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An Ordinary Case review – Daniel Auteuil directs and stars in tense Ruth Rendell-ish crime procedural

An Ordinary Case review – Daniel Auteuil directs and stars in tense Ruth Rendell-ish crime procedural

The Guardian7 hours ago

Here is a fictionalised true crime drama, but one that is more stately and sedate than the garish procedural brutality of regular true crime. There is one gruesome crime-scene photo, but otherwise this could really have been based on something by Ruth Rendell. It is co-written and directed by its star Daniel Auteuil and the original French title is Le Fil (The Thread), after an incriminating thread of material found on the corpse – or perhaps it means the thread of logic behind a legal argument, the loose thread which, if pulled sufficiently, might cause the whole thing to collapse.
The action is based on a case recounted by Jean-Yves Moyart, a criminal defence lawyer, who blogged under the name 'Maître Mô' and who died in 2021. Grégory Gadebois plays Nicolas Milik ('Ahmed' in Moyart's blog), a devoted, careworn husband to his alcoholic wife Cécile and caring dad to five children. When Milik is accused of murdering his wife, with a local bar owner apparently an accomplice, principled lawyer Maître Monier (Auteuil) takes the case; passionately convinced of his client's innocence but finding himself in an increasingly tense situation.
An Ordinary Case is, mostly, a rather low-key movie whose incidental details of obsession and crime are oddly underplayed; the same goes for Auteuil's rather detached performance, gliding through scenes in court and at home with his partner and fellow lawyer Maître Annie Debret (Sidse Babett Knudsen). Yet the film snaps into shape after the verdict in the final act and a tense conversation between Monier and Milik has a force that lends a retrospective charge to what has gone before; their final conversation raises the stakes yet further.
This is not exactly a drama of ambiguity, like Justine Triet's Anatomy of a Fall: it is more old-fashioned than that. Perhaps Auteuil needed to give it more energy on both sides of the camera, yet there is a charge in its deferred revelation.
An Ordinary Case is on digital platforms from 7 July.

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Ukrainian PoW with ‘Glory to Russia' BURNED on skin says sick ‘Calling Putin' torture method left him begging for death
Ukrainian PoW with ‘Glory to Russia' BURNED on skin says sick ‘Calling Putin' torture method left him begging for death

The Sun

time25 minutes ago

  • The Sun

Ukrainian PoW with ‘Glory to Russia' BURNED on skin says sick ‘Calling Putin' torture method left him begging for death

A UKRAINIAN prisoner of war who had the words "Glory to Russia" burnt on his skin said he was left begging for death. Following his release in a prisoner swap earlier this year, Andriy Pereverzev has revealed disturbing details of his time in captivity, including sick torture method "Calling Putin". 7 7 The Ukrainian POW was captured in February 2024 on the battlefield after being severely wounded. Despite his pleas to just "end it" and "finish" him off, Pereverzev was carried to an encampment where he was brutally tortured. Speaking for the first time about his experience, Pereverzev told how he was mercilessly electrocuted by Vlad's troops seeking intelligence. He said: "While they were carrying me. I kept asking them, 'Finish me off. Just end it, but they didn't. "They used electric shocks on my open wounds a couple of times, and I started blacking out again. 'They stripped me, checked my wounds…..My buttock was shredded. 'Three hits to the head with a filled five litre plastic bottle. My hands were tied, my eyes were covered. That was their welcome. I fell, blacked out. 'They used electric shocks on my open wounds a couple of times, and I started blacking out again. "The guards came in and asked us to recite the Russian national anthem. 'Those who didn't know it were beaten until they couldn't get up.' I was stabbed and electrocuted by Russian Soldiers As well as being horrifically beaten, the POW described how he had the words "Glory to Russia" burned on his skin whilst in captivity. A disturbing photo emerged earlier this month showing the mutilated soldier. The phrase, written in Russian, has been branded sideways onto his right flank in large, uneven letters. Up the middle of the tortured soldier's torso is another thick, livid scar ragged by rough stick marks. He also has a tube fitted into his stomach, and another area of major scarring on his left flank. Referring to the moment he woke up in hospital after the grim procedure he recalled: '[A Russian nurse told me] Don't worry, when you get home you can remove it or get a tattoo over it. 'I had no idea what she was talking about. Absolutely none.' A week later, when his dressing was being changed by two Russian guards, he said he "gasped" when he saw his stomach for the first time. He said: 'I lifted my head just to look at my stomach and there it was 'Glory to Russia' burnt into my skin with a medical cautery tool. The surgeon did this to me.' When asked how he reacted to the gruesome discovery, Pereverzev told Kyiv-based project UNITED24: 'I said, you're all bastards. I'll shoot every one of you.' He was later beaten up, with one soldier "poking" his wounds with his finger. 7 7 "It hurt like hell," he said. Pereverzev also described another occasion when he was brutally tortured during an interrogation. He recalled: 'One guy was sitting at a table typing on a laptop while the other one was torturing me. 'He kept hitting me on the ears, punching the back of my head using a stun gun on me. 'They asked me where my wound was. I pointed to my leg. 'They ripped off the bandage and started electrocuting me right there directly into the wound. That went on for about 40 minutes.' Following his release, the Ukrainian POW also told how prisoners would often get wired to an old Soviet phone and their bodies surged with electricity. The sick torture tactic - dubbed "Calling Putin" -- has been known to inflict 80-volt electric shocks into the genitals of captives. He said: 'It's basically a regular old phone. Two wires are connected to it like clamps, and they can attach them to any part of your body. 'Then they crank the phone handle, lift the receiver, and there is this old Soviet style rotary dial on it. 'The higher the number, you dial from 0 to 9, the stronger the electric current. 'And with each number, the power increases a lot.' Last year there were reports of "Calling Putin" torture used on suspects in the Crucus City Hall massacre in which 145 died and 551 were wounded. In this case, Russian interrogators used a TA-57 military telephone attached to the suspect's genitals. When he finally returned home, Pereverzev said he had lost 35lbs and his nine-year-old daughter didn't recognise him. "I promised her then that no matter what condition I'd be in. Even without arms, without legs, I'd still come back," he said. 7 7

