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Fashion Network
01-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Deeny's dozen: 12 best menswear collections this season
These are my rankings of the 12 best menswear collections in the runway season that ended on Sunday evening in Paris, listed in chronological order. A season characteried by rampant color, stylish historicism, hybrid fabrics and a battle over the future of tailoring— to deconstruct or not? Enter the renaissance of male refinement. Zegna See catwalk Though this collection was unveiled at the Dubai Opera, it was still easily one of Europe's best arrays of new ideas. Recycled fabrics or hybrid threads; whisper-light deconstruction; and the first of many pajama suits in one-inch-wide vertical stripes in light silk voile. In a word, Alessandro Sartori at his best. Welcome to the lightest of layering. See catwalk Something of a breakout moment for Post Archive Faction (PAF) co-founder Dongjoon Lim, whose meeting of tough chic and street style was revelatory. Stiff dandy pajama suits in putty-hued toweling material; chiffon mesh crepe blazers that felt like light scouring pads; or desert-dry linen shirts presented to huge applause inside Stazione Leopolda. Very much the standout fashion show of Pitti. Dolce & Gabbana See catwalk Expect a long, hot summer in 2026—ideally when wearing the latest from Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Stripes, stripes and more stripes, leading to the finale where two scores of hirsute male models marched out in pajama pants, blazers, shorts and suits—all maxi-decorated with crystal, jet and strass. Casualwear chic conquers all. Brioni See catwalk A moment of grace—and extreme levity—at Brioni, presented in a palazzo that once belonged to the Casati family, whose Maria Luisa Casati—artist muse and style icon—inspired one of John Galliano 's greatest shows. From perfectly cut pale shawl-collar silk-linen tuxedos, where adding enzymes reduced the shine, to a beige tuxedo embroidered with real gold thread in tiny designs of Brioni's famed plant in the Abruzzi region, this was the finest example of haute sartorial style. And a thousand miles from AI. Giorgio Armani See catwalk Giorgio missed his signature show due to ill health, and it did lack an edit. But it was still the best selection of the super-deconstructed summer suits made in silk and pajama fabrics. Giorgio's polished Pantelleria panache at its best. Even absent, Armani remains menswear's greatest tailor. Louis Vuitton See catwalk Snakes-and-ladders chic from Pharrell Williams and his best collection so far for Louis Vuitton, staged in a massive fashion and music happening outside the Pompidou Centre. The pay dirt coming in Williams' excellent fresh tailoring: from snappy pop star double-breasted jackets worn with flared trousers, to micro blazers and wide pleated pants—very David Live album cover in Paris. Add 'tailor' to Pharrell's list of professions, after producer, rockstar, dandy and dad. Grace Wales Bonner See catwalk In a season defined by the renaissance of kicky tailoring, Grace Wales Bonner was completely in the zone with her blend of Afro-Caribbean panache meets active sports. Lean suits with ever-so-flared pants and jackets with contrast collars; Crombies accessorized with diamond baobab-flower brooches and berets courtesy of Stephen Jones, and the best eveningwear in menswear. All anchored by some amazing new Y-3 Field shoes. Issey Miyake See catwalk After a far too restrained Homme Plissé collection in Pitti, the house's IM Men 'Dancing Texture' collection, in the soon-to-be-relocated Fondation Cartier, was a real beauty. Performance dance art met adventurous design, fabrics and colour. As design trio Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara and Nobutaka Kobayashi showed scale-like motifs echoing across suits, tunics, kimono jackets and draped trench coats—made in hues of acid greens, violet blues and dazzling turquoises. The colour palette of the season and a lesson to cool guys on how to stand out in a crowd. Dries Van Noten See catwalk Very much the noisiest applause of the season was for the menswear debut of Dries Van Noten, where feminine fabrics and hues met fluid menswear tailoring. Revamped and rippling opera coats; double-breasted blazers with noble volumes; pale trenches with crystal-embroidered shoulders; silk tops in Edwardian rugby shirt colors with plissé pajama pants. These were the clothes that the cast most enjoyed being seen in this June. Always a telling sign. Dior See catwalk In the season's biggest debut, Jonathan Anderson at Dior, the Northern Irishman zoned in on the house's DNA—especially womenswear designs by Monsieur Dior himself—to create a powerful, pathbreaking fashion statement. Like Monsieur's famed Bar Jacket whipped up in Donegal tweed. Or Monsieur's Autumn 1948 multi-fold Delft dress made in silk faille that morphed into multi-leaf white denim cargo shorts. Or Christian's Autumn 1952 dimpled moiré coat, La Cigale, that became undulating men's greatcoats. Turning