Grilled sardines and tomato and anchovy pie – Irina Janakievska's Balkan recipes for summer
The short fermentation time enhances the sauce's depth of flavour, but not overpoweringly so – it is slightly funky, garlicky and spicy, but with a burst of freshness from the citrus and herbs. If you are adept at fermentation, feel free to leave it longer (seven to 14 days), because the flavour will get more complex with time. Once blended, the sauce will keep in the fridge for up to a week.
Prep 20 minFerment 72 hr+Marinate 15 min
Cook 45 min
Serves 4-6
For the tomato sauce300g green tomatoes, roughly chopped1-2 long red or green chillies (30g), sliced, or more to taste1-2 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced¼ tsp black peppercorns
Flaky sea salt and black pepper
1 tsp caster sugar150ml filtered water, or boiled and cooled water3 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp white balsamic vinegar, or apple cider vinegar
30g fresh parsley, leaves picked and finely chopped10g fresh oregano, leaves picked and finely chopped
For the sardines1-1.2kg fresh whole sardines (about 20-24 fish), gutted and descaled3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for cooking2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced2 fresh rosemary sprigs, leaves stripped and finely chopped2 lemons, 1 zested and juiced, 1 cut into wedgesFresh bay leaves (optional)
Start the sauce three or four days in advance. In a clean, sterilised 500ml jar, layer the tomatoes, chillies, garlic and peppercorns. Dissolve 3g salt and half a teaspoon of sugar in the filtered water, then pour this over the tomatoes, ensuring everything is submerged (use a fermentation weight or press down with a smaller sterilised jar). Cover loosely with a lid or cheese cloth and leave at room temperature for three to four days, stirring daily. It should smell tangy, with bubbles forming by day two or three.
To cook, drain the tomatoes (reserve the brine), transfer the mix to a food processor with the remaining half-teaspoon of sugar, the lemon juice and vinegar, and blend to a chunky or smooth sauce according to your preference. Stir in the herbs, then adjust the salt or acidity to taste; if need be, add a splash of reserved brine.
Rinse the sardines under cold water, pat dry with paper towel and put in a shallow dish. In a small bowl, mix the oil, garlic, rosemary, lemon zest, a tablespoon of salt and half a teaspoon of ground black pepper, then coat the fish in this marinade and set aside for at least 15 minutes.
For outdoor cooking, prepare a barbecue and let the coals burn until they are covered with a layer of white ash. Oil the grates to prevent sticking or use a fish basket, and scatter bay leaves (if using) directly on to the hot coals. Lay the sardines perpendicular to the grates, so they won't fall through (or in the basket) and grill for three to four minutes per side, until the skin is crisp and slightly charred and the flesh is opaque and flaky. (For indoor cooking, heat the grill to its highest setting, arrange the fish on a large lined baking sheet and grill for eight to 10 minutes.)
Serve on a platter with lemon wedges and the tomato sauce in a bowl on the side.
Good-quality tomato puree is a great shortcut for fresh tomatoes, and I love adding olives for extra flavour. For a vegan version, use capers instead of anchovies. Pogača is traditionally made with a firmer dough, but I prefer this slow-prove, no-knead method for a lighter texture. Serve warm, cut into squares, with the best olive oil you can find. A glass of plavac mali wouldn't go amiss, either.
Prep 15 min
Prove 2 hr+
Cook 1 hr 30 min
Serves 8-12
For the dough10g fast-acting dry yeast
1 tbsp caster sugar, or honey525g lukewarm water750g strong white bread flour, sifted, plus extra for dustingFlaky sea salt and black pepper3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing
For the filling4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil3-4 brown onions (about 750-800g), peeled, halved and sliced into thin half-moons2 tbsp tomato puree, ideally double concentrate50g tin anchovy fillets in olive oil, drained and the oil reserved100g pitted black olives (ideally in olive oil), quartered lengthways2 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves stripped and roughly chopped10g fresh oregano, leaves stripped and roughly chopped
Mix the yeast, sugar and water in a small bowl and set aside for five to 10 minutes, until frothy.
Combine the flour and a tablespoon of salt in a large bowl, make a well in the middle, then add the yeast mix and a tablespoon of oil and mix to a shaggy, sticky dough. Drizzle another tablespoon of oil over the dough, cover and leave to prove in a warm place for an hour to an hour and a half, until doubled in size.
Knock back the dough: using a fork, lift and fold the edges of the dough up and over the centre, turning the bowl slightly each time. Repeat eight times, then shape back into a ball, cover and prove again for an hour to an hour and a half, until doubled in size.
Meanwhile, make the filling. Put the oil in a sauté pan on a medium-high heat. Add the onions, half a teaspoon of salt and three or four tablespoons of water, then cook, stirring occasionally, for 25-30 minutes, until soft and golden. Stir in the tomato puree and a generous grind of black pepper, cook for another two or three minutes, then take off the heat and leave to cool.
