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Mango chicken schnitzel and Balinese pork rolls: Gurdeep Loyal's recipes for mango chutney

Mango chicken schnitzel and Balinese pork rolls: Gurdeep Loyal's recipes for mango chutney

The Guardian5 days ago

A cleverly curated pantry is a home cook's best friend, and holds within it the power to take your daily meals in countless different directions at the mere twist of a lid. The simple truth is that all you really need to create flavourful food at home is a capsule of flavourful pantry ingredients. This, for me, includes everyday staples such as toasted sesame oil, dark maple syrup and peanut butter, and bold taste-boosters such as tamarind, pecorino romano and gochujang. Another ingredient I turn to repeatedly is mango chutney, a beloved staple at the Punjabi table of my childhood upbringing in Leicester. Today, I use it in infinite different ways to enliven whatever I happen to be cooking, leaning into its characteristics as a sticky and vinegary, bustlingly tropical, flamboyantly spiced, sweet and mellow flavour hero. These recipes show you just a few ways that mango chutney, or indeed any ingredient in a thoughtfully stocked pantry, can be used when you liberate yourself to play with ingredients with creative joy.
Schnitzel and mushy peas both have a nostalgic 1970s Fanny Cradock-meets-Wimpy-diner charm that I'm always drawn to – they're also crying out for the addition of pineapple rings, piped green mashed potato and silver jugs of parsley sauce on the side. My flavour-elevated take on these culinary relics uses mango chutney to add tropical pizzaz to the chicken, and lime leaves to bring south-east Asian fragrance to the peas.
Prep 10 min
Marinate 30 min+
Cook 20 min
Serves 2
For the schnitzels
5 tbsp mango chutney, plus extra to serve
3 fat garlic cloves, peeled
1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
2 tbsp apple cider vinegar
Fine sea salt and black pepper
2 large boneless and skinless chicken breasts (2 x 250g)
Cornflour, for dredging
1 large egg, beaten
60g
panko breadcrumbs
1 tbsp nigella seeds
2 tbsp sesame seeds
Sunflower or vegetable oil, for frying
Lemon wedges, to serve
For the peas
400g frozen peas
12–14 fresh makrut lime leaves
About 30 fresh mint leaves
Juice and finely grated zest of 1 small lemon
20g butter
A splash of olive oil, for frying
2 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped
Put the chutney, garlic, Worcestershire sauce, vinegar, and a teaspoon each of salt and ground black pepper in a small blender and whizz to a fine paste.
Put one chicken breast between two sheets of baking paper, then gently flatten it with a rolling pin into a 3-4mm-thin steak – don't bash hard, though, or the meat will tear. Repeat with the other breast. Put the flattened breasts in a large bowl, smother in the mango chutney paste, and leave to marinate for at least 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, cook the peas in a pan of boiling salted water for three minutes, then drain and set aside. In a small blender, whizz the lime leaves, mint, lemon juice and a teaspoon of zest to a very fine paste.
Melt the butter and a splash of oil in a pan over a medium heat, then add the green paste and fry, stirring, for two minutes. Add the spring onions, cook for a minute, then add the peas and a teaspoon of salt, and cook for a minute more. Mash the pea mix with a potato masher until rough and chunky (or blend to a puree), and keep warm while you cook the chicken.
Put the cornflour in one large bowl, the egg in another and the breadcrumbs, nigella seeds and sesame seeds in a third bowl. Dredge one schnitzel in the cornflour, flipping it to coat all over, leave for 30 seconds, then dredge again so it's completely covered. Shake off any excess cornflour, dip into the egg, and then into the breadcrumb mix so it's coated liberally. Repeat with the second schnitzel.
Put 2cm oil in a deep-sided frying pan on a medium heat (if you have a probe, you want it to reach 165C). Fry the schnitzels one at a time for six or seven minutes, turning occasionally, until crunchy and golden brown on the outside and cooked through.
Serve with the smashed peas, lemon wedges and extra mango chutney on the side.
After a week of yoga, juicing and chanting at a Balinese jungle retreat in Ubud a few years back, I made the executive decision to undo all of that 'wellness' by booking into the Slow in Canggu. It is without doubt one of the most chic, stylish and cosmopolitan places I've ever stayed, with beautiful boho interiors, a tropical cocktail list of dreams and a Balinese-leaning, culture-crossing menu that read like poetry. These spiced pork crispy rolls are inspired by my stay there, with the mango chutney, lemongrass, fish sauce, peanuts and lime creating flavour acrobatics on the palate. Forget the yoga: cooking these is my kind of meditation.
Prep 15 min
Cook 45 min
Makes 10 large or 20 mini rolls
8 makrut lime leaves, stalks removed
20g lemongrass, roughly chopped
10g knob of fresh ginger, roughly chopped
6 garlic cloves, peeled
1 tbsp fish sauce
20g roasted peanuts
1 tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
1 tsp chilli flakes
3 tbsp vegetable oil
, plus extra for brushing
1 large red onion, peeled and finely diced
500g pork mince (at least 5% fat)
100g mango chutney
Juice and finely grated zest of 2 limes
Fine sea salt
10 sheets filo pastry
Nigella seeds, to finish
In a blender, whizz the lime leaves, lemongrass, ginger, garlic, fish sauce, peanuts, cinnamon, nutmeg, chilli flakes and a splash of water to a very fine paste.
Put the oil in a large pan on a medium heat, then fry the onion for five to six minutes, until softened. Add the pork and fry, stirring, for 10–12 minutes, until most of the moisture has evaporated and the meat is starting to brown. Add the lime leaf paste, cook for three minutes, then add the chutney and cook for another three minutes.
Stir through the lime juice, a teaspoon of lime zest and a teaspoon and a half of salt, then take off the heat and leave to cool to room temperature.
Heat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7. Lay a sheet of filo on a board, then cut it in half. Spread two heaped tablespoons of the cooled mince mix in a thick line down one side of one half sheet, then fold over the sides and roll up into a cigar. Brush the join with oil to seal, then place seam side down on a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining pastry and filling. Brush the tops liberally with oil, then sprinkle over the nigella seeds.
Bake for 14–16 minutes, until crisp on the outside and piping hot in the middle, then serve with drinks or as a starter, perhaps with dips or chilli sauce.
These recipes are edited extracts from Flavour Heroes: 15 Modern Pantry Ingredients to Amplify Your Cooking, by Gurdeep Loyal, published last week by Quadrille at £27. To order a copy for £24.30, go to guardianbookshop.com