‘Smellmaxxing' and ‘frag heads': how the gen Z perfume boom came up roses for indie brands
‘Smellmaxxing' and ‘frag heads': how the gen Z perfume boom came up roses for indie brands

The Guardian

time30 minutes ago

  • The Guardian

‘Smellmaxxing' and ‘frag heads': how the gen Z perfume boom came up roses for indie brands

'Will the girl who I just met at the perfume store please comment the perfume you recommended,' wrote Chappell Roan on Instagram last month. 'You said it smelled like lipstick.' The post went viral and the scent – Girl of the Year by the Los Angeles perfume house Thin Wild Mercury – instantly sold out. It's hard to think of a more appropriate perfume for the performer. The house describes it as having 'top notes of lipstick and incense; middle notes of 'smoker's leather jacket' and a base of sandalwood, orris root and vintage fur'. The brand – whose name is culled from a Bob Dylan quote – is one of a growing set of perfumers reinventing scent for new fragrance fans. Like bedroom DJs or T-shirt screen-printers before them, they're changing the culture of an established industry. The global fragrance market is the biggest it has ever been and still growing; it is set to generate revenue of about £45bn in 2025, according to Statista. The UK market alone reached £1.74bn in 2024 and, if growth continues apace, will top £2bn by 2029 according to a 2024 Mintel report. This growth is driven by gen Z and millennials, who have formed a unique relationship with fragrance due to social media and Covid isolation – PerfumeTok drove 45% of social media scent sales in the US by 2023. Instead of a dab behind the ear, they prefer scent layering – wearing two or more perfumes at the same time – and scent wardrobing (matching fragrances to different occasions). Eighty-three per cent of gen Z wear fragrance as often as three times a week, according to a recent report by Circana. Perfume took off, somewhat unexpectedly, during lockdown, says Suzy Nightingale of the podcast On the Scent. 'It was expected the fragrance market would fall, but it boomed,' says Nightingale, an award-winning perfume blogger. 'People discovered they could punctuate their day with moments of difference – travel with their noses, revel in nostalgia or excite their senses with novelty. I think that was when people realised it's not about 'attracting a partner' or having a signature scent – if it ever was. It's donning an invisible cloak of protection, empowering yourself.' Successful perfume influencers play a key role in the storytelling side of these products. Theatrical and charismatic TikTokkers such as @professorperfume and @jeremyfragrance explain new scents so vividly that their followers sometimes buy without smelling the perfume first. They spin tales of the weird girls and confident boys who wear these scents; PerfumeTok influences 66% of gen Z purchases. Teenage boys have become surprising cognoscenti when it comes to luxury aftershave. The TikTok term for scent layering in this age group is 'smellmaxxing', a buzzword that became so prevalent that the New York Times defined it last year as a 'term for enhancing one's musk'. According to a 2025 US trend report by Piper Sandler, teenagers are spending more money across beauty categories in general, but fragrance has grown the most – up 22% year on year. On a recent visit to Bloom Perfumery, a boutique selling independent and niche fragrances in the UK, I watched a boy who couldn't have been older than 16 chat about cologne with an assistant twice his age with a genuinely inspiring level of passion and sophistication, beaming through his braces as he discussed smoky notes. 'There's been a lot of pearl-clutching commentary worrying about how much [teenagers] spend,' says Nightingale. 'But if you actually bother to talk to the younger generations thronging the halls of perfumeries from Boots to the Black Hall of Harrods, you discover they're saving their pocket money – sometimes for years – and taking on part-time jobs to explore scent.' While previous generations were satisfied with scent juggernauts such as CK One, Le Male, Poison or Opium, an emerging group of 'frag heads' wants more. The idea of personalising your scent – smellmaxxing or scent layering – is key for them. Still, what 16-year-old can afford to layer a £90 Loewe scent with something marginally cheaper from Armani – and to that end, how did such expensive scents become the norm? As luxury scents boomed post-pandemic, so too did dupes – replicas of designer products. Offering luxury style at low prices, dupes feel more Robin Hood than guilty secret. Some new brands got their start providing vegan or cruelty-free alternatives to blockbuster fragrances, notably Eden Perfumes, a family-run business in Brighton now lauded for its own scents as much as its knockoffs. Meanwhile, the high street stepped up to do what it does best: producing designer style at affordable prices. The Zara perfume counter is currently the place to go if you want to smell like a million dollars for less than £20. While logos and bottle designs are easy to trademark, you cannot trademark a scent nor patent a perfume recipe under UK law. Some dupes can be poorer quality than luxury brands, but they're safe as long as you use common sense. A trusted retailer will follow safety standards; an unknown one may not