Latest news with #abaya
Khaleej Times
11-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Khaleej Times
UAE designers redefine abaya for younger generation
The abaya has undergone a quiet yet powerful transformation. What was once a strictly traditional garment has evolved into a canvas for creativity, self-expression, and cultural dialogue, particularly in the hands of a new wave of Emirati designers who blend heritage with modern sensibilities. Today's abaya is no longer just about modesty; it's about individuality, identity, and innovation. Fatma Murshed Al Usaimi, founder of 222cult, a UAE based abaya store, sees this transformation as a natural result of cultural confidence and personal expression. She believes that as women began to seek garments that not only respected tradition but also reflected their personality, abayas started evolving in shape, color, and detail. In the summer, that freedom takes on lighter fabrics and softer tones, pastels, linens, and breezy cuts designed for comfort and versatility. As she sees the people are gravitating toward two-fabric combinations and floral accents, pieces that feel effortless yet distinct. While Fatma sees design as a reflection of identity, Leya Al Hosani, founder of Lya the Label, a UAE based abaya store, emphasizes that the abaya hasn't changed at its core, but instead has developed through design evolution. 'It used to be very simple black and plain,' she explains, 'but now we use silks, crepes, and linens, and still hold onto the value of modesty.' Light fabrics, summer colours Leya's summer collections focus on breathable, loose-fitting designs in soft, heat-friendly colors like beige, light yellow, and baby pink. She incorporates playful seasonal elements like pearls, seashells, and floral prints, making her pieces feel summery yet true to the abaya's essence. Leya also highlights how social media has shaped public understanding of the abaya, both positively and with some concern. While platforms like Instagram have helped abayas reach a global audience, she notes that the garment is occasionally misrepresented or misused by people unfamiliar with its cultural and religious significance. As a local designer, she feels a responsibility to gently educate others and preserve the cultural integrity of abaya design while staying open to new ideas. For Naamah, founder of a UAE based abaya store, says the shift is as much about perception as it is about design. She says people no longer expect abayas to be strictly black or colourful, there are different styles that have become widely accepted, so long as modesty is preserved. This season, she's seen demand spike for butter yellow, pastel shades, and bold, saturated colors, showing that wearers are embracing brightness as part of their daily wardrobes. Statement of identity Social media has played an equally vital role in Naamah's brand journey, opening up inspiration from across the region. Following abaya designers in countries like Saudi Arabia has widened her perspective on styling and innovation, allowing her to infuse those ideas into her work without losing the distinct identity of Emirati fashion. 'The abaya has transitioned significantly from a standardized, modest garment into an expressive, culturally layered form of contemporary fashion,' says Qasaied Al Tamimi, an abaya enthusiast who views its evolution as more than just aesthetic. She attributes the shift to changing societal dynamics greater female presence in public life, economic growth, and a new wave of cultural confidence among youth. For younger generations, the abaya is no longer a uniform of modesty but a statement of identity. It's styled with sneakers, bold textures, and playful accessories reflecting personality, mood, and a fusion of tradition with streetwear. Qasaied notes this shift marks a deeper renegotiation of identity. Rather than abandoning tradition, today's women reinterpret it preserving cultural relevance while embracing global fashion influences. The abaya, she says, remains rooted in heritage but now speaks in a more personal, modern language.
Arab News
03-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Arab News
From Riyadh to Rawalpindi: How Pakistani women are redefining the abaya
ISLAMABAD: In Pakistan, the abaya is undergoing a quiet but striking transformation. Long associated with uniform modesty and religious conservatism, this traditional black cloak worn by many Muslim women is now being reimagined by a new generation — one that blends cultural heritage with bold personal expression, often inspired by the glitz and fluidity of Gulf fashion capitals. Originally worn across the Arabian Peninsula, the abaya has deep roots in Bedouin dress and later became a symbol of modesty under Islamic influence. In Pakistan, it gained prominence in the 1980s and 1990s, a period marked by rising religiosity, increased migration to Gulf countries, and the influence of satellite television beaming in images of Arab fashion. For decades, black reigned supreme: functional, symbolic, and widely accepted. But today, the abaya has become more than a religious garment. It is now a medium of fashion, expression and cultural exchange. 'The Middle East has turned abayas into a fashion trend,' said Nimra Saleem, a designer who is preparing to launch a dedicated abaya brand. 'The Gulf states introduce new cuts, designs, colors, and fabrics every year. So, the cuts of my abayas, the inspiration was taken from Saudi Arabia itself, and I made such cuts that are not available in Pakistan yet.' Saleem grew up in Saudi Arabia and returned to Pakistan six years ago to pursue a degree in textile design at the National College of Arts in Rawalpindi. Her thesis focused on women migrating from the Gulf, and she explored how Arabic aesthetics could merge with Pakistani tastes. Now, the abaya brand she plans to launch will reflect this evolving sensibility, she hopes. 'Initially, abayas here were limited to plain black, but now people are using them as a form of self-expression, wearing them in vibrant colors, pairing them with colorful hijabs, and choosing fabrics like georgette and silk. Printed abayas are also becoming more popular.' To accommodate Pakistan's climate while staying true to Gulf-inspired styles, Saleem uses lightweight fabrics similar to those worn in the Middle East. 'These abayas can be worn in Pakistan too because they're very weather friendly,' she said. SOCIAL MEDIA INFLUENCE The cultural pull of the Gulf, particularly from style hubs like Dubai and Jeddah, continues to influence aesthetics across South Asia, especially among upwardly mobile urban Pakistanis. Social media has only amplified that impact, offering a steady stream of Gulf fashion influencers and modestwear labels that are increasingly global in reach. For designers like Abdul Rahman, a boutique owner in Rawalpindi with a strong social media following, the shift in tastes is undeniable. 