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Worcester councillors approve plans for £150k pump track
Worcester councillors approve plans for £150k pump track

BBC News

time5 days ago

  • BBC News

Worcester councillors approve plans for £150k pump track

Plans to build a new £150,000 pump cycling track in Worcester have been approved by City Council said the track, at Perdiswell Park, would be a "destination" facility for the city and would feature two separate tracks, one for experienced riders and another for children under popularity of the first track, in Battenhall Park, had prompted the authority to draw up the plans for a second, larger of Worcester City Council's place and economic development committee approved plans for the scheme on Monday. Pump tracks, which feature small bumps and jumps, are made up of hills and banked turns and are designed to be ridden by cyclists who generate momentum by using up and down movements, instead of pedaling or were told that £20,000 of community funding from housing developers would be used to help fund the Perdiswell Riaz, the authority's deputy leader, said the council was "doing a lot" to address a historical lack of investment in play facilities across Elena Round added lessons also needed to be learnt from the first pump track, which opened in Battenhall in November, and that the Perdiswell track should have been built said due to the smaller facility being "massively oversubscribed," the community in the St Peter's area of the city had been exposed to "no end of issues" including anti-social behaviour, litter and drugs."A larger pump track in a central location, co-located with other leisure facilities and car parking would have had relatively minor issues compared to what we're facing in St Peter's," she explained. This news was gathered by the Local Democracy Reporting Service, which covers councils and other public service organisations. Follow BBC Hereford & Worcester on BBC Sounds, Facebook, X and Instagram.

