Explore wide world of wine beyond familiar grapes

Winnipeg Free Press

14-06-2025

Opinion
While there's something to be said for the tried-and-true Cabernet Sauvignons, Chardonnays, Merlots and Sauvignon Blancs of the world, thinking (and drinking) outside your comfort zone can offer surprising and delightful rewards. An added bonus: because these grapes aren't as popular as the aforementioned grapes, they often bring good bang for the buck.
Here are six recently sampled wines made from grapes that may not have landed on your radar as of yet, but are certainly worth a look/taste…
Caminhos Cruzados 2022 Titular Colheita Branco
A blend of 35 per cent Encruzado, 30 per cent Malvasia Fina and 35 per cent Bical grapes, this Portuguese white is medium gold in colour, with a lovely fruit salad of pear, cherry and peach on the nose, with secondary red apple and lemon notes.
It's light-bodied and dry, with a subtle saline/chalky note that comes with the fleshy pear and peach flavours, with underlying red apple and melon rind notes that show well before the modest finish (it's 13 per cent alcohol). Available at the Pourium. 3.5/5
Villa Sparina 2024 Gavi (Gavi, Italy — $24.93, Liquor Marts and beyond)
Made from Cortese grapes grown in the Piedmont region of northern Italy, this white is medium-gold in colour, with bright lemon-lime, floral, peach and honeycomb notes on the nose.
It's a bone dry, light-plus-bodied white with great texture, offering viscous ripe citrus and peach flavours and secondary red apple skin and chalky notes, all balanced by fresh, lively acidity before the medium finish (it's 12.5 per cent alcohol). A delight to drink now. 4/5
Low Life Barrel House 2023 Fizzy Red (Winnipeg/Niagara — $25.99, winery, Liquor Marts and beyond)
A sparkling red made from Marechal Foch and Gewürztaminer grapes grown in Ontario and vinified in Manitoba, the Fizzy Red is bright inky purple in colour and brings crunchy cranberry, plum, blackberry, bread dough and spice notes on the nose.
It's dry and medium-bodied, with those crunchy red and dark berry flavours coming with floral and plum flavours, light tannins and a modest finish (it's 11 per cent alcohol). Warning: it's aggressive bubbly, even sporting a label that says 'I AM REALLY FIZZY.' Fun, fresh and lively — but open the bottle over your sink and be careful. 3.5/5
Georges Duboeuf 2023 Gamay (Vin de Pays de l'Ardeche, France — $14.24, Liquor Marts and beyond)
Dark cherry in colour, this red is made from Gamay grapes grown along the western bank of the Rhône river, and brings violet, cranberry, plum, strawberry and subtle bubble gum notes aromatically.
It's dry, light-plus-bodied and juicy, with juicy strawberry, cherry candy, raspberry and plum notes along with light tannins and acidity and, at 13 per cent alcohol, a modest finish. There's no oak influence here to speak of; chill this down for 15-20 minutes and enjoy this fun red on the patio. A good value, particularly as it's on sale until the end of June (regular $15.99). 3.5/5
Torre Mora 2021 Cauru (Etna Rosso, Italy — $34.95, Kenaston Wine Market)
Made from the Nerello Mascalese grape — Sicily's equivalent to Pinot Noir — this southern Italian red does well in the volcanic soils in the foothills of Mount Etna. It's pale cherry-brick in appearance, offering deep plum, strawberry, earth, cherry and herbal notes on the nose.
It's dry and light-plus bodied, with grippy tannins offering the plum and red berry notes some structure, hints of red licorice and white pepper underlying the fruit, modest acidity and a medium-length finish. Fans of red Burgundy take note; drink this complex red now or hold for 18-24 months. Available at Kenaston Wine Market. 4.5/5
Tiger Horse 2023 Old Vine Cinsault (Western Cape, South Africa — $18.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)
Sourced from vines averaging 40 years old, grown and planted as bush vines (rather than neatly trained rows in the vineyard), this red is pale cherry in colour, offering black cherry, plum, violet, blackberry and subtle smoky aromas.
It's light-plus-bodied and dry, bringing juicy and almost-sour cherry, plum and blackberry flavours with hints of cracked pepper and black tea; tannins are mild and it delivers a medium-length finish (it's 13 per cent alcohol). Another red that would benefit from 15 minutes in the fridge before serving. 4/5
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Ben SigurdsonLiterary editor, drinks writer
Ben Sigurdson is the Free Press's literary editor and drinks writer. He graduated with a master of arts degree in English from the University of Manitoba in 2005, the same year he began writing Uncorked, the weekly Free Press drinks column. He joined the Free Press full time in 2013 as a copy editor before being appointed literary editor in 2014. Read more about Ben.
In addition to providing opinions and analysis on wine and drinks, Ben oversees a team of freelance book reviewers and produces content for the arts and life section, all of which is reviewed by the Free Press's editing team before being posted online or published in print. It's part of the Free Press's tradition, since 1872, of producing reliable independent journalism. Read more about Free Press's history and mandate, and learn how our newsroom operates.
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