UAE designers redefine abaya for younger generation

Khaleej Times

11-07-2025

The abaya has undergone a quiet yet powerful transformation. What was once a strictly traditional garment has evolved into a canvas for creativity, self-expression, and cultural dialogue, particularly in the hands of a new wave of Emirati designers who blend heritage with modern sensibilities. Today's abaya is no longer just about modesty; it's about individuality, identity, and innovation.
Fatma Murshed Al Usaimi, founder of 222cult, a UAE based abaya store, sees this transformation as a natural result of cultural confidence and personal expression. She believes that as women began to seek garments that not only respected tradition but also reflected their personality, abayas started evolving in shape, color, and detail.
In the summer, that freedom takes on lighter fabrics and softer tones, pastels, linens, and breezy cuts designed for comfort and versatility. As she sees the people are gravitating toward two-fabric combinations and floral accents, pieces that feel effortless yet distinct.
While Fatma sees design as a reflection of identity, Leya Al Hosani, founder of Lya the Label, a UAE based abaya store, emphasizes that the abaya hasn't changed at its core, but instead has developed through design evolution. 'It used to be very simple black and plain,' she explains, 'but now we use silks, crepes, and linens, and still hold onto the value of modesty.'
Light fabrics, summer colours
Leya's summer collections focus on breathable, loose-fitting designs in soft, heat-friendly colors like beige, light yellow, and baby pink. She incorporates playful seasonal elements like pearls, seashells, and floral prints, making her pieces feel summery yet true to the abaya's essence.
Leya also highlights how social media has shaped public understanding of the abaya, both positively and with some concern. While platforms like Instagram have helped abayas reach a global audience, she notes that the garment is occasionally misrepresented or misused by people unfamiliar with its cultural and religious significance. As a local designer, she feels a responsibility to gently educate others and preserve the cultural integrity of abaya design while staying open to new ideas.
For Naamah, founder of Beloura.ae, a UAE based abaya store, says the shift is as much about perception as it is about design. She says people no longer expect abayas to be strictly black or colourful, there are different styles that have become widely accepted, so long as modesty is preserved.
This season, she's seen demand spike for butter yellow, pastel shades, and bold, saturated colors, showing that wearers are embracing brightness as part of their daily wardrobes.
Statement of identity
Social media has played an equally vital role in Naamah's brand journey, opening up inspiration from across the region. Following abaya designers in countries like Saudi Arabia has widened her perspective on styling and innovation, allowing her to infuse those ideas into her work without losing the distinct identity of Emirati fashion.
'The abaya has transitioned significantly from a standardized, modest garment into an expressive, culturally layered form of contemporary fashion,' says Qasaied Al Tamimi, an abaya enthusiast who views its evolution as more than just aesthetic.
She attributes the shift to changing societal dynamics greater female presence in public life, economic growth, and a new wave of cultural confidence among youth. For younger generations, the abaya is no longer a uniform of modesty but a statement of identity. It's styled with sneakers, bold textures, and playful accessories reflecting personality, mood, and a fusion of tradition with streetwear.
Qasaied notes this shift marks a deeper renegotiation of identity. Rather than abandoning tradition, today's women reinterpret it preserving cultural relevance while embracing global fashion influences. The abaya, she says, remains rooted in heritage but now speaks in a more personal, modern language.