mob wife to MAGA woman: TikTok trends are losing steam
As the latest deadline for TikTok to be sold or banned in the US approaches, we'll find out next month whether the app will continue to be a fixture on American phones or not. A decline in fashion fads conceived by TikTok creators (think 'cowboy core', 'office siren' and ' coastal grandma ') means consumers and retailers won't be as affected as they would have been a year or so ago, when such viral 'aesthetics' peaked on the video-sharing platform. But brands have their work cut out in responding to what's taken over since: lifestyle trends amplifying political, social and economic influences. After all, it's much harder to monetise 'recession core', the 'MAGA woman' look and 'underconsumption'. Super-speedy TikTok trends are best exemplified by the viral 'mob wife' look from early last year, characterised by big fur coats and equally voluminous hair. Retailers responded by stocking more animal print and bold lipstick. This was one of many fleeting fashions that emerged in the wake of the pandemic when TikTok really took off, and dressing for short videos replaced IRL outfits. It's not easy keeping up with so many flash-in-the-pan fads, from 'tomato girl' to 'pilates princess', particularly as the economy darkens. Fatigue has set in and consumers are now prioritising their personal style over every new 'core' and trend. That's trickier for brands to be part of but they are tapping in – for example, through bag charms, which fashion and luxury has embraced, and Labubu dolls, playing into the need to express one's identity through customisation. TikTok and Pinterest, the photo-pinning app, are also making valiant attempts to continue to shape fashion. 'Castlecore' and 'medievalcore' are among the few aesthetics to break through recently, though they reflect the broader 'pop girl' phenomenon in culture as they're inspired by singer Chappell Roan's adoption of chain-mail and headwear. (They also demonstrate, as Kayla Marci, who writes the Haute Garbage Substack, told me, that Gen Z's nostalgia has cycled through recent decades and is reaching ever further back.) We haven't really had a fashion narrative that's broken into the mainstream since mob wife. Yet of the more than 100 micro-trends tracked by market-intelligence company Trendalytics across social media, online search and e-commerce, 60 per cent are declining while only 20 per cent are gaining traction. Even though US users still spend more time per day on TikTok than Instagram, Facebook and Snapchat, according to Sensor Tower, the moment when the platform became the epicentre of trend forecasting, with users naming new aesthetics at a frenetic pace, has passed. We haven't really had a fashion narrative that's broken into the mainstream since mob wife.
The Age
02-06-2025
- Entertainment
- The Age
From mob wife to MAGA woman: TikTok trends are losing steam
As the latest deadline for TikTok to be sold or banned in the US approaches, we'll find out next month whether the app will continue to be a fixture on American phones or not. A decline in fashion fads conceived by TikTok creators (think 'cowboy core', 'office siren' and ' coastal grandma ') means consumers and retailers won't be as affected as they would have been a year or so ago, when such viral 'aesthetics' peaked on the video-sharing platform. But brands have their work cut out in responding to what's taken over since: lifestyle trends amplifying political, social and economic influences. After all, it's much harder to monetise 'recession core', the 'MAGA woman' look and 'underconsumption'. Super-speedy TikTok trends are best exemplified by the viral 'mob wife' look from early last year, characterised by big fur coats and equally voluminous hair. Retailers responded by stocking more animal print and bold lipstick. This was one of many fleeting fashions that emerged in the wake of the pandemic when TikTok really took off, and dressing for short videos replaced IRL outfits. It's not easy keeping up with so many flash-in-the-pan fads, from 'tomato girl' to 'pilates princess', particularly as the economy darkens. Fatigue has set in and consumers are now prioritising their personal style over every new 'core' and trend. That's trickier for brands to be part of but they are tapping in – for example, through bag charms, which fashion and luxury has embraced, and Labubu dolls, playing into the need to express one's identity through customisation. TikTok and Pinterest, the photo-pinning app, are also making valiant attempts to continue to shape fashion. 'Castlecore' and 'medievalcore' are among the few aesthetics to break through recently, though they reflect the broader 'pop girl' phenomenon in culture as they're inspired by singer Chappell Roan's adoption of chain-mail and headwear. (They also demonstrate, as Kayla Marci, who writes the Haute Garbage Substack, told me, that Gen Z's nostalgia has cycled through recent decades and is reaching ever further back.) We haven't really had a fashion narrative that's broken into the mainstream since mob wife. Yet of the more than 100 micro-trends tracked by market-intelligence company Trendalytics across social media, online search and e-commerce, 60 per cent are declining while only 20 per cent are gaining traction. Even though US users still spend more time per day on TikTok than Instagram, Facebook and Snapchat, according to Sensor Tower, the moment when the platform became the epicentre of trend forecasting, with users naming new aesthetics at a frenetic pace, has passed. We haven't really had a fashion narrative that's broken into the mainstream since mob wife.