Mango chicken schnitzel and Balinese pork rolls: Gurdeep Loyal's recipes for mango chutney
Mango chicken schnitzel and Balinese pork rolls: Gurdeep Loyal's recipes for mango chutney

The Guardian

time5 days ago

  • The Guardian

Mango chicken schnitzel and Balinese pork rolls: Gurdeep Loyal's recipes for mango chutney

A cleverly curated pantry is a home cook's best friend, and holds within it the power to take your daily meals in countless different directions at the mere twist of a lid. The simple truth is that all you really need to create flavourful food at home is a capsule of flavourful pantry ingredients. This, for me, includes everyday staples such as toasted sesame oil, dark maple syrup and peanut butter, and bold taste-boosters such as tamarind, pecorino romano and gochujang. Another ingredient I turn to repeatedly is mango chutney, a beloved staple at the Punjabi table of my childhood upbringing in Leicester. Today, I use it in infinite different ways to enliven whatever I happen to be cooking, leaning into its characteristics as a sticky and vinegary, bustlingly tropical, flamboyantly spiced, sweet and mellow flavour hero. These recipes show you just a few ways that mango chutney, or indeed any ingredient in a thoughtfully stocked pantry, can be used when you liberate yourself to play with ingredients with creative joy. Schnitzel and mushy peas both have a nostalgic 1970s Fanny Cradock-meets-Wimpy-diner charm that I'm always drawn to – they're also crying out for the addition of pineapple rings, piped green mashed potato and silver jugs of parsley sauce on the side. My flavour-elevated take on these culinary relics uses mango chutney to add tropical pizzaz to the chicken, and lime leaves to bring south-east Asian fragrance to the peas. Prep 10 min Marinate 30 min+ Cook 20 min Serves 2 For the schnitzels 5 tbsp mango chutney, plus extra to serve 3 fat garlic cloves, peeled 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar Fine sea salt and black pepper 2 large boneless and skinless chicken breasts (2 x 250g) Cornflour, for dredging 1 large egg, beaten 60g panko breadcrumbs 1 tbsp nigella seeds 2 tbsp sesame seeds Sunflower or vegetable oil, for frying Lemon wedges, to serve For the peas 400g frozen peas 12–14 fresh makrut lime leaves About 30 fresh mint leaves Juice and finely grated zest of 1 small lemon 20g butter A splash of olive oil, for frying 2 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped Put the chutney, garlic, Worcestershire sauce, vinegar, and a teaspoon each of salt and ground black pepper in a small blender and whizz to a fine paste. Put one chicken breast between two sheets of baking paper, then gently flatten it with a rolling pin into a 3-4mm-thin steak – don't bash hard, though, or the meat will tear. Repeat with the other breast. Put the flattened breasts in a large bowl, smother in the mango chutney paste, and leave to marinate for at least 30 minutes. Meanwhile, cook the peas in a pan of boiling salted water for three minutes, then drain and set aside. In a small blender, whizz the lime leaves, mint, lemon juice and a teaspoon of zest to a very fine paste. Melt the butter and a splash of oil in a pan over a medium heat, then add the green paste and fry, stirring, for two minutes. Add the spring onions, cook for a minute, then add the peas and a teaspoon of salt, and cook for a minute more. Mash the pea mix with a potato masher until rough and chunky (or blend to a