'Over the past five years, trends have changed,' he said. 'We design abayas according to customer choice, some like party wear, some need casual wear, and some prefer normal embroidery.' Rahman's business, which once catered mostly to domestic buyers, now processes online orders from across the globe. 'We get a lot of orders from South Africa, the United Kingdom, and UAE because abayas there are costly,' he explained. His store offers options ranging from Rs3,000 ($11) to Rs20,000 ($71), making Pakistani-made garments more affordable for diaspora communities seeking modestwear. This intersection of modesty and style also resonates with many young women in Pakistan, who say the abaya is no longer seen as restrictive, but adaptable. 'The time is changing, and people are understanding that it's not about the black color,' said Areeba Faisal, a university student in Islamabad. 'It's about modesty and how you carry yourself.' While she personally favors black abayas for most occasions, she appreciates the variety now available. 'On some occasions, I prefer to wear this kind of stuff— colored and embroidered abayas,' she said. 'Islam does not mandate wearing a specific type of gown, nor does it require it to be black or free of embellishments.' Another student, Humaira Javeed, echoed that view. 'Everything evolves with time— including clothing. Abayas are no exception,' she said. She prefers light colors, such as skin tones or pastels, but still sees black as modern and versatile. For her, wearing an abaya is more cultural than religious, and there's space within tradition for creativity. 'It's not something to be stigmatized in any way,' she added. Indeed, the new wave of abaya culture in Pakistan reflects broader conversations about identity and modernity in the Muslim world. In places like Saudi Arabia and the UAE, where strict dress codes once mandated uniform black cloaks, fashion-forward abayas now come in soft hues, adorned with intricate embroidery, pleats, lace, and avant-garde silhouettes. These trends are finding fertile ground in Pakistan, where decades of exposure to Gulf culture through migration, media, and remittances have reshaped everything from food to fashion. 'Girls expressing themselves through abayas inspired me to create pieces that prove modesty can be just as fashionable and trend-aware,' said Saleem. 'You can be modest, and you can still be in trend.'
The National
30-05-2025
- Lifestyle
- The National
Falling for the abaya - an unexpected love story
This week marks one year since I moved to the UAE, undoubtedly one of the best decisions I've made for myself and my family. I love being here for many reasons, as an Arab much of the traditional life here feels familiar. But one thing I didn't see coming was my growing love affair with the abaya. Historians trace the abaya's roots back thousands of years to ancient Mesopotamia. Some historians believe it entered Saudi Arabia some 80 years ago via travellers from Iraq and Iran. Nomadic desert communities quickly embraced it, favouring its simplicity and practicality. Eventually, Bedouins brought it to urban centres, and it evolved into what we now recognise as a cornerstone of Gulf identity – part cultural symbol, part religious tradition. Growing up in London, the abaya was never part of my wardrobe. There was simply no need for it, no cultural space where it felt relevant. But here, it's found a way to be woven into my wardrobe. It's not that the abaya was foreign to me. My bibi, my Iraqi grandmother, would wear it outdoors everywhere she went. On my mother's side in Syria, I saw the abaya take on a different kind of meaning. Visitors from the Gulf brought it with them to my mother's hometown in Zabadani, a scenic mountain escape that became popular among travellers. These guests often returned year after year, forming deep friendships with local families and over time, gifting abayas to the women they grew close to. During multiple summers in Zabadani, I would admire the garment worn by the visitors and soon enough adopted by many local Syrian women too. As a child, I loved their elegance, how they shimmered with understated glamour. But I never thought they'd be for me. In all honesty, I felt too 'western' to be part of the abaya club. So what changed? First, let's talk about its practicality in my new environment. In the UAE's heat, a lightweight crepe or chiffon abaya wins hands down over a formal blazer. It shields you from the sun, dust and humidity while staying breathable and effortlessly comfortable. But more than its function, what's won me over to the abaya is how fashionable and stylish it can be – thanks mostly to how young Emiratis are styling theirs. In fact, women across the Gulf have progressively modernised the abaya. First came elaborate sequins and embroidery and, in the last decade or so, colours such as brown, navy and taupe have been introduced to everyday abayas. Recently, with a boom in women designers from the region, more avant-garde cuts have appeared; an abaya I recently bought has laser-cut scalloped ruffles and balloon-cut sleeves. Whether styled open or closed, the magic of a good abaya is in the details – the choice of fabric, the subtle embroidery and the art of accessorising. Across the Gulf, women have perfected the balance of simplicity, elegance and flair. There's a quiet sophistication in the way abayas are paired with trendy trainers, designer handbags and delicate jewellery. The result is an outfit that is steeped in tradition and practicality, but constantly evolving with trendsetting elements. I often wear an abaya to the mall, where I usually want to step out with little effort or thought about what I'm wearing. I also want to stay comfortably cool outside and warm in the chilly air-conditioned stores. The abaya ticks all the boxes and the look takes little effort, so many women focus on accessorising well. It's the art of balancing tradition with fashion. That balance is something I've always valued. I love dressing down a formal outfit and dressing up a casual one – heels with jeans, trainers with dresses. The modern abaya lends itself perfectly to that styling. I've noticed a recent trend of loafers with abayas, which transforms the look from traditional to contemporary cool. Then there's how it makes you feel. You can't slouch in an abaya. It straightens your posture and adds a certain poise. The fabric floats as you walk, catching the breeze, adding softness and femininity even to the shortest strides. I'm someone who spent most of my adolescence allergic to the idea of femininity and leant towards a tomboy aesthetic, but I've really embraced how effortlessly feminine the abaya is and how it makes me feel – always offering a touch of grandeur. Wearing the abaya has become more than just a nod to my heritage or the climate of the UAE. It's become a quiet kind of joy and comfort, a reminder that modern elegance and tradition don't have to be opposites.
