I spent a weekend in one of Britain's 'worst places' and fell in love

Metro

09-07-2025

In the 12th installment of Metro Travel Hot Takes, Jon Fellowes makes the case for Stoke-On-Trent, a city variously described as crap, unsexy and the worst place to live in the Midlands.
If you're planning a weekend away in the UK, it's safe to say that some places come to mind quicker than others. It's even safer, perhaps, to say that Stoke-On-Trent was not at the top of your list.
Despite getting some love as an underrated destination for 2025, the six towns that make up the city rarely feature in British tourist guides.
Some residents even describe it as 'smoke on stench', a not-so-subtle nod to its industrial past. On YouTube, there's a video grimly titled 'Stoke: the city with no hope'.
I was born less than an hour away, but Stoke has never featured in my travels.
However, after my trip to the worst destination for a UK city break turned out to be nothing short of a roaring success, I am determined to, once again, give another of England's underrated spots a chance to shine.
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So, what does a weekend in 'the potteries' hold in store? As it turns out, a lot more than you might think.
My first night in Stoke is spent just outside the city in one of its many 'satellites', a charming village named Swynnerton, 15 minutes drive from the city centre.
My destination is The Fitzherbert Arms.
Simply put, the Fitzherbert is everything you could want in a country pub. The interior is charming, the food delicious, and the accommodation both comfortable and affordably priced.
Dating back to at least 1834, it's hard to miss after you drive down the unfortunately named 'Stab Lane' and into the lovely village of Swynnerton.
After check-in, I'm taken to my room in 'the farmhouse' across the road. The rooms average £140 a night, but that can vary between midweek and weekend depending on which you choose to stay in.
The tiny details are what really make this place stand out. From marble coat hangers on the backs of the doors to the intricate wrought-iron toilet tissue holder and 'Farmer's Wash' products, they all add up to a rustic aesthetic that somehow never feels dated or shabby, just charming.
After check in , it's time to check out the pub and take a table for dinner. (Sorry.)
The pub's aesthetic is what you might imagine — button-back armchairs, open fires, and cosy corners. It has a delightful little terrace at the back, which proves to be a nice spot for an early evening pint.
I opt for some pub classics for dinner – starting with the traditional scotch egg (£4.95) and the 'legendary' Steak and Ale pie with chips and mushy peas (£17.95). Both are sumptuous comfort food, exactly what you want from a country boozer.
Another highlight is the boozy vanilla pod ice cream (£7.95), which comes with a 'tot' of port and homemade carrot cake.
The pub has a close relationship with the Symington family, known for their Port production in the Douro Valley. That's where it gets its nickname, the 'port pub'. And it's a name well-earned.
The pub has what it describes as a 'bible' for all the ports behind the bar, and I feel like it would be rude not to opt for a measure before I retire for the night.
For the rest of my stay, I am put up at the Hilton Garden Inn Stoke-on-Trent.
I've always considered Hilton Garden Inn among the best affordable hotel chains, and this one is no exception. The rooms are clean, comfortable, and spacious for a city-centre hotel, and at around £90 (room only), they are reasonably priced.
The views from my near top-floor room are magnificent, especially towards the evening when the sun sinks below the city skyline.
However, the location is undoubtedly the best thing about the Hilton Garden Inn Stoke-on-Trent.
Located in the middle of Hanley, it's within walking distance of many of the places I visit during my stay and just a short drive or Uber ride from the rest.
The Hilton buffet breakfast is something to shout about and stands head and shoulders above its rivals in terms of quality and choice.
Early on in the trip, I got to grips with what Stoke is best known for: the pottery industry.
Long before it became the home of ceramics, the land around Stoke-on-Trent was mainly farmland, but not especially fruitful. However, what it lacked in crops, it made up for in resources for pottery, sparking a boom that would shape the city's identity for centuries to come.
At one point, hundreds of potteries were spread around the city, with up to 6,000 'bottle ovens' firing thousands of pieces.
Half the town was directly or indirectly employed in the industry, and the six towns of Stoke each specialised in their own styles and products.
With such a rich history, it would be remiss not to get a good grounding in what has so obviously helped form the city I am in today.
As such, one of my first stops is the Gladstone Pottery Museum, which proudly featured on Channel 4's The Great Pottery Throwdown.
The site is easy to identify; the bottle ovens towering above its walls can be seen from all over the surrounding area.
Formerly the Gladstone China Works, our tour proves to be a fascinating look into the history of potting in Stoke.
During the visit, I'm also offered a chance to throw my own pot.
I'll confess to being more than a little nervous at the thought of actually trying my hand at the practice. My head is filled with visions of walls covered in clay as I attempt to battle something not unlike the Robin Williams film Flubber.
However, our guide, Kate, is patient and methodical in her instruction, and I somehow managed to fashion something that vaguely resembles a small vase – a complete win in my book.
Prices for throwing start from just £1, plus admission (£8.75 for adults).
One of the most surprising elements of my trip was my wander around the award-winning Trentham Gardens, a sprawling hub of nature and tranquillity minutes away from Stoke's busy centre.
