The Rise of ‘Ugly-Cute' Labubu Dolls, in Four Charts
Labubu dolls, cartoonish plush toys designed ten years ago by Hong Kong-born artist Kasing Lung as part of his Nordic folklore-inspired character series 'The Monsters' and now distributed by Chinese toy maker Pop Mart, have become a viral sensation this summer.
The figures, which typically cost around $20, rose to prominence after K-pop star Lisa began sporting them as bag charms last year. They've since sparked wraparound queues at malls around the world and have been spotted hanging off the handbags of celebrities including Rihanna, Dua Lipa, Central Cee and Marc Jacobs. Gen-Z and Gen Alpha customers have repeatedly sold them out; earlier this summer on TikTok Shop, a single, eight-hour live stream generated over $1.5 million in Labubu sales.
With their flushed cheeks, mischievous eyes, wide grins exposing nine serrated teeth, pointed bunny ears and rotund, fuzzy bodies, Labubu dolls' popularity is baffling to many. But their 'ugly-cute' looks are precisely why they're so beloved among Gen-Z.
'Consumers, driven by the dual desire for emotional comfort and expressive individuality during challenging times, find resonance in Labubus' unique blend of innocence, irreverence, and charm,' wrote Michael Appler, vice president of marketing at Trendalytics, in an email.
Their nostalgic and playful aesthetic reflects Gen-Z's disillusionment with the stark realities of adulthood during uncertain economic times. The dolls' rise to prominence is also reflective of the 'lipstick index' at work: As the cost of living soars and consumer sentiment dims, shoppers are more likely to pay for small, inexpensive 'luxuries' that double as unique status symbols.
While cuteness has been trending in fashion for months now, with everything from polka dots to fruit jewellery gaining popularity, Labubus in particular have stood out. Though overall viral microtrends have slowed, the Labubu is the most visible success in a series of trending 'blind box' items — or small collectibles whose contents are sealed and unknown to the buyer at the time of purchase — with limited production that includes Smiski toys (green, glow-in-the-dark figures) and Sonny Angels (plastic, semi-nude babies collected by Bella Hadid and Victoria Beckham). The dopamine rush of these limited-edition mystery boxes also gamifies the purchasing experience, and the toys serve as an 'if-you-know-you-know' marker for fellow collectors.
The collectibles' ascent has been astronomical, with the Chinese government even commencing efforts to crack down on counterfeit Labubu dolls, or 'Lafufus,' earlier this year. But despite recent bullish growth, Pop Mart's shareholders fear the collectibles will soon begin to lose traction, and that the company's success can't be sustained.
Below, a look at Labubu dolls' trajectory in four charts.
Trendalytics analysis found that year-on-year Google searches for Labubu soared by 9,800 percent in June. Pop Mart is also benefiting from continuing consumer interest in bag charms, which saw searches more than double this summer since 2024, while average weekly posts related to bag charms on TikTok have skyrocketed over twentyfold.
In the first half of 2025, mentions of Labubu alongside Hermès generated almost $30 million in media impact value — a staggering 4 percent of total conversations around Hermès — as bag charms tapped into a desire for greater personalisation.
'[The] broader cultural move toward individuality is a perfect backdrop for the rise of bag charms and, in turn, Labubu,' wrote StockX senior director of marketplace Drew Haines in an email.
Rare Labubu dolls have been sold for vast premiums at auctions and on resale platforms. Since October, Pop Mart has been the number-one bestselling collectibles brand on StockX, with sales up 748 percent thus far in 2025. The toy maker, which had seen fewer than 100 trades in 2023, generated tens of thousands of sales on StockX last year.
Though Pop Mart said it expects a profit jump of 350 percent in the first half of 2025, investors appear to have taken a more cautious outlook on the toy maker, likely because blind box trends tend to be volatile and lack longevity. As Labubu dolls rise in popularity, they can no longer be a secret of the 'in group' or an emblem of personal identity. If early pullback is any indication, Labubu mania may have already hit its peak.
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Boston Globe
14 minutes ago
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A professor's hunt for the rarest Chinese typewriter
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USA Today
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Which Cariuma sneaker is right for you? Find your perfect pair with this guide
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Time Business News
3 hours ago
- Time Business News
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The global designer toy brand unveils an emotionally rich, one-season series featuring a baby astronaut exploring the inner cosmos of the mind. Building on the global success of its iconic character LABUBU, Pop Mart now unveils NELO, a new original IP that takes collectors on an introspective journey through space, memory, and dreams. A one-season-only release, NELO is not just a character—he is a symbol of wonder, solitude, and the emotional gravity of exploration. NELO is a baby astronaut born from the final frontier of consciousness. According to Pop Mart lore, NELO drifts through the dreamscape inside a starlit cradle-pod, collecting emotional fragments from human minds during deep sleep. Part explorer, part guardian, NELO travels where memories dissolve and imagination expands—within the vast, untethered cosmos of the subconscious. The name 'NELO' suggests softness and space—a lullaby echoing in zero gravity. This journey is both literal and metaphorical: NELO isn't just traversing galaxies, but the hidden universes within ourselves. The NELO series includes 12 standard figures and one secret edition, each representing a psychological or emotional aspect discovered during NELO's dream-bound travels. Highlights include: Liora – The Dream Weaver A celestial caretaker who weaves emotional frequencies into constellations that guide NELO's voyage. A celestial caretaker who weaves emotional frequencies into constellations that guide NELO's voyage. Tenebris – The Shadow Collector A quiet presence who absorbs forgotten fears to balance the dreamspace NELO explores. A quiet presence who absorbs forgotten fears to balance the dreamspace NELO explores. Aero – The Thought Drifter An ephemeral companion that orbits NELO, representing fleeting bursts of inspiration. The figures are sculpted with weightless posture, flowing lines, and cosmic elements—stars, moons, space helmets, and translucent surfaces that mimic stardust and oxygen bubbles. NELO introduces a visual and emotional language new to the Pop Mart universe. The design direction pairs space-age motifs with vulnerability: soft pastel suits, glowing helmets, and floating poses that evoke a feeling of serene solitude. 'We wanted NELO to embody the purity and emotional openness of childhood—set against the vastness of space,' says Jian Xu, Creative Director at Pop Mart. 'He's a symbol of how even the smallest among us can navigate infinite worlds.' As a strictly one-season series, NELO will be available in limited quantities through Pop Mart's global retail stores, website, and select vending locations. Once sold out, it will not return—preserving the sense of rarity and finality that defines the story. A Collector's Edition Box Set will also be released, featuring: All 12 NELO figures A cloth-bound illustrated dreamflight log Exclusive foil-stamped packaging and artist concept cards Each box set invites collectors to hold a complete piece of the story—an artifact of a journey that won't be repeated. Following the whimsical success of LABUBU, NELO signals Pop Mart's evolution toward deeper, narrative-first IPs. With NELO, the brand invites collectors to pause, reflect, and emotionally connect—with a baby astronaut who floats between stars and souls. NELO is not just a collectible. He's a moment of stillness in motion. A dream you can hold—once. For more information, release updates, and behind-the-scenes content, visit or follow @PopMartGlobal on Instagram, TikTok, and Weibo. TIME BUSINESS NEWS