puree), and keep warm while you cook the chicken. Put the cornflour in one large bowl, the egg in another and the breadcrumbs, nigella seeds and sesame seeds in a third bowl. Dredge one schnitzel in the cornflour, flipping it to coat all over, leave for 30 seconds, then dredge again so it's completely covered. Shake off any excess cornflour, dip into the egg, and then into the breadcrumb mix so it's coated liberally. Repeat with the second schnitzel. Put 2cm oil in a deep-sided frying pan on a medium heat (if you have a probe, you want it to reach 165C). Fry the schnitzels one at a time for six or seven minutes, turning occasionally, until crunchy and golden brown on the outside and cooked through. Serve with the smashed peas, lemon wedges and extra mango chutney on the side. After a week of yoga, juicing and chanting at a Balinese jungle retreat in Ubud a few years back, I made the executive decision to undo all of that 'wellness' by booking into the Slow in Canggu. It is without doubt one of the most chic, stylish and cosmopolitan places I've ever stayed, with beautiful boho interiors, a tropical cocktail list of dreams and a Balinese-leaning, culture-crossing menu that read like poetry. These spiced pork crispy rolls are inspired by my stay there, with the mango chutney, lemongrass, fish sauce, peanuts and lime creating flavour acrobatics on the palate. Forget the yoga: cooking these is my kind of meditation. Prep 15 min Cook 45 min Makes 10 large or 20 mini rolls 8 makrut lime leaves, stalks removed 20g lemongrass, roughly chopped 10g knob of fresh ginger, roughly chopped 6 garlic cloves, peeled 1 tbsp fish sauce 20g roasted peanuts 1 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg 1 tsp chilli flakes 3 tbsp vegetable oil , plus extra for brushing 1 large red onion, peeled and finely diced 500g pork mince (at least 5% fat) 100g mango chutney Juice and finely grated zest of 2 limes Fine sea salt 10 sheets filo pastry Nigella seeds, to finish In a blender, whizz the lime leaves, lemongrass, ginger, garlic, fish sauce, peanuts, cinnamon, nutmeg, chilli flakes and a splash of water to a very fine paste. Put the oil in a large pan on a medium heat, then fry the onion for five to six minutes, until softened. Add the pork and fry, stirring, for 10–12 minutes, until most of the moisture has evaporated and the meat is starting to brown. Add the lime leaf paste, cook for three minutes, then add the chutney and cook for another three minutes. Stir through the lime juice, a teaspoon of lime zest and a teaspoon and a half of salt, then take off the heat and leave to cool to room temperature. Heat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7. Lay a sheet of filo on a board, then cut it in half. Spread two heaped tablespoons of the cooled mince mix in a thick line down one side of one half sheet, then fold over the sides and roll up into a cigar. Brush the join with oil to seal, then place seam side down on a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining pastry and filling. Brush the tops liberally with oil, then sprinkle over the nigella seeds. Bake for 14–16 minutes, until crisp on the outside and piping hot in the middle, then serve with drinks or as a starter, perhaps with dips or chilli sauce. These recipes are edited extracts from Flavour Heroes: 15 Modern Pantry Ingredients to Amplify Your Cooking, by Gurdeep Loyal, published last week by Quadrille at £27. To order a copy for £24.30, go to