Dior's DNA upside down for the 21st century—and about time too. Craig Green See catwalk The most fertile imagination in menswear, Craig Green helped close out the season with a show that was simply sensational. Riffing through materials, epochs, cultural references and diverse artistic moods, Green developed a Beatles-inspired psychedelic fantasy that lesser talents can only dream of even imagining. While his multi-tagged and tied opening straightjackets were the season's best—and boldest—look. Taakk See catwalk Takuya Morikawa of Taakk staged the final official show of Paris menswear—and talk about a sweet F-finale. Morikawa wants men to be sophisticated next summer, with all manner of innovative dyeing processes and silhouette-enhancing details. Elegant light coats were given volume through multiple sculptural embroideries, made in ribbons drawn from the same fabric as the garment. Dévoré technique coupled with foam printing processes created indistinct fusions of printed motifs, embroidery and gradient effects. Surface chic at its best.
Fashion Network
01-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Deeny's dozen: 12 best menswear collections this season
These are my rankings of the 12 best menswear collections in the runway season that ended on Sunday evening in Paris, listed in chronological order. A season characterized by rampant color, stylish historicism, hybrid fabrics and a battle over the future of tailoring— to deconstruct or not? Enter the renaissance of male refinement. Zegna See catwalk Though this collection was unveiled at the Dubai Opera, it was still easily one of Europe's best arrays of new ideas. Recycled fabrics or hybrid threads; whisper-light deconstruction; and the first of many pajama suits in one-inch-wide vertical stripes in light silk voile. In a word, Alessandro Sartori at his best. Welcome to the lightest of layering. See catwalk Something of a breakout moment for Post Archive Faction (PAF) co-founder Dongjoon Lim, whose meeting of tough chic and street style was revelatory. Stiff dandy pajama suits in putty-hued toweling material; chiffon mesh crepe blazers that felt like light scouring pads; or desert-dry linen shirts presented to huge applause inside Stazione Leopolda. Very much the standout fashion show of Pitti. Dolce & Gabbana See catwalk Expect a long, hot summer in 2026—ideally when wearing the latest from Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Stripes, stripes and more stripes, leading to the finale where two scores of hirsute male models marched out in pajama pants, blazers, shorts and suits—all maxi-decorated with crystal, jet and strass. Casualwear chic conquers all. Brioni See catwalk A moment of grace—and extreme levity—at Brioni, presented in a palazzo that once belonged to the Casati family, whose Maria Luisa Casati—artist muse and style icon—inspired one of John Galliano 's greatest shows. From perfectly cut pale shawl-collar silk-linen tuxedos, where adding enzymes reduced the shine, to a beige tuxedo embroidered with real gold thread in tiny designs of Brioni's famed plant in the Abruzzi region, this was the finest example of haute sartorial style. And a thousand miles from AI. Giorgio Armani See catwalk Giorgio missed his signature show due to ill health, and it did lack an edit. But it was still the best selection of the super-deconstructed summer suits made in silk and pajama fabrics. Giorgio's polished Pantelleria panache at its best. Even absent, Armani remains menswear's greatest tailor. Louis Vuitton See catwalk Snakes-and-ladders chic from Pharrell Williams and his best collection so far for Louis Vuitton, staged in a massive fashion and music happening outside the Pompidou Center. The pay dirt coming in Williams' excellent fresh tailoring: from snappy pop star double-breasted jackets worn with flared trousers, to micro blazers and wide pleated pants—very David Live album cover in Paris. Add 'tailor' to Pharrell's list of professions, after producer, rockstar, dandy and dad. Grace Wales Bonner See catwalk In a season defined by the renaissance of kicky tailoring, Grace Wales Bonner was completely in the zone with her blend of Afro-Caribbean panache meets active sports. Lean suits with ever-so-flared pants and jackets with contrast collars; Crombies accessorized with diamond baobab-flower brooches and berets courtesy of Stephen Jones, and the best eveningwear in menswear. All anchored by some amazing new Y-3 Field shoes. Issey Miyake See catwalk After a far too restrained Homme Plissé collection in Pitti, the house's IM Men 'Dancing Texture' collection, in the soon-to-be-relocated Fondation Cartier, was a real beauty. Performance dance art met adventurous design, fabrics and color. As design trio Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara and Nobutaka Kobayashi showed scale-like motifs echoing across suits, tunics, kimono jackets and draped trench coats—made in hues of acid greens, violet blues and dazzling turquoises. The color palette of the season and a lesson to cool guys on how to stand out in