be as stringent. Sign up to Fashion Statement Style, with substance: what's really trending this week, a roundup of the best fashion journalism and your wardrobe dilemmas solved after newsletter promotion As well as dupes, 'niche perfumes' gained traction. While cosmetics giants such as Coty, Guerlain and Estée Lauder have dominated since the early 20th century, independent pioneers appeared who followed their instincts and taste rather than market research. Brands such as Le Labo, Sol de Janeiro and Byredo changed the game – Le Labo's Santal 33 was the fashion circle's signature scent and a Santal 26 candle appeared in Beyoncé's Lemonade film in 2016. Victoria Beckham and Sienna Miller namechecked Byredo as their favourite perfumer. It is no wonder these brands have now been snapped up by LVMH and other conglomerates. More indie scents launched after lockdown, including complicated and counterintuitive fragrances. The idea of perfume as confrontational, confusing art grew. The Canadian brand Zoologist found fame for its award-winning Bee scent (notes of ginger syrup, royal jelly and broom) in 2020, as did Inexcusable Evil by the Romanian perfumer Toskovat, with its bouquet of bandages, blood and burnt flowers. This year brings Silver Haze from Alloy Studio, which evokes 'a backseat smoke session' and has notes of cannabis, chocolate powder and strawberries. Food-inspired fragrances are the latest perfume craze with scents like pretzels and cherries finding favour. Some fans went deep, obsessing over process, rarity or a unique note in a scent, discussing them like oenophiles on Reddit and dedicated scent chatrooms. Some turned to DIY, using Sam Macer's YouTube channel and forums such as Basenotes to swap tips on sourcing ingredients and aroma combinations. For a few, the hobby became a side hustle and finally a career. Indie companies looked to creators who had taught themselves to blend new scents. As the industry traditionally requires a chemistry degree, a spell at a (preferably French) perfume school – such as ISIPCA in Versailles – then an apprenticeship at a fragrance house, this influx of new blood has been a huge shakeup. You can buy perfume ingredients such as fixatives, solvents and scent compounds online, so, like microbrewers and bakers before them, self-taught perfumers simply got stuck in. 'There's a definite sense of punk-rock impresarios to some indie brands,' says Nightingale. 'Not tied up in shareholders' opinions and having to panel-test everything so that it's acceptable rather than exciting.' At a time when beauty conglomerates are turning to AI and science for new scents, it's refreshing to find gatecrashers at the party. The Spanish company Puig used 45m brain readings from men aged 18-35 to finesse the ingredients of the cologne Phantom by Paco Rabanne before its 2021launch – the result was a commercial bestseller. Independent perfumers can bring a bit more imagination to the process. The British scent company Earl of East recently collaborated with the musician Bon Iver, who they asked to do a blind smell test, then used his answers to create a custom scent inspired by his latest album. The resulting range of mood mists and candles instantly sold out. The creation process for the two products couldn't be more different, but the world smells better because both of them exist. Paul Firmin, a co-founder of Earl of East, thinks the lack of formal education behind the brand is a strength. It started as a hobby and a market stall but is now stocked globally. It holds workshops for customers who want to make their own perfumes. 'We've worked hard to demystify scent, encouraging people to engage with it in a way that feels personal rather than intimidating,' says Firmin. 'Removing outdated boundaries – like the idea that scent should be tied to gender – has also opened up the space. That distinction was a ridiculous concept in the first place.' Another autodidact is Maya Njie, a Swedish-born, UK-based perfumer, who started her fragrance house in 2016. While studying surface design at the University of Arts London, Njie got sidetracked. 'I was exploring storytelling through photography, print and pattern and I began incorporating scent.' She was inspired by family photo albums; holiday snaps of Gambian beaches led to her perfume Tropica, which combines sea salt, pineapple and coconut. 'Being self-taught has given me the freedom to approach perfumery from an artistic and instinctive place,' she says. 'I can do this as the brand owner as I'm only working to my own brief.' Nightingale wishes the new indies of perfume received more support from the industry. 'I see so many tiny brands fall by the wayside. I'd love to see retailers celebrate them more – giving them shelf room among the big corporate-owned names.' Cathleen Cardinali, co-founder of Thin Wild Mercury, found that nothing beats word of mouth. As she posted on social media after Roan's viral message: '[Our] customers went crazy tagging us in an international pop superstar's Instagram because they were so excited by the notion that she might like their favourite little indie perfume brand.' If you're looking for the smell of lipstick, sun cream from a day at the beach, smoking in a car, or have some other olfactory fantasy, this new generation of self-taught perfumers are waiting to play it out for you.

