Prada's new US$1,200 sandal is an Indian classic – but did it give credit where it's due?

South China Morning Post

06-07-2025

It began with a silhouette: supple leather, intricate stitching, the unmistakable toe ring of a Kolhapuri chappal. In Milan, it was hailed as luxury. In
India , it was recognised as something far more profound – and its omission of origin as an affront.
When
Prada 's latest design walked the catwalk at Milan Fashion Week last month, it carried with it a legacy. And soon after, a controversy that reignited questions of cultural respect.
The Italian fashion house's latest collection, which included footwear bearing a striking resemblance to the centuries-old chappals, set off a firestorm of debate in India.
The initial absence of any mention of the shoe's origins, born of a long tradition rooted in the bustling markets and dusty workshops of Maharashtra, prompted accusations of cultural appropriation and exploitation.
It took a wave of public outcry for Prada to acknowledge its debt. In a letter to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, the brand conceded that its design was, in fact, 'inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage.'
Models wear creations from Prada's spring-summer 2026 menswear collection at Milan Fashion Week, including Kolhapuri chappal-inspired footwear. Photo: Reuters
Kolhapuri chappals, crafted from buffalo hide tanned with natural dyes and assembled without a single nail, are more than mere footwear. They bear a 'geographical indication' tag, a mark of authenticity and regional pride. For generations, they have been made by hand, often for a fraction of the price now commanding attention on Europe's fashion runways.