a crowd. Dries Van Noten See catwalk Very much the noisiest applause of the season was for the menswear debut of Dries Van Noten, where feminine fabrics and hues met fluid menswear tailoring. Revamped and rippling opera coats; double-breasted blazers with noble volumes; pale trenches with crystal-embroidered shoulders; silk tops in Edwardian rugby shirt colors with plissé pajama pants. These were the clothes that the cast most enjoyed being seen in this June. Always a telling sign. Dior See catwalk In the season's biggest debut, Jonathan Anderson at Dior, the Northern Irishman zoned in on the house's DNA—especially womenswear designs by Monsieur Dior himself—to create a powerful, pathbreaking fashion statement. Like Monsieur's famed Bar Jacket whipped up in Donegal tweed. Or Monsieur's Autumn 1948 multi-fold Delft dress made in silk faille that morphed into multi-leaf white denim cargo shorts. Or Christian's Autumn 1952 dimpled moiré coat, La Cigale, that became undulating men's greatcoats. Turning Dior's DNA upside down for the 21st century—and about time too. Craig Green See catwalk The most fertile imagination in menswear, Craig Green helped close out the season with a show that was simply sensational. Riffing through materials, epochs, cultural references and diverse artistic moods, Green developed a Beatles-inspired psychedelic fantasy that lesser talents can only dream of even imagining. While his multi-tagged and tied opening straightjackets were the season's best—and boldest—look. Taakk See catwalk Takuya Morikawa of Taakk staged the final official show of Paris menswear—and talk about a sweet F-finale. Morikawa wants men to be sophisticated next summer, with all manner of innovative dyeing processes and silhouette-enhancing details. Elegant light coats were given volume through multiple sculptural embroideries, made in ribbons drawn from the same fabric as the garment. Dévoré technique coupled with foam printing processes created indistinct fusions of printed motifs, embroidery and gradient effects. Surface chic at its best.
Business of Fashion
25-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Business of Fashion
At Milan Fashion Week, Highs and Lows
MILAN — The menswear season in Milan opened with a cauchemar: an official communication saying Mr Armani was 'recovering' at home after a brief hospital stay, and would not be present at either his Giorgio or Emporio shows, something that has never happened in the fifty years since Italy's fashion king launched his business. The news made Milan men's fashion week feel even frailer. With Zegna having already shown in Dubai, and Fendi and Gucci opting for co-ed shows on the women's calendar, the proceedings this time around were a mere three days. But could the receding of the old guard create space for new names? Maybe. Milan has yet to prove itself as an incubator for fresh talent like Paris. But Fondazione Sozzani, for one, is pushing things forward under the leadership of Sara Sozzani Maino. And, slowly, a Milanese vanguard is taking shape. It was 2023 LVMH Prize winner Satoshi Kuwata of Setchu, after all, who staged the first runway show of the week. 0 of 26 Setchu Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 1. (Spotlight/ Setchu Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 2. (Spotlight/ Setchu Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 3. (Spotlight/ Setchu Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 4. (Spotlight/ Setchu Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 5. (Spotlight/ Setchu Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 6. (Spotlight/ Setchu Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 7. (Spotlight/ Setchu Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 8. (Spotlight/ Setchu Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 9. (Spotlight/ Setchu Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 10. (Spotlight/ Setchu Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 11. (Spotlight/ Setchu Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 12. (Spotlight/ Setchu Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 13. (Spotlight/ Setchu Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 14. (Spotlight/ Setchu Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 15. (Spotlight/ Setchu Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 16. 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But his latest collection — inspired by a dialogue with Africa and full of captivating things such as transparent tailoring, rainbow madras, garment bag dresses and bright primary colours — was somewhat diminished by the format of the presentation, which with its straw hats, woven sculpture-skirts and sense of abstract tribalism felt a little forced. Kuwata has a point of view. What he now needs is stronger editing of ideas and a presentation language that's all his own. ADVERTISEMENT 0 of 30 Pronounce Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 1. (Spotlight/ Pronounce Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 2. (Spotlight/ Pronounce Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 3. (Spotlight/ Pronounce Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 4. (Spotlight/ Pronounce Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 5. (Spotlight/ Pronounce Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 6. (Spotlight/ Pronounce Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 7. (Spotlight/ Pronounce Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 8. 