‘Jeremy Clarkson is telling people the truth about abattoirs – I applaud him'
‘Jeremy Clarkson is telling people the truth about abattoirs – I applaud him'

Telegraph

time20-06-2025

  • Telegraph

‘Jeremy Clarkson is telling people the truth about abattoirs – I applaud him'

Slaughterman David Partridge can't answer when I ask what his abattoir smells like. 'I can't smell anything,' he explains, suggesting, slightly irritably, that once I get in there, I should tell him. He gives short shrift. He started hosing blood and skinning carcasses aged nine, working here in his teens. The business was first opened by his grandfather Frederick in 1880, then run by his father Charles, although older generations ran another abattoir with a butcher's shop on the nearby high street. So the smell to him is simply undetectable; it's the air he has always breathed, it's part of him – and he doesn't have much patience with newcomers who don't understand that. I've asked because smell is what you brace for, perhaps more than the sight of carcasses, when you walk through the plastic strip curtains into the closed world of a slaughterhouse for the first time. Partridge, 72, has allowed The Telegraph to visit his, adjoining his farm in Bromsgrove, Worcestershire, on a Thursday morning about half an hour after the killing of a 300kg ('dead weight') 18-month-old bullock, and an hour after the killing of eight lambs, which now all sway on hooks, their heads and organs removed. Yet the odour is not the metallic tang of flesh and blood I had expected. It is something more earthy, a faintly warm, manure-like smell of animal. Partridge seems happy that I'm surprised. He is a prickly man, but proud; pride is broadcast unspoken by the crisp, short-sleeved shirt and blue and yellow striped tie under his blue overalls, and his neatly combed grey curls. He brings out photographs of his ancestors, including grandfather Frederick at his gas lamp-lit butcher's shop in the late 19th century. 'It was taken to show off,' Partridge chuckles. 'Look at the fat,' he says, pointing excitedly to the bounty of carcasses. Partridge, whose own son, Andrew, 48, with his dad's blue eyes and quick smile, now runs their butcher's shop, Partridge CE & Son, down the road, nods that he feels the hefty legacy of all this sepia. The expectation to uphold 'the reputation we have always had for good quality'. Now it is at risk of being lost forever. Despite continuing to toil from 6am to 6pm as his dad did, as his grandfather did, at risk of regular injury – he has broken his ribs twice when livestock kicked out – Partridge is continually in his overdraft, assailed by a storm of rising costs. These shoot from all directions: rising utility bills and official Food Standards Agency (FSA) vet and inspector fees; bureaucracy; and chancellor Rachel Reeves' national insurance employer contribution and minimum wage hikes. These come on top of the discontinuation of a small abattoir fund introduced by the last government for capital grants, and an FSA discount scheme for vets' fees for small abattoirs hanging in the balance. A reluctant young workforce also adds to the difficulties; the average age of a slaughterman (slaughterwomen do seem rare) is in the 60s. This is by no means Partridge's individual battle. He's actually a survivor, one of fewer and fewer small abattoirs in Britain (classified as processing under 5,000 animals annually). It has been reported that the number of small abattoirs in England fell from 64 in 2019 to just 49 in 2023, with five closing in 2024. A 2022 FSA report claimed small abattoirs closing at the rate of 10 per cent per year – set to vanish completely by 2030. Partridge says there used to be seven local to him – now he's alone. It took Jeremy Clarkson to bring the issue to public attention in the latest series of Clarkson's Farm. His own local abattoir, Long Compton in Shipston-On-Stour, Warwickshire, just 13 miles from his farm, has closed. This leaves him to travel further to get his livestock slaughtered at greater cost and stress to the animals. He has been forced to liftshare to make it viable. Once there, large abattoirs do not usually accept rare breeds. 'The legislation from the Government makes it virtually impossible to run an abattoir,' a flummoxed Clarkson complained. Partridge is uncharacteristically exuberant when it comes to Clarkson. 'Jeremy is telling people what the truth is and I'm all for it,' he says. ' Countryfile just talks about silly birds… [but] people listen to Jeremy, I applaud him. He tells it as it is.' Another of Clarkson's neighbours, first generation farmer John Weaver, 38, now travels 40 miles to use Partridge's abattoir after the closure of Long Compton. Partridge says some 200 farmers come to him now from as far afield as Ludlow, and he averages the slaughter of 60 to 70 animals a week. Weaver, who has diversified to sell direct from his farm shop, lobbied a collection of local shareholders – including, he says, a vegetarian – to save Long Compton (to no avail, the owner sold elsewhere). He is now exploring further fundraising to try and build a new one. Clarkson came to his first meeting. 'Jeremy's concerns were the same as everyone else, of welfare and viability,' he says. 'He was one of us in the room… it's adding masses of food miles on to his production. 