Fashion Network
01-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
From mob wife to MAGA woman: TikTok trends are losing steam
It's not easy keeping up with so many flash-in-the-pan fads, from 'tomato girl' to 'pilates princess,' particularly as the economy darkens. Fatigue has set in, and consumers are now prioritizing their personal style over every new 'core' and trend. That's trickier for brands to be part of, but they are tapping in — for example, through bag charms, which fashion and luxury has embraced, and Labubu dolls, playing into the need to express one's identity through customization. TikTok and Pinterest, the photo-pinning app, are also making valiant attempts to continue to shape fashion. 'Castlecore' and 'Medievalcore' are among the few aesthetics to break through recently, though they reflect the broader 'pop girl' phenomenon in culture, as they're inspired by singer Chappell Roan's adoption of chain mail and headwear. (They also demonstrate, as Kayla Marci, who writes the Haute Garbage Substack, told me, that Gen Z's nostalgia has cycled through recent decades and is reaching ever further back.) Yet of the more than 100 micro-trends tracked by market-intelligence company Trendalytics across social media, online search and e-commerce, 60% are declining while only 20% are gaining traction. Even though US users still spend more time per day on TikTok than Instagram, Facebook and Snapchat, according to Sensor Tower, the moment when the platform became the epicenter of trend forecasting, with users naming new aesthetics at a frenetic pace, has passed. We haven't really had a fashion narrative that's broken into the mainstream since Mob Wife. There is one notable exception: the 'recession core' trend, which includes making your own beauty products and finding hair styles that need little maintenance. TikTok posts featuring 'recession core' are increasing by over 3,000% week on week, and average views of tagged videos are up about 1,000% week on week, according to Trendalytics. This reflects the current obsession across society and finance with spotting recession indicators, from sardine-themed fashion (because the fish are cheap and filling) to longer hemlines (said to fall in tough times). There are few, if any, actual products referencing the trend, underlining the challenges for brands of such online conversations coalescing around broader cultural, economic and political themes. These are far more difficult for retailers to navigate than having the right width of jean leg or latest fruit print dress. Take Boom Boom, at the other extreme from 'recession core,' which emphasizes '80s-inspired excess, perhaps reflecting the Trump era's embrace of money and power. The catwalks for fall featured fur, big shoulders, and at Prada SpA's MiuMiu even exaggerated bras. While the minimalism of the past couple of years has been good for some luxury houses, such as Brunello Cucinelli SpA, Prada and LVMH 's Loro Piana, for others, such as Kering SA's Gucci, it has been a disaster. Many companies would love to see a return to logos and more ostentatious dressing. But whether they would fully embrace conspicuous consumption — against the current backdrop of tariff-driven anxiety — is another matter. Even more daunting are politically driven movements, beginning with Trad Wife, which espoused traditionally female roles, and morphing into the more overt MAGA Woman look, characterized by sheath dresses, high heels, flowing tresses and plumped-up lips. Creator Suzanne Lambert took this even further, parodying so-called 'Republican Beauty,' for too pale concealer and clumpy mascara, racking up 6.4 million TikTok views in the process. Few brands have weighed in, despite the potential to sell products. The Mar-a-Lago Face has probably peaked, but given the fracturing of society, it may not be the last divisive trend to emerge. That presents a dilemma for companies. Yet Cassandra Napoli, head of marketing and events at trend forecaster WGSN, told me that consumers are increasingly prioritizing 'ethics over aesthetics,' voting with their wallets and spending their time with businesses that reflect their values. 'Not getting political will not be an option,' she said, even if it was a double-edged sword. Perhaps the narrative that's most concerning for fashion and beauty companies is that of buying less, or nothing at all. Underconsumption has been gaining ground for the past year or so, showcasing a simpler life — streamlining beauty regimes and wearing vintage clothes, for example, are in vogue right now. Brands can respond by focusing on fewer product lines, but more meaningful 'hero' items or embracing vintage in their selections. That's a hard pill to swallow if you believe the whole raison d'etre of the consumer economy is to sell. Making sure stores had enough leopard print and chunky gold jewelry to meet Mob Wife's gaudy tastes feels almost quaint now.