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(Spotlight/ Pronounce Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 25. (Spotlight/ Pronounce Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 26. (Spotlight/ Pronounce Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 27. (Spotlight/ Pronounce Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 28. (Spotlight/ Pronounce Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 29. (Spotlight/ Pronounce Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 30. (Spotlight/ Pronounce's Yushan Li and Jun Zhou are part of the new wave of Chinese designers who were schooled in Europe but have established a new dialogue with their culture of origin as adults. Their interpretation aims at abstraction: a laudable intent that after a few stylistically disordered seasons finally found plausible form — give or take the old Prada homage — in the lightness and sensuality of items inspired by kites. 0 of 45 Fiorucci Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 1. (Spotlight/ Fiorucci Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 2. (Spotlight/ Fiorucci Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 3. 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(Spotlight/ Fiorucci Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 38. (Spotlight/ Fiorucci Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 39. (Spotlight/ Fiorucci Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 40. (Spotlight/ Fiorucci Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 41. (Spotlight/ Fiorucci Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 42. (Spotlight/ Fiorucci Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 43. (Spotlight/ Fiorucci Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 44. (Spotlight/ Fiorucci Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 45. (Spotlight/ Fiorucci's new direction under designer Francesca Murri continued to disappoint. Whereas Elio Fiorucci had the rare gift of channeling popular culture into clothes that spoke to generations of customers, Murri's attempts to make the label fashionable feel flat. At PDF, Domenico Formichetti seemed to be entangled once more in a fantasy of suburban roughness that came across as fabricated and more than a little passé. Luca Magliano's Magliano opted for a film by director Thomas Hardiman in lieu of a show this season. This decision, Magliano explained in showroom appointments the day after the screening, was decided at the beginning of the design process and informed a particularly product-driven collection of deconstructed tailoring and hybrid garments — camping and running gear in cotton voile or crepe de Chine, anyone? — in a muddy palette of earthy tones. 0 of 50 Simon Cracker Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 1. (Spotlight/ Simon Cracker Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 2. (Spotlight/ Simon Cracker Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 3. (Spotlight/ Simon Cracker Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 4. (Spotlight/ Simon Cracker Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 5. (Spotlight/ Simon Cracker Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 6. (Spotlight/ Simon Cracker Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 7. (Spotlight/ Simon Cracker Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 8. (Spotlight/ Simon Cracker Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 9. (Spotlight/ Simon Cracker Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 10. 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If past seasons felt a bit messy, this latest outing, all muted tones, outsized pins and uniform dressing, had a deranged strictness to it that felt mature but did not sell out rebellion for convention. The roots of Ludovico Bruno's work for Mordecai are clear, and captivating: a merging of technical sportswear, martial arts gear and Eastern shapes, from the Middle East to Japan. The maneuvering room he gives himself is purposefully narrow, which benefits his work. If in the past Bruno has relied on heavy layering that went a bit much in a Hed Mayner direction, this time around he cleaned up his act, much to his advantage. Meanwhile, Luca Larenza's petite and tiny guerrilla-style presentation took the form of a street stall showcasing his beautiful knits and ceramics: a smart way to be light and connect with fashionistas and passers-by alike. 0 of 56 Prada Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 1. (Spotlight/ Prada Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 2. 