'Everyone is being pushed further away, where is that going to stop? If we don't do something now it will be too late.' He's eloquent, but you can hear the panic. 'You stack up time, mileage, fuel, the margins selling meat directly from your farm are shrinking considerably,' he says. 'We are trying to do anything to secure ourselves, we would have to rethink big style (if the farm shop closed).' David Bean of The Countryside Alliance is equally passionate. He explains that for farmers, selling meat locally is 'one of the ways they're adapting to a harsh business environment to survive'. He says: 'Every time a small abattoir closes, local farmers have to travel further to bring their animals to slaughter and the provenance of their products frays a little more. Many of us are rightly enthusiastic about buying local… but abattoirs are essential to our ability to do that.' Weaver's hope to 'buck the trend' is admirable, but he says his group badly needs the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA) to support them financially. 'They have acknowledged there is an issue and they are willing to assist but they haven't got any funding. It is essential [they offer support],' he says. DEFRA declined to comment specifically. It did acknowledge the closure of the small abattoir fund last September but gave no reason, only agreeing: 'small abattoirs provide a competitive route to market for producers of rare and native breeds and we're committed to working with the meat processing sector in tackling the challenges they face', while reiterating a £5 billion investment in the farming sector. David Barton, the livestock board chairman of the National Farmers Union (NFU) is clear. 'It is important DEFRA recognises their role in the rural economy and ensures the right support and investment is available. As a start, we'd like to see a review into the way official controls are applied, as well as maintaining the discount scheme for regulatory checks for small and medium sized abattoirs.' Back at his abattoir, Partridge badly needs the help. His electricity bill is around £1,200 a month. The fridges are vast, you can feel the cold through the 12ft slate-grey door. Water, of which he uses some 140,000 litres a month (largely to hose down), is £500 to £600 a month. The cost of disposing of waste – such as carcass heads – is around £200 a week. He says they have all risen. Fees for FSA vets and meat hygiene inspectors (who must be present for killings) have increased too, by nearly 18 per cent for vets and over 11 per cent for inspectors. Small abattoirs are charged the same as large operations. 'It costs £600 for four days,' says Partridge. He points out a silent man in a white coat in the slaughterhouse inspecting the carcasses in the hanging room under the deafening whirr of the chillers. 'He's checking the kidneys for infection,' says Partridge, as the vet stamps them. The FSA doesn't shy from these upped costs. Dr James Cooper, the deputy director of Food Policy says: 'While we understand concerns about rising charges, the reality of global vet shortages and wider pressures being felt across the economy mean these checks now cost more to carry out.' Nonetheless, after a meeting in June, FSA chair Susan Jebb acknowledged both that 'smaller businesses face a disproportionately greater cost of regulation' and noted 'the importance of the discount [scheme] to their viability'. She added that the board would 'develop proposals for a potential new scheme' but that the decision would ultimately rest with the government. Partridge has had to install eight CCTV cameras at the cost of around £4,000. But the employer national insurance hike was the final nail. 'To save money we no longer trade in the abattoir or shop on Mondays,' he says. Do they make a profit? He grunts. 'Barely,' he says. 'What saves us is we own the property. If we rented we wouldn't be here.' Whatever your views on the reality of a slaughterhouse's work, it is sad to think of this historic business falling silent. Partridge and his team are passionate about what they do. They work intently in the chill, surrounded by metal pulleys and hooks silently butchering hanging carcasses which gleam under the strip lights. There is a kind of reverence around the vast swaying bullock as it is heaved from the slaughter hall where beasts are shot after being stunned, and lambs and pigs are electrocuted. The butcher's shop, 'carnivore diet' sign outside, is teeming with produce, all meat from the farm with no mileage; marbled, ruby red cuts, plump sausages, homemade pies. Andrew mixes faggots in the kitchen. This could all be at risk if the abattoir closes. They would need to source their meat elsewhere as there isn't an abattoir near enough to travel to. 'And people come to us for quality,' says Partridge. You can tell he's thinking about that black and white photograph. Perhaps his most moving words are spoken about his livestock. 'I really care about my animals,' he explains. 'We don't love them,' he corrects me, 'we respect them.' The animal rights protesters who have shown up at the farm might not agree. Yet he is adamant the animals should not travel long distances for slaughter. 'The stress levels are not good for them,' he says. He grapples to find the words for the business which has been his life. 'I just want to keep it going,' he says. 'I don't want it to finish.'

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