The trending prints to wear instead of florals this summer
The trending prints to wear instead of florals this summer

BreakingNews.ie

time31 minutes ago

  • BreakingNews.ie

The trending prints to wear instead of florals this summer

By now, florals are practically synonymous with summer dressing. But like The Devil Wears Prada's Miranda Priestly once said, florals aren't exactly 'groundbreaking'. Advertisement View this post on Instagram A post shared by Boden (@boden) If you're sick of wearing plain white or ditsy florals and want something less predictable – gingham, polka dots and unusual stripes are big patterns to sport this summer. But what's the best way to style them? British designers share their secrets on how you can revive retro prints and wear them well. Gingham This Fifties-inspired classic always returns in warm weather, but gingham can walk a fine line between being classic and twee. The trick is knowing where that line is . 'Gingham is such a timeless summer staple,' says fashion designer and podcaster Amanda Wakeley OBE, 'but to keep it chic rather than childlike is pretty tough. Advertisement View this post on Instagram A post shared by Laura Doyle (@doylediary) 'Silhouettes need to be sleeker and stay away from a plethora of ruffles.' She recommends a streamlined top, balanced with grown-up accessories that elevate rather than embellish. Softer fabrics can definitely help shift the tone when it comes to gingham, as Aspiga' s founder Lucy Macnamara notes, 'gingham can feel nostalgic, but the key to keeping it grown-up is all in the silhouette and styling. Look for organic cotton or linen blends in tailored shapes – shirt dresses, wrap blouses, wide-leg trousers.' (Zara/PA) Zara Gingham Check Top (H&M/PA) H&M Linen-blend Tailored Trousers (Stradivarius/PA) Stradivarius Set of Two Rigid Bracelets Retro vintage Nostalgic prints are a tricky one – as they can either feel cool and timeless or totally outdated. While the Eighties has made a comeback this year, the Mario Buatta-inspired chintz hasn't quite re-entered fashion. This season the runway has taken inspiration from the Seventies and Eighties rock scene, with animal prints in the form of snake, tiger and cow dominating collections. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Maria Frazao (@mariaffrazao) 'Personally, I love a striking animal print or bold retro,' says Wakeley. 'I have a soft spot for Seventies-inspired motifs – they remind me of my travels in Kenya and India,' says Macnamara. Advertisement Worn as a statement piece pared with monochromes in either red, white or butter yellow, animal print is remarkably easy to throw on and look put together. (H&M/PA) H&M Brown/Tortoiseshell-patterned Sunglasses (And Other Stories/PA) & Other Stories Cow-Print Leather Tote (Tu Clothing/PA) Tu Clothing Buttermilk Tailored Linen Blend Co-ord Waistcoat Polka dots Returning this year as a firm favourite is the polka dot. Loved by the Princess of Wales, last year this playful print dominated the high street with Pretty Woman-inspired mocha dresses. The Princess of Wales re-wore a polka-dot Alessandra Rich dress at the Thanksgiving Service for VE Day in May this year (Jonathan Brady/PA) Once reserved purely for the Sloane ranger, the polka dot has been shaking off its preppy reputation and emerging with more fashion flair, cropping up on the runways of Valentino and Moschino in Eighties-inspired cocktail dresses and Mickey Mouse-sized dots on power-shouldered blazers. 