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(Spotlight/ As for Milan's heavyweights, they aimed at renewal by trading pomp and circumstance for lightness. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons certainly opted for a change of attitude at Prada. A feeling of reduction, stripping back to the bare minimum pervaded the proceedings. The show venue was completely empty, save for the flower shaped rugs that read as halfway between 'kindergarten' and 'bathroom.' To the sounds of chirping birds and passing trains, the clothes came in essential lines or archetypal shapes like the acetate tracksuit and the overcoat, leaning towards the infantile, with shirts lengthening into aprons, trousers shortening like rompers and gender distinctions erased in a sort of prepubescent limbo. All told, this remained a collection of quintessentially Prada pieces. It would have been interesting to witness a real breaking of the formula: a shift away from soft, youthful masculinity to something more varied. 0 of 93 Dolce&Gabbana Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 1. 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(Spotlight/ Dolce&Gabbana Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 93. (Spotlight/ Dolce & Gabbana was an ode to pajama dressing, by now a classic bordering on the cliché. What made the proposal captivating, however, was the fact that Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana stressed the grungier, edgier side of the striped cotton pajama, the epitome of lounge dressing, as an everyday uniform, making it plausible beyond the eccentric gentlemen and artists typically associated with such attire. The study of roomy proportions was particularly keen, and that translated into striking silhouettes that had volume and a sense of reality. ADVERTISEMENT The Brit contingent was well represented in town this season. Skipping Paris for Milan, Paul Smith was feeling light: I guess he always does, in that classic with a twist kind of way. Explanation of the looks came in the voice of Mr Smith on the soundtrack. This was another foray into tropical prints, light tailoring and nods to cycling, in a show that was swift and easy — and just as immemorable. 0 of 37 Vivienne Westood Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 1. (Spotlight/ Vivienne Westood Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 2. (Spotlight/ Vivienne Westood Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 3. (Spotlight/ Vivienne Westood Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 4. (Spotlight/ Vivienne Westood Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 5. (Spotlight/ Vivienne Westood Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 6. (Spotlight/ Vivienne Westood Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 7. (Spotlight/ Vivienne Westood Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 8. (Spotlight/ Vivienne Westood Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 9. (Spotlight/ Vivienne Westood Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 10. (Spotlight/ Vivienne Westood Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 11. (Spotlight/ Vivienne Westood Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 12. (Spotlight/ Vivienne Westood Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 13. 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Meanwhile, at Dunhill, Simon Holloway continues delving into a world of high class and sartorial privilege that is exquisite to savour. No temptation for grittiness here. Rather, a celebration of all the details, the makings and the fabrications only the wealthy can afford. One either likes it or not — that it all looks from another time period is perhaps inevitable — but the level of the execution is captivating in its faultless refinement. 0 of 98 Emporio Armani Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 1. (Spotlight/ Emporio Armani Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 2. (Spotlight/ Emporio Armani Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 3. (Spotlight/ Emporio Armani Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 4. (Spotlight/ Emporio Armani Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 5. (Spotlight/ Emporio Armani Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 6. (Spotlight/ Emporio Armani Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 7. (Spotlight/ Emporio Armani Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 look 8. 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(Spotlight/ Armani without Mr Armani closed the week. The designer is turning 91 in July and continuity may be key to the company's succession plan: it's clear that lieutenant Leo Dell'Orco and his team are doing very well in menswear, and although he wasn't there in person, Mr Armani's presence was felt with both the Emporio and Giorgio collections echoing the designer's 1990s aesthetic. With the next generation eager to own a chunk of that seminal moment, it was a wise move: one that reaffirms the relevance of a house based on softness and timelessness.
