Latest news with #VikramLahoria
India Today
04-07-2025
- Health
- India Today
Damaged skin barrier? Here's what it means and how to fix it right
The skin barrier, scientifically referred to as the stratum corneum, is the outermost layer of the skin—and arguably its most vital. Acting as a biological shield, it regulates hydration, defends against environmental aggressors, and maintains overall skin Today spoke with Dr Vikram Lahoria, Consultant Dermatologist and Medical Advisor at Ceuticoz, to understand why skin barrier health has become a top skincare priority—and how to protect Vikram Lahoria describes it as a 'brick-and-mortar' model, where corneocytes (the 'bricks') are held together by lipids like ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids (the 'mortar'). This intelligent barrier not only influences how our skin looks—smooth, radiant, or dull—but also how it functions on an immune level. When healthy, the barrier keeps moisture in and irritants out. When compromised, it can cause a cascade of problems, from inflammation to TO KNOW IF YOUR SKIN BARRIER IS DAMAGEDSkin barrier dysfunction isn't always obvious at first—but your skin usually tries to send signals. These include:Heightened sensitivity or stinging from skincareRedness, irritation, or inflammationDry, flaky patches or a rough, sandpaper-like textureBreakouts, congestion, or oil imbalanceTightness and discomfort, especially after washing'When the skin barrier weakens,' explains Dr Lahoria, 'it becomes more reactive and vulnerable to allergens, microbes, and environmental stressors.'EVERYDAY HABITS THAT DAMAGE YOUR BARRIERYou don't have to be using strong actives to harm your skin. Many people unknowingly damage their barrier through common habits:Over-cleansing or using foaming, high-pH face washesScrubbing or exfoliating too frequently with acids or scrubsTaking hot showers or long bathsSkipping moisturiser after cleansingUsing multiple actives (retinoids, AHAs, vitamin C) without buffer supportDr Lahoria recommends adopting a gentler, more supportive routine: 'Use mild cleansers, reduce exfoliation, and always follow with hydrating and restorative products.'HOW INDIAN ENVIRONMENTS CHALLENGE THE SKIN BARRIERIndia's climate diversity poses a unique challenge for skin. Drastic humidity shifts, high UV exposure, and urban pollution can all degrade barrier introduces oxidative stress, damaging lipids and proteinsUV rays weaken collagen and increase transepidermal water loss (TEWL)Dry winters or heavy AC use strip skin of natural oilsHigh humidity fosters fungal or bacterial imbalances'Environmental stressors can trigger chronic inflammation and barrier compromise,' notes Dr Lahoria. 'Adapting your skincare seasonally is crucial.'SKIN CONDITIONS TIED TO A WEAKENED BARRIERA disrupted skin barrier is not just a cosmetic issue—it often underlies chronic skin conditions:Acne: Dehydrated skin can overproduce oil, leading to clogged poresRosacea: Sensitized skin reacts more strongly to heat, light, and irritantsadvertisementEczema: Lacks essential lipids, making it more reactive to allergens'Barrier dysfunction is often the root of flare-ups in these conditions,' says Dr. Lahoria. 'Restoring it improves treatment tolerance and overall skin behaviour.'TOP INGREDIENTS THAT REPAIR AND STRENGTHEN THE SKIN BARRIERAccording to Dr. Lahoria, certain ingredients are dermatologically proven to support skin structure and function:Ceramides: These lipids replenish the mortar that holds skin cells togetherNiacinamide: Enhances ceramide production and calms inflammationHyaluronic acid: Attracts water, improves hydration, and supports healing'These ingredients don't just hydrate,' he says. 'They restore the very architecture of healthy skin.'HOW TO BUILD A BARRIER-FIRST SKINCARE ROUTINEA skin-barrier-focused routine is not just for sensitive skin—it's for everyone. Dr Lahoria recommends a simplified, balanced approach:Use a pH-balanced, sulfate-free cleanserApply a hydrating mist or essence after cleansingUse a repair serum with peptides, niacinamide, or panthenolSeal in moisture with a lipid-rich moisturiserApply broad-spectrum SPF every morningMinimise harsh activities—or cycle them carefullyStay consistent and give skin time to heal'Barrier repair isn't a one-day fix,' he explains. 'But the results are worth the patience.'DO BARRIER CREAMS WORK? HERE'S WHAT MAKES THEM CREDIBLEYes—if the formulation is backed by science. A good barrier repair cream should:advertisementMimic the skin's natural lipid ratio (3:1:1 of ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids)Contain humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acidInclude soothing ingredients like panthenol or bisabololBe fragrance-free and suitable for sensitive skinHave a balanced pH and non-comedogenic profile'These aren't just moisturisers,' says Dr Lahoria. 'They're therapeutic interventions for stressed skin.'The rise in awareness of skin barrier health marks a significant shift in how people view skincare. Post-pandemic concerns, increased exposure to education, and the trend of 'skinimalism' have all fuelled this movement.'Barrier-first skincare isn't just a trend,' concludes Dr Lahoria. 'It reflects a deeper understanding of skin biology—and it's where real, lasting skin health begins.'- Ends
