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The Guardian
14-07-2025
- General
- The Guardian
Grilled sardines and tomato and anchovy pie – Irina Janakievska's Balkan recipes for summer
Along the Adriatic coast, sardines are usually grilled over an open fire (na gradele) and served with lemon, excellent local olive oil and blitva, a side dish of young swiss chard, potato and garlic. Fresh sardines are key (they should smell of the sea) and do cook them whole (the heads add wonderful flavour and the small bones soften during cooking). On the Croatian island of Vis, two beloved pogačas (bread)– viška and komiška – tell a tale of friendly rivalry. Both are savoury bread pies (pogača being the word for bread and similar in both composition and etymology to Italian focaccia) filled with onions and salted fish (typically anchovies or sardines), a nod to the island's ancient fishing and seafaring heritage. The key difference? Tomatoes. In Vis town (one side of the island), they're absent; in Komiža (the other side of the island), they're essential and cooked down into a rich sauce. The tomato version is a perfect celebration of summer. The short fermentation time enhances the sauce's depth of flavour, but not overpoweringly so – it is slightly funky, garlicky and spicy, but with a burst of freshness from the citrus and herbs. If you are adept at fermentation, feel free to leave it longer (seven to 14 days), because the flavour will get more complex with time. Once blended, the sauce will keep in the fridge for up to a week. Prep 20 minFerment 72 hr+Marinate 15 min Cook 45 min Serves 4-6 For the tomato sauce300g green tomatoes, roughly chopped1-2 long red or green chillies (30g), sliced, or more to taste1-2 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced¼ tsp black peppercorns Flaky sea salt and black pepper 1 tsp caster sugar150ml filtered water, or boiled and cooled water3 tbsp lemon juice 1 tbsp white balsamic vinegar, or apple cider vinegar 30g fresh parsley, leaves picked and finely chopped10g fresh oregano, leaves picked and finely chopped For the sardines1-1.2kg fresh whole sardines (about 20-24 fish), gutted and descaled3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for cooking2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced2 fresh rosemary sprigs, leaves stripped and finely chopped2 lemons, 1 zested and juiced, 1 cut into wedgesFresh bay leaves (optional) Start the sauce three or four days in advance. In a clean, sterilised 500ml jar, layer the tomatoes, chillies, garlic and peppercorns. Dissolve 3g salt and half a teaspoon of sugar in the filtered water, then pour this over the tomatoes, ensuring everything is submerged (use a fermentation weight or press down with a smaller sterilised jar). Cover loosely with a lid or cheese cloth and leave at room temperature for three to four days, stirring daily. It should smell tangy, with bubbles forming by day two or three. To cook, drain the tomatoes (reserve the brine), transfer the mix to a food processor with the remaining half-teaspoon of sugar, the lemon juice and vinegar, and blend to a chunky or smooth sauce according to your preference. Stir in the herbs, then adjust the salt or acidity to taste; if need be, add a splash of reserved brine. Rinse the sardines under cold water, pat dry with paper towel and put in a shallow dish. In a small bowl, mix the oil, garlic, rosemary, lemon zest, a tablespoon of salt and half a teaspoon of ground black pepper, then coat the fish in this marinade and set aside for at least 15 minutes. For outdoor cooking, prepare a barbecue and let the coals burn until they are covered with a layer of white ash. Oil the grates to prevent sticking or use a fish basket, and scatter bay leaves (if using) directly on to the hot coals. Lay the sardines perpendicular to the grates, so they won't fall through (or in the basket) and grill for three to four minutes per side, until the skin is crisp and slightly charred and the flesh is opaque and flaky. (For indoor cooking, heat the grill to its highest setting, arrange the fish on a large lined baking sheet and grill for eight to 10 minutes.) Serve on a platter with lemon wedges and the tomato sauce in a bowl on the side. Good-quality tomato puree is a great shortcut for fresh tomatoes, and I love adding olives for extra flavour. For a vegan version, use capers instead of anchovies. Pogača is traditionally made with a firmer dough, but I prefer this slow-prove, no-knead method for a lighter texture. Serve warm, cut into squares, with the best olive oil you can find. A glass of plavac mali wouldn't go amiss, either. Prep 15 min Prove 2 hr+ Cook 1 hr 30 min Serves 8-12 For the dough10g fast-acting dry yeast 1 tbsp caster sugar, or honey525g lukewarm water750g strong white bread flour, sifted, plus extra for dustingFlaky sea salt and black pepper3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing For the filling4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil3-4 brown onions (about 750-800g), peeled, halved and sliced into thin half-moons2 tbsp tomato puree, ideally double concentrate50g tin anchovy fillets in olive oil, drained and the oil reserved100g pitted black olives (ideally in olive oil), quartered lengthways2 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves stripped and roughly chopped10g fresh oregano, leaves stripped and roughly chopped Mix the yeast, sugar and water in a small bowl and set aside for five to 10 minutes, until frothy. Combine the flour and a tablespoon of salt in a large bowl, make a well in the middle, then add the yeast mix and a tablespoon of oil and