Forbes
15-06-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Zegna's SS ‘26 Dubai Show Is A Vision For A Slow, Quiet Luxury Legacy
DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES - JUNE 11: Models walk the runway during the finale of the Zegna Cruise Show 2026 at Dubai Opera on June 11, 2025 in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. (Photo by) Getty Images At a time when fashion is mitigating its appetite for fast fashion [a la France's latest litigation], Ermenegildo Zegna stands apart by not chasing trends, but by embracing timelessness, heritage, and emotion in each collection. The brand's chief marketing officer and fourth-generation heir, Edoardo Zegna provides a vision for why Zegna isn't just a luxury label, honing in on a philosophy of slowness, craftsmanship for the future of considerable quiet luxury. Recently, the brand hosted a destination cruise runway show, bringing to life Villa Zegna, a precious moment to create an ethos for the future of Zegna enthusiasts. DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES - JUNE 11: A model walks the runway at the Zegna Cruise Show 2026 at Dubai Opera on June 11, 2025 in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. (Photo by) Getty Images Edoardo Zegna forgoes measuring success in quarterly sales or viral moments, leaning more on meticulously orchestrating the brand's delivery to an audience. Conversely, he manifests through the Zegna name. "I love to be described,' he says pensively, 'if you one day will describe our company as the slowest 'company' in the world." The fourth-generation Zegna descendant has designed an internal operation that intentionally makes luxury for those who understand its intrinsic value. "Slow in the creation of the product, the ideation, the development," he clarifies, "but then service is the fastest shift in the world." Models at the Zegna Spring 2026 Show held at the Dubai Opera on June 11, 2025 in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni/WWD via Getty Images) WWD via Getty Images He compares the crafting of a fashion collection to a cook and their cuisine, 'I'm in love with slow food - the idea of enjoying food that needs to be grown slowly, savored. In Italy, we say 'il dolce far niente' - the sweetness of doing nothing." DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES - JUNE 11: Cascou, Mohammed Alahbabi, Basil Al Hadi, Boran Kuzum, Younes Bendjima and Ryan Babel attend the Zegna Cruise Show 2026 at Dubai Opera on June 11, 2025 in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. (Photo by) Getty Images The Summer 2026 runway show rejected traditional spectacle. Their latest presentation in Dubai, at the Dubai Opera, delivered more than a fashion show, doubling as an immersive experience. A journey through an oasis that represented the nature reflected in his grandfather's journey themed the event. DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES - JUNE 11: A general view at the Zegna Cruise Show 2026 at Dubai Opera on June 11, 2025 in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. (Photo by) Getty Images "You had park rangers inviting you in, you heard the chirping of birds, then cows and sheep," Edoardo describes. "The models weren't wearing shoes. Some were holding them. It wasn't about trends - it was about feeling. It's about creating an equation of elements that give you butterflies in your stomach." He forges the idea of Ermenegildo Zegna's experience in the early 1900s. DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES - JUNE 11: Alessandro Sartori and James Blake walk the runway at the Zegna Cruise Show 2026 at Dubai Opera on June 11, 2025 in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. (Photo by) Getty Images For Edoardo Zegna, true luxury isn't defined by price tags or exclusivity, leaning into the thoughtfulness of emotion. Lead by artistic director Alessandro Sartori, Zegna presented bomber jackets, scarfs, casual button shirts, wool jackets, shorts, and trousers that were understated while providing luster to common silhouettes. 