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Escape the hordes at Greece's last great off-the-radar glories

Escape the hordes at Greece's last great off-the-radar glories

Telegraph9 hours ago
Tiers of whitewashed houses tumbling down to impossibly blue coves, charming tavernas serving the classics in sleepy villages, and greetings of 'opa' from exuberant locals… Our rose-tinted idea of the Greek island idyll is now all too often a nostalgic cliché which no longer truly exists.
These days the most popular resorts on the Greek island big hitters – the likes of Crete, Corfu and Mykonos – seem more focussed on Instagram appeal, where Gen-Zedders and wannabe influencers think nothing of shelling out €150-plus for a beach lounger for a day. In the main streets you're never far away from a big chain, from Zara to Starbucks, and even the so-called 'hidden gems' are now on most tourists' checklists.
But for those still seeking that archetypal authentic Greek island holiday – and perhaps looking to experience must-sees a little differently – help is at hand. Here's our selection of the loveliest off-the-radar spots which the tourist hordes haven't yet discovered, and where the hazy, dreamy Greece of yesteryear lives on.
Skopelos
Before hosting the Mamma Mia nuptials, this small island in the Cyclades was barely on the tourist trail. Now, however, you'll find more tours in its tiny hilltop Agios Ioannis church than olives in a Greek restaurant. Yes, it's pretty as a picture, but so are the other 360 or so chapels and churches dotted around the island.
Go beyond this popular spot, however, and you'll soon find Skopelos – 80 per cent of which is covered by pine forest – retains much of its traditional charm. This is helped by the fact that the island has no airport (just frequent ferries from neighbouring Skiathos), meaning it gets a fraction of the tourists it otherwise might.
The stunning Panormos beach, with its deep crystal clear waters, is 12km from Skopelos town and popular for divers keen to explore the wreck of the Greek cargo steamer Christoforos, which sank in 1983. It's a large beach with parasols and beds (some free, some around €5 a day), but it's also possible to hire a motorboat to seek out one of many deserted coves along the coastline that are inaccessible by road.
For some authentic Skopelitan shopping, the Rodios pottery workshop and store in Skopelos Town is the place to to buy the island's patented black pottery. Since 1900, four generations of the Rodios family have continued their tradition of creating unique black ceramics, and you can even watch Nikos Rodios at work at their original foot-operated wheel. Just don't ask him to reveal how the pottery achieves its celebrated colour – it's a closely guarded secret.
Portaria and Makrinitsa
The third largest port in Greece (after Athens and Thessaloniki) and an important industrial hub, Volos is about as far from textbook Hellenic paradise as you can get. But there's more to it than meets the eye. For those seeking something rather special, it's also the gateway to the lush hills of Mount Pelion, where the ancient Centaurs (half-man, half-horse) are said to have brought up the young hero Jason, who went on to lead his Argonauts in the quest to find the Golden Fleece.
Pelion was also believed to be the summer residence of the Olympian Gods, who enjoyed its abundance of figs, olives and pomegranates under the pine and cypress trees.
Half an hour's drive up the winding hillside, the twin villages of Portaria and Makrinitsa appear like an illustrated pop-up book. Plane trees with maple-shaped leaves grow close to the abundant natural springs dotted all around Makrinitsa, offering soothing shade for those keen to take a dip.
The town square, meanwhile, is the heart of the village, filled with tiny shops selling bunches of mountain herbs to cure all ills. Even the local cats are on a go-slow; you simply can't help but relax here.
Skyros
The fishing village of Linaria is the port stop for Skyros, from where a €15 taxi will take you to the main town (or Chora – the name for most Greek island capitals). Here, the medina-like streets and white-cubed buildings seem to cling to the hillside, which is topped by the Byzantine Castle and Monastery of Skyros.
Not being much of a shopper myself, it was refreshing to see something different being offered in the quirky stores along the marbled walkways: miniature boats made of driftwood and sailors twine; traditional Trochadia sandals made of leather with rubber soles from car tyres (certainly more unusual than the ubiquitous Birkenstock); and Skyrian macarons topped with a clove and stuffed with walnuts and thyme-scented honey.
The island's network of old footpaths appeals to both hikers and those keen to seek out isolated beaches, the walk made all the lovelier by the wild Skyros' ponies, one of the rarest equines in the world, who roam the mountains.
Patmos
Known variously as the Jerusalem of the Aegean, the Holy Island or the Island of the Apocalypse, Patmos is famous for its religious legacy.
A day trip here will likely include a visit to the Monastery of St John and the Cave of the Apocalypse, where you will see such treasures as the skull of doubting apostle St Thomas.
The museum houses the late 5th century Gospel According to Mark, one of the sources for the text of the New Testament, and in the Cave of Revelations you can touch the crevices in the wall where St John steadied himself while receiving the heavenly revelations. Perhaps not a huge draw for everyone, but of special importance for many.