mix to a shaggy, sticky dough. Drizzle another tablespoon of oil over the dough, cover and leave to prove in a warm place for an hour to an hour and a half, until doubled in size. Knock back the dough: using a fork, lift and fold the edges of the dough up and over the centre, turning the bowl slightly each time. Repeat eight times, then shape back into a ball, cover and prove again for an hour to an hour and a half, until doubled in size. Meanwhile, make the filling. Put the oil in a sauté pan on a medium-high heat. Add the onions, half a teaspoon of salt and three or four tablespoons of water, then cook, stirring occasionally, for 25-30 minutes, until soft and golden. Stir in the tomato puree and a generous grind of black pepper, cook for another two or three minutes, then take off the heat and leave to cool. Heat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7 and brush a large 24cm x 34cm baking tin with the remaining oil. Tip the dough on to a lightly floured work surface and divide it into two pieces, one slightly larger than the other. Flour your hands and roll each piece into a ball, then transfer the larger piece to the oiled tin. Using your fingertips, gently press and stretch the dough to cover the bottom of the tin. Spread the cooled onion mix over the dough, arrange the anchovies on top, and scatter on the olives, rosemary and oregano. Flour your hands again, stretch the second piece of dough, and place it over the filling. Pinch and fold the edges to seal, then prick holes all over the top with a fork. Brush all over with the reserved anchovy oil and sprinkle over a generous pinch of flaked salt. Bake for 25-30 minutes, until deep golden brown. Remove and leave to cool for at least 15 minutes before slicing and serving. Irina Janakievska's book, The Balkan Kitchen, is published by Hardie Grant at £27. To order a copy for £24.30, visit
The Guardian
14-07-2025
- General
- The Guardian
Grilled sardines and tomato and anchovy pie – Irina Janakievska's Balkan recipes for summer
Along the Adriatic coast, sardines are usually grilled over an open fire (na gradele) and served with lemon, excellent local olive oil and blitva, a side dish of young swiss chard, potato and garlic. Fresh sardines are key (they should smell of the sea) and do cook them whole (the heads add wonderful flavour and the small bones soften during cooking). On the Croatian island of Vis, two beloved pogačas (bread)– viška and komiška – tell a tale of friendly rivalry. Both are savoury bread pies (pogača being the word for bread and similar in both composition and etymology to Italian focaccia) filled with onions and salted fish (typically anchovies or sardines), a nod to the island's ancient fishing and seafaring heritage. The key difference? Tomatoes. In Vis town (one side of the island), they're absent; in Komiža (the other side of the island), they're essential and cooked down into a rich sauce. The tomato version is a perfect celebration of summer. The short fermentation time enhances the sauce's depth of flavour, but not overpoweringly so – it is slightly funky, garlicky and spicy, but with a burst of freshness from the citrus and herbs. If you are adept at fermentation, feel free to leave it longer (seven to 14 days), because the flavour will get more complex with time. Once blended, the sauce will keep in the fridge for up to a week. Prep 20 minFerment 72 hr+Marinate 15 min Cook 45 min Serves 4-6 For the tomato sauce300g green tomatoes, roughly chopped1-2 long red or green chillies (30g), sliced, or more to taste1-2 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced¼ tsp black peppercorns Flaky sea salt and black pepper 1 tsp caster sugar150ml filtered water, or boiled and cooled water3 tbsp lemon juice 1 tbsp white balsamic vinegar, or apple cider vinegar 30g fresh parsley, leaves picked and finely chopped10g fresh oregano, leaves picked and finely chopped For the sardines1-1.2kg fresh whole sardines (about 20-24 fish), gutted and descaled3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for cooking2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced2 fresh rosemary sprigs, leaves stripped and finely chopped2 lemons, 1 zested and juiced, 1 cut into wedgesFresh bay leaves (optional) Start the sauce three or four days in advance. In a clean, sterilised 500ml jar, layer the tomatoes, chillies, garlic and peppercorns. Dissolve 3g salt and half a teaspoon of sugar in the filtered water, then pour this over the tomatoes, ensuring everything is submerged (use a fermentation weight or press down with a smaller sterilised jar). Cover loosely with a lid or cheese cloth and leave at room temperature for three to four days, stirring daily. It should smell tangy, with bubbles forming by day two or three. To cook, drain the tomatoes (reserve the brine), transfer the mix to a food processor with the remaining half-teaspoon of sugar, the lemon juice and vinegar, and blend to a chunky or smooth sauce according to your preference. Stir in the herbs, then adjust the salt or acidity to taste; if need be, add a splash of reserved brine. Rinse the sardines under cold water, pat dry with paper towel and put in a shallow dish. In a small bowl, mix the oil, garlic, rosemary, lemon zest, a tablespoon of salt and half a teaspoon of ground black pepper, then coat the fish in this marinade and set aside for at least 15 minutes. For outdoor cooking, prepare a barbecue and let the coals burn until they are covered with a layer of white ash. Oil the grates to prevent sticking or use a fish basket, and scatter bay leaves (if using) directly on to the hot coals. Lay the