Time of India
20-06-2025
- Health
- Time of India
Sunscreen isn't seasonal—Myths you seriously need to stop believing
Sunscreen isn't just for the beach or summer holidays it's your skin's daily shield against premature ageing, pigmentation, and invisible damage, year-round. Despite growing awareness, several myths still prevent people from using sunscreen correctly or consistently. Let's separate fact from fiction. Myth 1: Sunscreen is only needed during summer or when it's sunny Fact: UV radiation is present all year round, regardless of weather or temperature. Research shows that up to 80% of UV rays still reach your skin even on cloudy or rainy days. UVA rays, in particular, penetrate deep into the skin and accelerate ageing, pigmentation, and collagen breakdown. Daily sunscreen use is crucial—rain or shine. Myth 2: Sunscreen isn't necessary indoors Fact: UVA rays can penetrate glass, including windows at home, in your car, or at the office. This constant low-level exposure contributes to cumulative skin damage, even if you're not stepping outside. If you spend long hours near a window, you should still apply sunscreen, especially on the face, neck, and hands. Myth 3: Darker skin tones don't need sunscreen Fact: While melanin provides some natural UV protection, it's not enough to prevent sun damage. People with deeper skin tones are still prone to hyperpigmentation, uneven tone, and long-term damage. More importantly, skin cancers in darker skin are often diagnosed later, which can lead to worse outcomes. Everyone, regardless of skin tone, should use SPF. Myth 4: Makeup with SPF is enough Fact: SPF in makeup is a helpful bonus, but not a replacement for standalone sunscreen. Most people don't apply enough makeup to achieve the level of sun protection claimed on the label. Think of SPF in your foundation as a top-up not your primary shield. For real protection, use sunscreen first, then layer makeup on top. Sun protection is not a seasonal habit it's a lifelong commitment. Whether it's sunny, cloudy, rainy, or snowy, sunscreen should be the final step of your morning routine, every day. Sun damage is silent and cumulative it builds up over years. Wearing sunscreen daily is one of the simplest yet most powerful ways to future-proof your skin. The next time you wonder whether to skip sunscreen because it's gloomy weather or you're indoors, remember this sun damage is silent, cumulative and often shows up years later. Today, by taking a few seconds to apply sunscreen -- you can go a long way in keeping your skin healthier tomorrow. Dr Vikram Lahoria, Consultant Dermatologist and Medical Advisor, Ceuticoz One step to a healthier you—join Times Health+ Yoga and feel the change
India Today
10-06-2025
- Health
- India Today
Do essential oils really help with hair growth? Expert explains
Essential oils have become a staple in the modern wellness and beauty lexicon, hailed as natural solutions for everything from dandruff to hair care. Social media are flooded with DIY recipes and testimonials claiming miraculous hair regrowth from just a few drops of lavender or rosemary oil. But how much of this is backed by dermatological science—and where should we draw the line between hype and evidence?advertisementIndia Today spoke with Dr Vikram Lahoria, Consultant Dermatologist and Medical Advisor at Ceuticoz, to decode the real role of essential oils in hair health, debunk myths, and understand how these plant-based extracts fit into a medically sound haircare ESSENTIAL OILS PROMOTE HAIR GROWTH, OR IS IT MOSTLY MARKETING?While essential oils have been used in traditional medicine for centuries, their role in modern dermatology is still evolving. Dr Lahoria explains that essential oils do contain bioactive compounds, like anti-inflammatory agents and vasodilators, that can support scalp health. However, 'most claims around hair regrowth are anecdotal or based on small-scale studies,' he cautions. Oils like rosemary, peppermint, and lavender have shown promise in early research, but they are not comparable to established treatments like minoxidil or finasteride, especially for conditions like androgenetic alopecia. 