The Story Behind Doechii's Vivienne Westwood Glastonbury Looks
Since emerging on the scene, Doechii has become as well known for her eclectic style as her viral hits—from preppy Thom Browne at the Grammys to cool-girl Miu Miu at the BET Awards. But for the rapper and singer's debut Glastonbury appearance, which saw her headlining the West Holts stage on Saturday night, there was only one designer that fit the bill: Vivienne Westwood.
'It's this iconic British festival, so we really wanted to use an iconic British brand,' Doechii's Australian-born stylist Sam Woolf tells Vogue over the phone from Bristol ('I don't know where that is!'), a day before the performance. 'We both were like, Vivienne Westwood is a no brainer – she's always been a brand that [Doechii's] consistently loved.'
Doechii wore a trio of Vivienne Westwood looks for her Glastonbury performance.For the opening look, the pair—who 'talk every day'—wanted to convey the idea of 'Doechii's School Of Hip-Hop,' the theme of her Glastonbury set, with the singer arriving on stage with her fellow classmates (ie her backing dancers, also dressed in Vivienne Westwood), ready for class. 'Essentially, Doechii is attending the school of hip-hop, and we've done that in a preppy, fun and sexy way; a very camp Vivienne Westwood way,' Woolf says of the singer's tartan miniskirt, featuring a tutu bustle, and cropped shirt. 'It's about individuality; expressing yourself—every dancer is in a different look.'
Of course, it wouldn't be Glastonbury without an outfit change or two, with Doechii's second look arguably being the most iconic of them all: a remake of Kate Moss's striped micro mini from Vivienne Westwood's spring 1994 Café Society collection, teamed with a bralette featuring the VW orb as nipple pasties (Moss famously went topless on the runway). 'It doesn't do much,' laughs Woolf of the lack of bust support offered by the piece. 'We wanted to lean into this sexy office siren girl.'
Kate Moss walking for Vivienne Westwood's spring/summer 1994 collection.
Getty Images
Naomi Campbell on Westwood's spring/summer 1994 runway.
Condé Nast Archive
Another '90s super provided the inspiration for the final look: Naomi Campbell, and specifically the striped top and matching pants that she also wore on the spring 1994 runway. 'We really wanted to do something cool and preppy but still sexy,' Woolf explains of the Easter egg offered up to fashion fans. 'It's not like 'Oh, that's the iconic look Naomi wore', it's more like, if you know Vivienne Westwood and the history you'd know it.'
What else could be more fitting for Doechii's Worthy Farm debut than paying tribute to two of the UK's most famous fashion exports? 'We thought it was the perfect time to reference Kate and Naomi,' Woolf says. 'Obviously, Kate is such a reference and style icon [at] Glastonbury.' Who knows, maybe the super was even watching on from the VIP area, 30 years after she famous took to the runway, licking a Magnum.
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