This Wine Country cafe is known for its hot, tender biscuit sandwiches. Here's the best one to order
Each week, critic MacKenzie Chung Fegan shares some of her favorite recent bites, the dishes and snacks and baked goods that didn't find their way into a full review. Want the list a few days earlier? Sign up for her free newsletter, Bite Curious.
I was waiting for my breakfast order of biscuit sandwiches when Contimo 's co-owner Ryan Harris plopped down on the bench next to me. 'I'm sorry,' he said, poker-faced, 'but I'm going to have to ask you to leave.' Not without my biscuits, Ryan! In his review of the Napa sandwich shop, my colleague Cesar Hernandez correctly raved about their tender crumb, a product of the grated frozen butter in Harris' grandmother's recipe. I would argue equal word count could have been devoted to Contimo's pimento cheese, which melts unctuously into the warm-from-the-oven biscuit ($7.75).
Contimo Provisions. 950 Randolph St., Napa. contimonapa.com
I feel like rhubarb is less popular in California than it is in New York, where the first pink stalks at farmers markets harbinger the arrival of spring. It's a promise as much as it is an ingredient. In milder climes, perhaps rhubarb is less emotionally significant, but I still order it whenever I see it on a menu — which is why the strawberry and rhubarb galette ($13) edged out the salted fig caramel trifle (four words of real beauty) at Sonoma's The Girl and the Fig. The sweet-tart pastry, topped with toasted almonds, a burnished caramel and a mondo scoop of vanilla ice cream, teleported me from a 90-degree Wine Country summer day to April back East.
The Girl and the Fig. 110 W Spain St., Sonoma. thegirlandthefig.com
'We ordered ours with cheese,' I said to our server when she dropped our order of seemingly cheese-less tteokbokki ($20) at um.ma. Not to fear, she explained, the cheese was mixed into the crimson sauce. This was immediately evident as I served my dining companion a spoonful and was treated to a cheese pull of epic proportions. The cheese content is so high, in fact, that I would caution you to eat at a relatively quick pace; the sauce congeals into a semi-solid state as it cools.
um.ma. 1220 9th Ave., San Francisco. ummasf.com
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San Francisco Chronicle
2 days ago
- San Francisco Chronicle
This Wine Country cafe is known for its hot, tender biscuit sandwiches. Here's the best one to order
Each week, critic MacKenzie Chung Fegan shares some of her favorite recent bites, the dishes and snacks and baked goods that didn't find their way into a full review. Want the list a few days earlier? Sign up for her free newsletter, Bite Curious. I was waiting for my breakfast order of biscuit sandwiches when Contimo 's co-owner Ryan Harris plopped down on the bench next to me. 'I'm sorry,' he said, poker-faced, 'but I'm going to have to ask you to leave.' Not without my biscuits, Ryan! In his review of the Napa sandwich shop, my colleague Cesar Hernandez correctly raved about their tender crumb, a product of the grated frozen butter in Harris' grandmother's recipe. I would argue equal word count could have been devoted to Contimo's pimento cheese, which melts unctuously into the warm-from-the-oven biscuit ($7.75). Contimo Provisions. 950 Randolph St., Napa. I feel like rhubarb is less popular in California than it is in New York, where the first pink stalks at farmers markets harbinger the arrival of spring. It's a promise as much as it is an ingredient. In milder climes, perhaps rhubarb is less emotionally significant, but I still order it whenever I see it on a menu — which is why the strawberry and rhubarb galette ($13) edged out the salted fig caramel trifle (four words of real beauty) at Sonoma's The Girl and the Fig. The sweet-tart pastry, topped with toasted almonds, a burnished caramel and a mondo scoop of vanilla ice cream, teleported me from a 90-degree Wine Country summer day to April back East. The Girl and the Fig. 110 W Spain St., Sonoma. 'We ordered ours with cheese,' I said to our server when she dropped our order of seemingly cheese-less tteokbokki ($20) at Not to fear, she explained, the cheese was mixed into the crimson sauce. This was immediately evident as I served my dining companion a spoonful and was treated to a cheese pull of epic proportions. The cheese content is so high, in fact, that I would caution you to eat at a relatively quick pace; the sauce congeals into a semi-solid state as it cools. 1220 9th Ave., San Francisco.
