Inside Billecart-Salmon's Champagne Legacy With CEO Mathieu Roland-Billecart
As the seventh-generation head of one of Champagne's oldest and most revered family-run houses for true connoisseurs, Mathieu Roland-Billecart is not only upholding a two-century-old legacy – he's redefining what it means to lead an independent, artisanal brand in a market dominated by corporate behemoths. After spending 14 years in London working in international consulting, he returned home to Mareuil-sur-Aÿ in 2017, taking over from his second cousin François and becoming CEO of Billecart-Salmon in 2019. Today, he leads a tightly knit team that remains committed to quality, time-honored techniques, and the patient art of crafting some of the most elegant champagnes in the world. In this candid conversation, Roland-Billecart reflects on his childhood in Champagne, the values that have shaped the house for over 200 years, and why staying independent isn't just a business strategy – it's the very essence of Billecart-Salmon.
What was it like growing up as part of the Billecart-Salmon family in Champagne?
It's hard to compare because I've only ever known this. Champagne is a natural ecosystem with vineyards everywhere, but also the pressing room, vinification rooms and everything. It's basically an entire community dedicated to growing vines and making exceptional wine. What's specific for me is I carry the name of the house, so even when people don't know me, they think they know me. It's 95 % a blessing, and 5 % feels like a curse, but overall it's very positive. It's very much a family business. My father worked for the company, so it's like hearing your dad talk about his work. At 10 years old, you don't think, 'This is Billecart-Salmon with all its greatness.' You just think that it's your dad's job. And in our community, a lot of people work for Champagne producers of different prestige and positioning, so it's just part of who you are. Champagne is in our blood – not in the wine, but in the social sense. That's very much part of the Billecart DNA.
A draft horse working Billecart-Salmon's vineyards Photo courtesy of Billecart-Salmon
Was it inevitable that you would lead the house one day?
No. There's a family committee – they're basically my boss now – and I returned to that board in 2013. That's just a few meetings a year to keep the family informed about the business. Then in 2017, my cousin, who led the house for 25 years, turned 70 and said, 'We need to pass the baton to the seventh generation.' The family gathered and asked if I'd be willing to do the job. It wasn't something I was told from birth: 'It will be you.' It's when the stars align. We always try to find the right person at the right time to take over. It's not a normal job. There are many things that are very unusual in a 200-year-old family organization. You have to commit long-term, which I did in 2017.
Are other family members involved in the business today?
There are three of us involved day-to-day. I have two cousins: one covers Italy, the other various European countries. So three of us are really hands-on. We still have one sixth-generation member involved, and two of us from the seventh generation.
The Roland-Billecart family: Antoine, François, Jean and Mathieu Photo Thomas Deron
What are the biggest challenges in continuing the legacy?
We see time differently. Most businesses feel short-term pressure. Of course, we have bank accounts and people to pay, but my focus is staying grounded in our vineyard while serving a global elite of food and wine lovers. That's a big stretch, from our little village to clients in New York, Singapore, Sydney. It's about making that bridge, in a global market dominated by large conglomerates. We're a small, agile producer focused on one thing: exceptional quality wines. That's our greatest asset. Our long-term vision is another. Big groups may dress up their short-term vision, but Champagne doesn't work that way. You have to respect time. For example, when we released our top cuvée, the 2012, the market was releasing 2015 or 2016. Our non-vintages are aged two or three times longer than elsewhere. That's part of making sure you're keeping your moral compass, your family values, and staying focused because it's wild out there.
Why is independence so important to Billecart-Salmon?
It's our DNA. It's not just important – it's paramount. We wouldn't be a family business, owned and run as we are today, if we were bought by one of those groups. We don't want that. Think of us like a high-end delicatessen, and next door Walmart is opening. We have to stay differentiated. Thankfully, through the quality of what we do and our values, we've built trusted relationships with clients around the world who know and want the Billecart difference. That's why we're still in business 207 years later.
