The Story Of How Guerlain Evolved From Family Dynasty To Global Perfume Powerhouse

Forbes

3 days ago

In the Orphin workshop, Guerlain's Dames de Table perpetuate a savoir-faire transmitted from generation to generation: embellishing perfume flacons Photo Pol Baril
Among the world's oldest and most prestigious perfume houses, Guerlain was founded in Paris in 1828. For almost 170 years, five generations of the Guerlain family have been at the helm of this iconic brand, shaping the history of fragrance through visionary craftsmanship and innovation. From Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain's humble beginnings to Jean-Paul Guerlain's tenure as the last family master perfumer, and the eventual acquisition of the brand by LVMH, Guerlain has evolved from a family dynasty into a global luxury giant. At the same time, the Guerlain name continues to resonate in the broader perfume community today through descendants like Paul Guerlain and Patricia de Nicolaï, who perpetuate the family's legacy in their own ways.
A forward-thinking perfumer-chemist and entrepreneur, Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain opened his first boutique at 42 rue de Rivoli in the heart of Paris. Elegant women and dandies rapidly flocked to it, including royalty and nobility such as the Countess of Castiglione, Princess of Metternich, Prince of Wales and Duchess of Berry. The fragrance that solidified Pierre-François-Pascal's reputation was Eau de Cologne Impériale, created in 1853 for Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III. It not only garnered him the title of 'Patented Perfumer to Her Majesty', but also established Guerlain as a perfume house synonymous with high society and sophistication. His success laid the groundwork for what would become an illustrious family heritage handed down from generation to generation.
Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain, founder of the house of Guerlain Photo courtesy of Guerlain
'Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain always knew how to adapt his creations by capturing the trends of his time,' explains Ann Caroline Prazan, Guerlain's Art, Culture & Heritage Director. 'He established the foundations of the Guerlain brand with a commitment to quality and innovation. Finally, he had the intelligence of the family by passing on his know-how to his sons, which means that today, we are the French perfume house, still in activity, with the greatest longevity.'
Following Pierre-François-Pascal's death, his sons Aimé and Gabriel Guerlain took over the business and continued to elevate the brand. In 1889, Aimé created Jicky, the first scent to mix synthetic notes with natural extracts, marking the birth of modern perfumery. It set Guerlain apart from its competitors and established the house as a pioneer in the use of synthetic ingredients, forever altering the course of the perfume industry. He was also responsible for 'Ne m'oubliez pas', the first-ever lipstick in a tube that was portable and refillable.
In 1890, Aimé Guerlain's nephews, Jacques and Pierre Guerlain, took command of the brand. Jacques, as Guerlain's third master perfumer, was behind the house's olfactory signature known as the 'Guerlinade' – composed of vanilla, balsams, bergamot, tonka bean, iris, rose and jasmine – running through the house's fragrances since 1921. Credited with creating some of Guerlain's most timeless perfumes, he crafted masterpieces such as Shalimar, Vol de Nuit, Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue over his 65-year career, all of which remain bestsellers to this day. 'Jacques Guerlain designed more than 400 fragrances for women, some of which are still Guerlain references,' says Prazan. 'These creations showcased his ability to blend exotic ingredients into complex olfactory compositions, which became synonymous with Guerlain scents and significantly influenced perfume making.'
L'Heure Bleue, an iconic Guerlain perfume Photo courtesy of Guerlain
With a poetic and emotionally evocative approach to perfumery, Jacques Guerlain drew inspiration from literature, art and personal memories to tell stories through his fragrances. For example, Shalimar originated from the love story of Emperor Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal, whose passion was immortalised by the Taj Mahal. Presented in an unconventional flacon conceived by Raymond Guerlain, Jacques' nephew, Shalimar's 'design broke away from traditional bottle styles and set new standards for luxury presentation in perfume packaging,' notes Prazan. The last family member to serve as master perfumer, Jean-Paul Guerlain, Jacques' grandson, carried on the family tradition of creating iconic fragrances, initially contributing to men's perfumery through Vetiver and Habit Rouge. New Owners
The sale of Guerlain in 1994 marked a turning point in the brand's history, as it was no longer tied to family succession. However, the LVMH acquisition brought with it new resources and global reach, allowing Guerlain to expand its influence in international markets, while maintaining its heritage of craftsmanship, today under the creative guidance of in-house perfumer, Thierry Wasser. While the brand is no longer a family-run business, the Guerlain name continues to have a presence in the perfume world, thanks to family members who have forged their own paths.
Paul Guerlain, the grandson of Jean-Paul Guerlain, although not affiliated with the Guerlain brand, represents the next generation committed to upholding the values that have defined the maison for centuries. A perfumer at IFF, he has crafted scents for the likes of Christian Louboutin, Dries van Noten, Rabanne, Reine de Saba and Valentino. Similarly, perfumer Patricia de Nicolaï, the great-granddaughter of Pierre Guerlain, built her own brand, Nicolaï Parfumeur-Créateur. Producing a line of award-winning scents and opening standalone boutiques, her work honours the family heritage, and she is joined today by her son Axel.
Each succeeding generation of the Guerlain family has enriched the perfume industry, preserving the rich ancestral tradition and crafting some of the world's most beloved fragrances. While the house is no longer family-owned, the Guerlain name continues to be tied to excellence, both within the brand and beyond, and is destined to endure for centuries to come. Prazan concludes, 'Although the role of master perfumer is no longer directly linked to the family estate, some family members remain active in the wider perfumery community, playing various consultancy roles, lecturing and contributing their expertise in the field of collective knowledge, so that the legacy lives on within global perfumery, even beyond the walls of the original maison.'