Heat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7 and brush a large 24cm x 34cm baking tin with the remaining oil. Tip the dough on to a lightly floured work surface and divide it into two pieces, one slightly larger than the other. Flour your hands and roll each piece into a ball, then transfer the larger piece to the oiled tin. Using your fingertips, gently press and stretch the dough to cover the bottom of the tin. Spread the cooled onion mix over the dough, arrange the anchovies on top, and scatter on the olives, rosemary and oregano.
Flour your hands again, stretch the second piece of dough, and place it over the filling. Pinch and fold the edges to seal, then prick holes all over the top with a fork. Brush all over with the reserved anchovy oil and sprinkle over a generous pinch of flaked salt. Bake for 25-30 minutes, until deep golden brown. Remove and leave to cool for at least 15 minutes before slicing and serving.
Irina Janakievska's book, The Balkan Kitchen, is published by Hardie Grant at £27. To order a copy for £24.30, visit guardianbookshop.com
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
The Guardian
8 hours ago
- The Guardian
Joy and relief as lotus flowers bloom again in Kashmiri lake after three decades
'We threw seeds into the lake hundreds of times, but nothing grew. It's only now, after the silt was cleared, that we see the flowers again after nearly 33 years,' says Bashir Ahmad, a 65-year-old who fishes in Kashmir's Wular Lake for his livelihood. Wular was once among Asia's largest freshwater lakes. It lies in the Kashmir valley, about 18 miles (30km) north-west of Srinagar, at the foot of the Pir Panjal and Himalayan mountain ranges. It was renowned for its high-quality lotus plants, and sustained the livelihoods of more than 5,000 people who harvested and sold nadru – the edible lotus stem cherished as a delicacy in Kashmiri households and which features in wazwan, the region's traditional multi-course celebratory meals. Then, in 1992, devastating floods hit the region. They choked the lake bed with silt, wiping out the lotus plants and plunging families into poverty. The prized stems gradually disappeared as an ingredient used in local kitchens. Over the next three decades, the condition of the lake – designated as a Ramsar wetland of international importance since 1990 – worsened, Bashir says. Parts were turned into dumping grounds and its area was drastically reduced. While in 1911 it spanned 217 sq km (84 sq miles), with 58 sq km of marshes, by 2007 the lake had shrunk by nearly two-thirds to cover just 86 sq km, according to the Jammu and Kashmir regional government. An official survey blames the shrinkage largely on land being converted for farming, which also led to a 17% decline in the lake's fauna. Expanding willow plantations around the lake increased the buildup of silt. The trees acted as barriers, disrupting the flow of the river and causing sediment to accumulate. In 2020, the Wular Conservation and Management Authority (Wucma) began a de-silting programme to restore the lake's depth and remove waste carried down by the Jhelum River and its tributaries. Officials say more than 7.9m cubic metres of silt have been removed from the lake so far. More than 2 million willows have been uprooted. Five years on, the lotus flowers are blooming again. Ahmad, whose four brothers also depend on the lake for their livelihood, says that seeing the lotus bloom again feels like a dream come true. 'We had lost all hope that it would ever return. Some in our community even took up other work, like labouring, to survive. But we waited,' he says. 'Our elders used to collect lotus stems from the lake and sell them in various markets across the valley, especially during special occasions,' he says. 'After the lotus disappeared, they turned to fishing, but that didn't prove as sustainable. The return of the lotus has brought back hope.' Ahmad's brother, Mohammad Fayaz Dar, says that after the lotus stems disappeared, nadru also gradually vanished from local diets. 'But now, we believe it will be revived completely,' he says. The dishes made with it, Dar adds, hold deep cultural significance for Kashmiri families: 'Lotus stem connects our food to the land. Its absence changed menus. 'Now that it's back, we're preparing dishes the way our grandmothers did – slow, simple, and full of memory,' said Tavir Ahmad, a chef in a Kashmir market. Wucma officials said the revival of the lotus would help boost the local economy, which was otherwise on the verge of collapse. 'It's public property, but people need to take care of it,' said Showket Ahmad, a Wucma employee. He says that although lotus stems had not been visible in the lake for years, the roots had probably remained dormant – buried under layers of silt. 'After we cleared silt from specific areas, lotus plants started re-emerging,' he says. Historically, the lake has sustained fishing communities and harvesters of water chestnuts. It remains a critical habitat for migratory birds, including the Siberian crane. 'This is not just the revival of a plant, it's the resurrection of a cultural ecosystem,' said Meera Sharma, a Delhi-based environmentalist. 'When nature heals, it revives everything it once nurtured – livelihoods, traditions, biodiversity. 'The return of the lotus in Wular is a profound reminder that environmental restoration isn't just about aesthetics or data points; it's about restoring human connection with the land,' she says. 'Seeing these flowers bloom again after decades is like watching history breathe.' Find more age of extinction coverage here, and follow the biodiversity reporters Phoebe Weston and Patrick Greenfield in the Guardian app for more nature coverage