San Francisco Chronicle
4 days ago
- San Francisco Chronicle
Michelin stars: Which restaurants won — and lost — in the Bay Area
The California Michelin stars were revealed on Wednesday evening, with the Bay Area's newest winners reflecting a regional shift for the food industry's most coveted award. The winery-owned Enclos won two stars, the first restaurant in Sonoma to win a Michelin star. Sun Moon Studio, a tiny fine-dining restaurant in Oakland, earned one star. It's Oakland's second-ever Michelin starred restaurant, joining Commis (which maintained its two stars this year). There was no new winner in San Francisco, though Kiln in Hayes Valley, which earned its first star last year, was elevated to two stars. The prestigious Michelin stars were announced at a ceremony in Sacramento. Three Northern California restaurants dropped off the 2025 guide. Mountain View's longtime Chez TJ, which has held a star since Michelin started covering the Bay Area nearly two decades ago, lost the distinction. Aphotic and Osito, which each held one star, closed in 2024 and 2025, respectively. San Francisco omakase restaurant the Shota, which previously held one star, has been temporarily closed since March but remains in this year's guide. Stone Edge Farm Estate Vineyards & Winery, a premium producer of classically styled Bordeaux wines, opened Enclos in late 2024 with San Francisco fine-dining chef Brian Limoges at the helm. Chronicle restaurant critic MacKenzie Chung Fegan lauded much of the menu on a visit, including 'exquisite' venison tartar tartlets and aged tuna belly with a 'miraculous' brown butter passion fruit zabaglione. Michelin's anonymous inspectors described Enclos as a 'rarified realm' where the tasting menu 'marries global flavors, refined technique, and exceptional ingredients, including produce sourced from their two farms, all shot through with subtle nods to Chef Brian Limoges's New England roots.' Fegan also named Sun Moon Studio, which quietly started serving a tasting menu at just four tables in an unassuming West Oakland space last summer, the Bay Area's best new restaurant of 2024 and No. 4 on the Chronicle's Top 100 restaurants list. This is chefs and owners Alan Hsu and Sarah Cooper's first restaurant. Their food draws on their pedigree from top Michelin-starred restaurants, including Benu in San Francisco and Per Se in New York City, as well as their heritage and personal experience, like a mini Taiwanese sausage cradled in a buttery, steamed brioche bun. 'A slightly clandestine air still prevails outside this inconspicuous little spot, but the secret is out: the handful of seats inside are hotly in demand,' the Michelin inspectors wrote. 'The style is pared down and technically precise, letting products shine while adding a spark of personality.' Bay Area restaurants also nearly swept the guide's special awards. The bar team at modern Indian newcomer Eylan in Menlo Park won the exceptional cocktails award. Eylan was also the sole Bay Area restaurant added to the guide's 2025 Bib Gourmand list, for businesses which the guide describes as offering 'a meal of good quality at a good value.' Nick Peyton, maitre d' and owner of Cyrus in Geyserville, won Michelin's outstanding service award. Chris Barnum-Dann of Localis in Sacramento took home the sommelier award — an unusual feat for the chef and owner of a restaurant. Northern California remains home to the most three-star restaurants in the state, though Michelin added two Los Angeles restaurants to the category this year. Atelier Crenn, San Francisco Benu, San Francisco The French Laundry, Yountville Quince, San Francisco SingleThread, Healdsburg Two stars Acquerello, San Francisco Aubergine, Carmel Birdsong, San Francisco Californios, San Francisco Commis, Oakland Enclos, Sonoma (new) Harbor House, Elk (Mendocino County) Kiln, San Francisco Lazy Bear, San Francisco Saison, San Francisco Sons & Daughters, San Francisco One star 7 Adams, San Francisco Angler, San Francisco Auberge du Soleil, Rutherford Auro, Calistoga Chez Noir, Carmel Cyrus, Geyserville Hilda and Jesse, San Francisco Kenzo, Napa Kin Khao, San Francisco The Kitchen, Sacramento Le Comptoir at Bar Crenn, San Francisco Localis, Sacramento Madcap, San Anselmo Mister Jiu's, San Francisco Nari, San Francisco Niku Steakhouse, San Francisco Nisei, San Francisco O' by Claude Le Tohic, San Francisco Plumed Horse, Saratoga Press, Saint Helena The Progress, San Francisco Protégé, Palo Alto San Ho Won, San Francisco Selby's, Redwood City The Shota, San Francisco Sorrel, San Francisco Ssal, San Francisco State Bird Provisions, San Francisco Sun Moon Studio, Oakland (new) The Village Pub, Woodside Wakuriya, San Mateo
San Francisco Chronicle
21-06-2025
- San Francisco Chronicle
It opened. It closed. It opened. Here's what to finally try at this hotly anticipated Wine Country café
Each week, critic MacKenzie Chung Fegan shares some of her favorite recent bites, the dishes and snacks and baked goods that didn't find their way into a full review. Want the list a few days earlier? Sign up for her free newsletter, Bite Curious. After an unexpected permitting hiccup that forced a temporary closure, Under-study in St. Helena is back open. The museum café-bakery-marketplace still doesn't have its seating sorted out, but until then visitors can eat their expertly laminated danishes and sweet and sour pig ears on the adjacent patio at sister restaurant Press. You should definitely get both, and be sure to tack on the heirloom tomato ($14) as well. On the menu, it's described as coming with 'preserved plum, toasted sourdough,' but this is no toast. Expect instead an intensely flavorful sculptural salad with precariously stacked tomato and plum segments, tweezered herbs and lacy sourdough crisps. Under-study. 595 St. Helena Hwy., St. Helena. Dafna Kory, the pectin whisperer behind East Bay company INNA Jam, will be shuttering her company in September after preserving the best of summer's figs, berries and stone fruit. INNA is best known for its jams and chutneys, but I recently took home a bottle of its Albion strawberry shrub ($16.95), a vibrant drinking vinegar that can be mixed with seltzer (and the spirit of your choice, if you're inclined). I'll be stocking up on a few more bottles while I still can. You can find INNA products at various local retailers including Bi-Rite Markets and Epicurean Trader locations and, of course, online. Respect the palate cleanser! Whether it's bites of pickled ginger at a sushi counter or sips of Pink Champ, a tart soda specifically developed to reset your taste buds between licks of ice cream, professional eaters need moments of brightness and pause. My favorite course at San Francisco's two-Michelin-star Birdsong was a palate cleanser (part of a $325 tasting menu), but also so much more. Its melange of fresh flavors (ginger, chamomile, lemon) and textures (shaved ice, marmalade, tapioca, sorbet), together with the zing of Meyer lemon zested tableside, slapped me in the face like Cher in 'Moonstruck,' prepping me for the final dessert courses ahead.
