I tried the signature sandwich from Homemade in Glasgow

Glasgow Times

27-04-2025

From the moment the French Dip at Homemade was served with a pot of gravy on the side and a total of four napkins for just one person, I knew this wasn't going to be a dignified affair.
Better just to roll up those sleeves, accept my fate and dive in.
Pictured: Homemade in Glasgow's West End (Image: Newsquest)
I'm here thanks to one of The Herald Food and Drinks' very first TikTok followers who, having watched our lunch review of Grumpy Pedro's, suggested I hop along to the West End of Glasgow for the next in the series.
I'd be lying, however, if I said this hasn't been high up on my list since I first interviewed the shop's owner, Caitlin, in 2021.
'I always wanted to make these really massive sandwiches," she told me weeks after opening.
'I used to watch The Sopranos a lot, and when they would be eating huge American-style sandwiches and I would think to myself, 'I really want one of those'
"You know, the kind of sandwich that would take you about half an hour to eat?"
I knew exactly what she meant, and even though four years have passed since our conversation, I've followed the shop's journey closely on social media, lusting over weekend specials and vowing to one day secure one of these Soprano-worthy sandwiches for myself.
The problem is, even though they're open seven days a week on Dowanhill Street, Homemade is known to sell out quickly, which means it takes a little forward planning to ensure you'll be able to choose from their full menu.
On a Monday at around half twelve, there are only a couple of other sit-in diners in the industrial-looking space, all exposed brick and wired lighting fixtures, as a soundtrack of LCD Soundsystem and Jake Bugg fills a somewhat awkward silence.
During what I imagine is a rare quiet lunchtime for the team, I was able to place my order and nab a table by the window in no time at all.
The shop is bigger than I expected, and from my perch, I can see right into the kitchen where panko breaded chicken fillets are being plunged into deep fat fryers for portions of the Chicken Parm with homemade tomato sugo and mozzarella.
I had been close to choosing that one myself, but instead settled on the French Dip, knowing their take on a sandwich designed to be dunked was one of the first to help Homemade build their online hype.
Pictured: The French Dip is served with a pot of homemade gravy for dunking (Image: Newsquest)
And it certainly looked the part when it arrived: a flour-dusted roll split in two and stuffed with slices of rare roast beef, horseradish mayo, red onion chutney, and Swiss cheese melted under the intense heat of a blow torch until its edges had just started to blacken.
But after saturating my first few bites in that piping hot pot of homemade gravy, I'm surprised to find the whole experience a little underwhelming.
I wanted to love this unapologetically messy creation, but the bold flavours it had promised aren't quite there.
(Image: Newsquest)
Any peppery heat from a horse radish mayo is minimal and quickly overpowered by the sweetness of that onion chutney, which also bullies the mild Swiss cheese out of the picture.
It's the bread that really lets the whole thing down, a pillowy soft sub-like roll which rapidly turns to mush when introduced to hot liquid. It's not a texture that does anything for me.
The gravy itself is brilliant, the kind of deep and complex meaty concoction that you'd be proud to serve with your Sunday roast at home. The beef is fantastic too, packed on thick and carrying the entire dish.
That's why latterly I feel so little shame for eventually deciding to ditch the roll and pick out the meat, even as it attracts sideways looks. It's far too good to waste.
It's not a bad lunch by any stretch of the imagination, and I'm eager to take another run at ordering from Homemade. Perhaps the Halloumi & Squash with rose harissa, pomegranate and tahini miso dressing or the 'Spicy Italian' with salami napoli and melted scamorza.
While I know the French Dip is a favourite of many regulars here, it simply leaves me craving a proper roast dinner with more of that beef, lashings of their gravy and crunchy spuds to replace the lacklustre bread.
Price: £10.50 for the French Dip sandwich
Time: Around 5 minutes. Service was friendly and fast without feeling rushed.
Score: 3/5. Although I wanted to love this place, my first experience was a mixed bag.
I'm certain there are a lot of good things coming out of that kitchen, and I look forward to returning soon to try another menu option.
Homemade is located at 11-13 Dowanhill Street in Glasgow.