I'm a dermatologist — 3 'universal' skincare staples I always recommend for anti-aging
Anti-aging skincare won't turn back the clock, but using the right products can help slow down the passage of time. Skincare aficionados often tout the benefits of wrinkle creams, plumping serums and youth-preserving eye creams, but according to Dr. Renita Ahluwalia, the lead Dermatologist at the Canadian Dermatology & Plastic Surgery Centre, a pared-back skincare regimen is oftentimes the way to go.
So many skincare products, anti-aging and otherwise, are "not backed by science," Ahluwalia tells Yahoo Canada. There is "no evidence" that they work. If you're going to spend the money on skincare, "invest in things that are backed by science and are good quality."
Instead of "doing 100 different things" and over-complicating your routine, Ahluwalia recommends three products that are "universal to everyone:" Sunscreen, vitamin C serum and retinol.
Sunscreen
"I'm always surprised when [dermatology patients] want to try different treatments, but they're not wearing sunscreen every day." Forgoing daily sunscreen is a "very poor return" on your beauty investments, Ahluwalia says. The majority of photoaging comes from sun damage and exposure, so sunscreen is a "non-negotiable."
The average woman spends nearly $1,000 on beauty each year. But if you're not applying daily sunscreen, "you're not going to get the results" you want.
Skipping sunscreen and lying in tanning beds are some of the biggest skincare mistakes people make, Ahluwalia warns. If you want healthy skin, never leave your home without applying "at least an SPF 30."
"If you have issues with pigmentation in your skin, which a lot of us do, especially as we get older, I usually like a mineral-tinted sunscreen because the tint contains iron oxide, which is a visible light filter," she says.
Vitamin C serum
Another staple in your skincare routine should be a "really good" vitamin C serum. A well-formulated vitamin C serum "can really improve your skin's ability to neutralize free radicals, so it boosts your sunscreen and protects your skin, kind of like an environmental shield," Ahluwalia says.
If you're in the market for a vitamin C serum, Ahluwalia suggests looking for those that have undergone the most studies and meet a threshold called the "Duke Parameters."
The Duke Parameters dictate that a vitamin C serum should contain pure L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C), have an acidic pH between 2.0 and 3.5, and be at a concentration of 10 to 20 per cent. Why? These parameters mean the serum will be the "most effective" and penetrate the skin the best.
Ahluwalia recommends: Vichy LiftActiv 15% Vitamin C Serum
Ahluwalia recommends: La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C12 Serum
Retinol
"I always recommend a retinol or something in the retinoid family, whether it's prescription grade or cosmeceutical," Ahluwalia tells Yahoo Canada.
"Something that suits a patient's skin type to maximize results because retinols are one of the most studied ingredients in dermatology; they do a lot of different things. They help increase cell turnover. They help with collagen stimulation. They help with fine lines and wrinkles. They can help with pigmentation."
Many medical-grade retinol products are covered by prescription drug plans, which, if you can tolerate them, is a great, more affordable option than a lot of in-store alternatives. However, if you want to avoid prescriptions, Ahluwalia recommends steering clear of derivatives and opting for "pure" retinol formulations instead.
"Neutrogena has some nice options," she says. "They have capsules and they have an overnight cream."
Ahluwalia recommends: Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Retinol Serum Capsules
Ahluwalia recommends: Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair 0.3% Retinol Pro+ Night Cream
Avoid these common skincare mistakes
One of the most common blunders Ahluwalia sees in her practice is overcomplicated skincare routines.
"You want to use products that are tailored toward your skin type," she says. "Going with trends is not the right thing to do. Invest in good quality products that work and invest in procedures that work because that's going to give you long-term benefits for the skin."
In addition to skipping sunscreen and using tanning beds, Ahluwalia recommends avoiding manicures that are cured with UV light. "They're very damaging to the skin," she says.
Instead of skipping your manicure entirely, she recommends manicures that are "cured with LED light or just a regular manicure or dip nails."
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