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Billecart-Salmon's chalk cellars in the village of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, near Épernay in Champagne Photo Leif Carlsson As the seventh-generation head of one of Champagne's oldest and most revered family-run houses for true connoisseurs, Mathieu Roland-Billecart is not only upholding a two-century-old legacy – he's redefining what it means to lead an independent, artisanal brand in a market dominated by corporate behemoths. After spending 14 years in London working in international consulting, he returned home to Mareuil-sur-Aÿ in 2017, taking over from his second cousin François and becoming CEO of Billecart-Salmon in 2019. Today, he leads a tightly knit team that remains committed to quality, time-honored techniques, and the patient art of crafting some of the most elegant champagnes in the world. In this candid conversation, Roland-Billecart reflects on his childhood in Champagne, the values that have shaped the house for over 200 years, and why staying independent isn't just a business strategy – it's the very essence of Billecart-Salmon. What was it like growing up as part of the Billecart-Salmon family in Champagne? It's hard to compare because I've only ever known this. Champagne is a natural ecosystem with vineyards everywhere, but also the pressing room, vinification rooms and everything. It's basically an entire community dedicated to growing vines and making exceptional wine. What's specific for me is I carry the name of the house, so even when people don't know me, they think they know me. It's 95 % a blessing, and 5 % feels like a curse, but overall it's very positive. It's very much a family business. My father worked for the company, so it's like hearing your dad talk about his work. At 10 years old, you don't think, 'This is Billecart-Salmon with all its greatness.' You just think that it's your dad's job. And in our community, a lot of people work for Champagne producers of different prestige and positioning, so it's just part of who you are. Champagne is in our blood – not in the wine, but in the social sense. That's very much part of the Billecart DNA. A draft horse working Billecart-Salmon's vineyards Photo courtesy of Billecart-Salmon Was it inevitable that you would lead the house one day? No. There's a family committee – they're basically my boss now – and I returned to that board in 2013. That's just a few meetings a year to keep the family informed about the business. Then in 2017, my cousin, who led the house for 25 years, turned 70 and said, 'We need to pass the baton to the seventh generation.' The family gathered and asked if I'd be willing to do the job. It wasn't something I was told from birth: 'It will be you.' It's when the stars align. We always try to find the right person at the right time to take over. It's not a normal job. There are many things that are very unusual in a 200-year-old family organization. You have to commit long-term, which I did in 2017. Are other family members involved in the business today? There are three of us involved day-to-day. I have two cousins: one covers Italy, the other various European countries. So three of us are really hands-on. We still have one sixth-generation member involved, and two of us from the seventh generation. The Roland-Billecart family: Antoine, François, Jean and Mathieu Photo Thomas Deron What are the biggest challenges in continuing the legacy? We see time differently. Most businesses feel short-term pressure. Of course, we have bank accounts and people to pay, but my focus is staying grounded in our vineyard while serving a global elite of food and wine lovers. That's a big stretch, from our little village to clients in New York, Singapore, Sydney. It's about making that bridge, in a global market dominated by large conglomerates. We're a small, agile producer focused on one thing: exceptional quality wines. That's our greatest asset. Our long-term vision is another. Big groups may dress up their short-term vision, but Champagne doesn't work that way. You have to respect time. For example, when we released our top cuvée, the 2012, the market was releasing 2015 or 2016. Our non-vintages are aged two or three times longer than elsewhere. That's part of making sure you're keeping your moral compass, your family values, and staying focused because it's wild out there. Why is independence so important to Billecart-Salmon? It's our DNA. It's not just important – it's paramount. We wouldn't be a family business, owned and run as we are today, if we were bought by one of those groups. We don't want that. Think of us like a high-end delicatessen, and next door Walmart is opening. We have to stay differentiated. Thankfully, through the quality of what we do and our values, we've built trusted relationships with clients around the world who know and want the Billecart difference. That's why we're still in business 207 years later.
