Denmark's Laid-back Northern Coast Has 19-hour Summer Days and a Quaint Surf Town Called 'Cold Hawaii'

Travel + Leisure

21 hours ago

Summertime in Denmark is like nowhere else. With the sunset pushed back past 10 p.m., there's plenty of time to pedal around on a bike, drink natural wine on the waterfront between swims, and take in the effortless cool and always joyous vibes of the country.
On a recent trip to a rugged and wild stretch of the country known as the Jutland, I found that summertime buzz is taken to the next level in these parts. This string of fishing towns in northwest Denmark has become an unlikely surfer hub in recent years—and more than just good waves have washed up on the area's shore.
After a week traversing the area, I found the last wild flat oysters in all of Europe, ambitious tasting menus, hygge-packed boutique hotels, and a million reasons to venture into the untouched natural spoils of this region and get lost for a little while. Surfers wait to catching waves in the cold waters of Klitmoller and Hanstholm.
FynnAalborg, Denmark's fourth-largest city, makes a convenient getaway to the country's northern coast. You might opt to explore the art museums and walkable waterfront in this compact city for a day or two to see why Travel + Leisure named it one of the best places to go in 2024. But after landing, our crew found the promise of crashing waves irresistible, so we piled in our van and headed straight to the coast on a 90-minute drive.
Denmark is an unlikely surfing destination. But this region—nicknamed 'Cold Hawaii'—sits at a high latitude that allows it to usher in epic swells as storms pass through the north. Surfers began whispering about the good surf brought on by the area's sometimes harsh weather in recent years. Red Bull heard the scuttlebutt and recently hosted its premier King of the Air qualifier event near Klitmøller, and the area is currently gearing up to host the World Championships for windsurfing.
We landed on a gloomy day, but even through the misty coastal air, I immediately spotted the bobbing heads of surfers sitting just past the break as the wind whipped the coast. Where warmer weather surf towns have beach bars and seafood shacks, cozy coffee shops and sauna clubs line the beach in Klitmøller. I opted to take in the tranquility of the gray skies with a coffee, but you could zip up a wetsuit and grab a board courtesy of Cold Hawaii Surf Camp and dive right in, wasting no time. One of the Sauna Clubs along the beaches in Klitmoller.
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Chilly summer days aren't uncommon in these parts—which makes sense considering the Jutland shares latitude lines with Alaska. So even on summer days, a long day in the water should end with a cozy meal. I found just that only a short drive down the coast at Hanstholm Madbar, which has a dining room lined with large windows that look out onto the vast grasslands. Walking up to the restaurant, I passed bushes of sea buckthorn (tart orange berries that grow wildly in this region) and shaggy brown cows. The serene setting is the perfect place to dig into steamy pots of mussels and specials that change with the seasons.
All of the towns along this stretch of coast are teeny—some have just over 1,000 residents. But word of premier surfing and an opportunity to unplug has brought more and more visitors and a slew of new hotels. Owned by a world-famous chef, the 36-room property at Svinkløv Badehotel guarantees excellent dining and a cottage-like atmosphere, and a popular Danish design brand, Vipp, recently opened a three-bedroom guesthouse that allows guests to immerse themselves in the nature and solitude of the area.
The next morning, I admittedly hit snooze to sleep off a long travel day. Those who were up bright and early headed to the country's largest seafood auction in Hanstholm, where fresh catches from the North Sea are sold in a lively atmosphere on weekdays.
The rest of day two should be spent among the waves, but make time to visit Hanstholm Lighthouse. Once the oldest and most powerful lighthouse in all of Denmark, the space also hosts a summertime pop-up called Østlængen with pizza, traditional Danish plates of sourdough and cheese, and birkes , a local baked good that features flaky, croissant-like layers filled with marzipan. Thy National Park (nationalpark Thy) in the morning sunrise.
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I started the day by driving about 20 minutes inland to Thy National Park. Ninety-four square miles of protected land is packed with sand dunes and bird-filled wetlands ripe for exploring. Climb to the top of Lodbjerg Lighthouse for sweeping views of the rugged coastline or spot red deer and rare birds in the country's largest wildlife reserve.
On the edge of the national park, Thy Whisky is run by eighth-generation farmers who respect the land and turn it into some solid single malts. The owners took me through rolling hills of barley, rye, and wheat and all of the distillery spaces before filling up glasses of four different whiskies for a taste. The single-estate distillery also offers quicker drop-in tastings, but it's worth penciling in some extra time for the tour to fully appreciate these terroir-driven pours.
After driving about 25 minutes further down the coast, I settled down for a mind-blowing meal at Restaurant Tri, which sits in a tiny coastal town with less than 200 people. The restaurant is chef Nicolas Min Jørgensen's ode to regional flavors achieved by expert sourcing and a palpable love for the area. When I was there, a local farmer had just dropped by with a bounty of fresh produce and Jørgensen was upstairs drying mushrooms from a recent foraging trip—no wonder the Michelin Guide has awarded this spot both a standard star and a special green star award for sustainability.
After a long night, tuck into Vorupør Badehotel. The seven-room property sits right on the ocean and oversized windows ensure you can take in all the views. Going oystering in Mors.
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Oysters are another draw of the region, so my final day was spent pulling on waders and getting out into the fjord between the island of Mors and the mainland.
The area's Danish Shellfish Center is dedicated to researching and sustaining some of Europe's last remaining wild oysters. The team offers a two-hour experience that starts with a lesson on the area's flat oysters before it's time to pull on slick rubber waders and get out on the water. Equipped with a waterproof outfit, a net attached to a long bamboo pole, and a bucket to hold my catch, I walked down to the water to give it a go. After about 45 minutes of scouring the floor of the fjord, I only had an oyster or two to show for my efforts. But even on unlucky days, the team has plenty of fresh oysters to shuck while you toast some sparkling wine to a hard day's work. A dish from Limfjordens Hus.
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For even more seafood, have lunch at Limfjordens Hus nestled in Glyngøre Havn. If you have room for even more oyster-infused fare, walk over to Danish Oyster Bar to try a local beer that's brewed with oyster shells resulting in a delightfully briny pour that can be enjoyed overlooking the water.
We then checked into the Tambohus Inn for our last night in the Jutland. The accommodations are homey and simple, but its location along the fjord is prized. Before packing up for the airport, be sure to cross the street to enjoy the inn's sauna and chilly plunge into the fjord to do as the locals do—it's the only way to cap off this epic trip.