A.PRESSE: Subtlety as Disruption
People are exhausted by external validation. In a capitalist economy, 'likes' have become a new form of currency, encouraging individuals to operate like media entities. More and more, people are beginning to feel that this comes at a significant cost. Rather than being shaped by others, they feel the need to shape themselves, which naturally leads to a preference for simplicity.
Your designs incorporate modern elements into classic American menswear. How do you strike that balance in your design process? Are there any items or periods that have particularly influenced you?
I'm not fond of the way the word 'fashion' is commonly used today, but I do believe that people always have a certain mood or feeling. This feeling isn't centered around individuals. It emerges from the flow of the world itself, which is different from fleeting trends.
Since clothing is worn by people living in the present, I do consciously consider the 'now.' However, I also believe that what we create shouldn't be confined to the present moment—it should be something that transcends time. I've learned from classic craftsmanship, culture, and historical context, so I make sure not to lose sight of those influences. That's why I avoid exaggerated expressions of a specific era.
I'm particularly influenced by the mid-century period and earlier. I believe that all true originals existed before the 1960s, with roots tracing back even further. Each decade, including the 1950s, has its own unique appeal, but ultimately, everything happening today is a repetition of the past. History has never been interrupted, so the deeper you trace it, the more you realize that clothing, politics, religion, and economics are all interconnected, shaping the way we think about design.
You've mentioned your appreciation for French vintage brands like Hermès and Charvet. How do they influence your work?
Even if the country is different, the perspective remains the same. Of course, environments and cultures vary, and their historical roots differ as well, but I view them all from a neutral standpoint.
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