Marni Bids Farewell to Francesco Risso
'I will always be grateful to Renzo [Rosso] for believing in me, for giving me the front seat on a journey that became more than I could have imagined,' Rosso shared with Vogue. 'Marni has been a studio, a stage, a dream. It carried color, instinct, care, and gave space for people to be themselves. It taught me how to build with feeling and how powerful true collaboration can be,' he continued.
Risso expanded upon Castiglioni's legacy with a craft-geared ethos, taking the founders' expressive color and texture to the next level and introducing the label to a new generation. Risso's chunky knitwear, bohemian florals, and reworked sensibilities connected with younger luxury audiences with more directional tastes. His neon furry mules, ultra-plush mohair cardigans, and hand-illustrated and painted garments proved a hit with Gen Z and Millennials, facilitating collaborations with Yeezy vetDingyun Zhang,Carhartt WIP, and even R&B legendErykah Badu.
The appointment completes a round of changes at parent companyOTB Group, which ownsDiesel,Jil Sander,Maison Margiela, and more. FollowingGlenn Martens' exit fromY/Projectlast year, the designer who also heads Diesel went full OTB by joining Maison Margiela asJohn Galliano's replacement. In February,Lucie and Luke Meierdeparted from Jil Sander, andSimone Bellottiwas tapped for their replacement in March.
The reintroduction of a female perspective at the brand could evoke nostalgia from Marni die-hards who have missed Castiglioni's distinct vision. Castiglioni only introduced Marni's mens line in 2006, before which the brand had focused on its original womens line. Rumors suggest thatVirginie Viard, who leftChanellast year, orMaria Grazie Chiuri,who leftDiorweeks ag,o could take the helm. However, their specialty in traditional luxury and couture informed aesthetics makes the two less of a match for the young Italian house.
By setting its sights further than directors from other major luxury houses, Marni could continue developing its distinct identity with the vision of a newcomer. A young and independent name likeMartine Roseis an ideal candidate, with her offbeat references, colorful palette, and at times whimsical design details. For example, Marni's pillow-like pastel-huedHokarunners echo Rose's inflated and candy-colored footwear designs forClarks. The British designer's cult following could bring the excitement needed to boost the conglomerate's appeal amidst the luxury slowdown's headwinds.
Is it possible that OTB Group could opt out of the echo chamber that's kept the same creative directors in rotation?
As of the time of writing, Marni has yet to confirm a replacement for Risso. Stay tuned to Hypebeast for the latest fashion industry insights.
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