sardines perpendicular to the grates, so they won't fall through (or in the basket) and grill for three to four minutes per side, until the skin is crisp and slightly charred and the flesh is opaque and flaky. (For indoor cooking, heat the grill to its highest setting, arrange the fish on a large lined baking sheet and grill for eight to 10 minutes.) Serve on a platter with lemon wedges and the tomato sauce in a bowl on the side. Good-quality tomato puree is a great shortcut for fresh tomatoes, and I love adding olives for extra flavour. For a vegan version, use capers instead of anchovies. Pogača is traditionally made with a firmer dough, but I prefer this slow-prove, no-knead method for a lighter texture. Serve warm, cut into squares, with the best olive oil you can find. A glass of plavac mali wouldn't go amiss, either. Prep 15 min Prove 2 hr+ Cook 1 hr 30 min Serves 8-12 For the dough10g fast-acting dry yeast 1 tbsp caster sugar, or honey525g lukewarm water750g strong white bread flour, sifted, plus extra for dustingFlaky sea salt and black pepper3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing For the filling4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil3-4 brown onions (about 750-800g), peeled, halved and sliced into thin half-moons2 tbsp tomato puree, ideally double concentrate50g tin anchovy fillets in olive oil, drained and the oil reserved100g pitted black olives (ideally in olive oil), quartered lengthways2 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves stripped and roughly chopped10g fresh oregano, leaves stripped and roughly chopped Mix the yeast, sugar and water in a small bowl and set aside for five to 10 minutes, until frothy. Combine the flour and a tablespoon of salt in a large bowl, make a well in the middle, then add the yeast mix and a tablespoon of oil and mix to a shaggy, sticky dough. Drizzle another tablespoon of oil over the dough, cover and leave to prove in a warm place for an hour to an hour and a half, until doubled in size. Knock back the dough: using a fork, lift and fold the edges of the dough up and over the centre, turning the bowl slightly each time. Repeat eight times, then shape back into a ball, cover and prove again for an hour to an hour and a half, until doubled in size. Meanwhile, make the filling. Put the oil in a sauté pan on a medium-high heat. Add the onions, half a teaspoon of salt and three or four tablespoons of water, then cook, stirring occasionally, for 25-30 minutes, until soft and golden. Stir in the tomato puree and a generous grind of black pepper, cook for another two or three minutes, then take off the heat and leave to cool. Heat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7 and brush a large 24cm x 34cm baking tin with the remaining oil. Tip the dough on to a lightly floured work surface and divide it into two pieces, one slightly larger than the other. Flour your hands and roll each piece into a ball, then transfer the larger piece to the oiled tin. Using your fingertips, gently press and stretch the dough to cover the bottom of the tin. Spread the cooled onion mix over the dough, arrange the anchovies on top, and scatter on the olives, rosemary and oregano. Flour your hands again, stretch the second piece of dough, and place it over the filling. Pinch and fold the edges to seal, then prick holes all over the top with a fork. Brush all over with the reserved anchovy oil and sprinkle over a generous pinch of flaked salt. Bake for 25-30 minutes, until deep golden brown. Remove and leave to cool for at least 15 minutes before slicing and serving. Irina Janakievska's book, The Balkan Kitchen, is published by Hardie Grant at £27. To order a copy for £24.30, visit
Asharq Al-Awsat
24-02-2025
- Business
- Asharq Al-Awsat
Dutch Software Firm Bird to leave Europe Due to Onerous Regulations in AI Era, Says CEO
Cloud communications software firm Bird, one of the Netherlands' most prominent tech startups, plans to move most of its operations out of Europe, its CEO said, citing restrictive regulations and difficulties hiring skilled technology workers. "We are mostly leaving Europe as it lacks the environment we need to innovate in an AI-first era of technology," CEO Robert Vis told Reuters on Monday. "We foresee that regulations in Europe will block true innovation in a global economy moving extremely fast to AI," he said in a text message response to Reuters queries. Bird's operations in future will be mostly split between New York, Singapore and Dubai, he said, Reuters reported. Vis first announced the move abroad in a LinkedIn post over the weekend. Bird, formerly known as Message Bird, was founded in Amsterdam in 2011. It is a competitor of US-based Twilio in the market for helping companies manage their communications with consumers across digital mediums such as messaging, email and video apps. It says it has developed an AI-powered platform that automates and streamlines business operations across entire organizations including tech leaders. Last year the European Union introduced the world's first comprehensive set of rules regulating the use of artificial intelligence, drawing criticism from the United States that European regulations could strangle development of the technology. Vis said Bird will no longer have a single operational headquarters. In Europe, the company will retain an office in Lithuania and the company's tax base will continue to be the Netherlands for the time being. Bird reported a 17 million euro ($17.80 million) net profit in 2023 on sales of 555 million euros, according to its most recent filing with the Dutch Chamber of Commerce.