'They can be effective adjuncts, not stand-alone therapies,' he ESSENTIAL OILS HAVE ACTUAL SCIENTIFIC BACKING?advertisementAccording to Dr. Lahoria, a few essential oils do stand out in terms of available research:Rosemary Oil: A 2015 study found it comparable to 2% minoxidil in reducing hair fall after six months. It may inhibit 5-alpha-reductase, improving follicular Oil: Animal studies showed increased follicle depth and dermal thickness, likely due to the vasodilation effects of Oil: Exhibited anti-inflammatory benefits and follicle support in preclinical Tree Oil: Best for managing scalp conditions like dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis that contribute to hair Oil: When used in combination blends, it showed some promise for alopecia Dr Lahoria emphasises, 'These studies are preliminary. We need more large-scale, controlled clinical trials to fully establish efficacy.'ROSEMARY OIL VS. MINOXIDIL: CAN NATURE MATCH SCIENCE?The rise of rosemary oil as a 'natural minoxidil' alternative is popular online, but Dr Lahoria calls it an oversimplification. Minoxidil has decades of data behind it. "Rosemary oil showed comparable results in one small trial, but the mechanisms are not as potent or predictable.'Minoxidil works by prolonging the anagen phase and enlarging hair follicles, while rosemary's effect is more indirect, via improved circulation and mild enzyme inhibition. Minoxidil is standardised and regulated. "Essential oils vary in potency and purity, especially in DIY formats," he HAPPENS IF YOU APPLY ESSENTIAL OILS DIRECTLY TO YOUR SCALP?advertisementEssential oils are highly concentrated and should never be applied directly to the scalp without dilution. 'This is a major misconception,' warns Dr side effects includeIrritant contact dermatitisAllergic reactions Phototoxicity, especially from citrus oilsFolliculitisSystemic toxicity, in extreme casesProper usage requires dilution to 1–3% in a suitable carrier oil. Even then, dermatologists recommend patch testing before regular AROUND ESSENTIAL OILS IN HAIR CARE—WHAT NEEDS TO STOPDr Lahoria lists the top myths people should stop believing:'Essential oils can regrow hair like drugs do.'No—they may help in early or mild cases, but not for severe or hormonal hair loss.'More oil means better results.'Overuse can lead to irritation or even worsen hair loss.'Natural means safe.'Essential oils are potent chemicals. Misuse can damage the scalp barrier.'All oils are the same.'Not all oils benefit hair; some can be too harsh or are immediate.'Hair growth is slow. Expect results only after consistent, safe use over DO ESSENTIAL OILS STACK UP AGAINST MEDICAL TREATMENTS?When compared to medical treatments like minoxidil, PRP, or corticosteroids, essential oils are largely supportive. 'They help maintain a healthy scalp environment but don't treat the root causes of medical hair loss,' Dr Lahoria explains. For instance:Minoxidil stimulates growth directly and manage inflammation in autoimmune-related hair oils soothe and support the scalp but lack the potency to reverse significant hair loss.'These aren't your average kitchen blends—they are dermatologically engineered for both performance and safety,' he OILS: THE UNSUNG HEROESCarrier oils do more than just dilute essential oils. TheyHelps absorb active ingredients betterProvide lipid barrier supportReduce irritation and sensitivitySuit different scalp types (e.g., jojoba for oily, argan for dry)Selecting the right carrier is key to delivering results without side EVERYONE USE ESSENTIAL OILS? NOT NECESSARILYDr Lahoria stresses the need for customisationDry, sensitive scalps benefit from calming oils in nourishing dandruff-prone scalps may require antimicrobial hair needs emollient-rich scalps may worsen with the wrong oils.'Personalisation under dermatological guidance is the safest approach,' he FUTURE: FROM BUZZ TO BACKBONE?Will essential oils fade as a trend or evolve into a core element of clinical haircare?'The future is bright—if we focus on scientific formulation and evidence,' says Dr Lahoria. With clean beauty on the rise and consumers demanding plant-based solutions, essential oils will remain relevant. But they must be used in synergy with pharmaceuticals, not in oils aren't miracle workers, but they aren't pure hype either. Their place in haircare lies in supporting scalp health, complementing medical treatments, and enhancing user experience when backed by proper science and responsibly and with the right guidance, they could represent the perfect balance between nature and Watch