Less likely to be on everyone's radar is Patmian House, a living museum which not only reflects a typical wealthy family home, but also depicts the way in which wealth is passed down through the daughters, rather than the sons, of each family. Perhaps the Greeks were on to something from the start…
How to do it
Most major cruise lines offer itineraries covering various Greek isles – but bear in mind that companies with smaller vessels can reach a wider range of islands, and – better still – have the flexibility to adapt itineraries depending on the sailing conditions, opening up more opportunities to get off the typical tourist trail.
A good option is SeaDream, a line whose catchphrase is 'It's yachting, not cruising': you're technically on a cruise, but with a yachting mindset, allowing for a flexible route which often leads to bonus destinations not on the original itinerary (such as Kusadasi in Turkey to see the ancient city of Ephesus by night).
Choosing to sail with a company like SeaDream also often means additional comforts (nightly turndown gifts such as monogrammed pyjamas and personalised water bottles, for example), and experiential highlights such as sleeping under the stars on the top deck or zooming down a huge inflatable slide straight into the Aegean.
What to book
SeaDream Yacht Club (020 7399 7670) has an 11-day Greek Odyssey round-trip from Athens. Prices from £12,465 per person, including return flights from London Heathrow, overseas transfers and all meals and drinks, use of waterspouts equipment, gratuities and port fees. Departs September 19 2026.
If you'd like to tack on a few days in Athens pre-cruise, the five-star Xenodocheio Milos hotel has rooms from £259 (including breakfast), as well as a fabulous spa, superb fish restaurant, and great location close to Athens's most famous sites and buzzy areas such as Psyri, Kolonaki and Pangrati.
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The town square, meanwhile, is the heart of the village, filled with tiny shops selling bunches of mountain herbs to cure all ills. Even the local cats are on a go-slow; you simply can't help but relax here. Skyros The fishing village of Linaria is the port stop for Skyros, from where a €15 taxi will take you to the main town (or Chora – the name for most Greek island capitals). Here, the medina-like streets and white-cubed buildings seem to cling to the hillside, which is topped by the Byzantine Castle and Monastery of Skyros. Not being much of a shopper myself, it was refreshing to see something different being offered in the quirky stores along the marbled walkways: miniature boats made of driftwood and sailors twine; traditional Trochadia sandals made of leather with rubber soles from car tyres (certainly more unusual than the ubiquitous Birkenstock); and Skyrian macarons topped with a clove and stuffed with walnuts and thyme-scented honey. The island's network of old footpaths appeals to both hikers and those keen to seek out isolated beaches, the walk made all the lovelier by the wild Skyros' ponies, one of the rarest equines in the world, who roam the mountains. Patmos Known variously as the Jerusalem of the Aegean, the Holy Island or the Island of the Apocalypse, Patmos is famous for its religious legacy. A day trip here will likely include a visit to the Monastery of St John and the Cave of the Apocalypse, where you will see such treasures as the skull of doubting apostle St Thomas. The museum houses the late 5th century Gospel According to Mark, one of the sources for the text of the New Testament, and in the Cave of Revelations you can touch the crevices in the wall where St John steadied himself while receiving the heavenly revelations. Perhaps not a huge draw for everyone, but of special importance for many. Less likely to be on everyone's radar is Patmian House, a living museum which not only reflects a typical wealthy family home, but also depicts the way in which wealth is passed down through the daughters, rather than the sons, of each family. Perhaps the Greeks were on to something from the start… How to do it Most major cruise lines offer itineraries covering various Greek isles – but bear in mind that companies with smaller vessels can reach a wider range of islands, and – better still – have the flexibility to adapt itineraries depending on the sailing conditions, opening up more opportunities to get off the typical tourist trail. A good option is SeaDream, a line whose catchphrase is 'It's yachting, not cruising': you're technically on a cruise, but with a yachting mindset, allowing for a flexible route which often leads to bonus destinations not on the original itinerary (such as Kusadasi in Turkey to see the ancient city of Ephesus by night). Choosing to sail with a company like SeaDream also often means additional comforts (nightly turndown gifts such as monogrammed pyjamas and personalised water bottles, for example), and experiential highlights such as sleeping under the stars on the top deck or zooming down a huge inflatable slide straight into the Aegean. What to book SeaDream Yacht Club (020 7399 7670) has an 11-day Greek Odyssey round-trip from Athens. Prices from £12,465 per person, including return flights from London Heathrow, overseas transfers and all meals and drinks, use of waterspouts equipment, gratuities and port fees. Departs September 19 2026. If you'd like to tack on a few days in Athens pre-cruise, the five-star Xenodocheio Milos hotel has rooms from £259 (including breakfast), as well as a fabulous spa, superb fish restaurant, and great location close to Athens's most famous sites and buzzy areas such as Psyri, Kolonaki and Pangrati.

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