Reuters
24-02-2025
- Business
- Reuters
Dutch software firm Bird to leave Europe due to onerous regulations in AI era, says CEO
AMSTERDAM, Feb 24 (Reuters) - Cloud communications software firm Bird, one of the Netherlands' most prominent tech startups, plans to move most of its operations out of Europe, its CEO said, citing restrictive regulations and difficulties hiring skilled technology workers. "We are mostly leaving Europe as it lacks the environment we need to innovate in an AI-first era of technology," CEO Robert Vis told Reuters on Monday. "We foresee that regulations in Europe will block true innovation in a global economy moving extremely fast to AI," he said in a text message response to Reuters queries. Bird's operations in future will be mostly split between New York, Singapore and Dubai, he said. Vis first announced the move abroad in a LinkedIn post over the weekend. Bird, formerly known as Message Bird, was founded in Amsterdam in 2011. It is a competitor of U.S.-based Twilio (TWLO.N), opens new tab in the market for helping companies manage their communications with consumers across digital mediums such as messaging, email and video apps. It says it has developed an AI-powered platform that automates and streamlines business operations across entire organizations including tech leaders. Last year the European Union introduced the world's first comprehensive set of rules regulating the use of artificial intelligence, drawing criticism from the United States that European regulations could strangle development of the technology. Vis said Bird will no longer have a single operational headquarters. In Europe, the company will retain an office in Lithuania and the company's tax base will continue to be the Netherlands for the time being. Bird reported a 17 million euro ($17.80 million) net profit in 2023 on sales of 555 million euros, according to its most recent filing with the Dutch Chamber of Commerce. ($1 = 0.9552 euros)
Yahoo
11-02-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Bird cuts 120 jobs as part of 'strategic realignment'
Cloud communication service Bird has cut 120 jobs -- roughly one-third of its total workforce. The Amsterdam-based firm -- formerly known as MessageBird -- plans to realign its global operations amid the ongoing AI boom, TechCrunch has exclusively learned. Bird has since confirmed the news. The Dutch startup contacted impacted employees on Friday. The move comes just a year after Bird cut 90 employees following its rebrand. The company also slashed prices at the time in an effort to take on the likes of Twilio, Klaviyo, and Attentive. The startup offers a CRM (customer relationship management) platform for marketing, sales, and payments via email, SMS, and WhatsApp. Bird founder and CEO Robert Vis confirmed the number of employees impacted, adding that most of the roles were in Europe. "While Bird was founded in Amsterdam and built strong European roots, our customer footprint has grown significantly in the Americas and Asia. This realignment will position our teams closer to our customers, enabling us to better serve them in their local time zones and cultural contexts," Vis said in a statement emailed to TechCrunch. The startup counts Meta, PayPal, Square, and Uber as its key customers. It offers a unified solution to let businesses communicate with their customers via different channels, including email, SMS, voice, and WhatsApp. Vis asserted the layoffs were "not a cost-reduction exercise" as the startup's "financials remain strong." Instead, AI adoption has contributed to the reduction of roles. The list of similarly impacted companies includes Sprinklr, Workday, and Okta. "The changes will help us return to the agile, focused model that drove our early success — starting with SMS and expanding to become one of the world's largest providers of business communications solutions," Vis said. The executive stated that the affected employees would receive "comprehensive transition support" without sharing specifics on the severance. In 2021, Bird raised $800 million in a Series C extension featuring Tiger Global, Eurazeo, and Owl Rock. That followed a $240 million round that valued the startup at $3 billion. The startup acquired email marketing platform SparkPost in 2021 for $600 million. Sign in to access your portfolio
