Beyond Prada's Kolhapuri chappals: How India has ‘inspired' Western fashion designers

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2 days ago

International runways at the ongoing men's fashion week have India's attention. Think Prada's now infamous 'toe ring sandals', which are actually nothing but Kolhapuri chappals, or Louis Vuitton's collection, featuring a 'snakes and ladders' inspired runway, designed by architect Bijoy Jain. A look at archives shows that this isn't just it; the Indian style has immeasurable influence on fashion across the world read more
India — the country and its fashion — is having an 'it' moment at the ongoing men's fashion week. Both fashion brands — Louis Vuitton and Prada — served up some Indian high fashion, though the latter's choice is receiving quite a lot of hate on social media.
On Tuesday, the Paris Fashion Week kicked off with Louis Vuitton's Men's SS26 show that put India on the map and on its runway, quite literally. And days before this, Prada showcased its Men's Spring Summer 2026 collection with models walking down the runway in what none other than India's iconic Kolhapuri chappals.
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While Louis Vuitton has been praised for its show, Prada has received brickbats for cultural appropriation and not giving credit where it's due. But many fashion experts note that India has always served as a trove of inspiration to designers in the West (who can forget Jean Paul Gaultier and the 'nath' moment he served in 2017.
Kolhapuris walk the Prada runway
It seems Prada got the memo on India being the flavour of the season. The design house sent model after model down the runway at Deposito at Fondazione Prada, wearing flat, T-strap leather sandals that closely resembled Kolhapuri chappals.
The sandals, colloquially called 'toe ring sandals,' were styled without fanfare: worn with black dress socks, paired with tunic-length shirting or left bare under cotton poplins and raffia flowerpot hats.
However, rather than the clothes getting people to talk, it was the footwear that stood out, especially to those already familiar with the silhouette. Social media lit up with side-by-side comparisons of the runway sandals and their Indian counterpart.
A model in what the brand called 'toe ring sandals, but is actually the Kolhapur chappal at Prada Spring-Summer 2026 menswear collection during the Milan Fashion Week in Milan. Reuters
For those who are unaware, Prada's 'toe ring sandals' or better known as Kolhapuri chappals aren't just footwear, they're tradition stitched in leather. Originally crafted by skilled cobblers in the Kolhapur region, they gained fame in the 18th Century when Maratha King Shahu Maharaj himself helped popularise them, elevating their status beyond the local bazaar.
Fashion maven Anaita Shroff Adajania shared a post of the models on the runway on her social media page, writing, 'A pair of good old Kolhapuri chappals.'
Then came outspoken fashion critic Diet Sabya. On its Instagram page, it shared a post, noting, 'Not to be that nagging auntie, but are we ready for a Prada Kolhapuri that'll cost us £1,000 a pair? And that'll be 'Fashion' because Europeans will suddenly start wearing it. Quite interesting if you think about it'.
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Soon, the issue snowballed; there were tonnes of posts all across social media, slamming Prada for not giving credit to India for the humble footwear option. But as author Shobhaa De noted in an NDTV interview, 'It's all fine in fashion, love, and war.'
Louis Vuitton plays 'Snakes and Ladders' with India
Pharrell Williams , who serves as the creative director of Louis Vuitton, served up India to the world in his spring-summer 2026 collection shown outdoors on Tuesday in front of the Pompidou Centre in Paris.
Models sashayed the ramp dressed up in everything from loose pleated pants to leather jackets all with an Indian twist. As Williams told reporters backstage during the show, 'You won't see any tunics or anything like that. What we were inspired by from India were the colours. You'll see turmeric in the line. You'll see cinnamon. You'll see 'coffee indigo' denim.'
A model presents a creation by designer and musician Pharrell Williams as part of his Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 collection show for fashion house Louis Vuitton during Men's Fashion Week in Paris, France. One can't help but notice the Indian influences in Williams' collection. Reuters
And even the Louis Vuitton trunks that were rolled down the runway had an Indian flavour to it, resplendent with Indian motifs and designs — some shimmered with crystals, while others bore motifs of elephants and palm trees.
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But the pièce de résistance at the Louis Vuitton show was the runway itself. Models and spectators became players on a colossal, life-size Snakes and Ladders board sprawling across an impressive 8,858-square-feet grid with vivid aqua and neon pink serpents slithering over a vast geometric grid of numbered platforms in warm, earthy tones.
This was courtesy Indian architect Bijoy Jain of Studio Mumbai, who took inspiration from the ancient Indian board game.
Jean Paul Gaultier's love for India
But way before Prada or Louis Vuitton amalgamated Indian designs into their own, Jean Paul Gaultier did it in 2017 when he had his models walk down the runway during the Fall/Winter show in saree-inspired outfits and the Indian nosepin, known as the nath.
Is that a sari? Is that a nosepin? A model presents a creation by French designer Jean Paul Gaultier as part of his Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2017/2018 collection in Paris, France. File image/Reuters
The nath is rooted in Indian history — maharajas often wore it in the past, while many Indian women still wear it even today. But that's not all. In 2012, he put turbaned male models on the ramp, and the following year, showcased a collection that took cues from Rajasthan, and Indian 'gypsy brides'.
Chanel combines India's glamour with Paris
And speaking of India, no one did it better than Chanel in 2011 for its pre-fall collection, titled Paris–Bombay. Iconic designer Karl Lagerfeld had transformed the Grand Palais into a lavish Indian palace and models walked down the runway sari-like garments, jewelled headpieces, baggy pants, and embellished sandals with lots of gold detailing.
Models present outfits by fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld during the Chanel Metiers d'Art Pre-Fall collection show, entitled 'Paris-Bombay' on December 6, 2011 in Paris. Doesn't it scream India in every which way? File image/AFP
Speaking of his collection, Lagerfeld said, 'The idea of Paris-Bombay came to me from many visions – the grand palaces, the Maharaja's dress, India's connection with England. Yet it's a concept of India. More Chanel than India. The Parisian version of an India that doesn't exist.'
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It was a fantastical moment, steeped in maximalism and decadence. But many at the time had criticised it too, calling it cultural appropriation.
Galliano's saree, not sorry moment
If there's one garment that is Indian as Indian can be — it's the saree, that nine yards of fabric draped in the most amazing manner. And there have been many designers across the world who have tried to replicate or reimagine it (remember Alia Bhatt at the Cannes Film Festival this year in Gucci's version of the garment).
But long before Gucci, British fashion designer John Galliano for his Spring 2003 collection for Dior showcased sari-style wraps, cholis, and lehenga-inspired skirts.
A model for British designer John Galliano presents this creation as part of his ready-to-wear 2003 spring-summer collection in Paris October 6, 2002. File image/Reuters
Indian fever runs high in the West
But beyond Indian garments, Indian fabrics and accessories have long been a go-to option for Western designers. Think ikat, the charming Madras checks, the comfortable linen and colourful bandhani. There's also the beautiful and decadent golden embroidery known as zardozi and the reflective mirrorwork textile — all of these have been used by Western designers and fashion houses in their creations.
It's clear that India was, is and will continue to inspire the West when it comes to fashion.
With inputs from agencies