Review: New Edinburgh seafood restaurant has style and substance

The Herald Scotland

19 hours ago

It's the kind of buzz that's impossible to ignore. Still, a conversation with one of Scotland's most celebrated culinary talents last month is what catapulted a visit to the capital city straight to the top of the to-do list.
"Barry Fish is one of the newest restaurants to open in Leith,' Martin Wishart pointed out while discussing the neighbourhood for our Edinburgh series in June.
"Barry Bryson has got a different style, which is great, and I think he will do extremely well."
(Read more: Why are there so many Michelin Star restaurants in Leith?)
When a chef who has held on to his Michelin Star for over two decades offers a restaurant recommendation, you follow it up.
So here we are, overlooking The Shore from a room drenched in calming hues of olive green and gentle yellow while the weather bounces between glorious sunshine and vicious rain outside.
With interiors designed by Bryson's husband, Robin, and friend, Kay Bennet, the space feels intimate and relaxed, yet meticulously stylish. I'd wager it's at its best right now, as the natural light of a long summer evening floods through large windows.
Chef Bryson himself is very present at his new venture, first appearing through a large service hatch that connects his open-plan workspace to the restaurant floor, and later shuttling plates of food from the kitchen to tables.
After 14 years of operating as an 'international specialist events chef' (with a star-studded client list including Nigel Slater and Tracy Emin, no less), it's touching to see him so utterly at ease in his own restaurant. You get the sense that this has been a long time coming.
With that in mind, here's how the menu works.
Read more reviews from Sarah Campbell:
Had we arrived before 3 pm, the 'Low-Tide' offering would have consisted of small plates like smoked haddock kedgeree or Eyemouth crab focaccia.
Between 4.30pm and 6.30pm, this would have transitioned into 'Big Snacks' of octopus and whipped feta or smoked aubergine with goat's curd and heather honey.
It's now Dinner time, so the Big Snacks are served as starters alongside a main menu of just five dishes.
Got it? Good. I promise it's a lot simpler than it sounds.
Pictured: A trio of 'Big Snacks' from Barry Fish (Image: Newsquest)
Shortly after a long-necked bottle of the house white (Picpoul de Pinet -£35) is cracked open, there's an amuse-bouche of smoked fish on a soft homemade blini, pink in colour. It's refined, but not fussy. A morsel of goodness that feels like a warm welcome from the chef and his team (also made up of Robbie Johnstone and Tom Pethick) as the rest of the order is prepared.
A trio of starters begins with small slabs of seabass ceviche (£13) in light orange juice, topped with paper-thin shreds of pickled fennel and red onion. A streak of fragrant cardamom runs through the dish, adding intrigue and further livening up the zesty citrus.
Described on social media as 'where it all began', the trout pastrami (£14) appears to be something of a signature for Bryson, with a thick crust of gnarly cracked black pepper and coriander seeds that contrasts against the smooth, almost tacky texture of cured fish.
Barry Fish Sea Trout Pastrami – aioli, capers, dried grapes (Image: Newsquest)
If this really is where it all started, then what a strong foundation to build on.
There's a slight sweetness from a treacle glaze and a smokiness penetrating the delicate slices of trout. A scattering of shrivelled dried grapes makes for an extraordinary addition to the plate. I pierce one then skewer a slice of fish before dragging the whole lot through a slick of garlicky aioli, repeating the process until there's little left.
Straying from the fish-led theme of the evening, we've chosen a wild card of pork confit croquettes (£11) out of sheer curiosity. Served in a pair, there's a hefty amount of tender, shredded meat hidden beneath a golden crust. Immensely enjoyable, but more of a safe bet for anyone not as enamoured by fruits of the sea. Unsurprisingly, there's a lot more going on in those fish starters.
Onto the 'Mother Dish'.
Pictured: Shelled Half Lobster – smoked salmon and lobster claw agnolotti, and brown butter sauce described by Bryson as the 'mother dish' (Image: Newsquest)
You'd be forgiven for assuming the shelled half lobster would be the star attraction of this main course. But more compelling are the parcels of agnolotti below, stuffed with smoked salmon and lobster claw. Finished with liberal amounts of brown butter sauce, it's an elegant affair with real comfort food credentials (£35).
The whole bream (£24) is quite something, tiny teeth still in its head and eyeballs glazed over during cooking, but a lack of squeamishness is instantly rewarded with the freshest of white fish sourced from Welch in Newhaven, which melts into a luxuriously silky chicken butter with shrimp.
Pictured: Whole bream with shrimp and chicken butter (Image: Newsquest)
Like the restaurant space itself, this food feels effortless and highly stylised all at once. No mean feat to pull off, but the team has really nailed it.
Elsewhere, a side of deep-fried potatoes (£6) could have been crisped up just a touch more. As it stands, the slices are too dense to soak up any of the precious sauces and too limp for scooping, but salty and topped with plenty of leafy parsley and tarragon, they work well enough as a standalone.
Pictured: Leith Lyonnaise Potatoes – deep fried new potatoes, onions, parsley (Image: Newsquest)
The sun is slowly setting by the time we've reached puddings, choosing from a dessert section of just three options.
There's been no holding back with the marmalade ice cream (£8). Don't expect a gentle nudge of orange; the contents of this small ramekin pack a mega bittersweet punch from homemade preserve beneath a layer of creme Brulée-style caramelised sugar that's ready to be cracked.
Pictured: Chocolate caramel and marmalade ice cream (Image: Newsquest)
The chocolate caramel (£11) is gentler on the palate. A two-toned dome that's mousse-like in texture and light enough to justify its place on the menu after generous main course portions. If you're sharing, do try to swipe the chocolate button from the top before your companion notices.
"There is no formality at Barry Fish, other than the love and respect that we have for what we do," Bryson said upon opening earlier this year.
"We are not a special occasion restaurant, but we do want to be a special restaurant."
In many ways, after finally having my chance to dine at his first independent venue, I can truly appreciate what he means by that.
Thanks again for the tip, Martin.
Menu: A menu which evolves throughout the day is interesting, but does mean there were some bits like the crab focaccia that I was sad to miss out on. 4/5
Service: A small mix up with our mains was swiftly rectified, and the front-of-house team seemed confident yet comfortable in their roles. 4/5
Atmosphere: The food tastes even better thanks to the relaxed setting and welcoming vibes. Upon booking for dinner, we were informed that the table was ours for the night, so there was no fretting over finishing up before the next sitting. 4/5
Price:. For such high-quality produce, the prices here seem very reasonable, in particular the whole fish for £24. 4/5
Food: Gorgeous dishes that are refined yet unpretentious, I really enjoy Bryson's style. 8/10
Total: 24/30
Barry Fish is located at 62 Shore in Leith, Edinburgh.