The Guardian
15 hours ago
- The Guardian
Joy and relief as lotus flowers bloom again in Kashmiri lake after three decades
'We threw seeds into the lake hundreds of times, but nothing grew. It's only now, after the silt was cleared, that we see the flowers again after nearly 33 years,' says Bashir Ahmad, a 65-year-old who fishes in Kashmir's Wular Lake for his livelihood. Wular was once among Asia's largest freshwater lakes. It lies in the Kashmir valley, about 18 miles (30km) north-west of Srinagar, at the foot of the Pir Panjal and Himalayan mountain ranges. It was renowned for its high-quality lotus plants, and sustained the livelihoods of more than 5,000 people who harvested and sold nadru – the edible lotus stem cherished as a delicacy in Kashmiri households and which features in wazwan, the region's traditional multi-course celebratory meals. Then, in 1992, devastating floods hit the region. They choked the lake bed with silt, wiping out the lotus plants and plunging families into poverty. The prized stems gradually disappeared as an ingredient used in local kitchens. Over the next three decades, the condition of the lake – designated as a Ramsar wetland of international importance since 1990 – worsened, Bashir says. Parts were turned into dumping grounds and its area was drastically reduced. While in 1911 it spanned 217 sq km (84 sq miles), with 58 sq km of marshes, by 2007 the lake had shrunk by nearly two-thirds to cover just 86 sq km, according to the Jammu and Kashmir regional government. An official survey blames the shrinkage largely on land being converted for farming, which also led to a 17% decline in the lake's fauna. Expanding willow plantations around the lake increased the buildup of silt. The trees acted as barriers, disrupting the flow of the river and causing sediment to accumulate. In 2020, the Wular Conservation and Management Authority (Wucma) began a de-silting programme to restore the lake's depth and remove waste carried down by the Jhelum River and its tributaries. Officials say more than 7.9m cubic metres of silt have been removed from the lake so far. More than 2 million willows have been uprooted. Five years on, the lotus flowers are blooming again. Ahmad, whose four brothers also depend on the lake for their livelihood, says that seeing the lotus bloom again feels like a dream come true. 'We had lost all hope that it would ever return. Some in our community even took up other work, like labouring, to survive. But we waited,' he says. 'Our elders used to collect lotus stems from the lake and sell them in various markets across the valley, especially during special occasions,' he says. 'After the lotus disappeared, they turned to fishing, but that didn't prove as sustainable. The return of the lotus has brought back hope.' Ahmad's brother, Mohammad Fayaz Dar, says that after the lotus stems disappeared, nadru also gradually vanished from local diets. 'But now, we believe it will be revived completely,' he says. The dishes made with it, Dar adds, hold deep cultural significance for Kashmiri families: 'Lotus stem connects our food to the land. Its absence changed menus. 'Now that it's back, we're preparing dishes the way our grandmothers did – slow, simple, and full of memory,' said Tavir Ahmad, a chef in a Kashmir market. Wucma officials said the revival of the lotus would help boost the local economy, which was otherwise on the verge of collapse. 'It's public property, but people need to take care of it,' said Showket Ahmad, a Wucma employee. He says that although lotus stems had not been visible in the lake for years, the roots had probably remained dormant – buried under layers of silt. 'After we cleared silt from specific areas, lotus plants started re-emerging,' he says. Historically, the lake has sustained fishing communities and harvesters of water chestnuts. It remains a critical habitat for migratory birds, including the Siberian crane. 'This is not just the revival of a plant, it's the resurrection of a cultural ecosystem,' said Meera Sharma, a Delhi-based environmentalist. 'When nature heals, it revives everything it once nurtured – livelihoods, traditions, biodiversity. 'The return of the lotus in Wular is a profound reminder that environmental restoration isn't just about aesthetics or data points; it's about restoring human connection with the land,' she says. 'Seeing these flowers bloom again after decades is like watching history breathe.' Find more age of extinction coverage here, and follow the biodiversity reporters Phoebe Weston and Patrick Greenfield in the Guardian app for more nature coverage
BBC News
a day ago
- BBC News
Two fishermen rescued by RNLI three miles from Shoreham-by-Sea
Two fisherman have expressed their thanks to rescue teams after they were pulled from the water as their boat men were rescued by RNLI Sussex three miles south off Shoreham-by-Sea early on Saturday pair had just enough time to put on lifejackets and alert the coastguard before their 17ft fishing vessel went down, resulting in them being thrown into the of the men, who was named as Robert by the RNLI, says they were both "so relieved to see the lifeboat" after their vessel sank within minutes. He said: "We both have children and it might have been a different story for our families if the lifeboat crew hadn't been there to rescue us. "We want to say a huge thank you to them."