'This industry has been focused on facts and figures. How fine a fabric is, how flashy a logo is," he states. "But true luxury should stand for feelings." Models at the Zegna Spring 2026 Show held at the Dubai Opera on June 11, 2025 in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni/WWD via Getty Images) WWD via Getty Images Tracing the Zegna label back to 1910, his great-grandfather, Ermenegildo Zegna, built a wool mill in the Italian Alps, extending beyond just a factory, building a self-sustaining ecosystem and community. This legacy is chronicled in Zegna's 'Born In Oasi' [2024] a book and visual timeline of the Zegna community in the Italian Alps and how Ermenegildo Zegna thoughtfully built his name brand. MILAN, ITALY - APRIL 16: A pile of books "Born in Oasi Zegna" are displayed on occasion of the exhibition "'Born in Oasi" at the headquarters of the Italian fashion house Zegna during the Milan Design Week 2024 on April 16, 2024 in Milan, Italy. Every year, the Salone Internazionale del Mobile and Fuorisalone define the Milan Design Week, the world's largest annual furniture and design event. Centered on principles of circular economy, reuse, and sustainable practices and materials, the Fuorisalone's 24 theme: 'Materia Natura', seeks to foster a culture of mindful design. (Photo by) Getty Images "My great grandfather in 1910 built this wool mill in the mountains of northwest Italy,' Eduardo Zegna explains. 'He planted half a million trees. He built a road that connected all of it. He built a hospital, a school, an orphanage, even a half-Olympic swimming pool in the 1920s for employees," he recounts. "The fact that people may not know about this is because he didn't do it for fame. He did it because it felt right. That's a feeling you can't buy." Born project in Oasi Zegna Headquarters as part of the 34th edition of Interni FuoriSalone 2024 - Milan Design Week. Milan (Italy), April 17th, 2024 (Photo by Matteo Rossetti/Archivio Matteo Rossetti/Mondadori Portfolio via Getty Images) Mondadori Portfolio via Getty Images "If I wasn't in 'this' family, I'd work for Pixar,' Eduardo Aegna alludes. Continuing, 'Like their films… I want every touchpoint to engage people emotionally. Our book 'Born in Oasi' isn't about products - it's about making you feel something. As Maya Angelou said," he paraphrases, "'People won't remember what you said, but how you made them feel.'" DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES - JUNE 11: Roman Coppola and Mads Mikkelsen attend the Zegna Cruise Show 2026 at Dubai Opera on June 11, 2025 in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. (Photo by) Getty Images While other luxury brands shout for attention with logos, trending designs, and hype, Zegna whispers its uniqueness within the gamut of luxury today. "Our two stripes are low-key,' Eduardo Zegna describes of the signature design feature signaling to those initiated. 'It's like if you know, you know," he references. This "quiet luxury" ethos extends to every detail. He illustrates further with a simple question that provokes thought for our generalized consumerism. "How can I sell you a $20 cappuccino?" The chief brand storyteller answers the rhetorical, sans listing ingredients, instead crafting an indulgent experience. "The only way I'm gonna make you spend $20 on a cappuccino is if it makes you feel different," he declares. The same principle applies to Zegna's garments in that each piece is designed to evoke a feeling deeper than aesthetics. DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES - JUNE 11: A model walks the runway at the Zegna Cruise Show 2026 at Dubai Opera on June 11, 2025 in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. (Photo by) Getty Images Zegna is reinventing the future with a vision of legacy through preservation. "The future is to create clothing that will stay in your wardrobe for another hundred years," he says. Zegna's materials are 100% traceable, all woven into garments meant to endure. 'Our collection is 100% traceable. Linen from France, cashmere from Mongolia, wool from Australia, all made in Italy. Natural fibers are finite - I don't care how much you pay, if we don't have it, we can't give it to you." Zegna remains diligent on slow, luxury fashion, upholding a standard conscious of the environment that built the brand. "Scarcity isn't a marketing trick - it's a reality," Edoardo Zegna notes. "Natural fibers are finite. I don't care how much you [want to] pay. If we don't have it, we can't give it to you." A model at the Zegna Spring 2026 Show held at the Dubai Opera on June 11, 2025 in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni/WWD via Getty Images) WWD via Getty Images Zegna's greatest luxury is slowness while some brands may value speed and size of production. "The most luxurious thing in our life is time," he reflects. "I can't buy time." Zegna has created a legacy, whether over time through a meticulously crafted suit, or in its immediate, as an oasis runway show, the brand's mission remains unchanged in making people feel more than just fabric on skin, but a legacy within.