'I adore them in monochrome palettes,' says Wakeley, who favours a dark navy or ivory as a base, 'in either medium-sized or small dots is really sophisticated. Advertisement View this post on Instagram A post shared by Caroline Cook (@carolinesstylehacks) '[They] work particularly well printed on chiffons and lightweight fabrics which can be cut with volume and movement which adds an element of romance.' Macnamara is drawn to understated tones too, 'to keep them elegant, I prefer a smaller, scattered dot on a neutral background like cream, navy or soft chocolate,' she says. 'A silk blouse or wrap dress in a mini-dot print can feel playful without being overpowering.' If you're looking for something more daring, the experts suggest picking fabric or colour when it comes to this print – not both – to avoid looking too gaudy. (River Island/PA) River Island White Sleeveless Polka Dot Mesh Top (Nobody's Child/PA) Nobody's Child White Polka Dot Linen-blend Tasmin Midi Dress Bayadere and organic stripes Stripes never really go away, but this summer, they've loosened up. Advertisement 'This season, there is a layering of different scales of stripes and a use of more irregular stripes,' says Wakeley. 'There's a wonderful androgyny about wearing stripes – they're striking, eye-catching, but timeless.' View this post on Instagram A post shared by Nic & Liv | Dopamine Dressing + Colourful Living (@novasistas) While the Nineties bayadere stripe is making a comeback, 'We're also seeing more relaxed, irregular hand-drawn stripes which I love for a more artisanal, effortless feel,' says Macnamara. 'The key is to go for colours that lift your skin tone and keep the rest of your look clean and simple.' (Anthropologie/PA) Anthropologie Oversized Stripe Hair Scrunchie (Oliver Bonas/PA) Oliver Bonas White Lobster Graphic T-shirt (Damson Madder/PA) Damson Madder Chlo Trousers – Red Stripe The most flattering prints The question of what is 'flattering' often crops up when it comes to prints. While you should wear whichever print you feel best in, some can work better than others. 'Paisleys tend to flatter all shapes,' says Wakeley, 'I'd steer clear of overly large, bold prints if you're feeling body-conscious. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Daughters of India (@daughtersofindia) 'Smaller-scale prints can create movement and elongation.' Macnamara agrees, saying that 'they draw the eye without overwhelming the frame. Placement is also important – prints concentrated at the hem or sleeve can be really flattering.' (Aspiga/PA) Aspiga Aurelia Organic Cotton Block Print Dress How to print clash The resurgence of Seventies-style print clashing can be very cool, but definitely requires a certain level of conviction. 'This is a 'more is more' trend,' says Wakeley. 'There are no rules – so have fun and just go for it.' View this post on Instagram A post shared by Nic & Liv | Dopamine Dressing + Colourful Living (@novasistas) But if you want a slightly more strategic approach, Macnamara says 'the trick is to keep the colour palette consistent. 'Soft terracotta, blush, sand […] play with scale – pair a bold, larger print with a finer, more delicate one.' For the uninitiated, she suggests starting small: 'A printed blouse with a patterned scarf or headband can be a subtle way in.'

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