I don't know whether it's the beautiful weather or the good mood that avoiding pot-throwing oblivion that morning has engendered, but walking around Trentham Gardens proves to be the most wonderful part of the whole trip.
The gardens centre around a mile-long lake designed by a man (with apologies to fans of landscaping) who I am astounded to learn was genuinely called 'Capability'.
There was definitely some nominative determinism going on there, as strolling around Trentham Gardens and its lake on a summer's day is nothing short of enchanting.
Once you have parked and walked through the main entrance, you cross the bridge into the site and are immediately confronted with a choice: head straight into the Italian Gardens or turn left and follow the water's edge.
It doesn't matter which way you go; it's all stunning.
After that, lunch at the Garden Tearooms is an excellent choice, with views that stretch right out across the lake.
If your visit took you nowhere else but here, you would still consider it value for money.
However, the woodland walks around the lake's edge create a stunning tapestry of nature, and it's well worth taking the time to do the whole loop.
With families having picnics on the lush green lawns, children laughing and playing near the sparkling water, and swans and geese gliding across the surface, it's like being stuck in a Victorian oil painting in the best possible way.
It's worth pointing out that The Trentham Estate is home to all sorts of activities, from extensive retail and hospitality offerings to its famed 'monkey forest', so even if the weather turns, there are still things to do.
Entrance to Trentham Gardens is £13 for adults, with a 10% discount on early bird online tickets. While I'd definitely recommend a summer visit, they offer an excellent 50% off deal for a return trip if it rains for more than two hours between 10am and 3pm.
While Stoke might not be the first city that comes to mind when you hear the phrase 'fine dining', the food and hospitality offerings in the potteries are yet another surprise on a trip already filled with them.
On the second night of my three-day trip, I dined at Bar Fiesta, a restaurant that does not hold back with its decor. It's awash with a sea of colour, from fairy lights and bunting on the ceiling to multi-coloured stripes on the walls.
My initial reaction was how decently priced everything seemed. Individual tapas plates start at £5.95, and there are plenty of deals on everything from Tacos to burgers and beyond.
But it's the second night of my trip that delivers the culinary highlight.
Little Dumpling King boasts 'HEAVY SCRAN. NATURAL WINE. LOUD MUSIC.' as their tagline, and they deliver on every front.
The food is superb and is a combination of various Asian-inspired favourites mixed with surprising flavours.
Some of my personal highlights were the Haggis Dumplings (£6.75), Salt & Pepper Hashies (£4.25), and LDK Chicken Rice (£13.75), all washed down with a delightfully refreshing Matt Gregory Bacchus/Seyval blend (£32 for a bottle).
Every dish is delicious. If you're looking for a unique food offering in Stoke, LDK is highly recommended.
Stoke is the ancestral home to a litany of musical stars, including pop god Robbie Williams and legendary bass player Lemmy of Motörhead. My hopes were high.
On Friday night, I visited one of the city's bigger music venues, The Sugarmill.
It hosts a healthy mix of touring bands, tributes and other events, but I'm here for a unique experience that proves quite the nostalgia trip: The 900 – the UK's first (and only) Tony Hawk's Pro Skater cover band.
For those of a certain age (late 20s and early 30s in particular), the soundtrack of the Tony Hawk Pro Skater video games has something of a legendary status.
Music-wise, my second night in Stoke proved a little more relaxed in tone (and volume) but no less enjoyable.
I headed a little away from the city centre to a venue called Artisan Tap. If you imagine what an independent live music venue should look like, you're probably thinking of something like the Artisan.
With a lighting rig that wouldn't be out of place in one of the smaller O2 venues, the sense of occasion that can be created from such a small venue is genuinely astounding.
I'm here to see a band called Greg Murray & The Seven Wonders, who immediately deserve kudos for coming up with a cool band name in an age when this is no mean feat.
Gigging a lot around Stoke and the wider Staffordshire area, Greg seems very much on home turf at the Artisan, and their music is well received by everyone in the audience right from the off.
James Gregory Murray's superb songwriting is evident throughout the set, and the positive mix of upbeat pop-rock (infused with hints of Americana and even Latin in places) makes for a thoroughly enjoyable evening.
A big shout-out also goes out to The Seven Wonders, who prove to be a tight band of excellent musicians. https://www.instagram.com/p/DIyrgZXtMlK/?hl=en
Sadly, I can't stay until the bitter end, as I have a late-night appointment at King's Hall for the night's final stop: Soul On Trent.
Celebrating 60 years of Northern Soul, Motown, and Philly in Stoke, the event features a whole range of DJs spinning brilliant music late into the night. More Trending
King's Hall is a stark contrast to the Artisan. The venue is vast and has seen some of the biggest names in popular music take to its stage, including The Beatles and The Rolling Stones in 1963.
The selection of music for the event is excellent, and, while the average age range is perhaps a little older than my good self, the punters clearly have a ball.
However, the day's packed schedule has taken its toll, and with tiredness creeping in, I don't spend a huge amount of time at the venue before it's time to call it a night.
What is evident is that the music scene is very much alive and well in Stoke.
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