Khaleej Times
13-06-2025
- Business
- Khaleej Times
Zegna stages its first catwalk outside Milan at Dubai Opera; redefines modern menswear
'Entrepreneurial, visionary, pioneering.' Gildo Zegna, the third-generation head of his family's menswear fashion house, is waxing lyrical about the qualities of the UAE's leadership. Qualities he recognises in the 115-year legacy of Ermenegildo Zegna, founded in 1910. 'My grandfather had this, my father had it, I have it, my children have it. We share the same spirit,' he smiles. Which is why there was only one choice for the history-making move to debut the brand's first catwalk collection outside of Milan. 'There was no competition,' Gildo confides, gesturing to the expansive interior of Dubai Opera, which has been taken over and transformed into a sand-strewn catwalk venue – a grove of Ghaf trees at its centre, private shopping experience, and immersive storytelling hub for one week. From a prosaic point of view, the data backs up the choice by Zegna – both the brand and the man – to make such a bold statement here in Dubai. Zegna's Dubai Mall store is its biggest in the world. Dubai is a hub for world travel and a magnet for 'business, families and talent' as Gildo says. It's abuzz with the energy of people, particularly the young. 'It's amazing to see the average age of our customer here,' he marvels. But it's more than just numbers that drew Zegna here, to the heart of Dubai in the middle of a baking hot June. It's that shared sense of entrepreneurism. Of visionary forward-thinking that led Zegna's founder, the first Ermenegildo Zegna, to envisage the transformative power of planting a barren Italian mountainside with half a million trees, now known as Oasi Zegna. Of pivoting from pinstriped city suiting to artfully crumpled clothes designed for living not (just) working. It's these values, of elevating the essence of life, that weave together the spirit of Dubai and Zegna. Zegna's Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori says his intention for the spring/summer 2026 collection that debuted on Wednesday, is to create clothes that reflect 'a life lived intensely'. Saturated, earthy shades, worn-in silhouettes, roll-up loafers (or no shoes at all). Sartori is happy to hand the reins of his creative expression over to Zegna's customers. 'As designers, we do half of the work: the rest happens when clients interpret pieces day by day,' he says. Of those clients, an exclusive 220 have been invited to attend private appointments in Villa Zegna, within Dubai Opera, over the course of this weekend. Here, they can order pieces straight from the catwalk, select from a 70-plus piece capsule collection created exclusively for the Dubai event and not available anywhere else (for the avoidance of doubt, a chic black label stitched into the collar simply reads Exclusive Collection), and experience a reconstruction of the founder Ermenegildo Zegna's office. There's even the possibility to secure one of just 300 numbered and limited-edition Il Conte fragrances created for Villa Zegna. Watching the fashion show, I am struck by the contrast between a vision of menswear that is intuitively tailored to the way men want to move through the world, and performative womenswear shows that often have very little resonance with real life. Zegna should also be applauded for its use of models, with every decade of adult existence represented. It's rare to see middle-aged and older female models on a catwalk, aside from the odd bit of token casting. There were also women walking the Zegna runway, reflecting the handful of female clients who cannily take advantage of Zegna's smaller sizes; the brand's iconic Triple Stitch sneakers start from a European 39 and are too good to leave to the men, moulding to your foot with second-skin precision. While Zegna the man says that Zegna the brand will remain a menswear proposition – for now – the firm does have exposure to, and ambitions for, womenswear via Thom Browne and Tom Ford Fashion, which sit under the Zegna umbrella. With visions of the UK's Princess of Wales wearing a striking olive green Victoria Beckham trouser suit last month, my eye was absolutely drawn to Zegna's vegetal-dyed suiting, layered with insouciance. Indeed, were my husband one of the select few invited to Villa Zegna's exclusive fashion showroom, I would absolutely have added to his order. Featherlight leather is knitted into breathable weaves, linen is blended with paper to create fully recyclable textiles that don't break the chain of circularity, enzymes from flowers and plants rather than chemicals create the collection's rich hues. No toxic masculinity here. Shorts are designed as suit trousers only, well, short, creating a new three-piece mix-and-match tailoring option. But, alas, my other half has yet to receive his invite, so I asked Gildo Zegna what he would recommend buying. 'Oasi Lino is a must have, with a Conte jacket, and a Secondskin sneaker. It's very Mediterranean, very Italian and fun to wear,' he says. And a world away from the dark pinstripes of 1980s formal business suits. 'When you go to a sunny country, you don't want black,' Gildo agrees, smiling with the relaxed demeanour of a menswear scion who has navigated the casualisation of his core product and emerged on the other side with a fresh approach. As I leave the catwalk venue, a screen shows drone footage of the 500,000 trees of Oasi Zegna overlaid with the word 'Forest', which gradually separates out into 'For Rest'. How refreshing that in 2025 masculinity is able to take a breath, quieten, and tune into nature, from mountain to desert.
